Grey

They only need turned if they exhibit DTV (Disk Thickness Variation). If they are too thin to be safely turned, they should be replaced. You must be a skilled brake user if you havn't had DTV. I had lots of customers that had recurring brake issues until I took them out and showed them how to save their rotors. I also showed them rotors where you could clearly see the brake pad material transferred to the rotor. Never saw them again. (Thunderbirds and Windstars especially.)

DTV (I like that term) can often be a result of a rotor overheating and the reaction with the brake pad. After a hard, high speed stop, the brake pad material can transfer to the rotor if you hold the pad firmly to the rotor (trapping as much as 1,400 degrees) as the rest of the rotor cools down. Two things are potentially happening: 1. the rotor warps because it does not cool uniformly 2. the pad material bonds to the rotor creating DTV Ford provides guidelines for rotor thickness to technicians. If they can be safely turned, that is what Ford will permit under the warranty provisions. How can all of this be avoided? When you stop, even from moderate speeds, come to a rest 8 to 10 feet behind the line or vehicle in front of you, and slowly roll out the heat as you move forward. If you have made a panic stop and don't have room to roll out the heat, back up if possible or put the vehicle in park and let off on the brake. You are trying to avoid holding the extreme heat on one part of the rotor while the rest of the rotor cools. A sticking caliper or glide can also cause rotor overheating, but the same situation applies, roll out the heat when you stop. You will experience premature pad wear, but possibly avoid the dreaded DTV.

If the filter is a Motorcraft, you should be able to find the P/N at Motorcraft.com. They have online catalogs and other great pieces of information free (like owner's manuals, etc.) Some of the technical pieces require a subscription. We really enjoy our MKX (black on black Ultimate with the chrome faced wheels). :happy feet: :happy feet:

We seldom use out seat cooling feature so will let them go for 4 or 5 years. Check their condition and then decide if they look dirty enough to replace.

akirby, you are right. I'm about to give up. Chances are there won't be a problem, but look at the guy with the blown engine at 65,000 miles and is upset that Ford won't foot the bill. The CAFE issue must permit people to believe the oil specification is pretty arbitrary. It is not. When using the wrong specified oil becomes an issue, customers want to excuse their responsibility by throwing it off on the oil change guy down the street, their uncle (who never had a problem with XYZ oil), etc. We try to educate with knowledge that goes beyond individual experience, but some just don't want to hear it. Oh well! Have a great day - we are off in the FFH to go to a retiree breakfast and trade old war (service drive) stories.

A few of you want to know what the Ford engineers require for their engines (based on experience with millions of engines) - others choose to make judgements based on experience with a few engines at best. CAFE certainly had an affect on the design specification for the 5W20 oil, but once the specification was set, the balance of the engine, cooling system, cam timing mechanisims, etc. systems were designed around the 5W20 oil spec. Most importantly is the requirement that the oil exhibit a cSt value between 8.5 and 9 at operating temperatures. Mobile 1 5W30 does not meet the Ford specification and has a cSt value of 11.3 at operating temperature. Customer: "I have a ticking noise in my engine". Sevice Manager: "What oil are you using?" Customer: "Mobile 1 5W30 Synthetic" Service Manager: "Sorry, but this issue will be customer pay since you are not using oil that meets the Ford specification" I've seen the conversation happen. But, do whatever you want, its only an issue if there is a problem.

Right - drill down through the passenger air bag to secure the grab bar to the instrument panel. Go to plan "B".

Common misunderstandings about oil corrected: Motor oil for todays engines are formulated to operate at 212 degrees. Ford engineers want an oil with a cSt value between 8.5 and 9 at operating temperatures. Tolerences, oil passages, oil pumps, cooling systems, etc. are set up for this cSt value. It is more correct to say that oil thickens as it cools. 10W thickens more than 5W or 0W at ambient temperatures. As much as 90% of engine wear occurs at cold start. Thinner is better. The colder your starts, them more you need 0W20 oil or a full synthetic 5W20. No 10W30 oil I can find meets the spec for our vehicles. It is like rocket surgery!

Our engines are designed for 5W20. Don't confuse oil pressure for lubrication. Flow = lubrication. If you are pulling a large trailer, racing for long periods (several hours) or (for some other reason) running your engine at 300+ degrees (instead of the 212 it is designed for) you might want a 5W30. Oil flow also affects engine cooling. All carefully coordinated. For 99+% of us, 5W20 or even 0W20 is all we will ever need.

I'm not a parts manager but I know enough about them to guess that about 75% of the parts a dealership sells through their parts and service departments come directly from Ford parts depots, other dealers, assembly plants or directly from Ford vendors (items like tires). 15% or so will come from their Motorcraft distributors (including Motorcraft oil and battery distributors.) The balance will come from local jobbers and misc. suppliers (non-F/L/M parts for used cars and service work, standard parts - nuts and bolts-, etc.) Is this really what you wanted to know?

I heard the Feds slightly changed the mileage testing criteria - some vehicles benefited and some lost. YMMV.

Just a few changes: Trailer Tow no longer available on SE New Colors: Tuxedo Black Metallic (UH) Ingot Silver Metallic (UX) Red Candy Metallic Tinted Clearcoat (U6) Deleted Colors: Black Brilliant Silver Red Fire Camel Cloth no longer available on SEL New: Limited Interior Appearance Package Unique Sienna leather-trimmed Seats w/ Contrast Stitching Unique Contrast Stitching on Steering Wheel and Shift Knob Unique Dark Brushed Aluminum Center Stack pane Premium Floor Mats with "Edge" logo Deleted: Blue Suede Interior Appearance Package

They look like Mercury Mountineer wheels. That sytle came in 16" and 17" and maybe larger.

Production on the 2010's did not start until 6/1. bbf2530 is correct (as Usual) ----unlikely.

I would go back to my sales person and ask them if you can get the parts at employee prices. Have them go to parts and price them out as though it was part of the car deal. Worse case, give them the money and have them buy the parts for you. Worst case, they tell you to go jump in the river and you order on-line.

Did the coupon not work because it was sent to another person (who gave it to you) and Ford requires them to be used by the recipient or immediate family? Or do the rules say no AXZD use? Had the dealership run a VinCent on the vehicle when they sold it to you, they should have known the rules. Ready, shoot, aim!

Be sure to price out a new 2009. The incentives are great right now. Because you are concerned about the condition of a used vehicle (as I would be), your peace of mind will be much better with new, if it is close to the same payment. Do your research at Ford.com, edmunds.com, nada, and kbb. Good luck.

Your leather seating surfaces have a clear, protective coating over the leather. • For routine cleaning, wipe the surface with a soft, damp cloth. For more thorough cleaning, wipe the surface with a mild soap and water solution. In Canada, use Motorcraft Vinyl Cleaner (CXC-93). Dry the area with a soft cloth. • If the leather cannot be completely cleaned using a mild soap and water solution, the leather may be cleaned using a commercially available cleaning product designed for automotive leather. • Do not use household cleaning products, alcohol solutions, solvents or cleaners intended for rubber, vinyl and plastics, or oil/petroleum-based leather conditioners. These products may cause premature wearing of the clear, protective coating. Note: In some instances, color or dye transfer can occur when wet clothing comes in contact with leather upholstery. If this occurs, the leather should be cleaned immediately to avoid permanent staining Clean the instrument panel, interior trim areas and cluster lens with a clean and damp white cotton cloth, then with a clean and dry white cotton cloth; you may also use Motorcraft Dash & Vinyl Cleaner (ZC-38-A) on the instrument panel and interior trim areas. • Avoid cleaners or polishes that increase the gloss of the upper portion of the instrument panel. The dull finish in this area helps protect the driver from undesirable windshield reflection. • Be certain to wash or wipe your hands clean if you have been in contact with certain products such as insect repellent and suntan lotion in order to avoid possible damage to the interior painted surfaces. • Do not use household or glass cleaners as these may damage the finish of the instrument panel, interior trim and cluster lens. WARNING: Do not use chemical solvents or strong detergents when cleaning the steering wheel or instrument panel to avoid contamination of the airbag system. If a staining liquid like coffee/juice has been spilled on the instrument panel or on interior trim surfaces, clean as follows: 1. Wipe up spilled liquid using a clean, white, cotton cloth. 2. Apply Motorcraft Deluxe Leather and Vinyl Cleaner (ZC-11-A) [in Canada use Motorcraft Multi-Purpose Cleaner (CXC-101)] to the wiped area and spread around evenly. 3. Apply more Motorcraft cleaner to a clean, white, cotton cloth and press the cloth onto the soiled area–allow this to set at room temperature for 30 minutes. 4. Remove the soaked cloth, and if it is not soiled badly, use this cloth to clean the area by using a rubbing motion for 60 seconds. 5. Following this, wipe area dry with a clean, white, cotton cloth.

Any time you recalibrate, the computer has to relearn you driving style. It is always looking for the lowest rpm that will keep the engine running. It may take a few driving cycles to establish the rpm range you need based on your typical driving routine. After a long higher speed drive, or disconnecting the battery cables, the computer may let the rpm's drop too low. If it stalls or "bucks" going to idle, it will remember not to drop it that low next time.

Generally the odor comes from moldy debris in the plenum. Junk that falls on the cowl area gets sucked into the plenum via the fresh air intake. If it gets wet and begins to decay, you will get a funky odor. Lysol can sometimes help. Spray it into the freah air intake at the trailing edge of the hood in front of the passenger (on fresh air mode.) Put the system on recirculate and spray it into the air intake just above the passenger floorboard. In general, keeping the fresh air intake open will help dry it out. Try not to park under trees that drop a lot of pollen, seeds, etc. Ask the service advisor if they can do anything for you on the issue. Not really warrantable, but they might try to help you out.

The dealership has got to love you if you paid almost $70 for an oil change. If you have a Ford maintenance plan and want full synthetic, I believe the upcharge is $29. :shades:

Motorcraft makes a full synthetic oil that is available to all dealerships. It was designed for extreme cold, but can be used anywhere. Figure another $20 per oil change.

I checked with a dealer buddy and he said the certificates are only transferable between immediate family members this time. May have been more open in the past. It was a select mailing to homes determined to be close to "in the market" for a new vehicle. Have your dealer run a VinCent on the vehicle you are considering buying. That will tell you all the possible incentives there are on that vehicle, on that day, in your zip code. Also check to see if your employer is a Ford "partner" for X-Plan purchasing. Some are and the employees don't know it.

I got the brochure without the coupon???? Usually the coupons are customer specific, so they can't be transferred.

Good call. Most people think that oil thins at high temperature. It is more correct to consider that oil thickens at lower temperatures. Years ago, manufacturers specified different weight oils for summer and for winter operation. Back then, engine operating temperature varied with ambient temperatures. Today, our engines are designed to operate @212 degrees F, in Florida and Alaska. They are designed to operate with an oil having a cSt value of about 9 at that temperature regardless of ambient temperature. Thus we always want an oil that has a cSt value of around 9 at 212 degrees. The purpose of a 0W or 5W multiviscosity oil is to reduce oil thickening at lower temperatures. Oil is always too thick at start-up. We would like to have a cSt of 9 at start-up, but oil thickens much more than that at lower temperatures. So, stick with 0W20 or 5W20 to help reduce engine wear at start-up. The cooler your ambient temperature, the better the argument for 0W20 or 5W20 full-synthetic. And, let your engine warm up before going full throttle, especially on cold mornings. Remember, high pressure doesn't = lubrication, Flow = lubrication.