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railroad

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  1. Sounds like the body is flexing. If so, there is not much you can do, short of adding subframe connectors. To reduce the noise, wipe all the rubber seals around the windows and doors with Armor All or equivalent. It will not stop the flexing, but might reduce the noise. good luck.
  2. There are LED replacements for all of the common filiment type bulbs. They do not require changing out the sockets. Most truck stops have them. Speedway automotive also carries them. After replacing them, your turn signals may not work. The LEDs do not draw enough current to activate the flasher switch. The automotive market also sells a plug in load cell to correct for this, so again no modifications required. There may be a problem with the sockets melting, but make sure you are not resting your foot on the brake while driving. The bright side of the bulb does generate a lot of heat.
  3. What area of the car are the stains located, ie front, rear, rt front, etc. The stains look like a/c condensation running off bare metal.
  4. Congrats on the mileage, but I do not think you are doing your fuel pump any favors by running it low on fuel. I prefer to keep my fuel injected, internal pump vehicles above 1/4 of a tank.
  5. Your pads look good. The rotors look like they were not turned the last pad change, no biggy, if you are not getting any grinding or shake in the front end. Looks like the Chicago salt is doing its thing on the bare metal. Probably normal for the area. A lot of brake jobs require new rotors now, when the pads are gone. I guess it is the price we pay for good pad material and stopping 4000 lbs. Yours looks like normal wear. Keep driving. Brakes usually last something in the neighborhood of 50 to 70K miles. If you are on the upper end you are doing well, just keep an ear out for the grinding sound.
  6. I think this is a motor/transmission mount issue. I have the same issue with my 03 Escape, even after replacing 3 mounts. I own a 2010 MKX and have not exp the problem yet. The reason the vib manifest itself at idle and not at speed is because the engine torque/movement unloads the mount or contact area that is transmitting the vib. With the problem occurring at such low mileages, I would document it so, Ford can address it, when they get enough flack about it.
  7. railroad

    Magnaflow exhaust

    It would have to really pick up on the hp and or mpg to entice me. Sounds like a six cylinder trying too.
  8. Get the ones from Lowes and get your salesman to give a you bottle of touch up paint. My salesman stiffed me for $13. I am starting to look for a new truck. Guess which salesman will not get the sale.
  9. Just keep running good gasoline, add a can or bottle of injector cleaner every month or so and leave the injectors alone. You might want to change the fuel filter sometimes after 100K.
  10. railroad

    spark plugs

    Real unusual that would be related to a plug change. See if you bumped loose a hose or electrical connection. Maybe even on the air filter duct.
  11. Anyone have information on installation of the caliper covers? The ad says no tape or glue. That makes me think there might be a snap spring friction fit. At the listed price it is not something I want falling off on the highway.
  12. Ford uses some preformed hoses that connect the filler flange to the tank. They had a bad problem with some Taurus's some years back. It seems the preformed bend was collapsing and not letting the gasoline flow freely. I would either get under the car or put it on a lift and see if the hose is kinked. A second problem may be the vent hose. I do not know if the Edge's have one, but some have a separate smaller line that runs from the tank to the filler neck for venting air as the gasoline comes in. An innovative mechanic may be able to blow some low pressure through this line to verify it is clear, with the cap off, no open flames, standing clear if some liquid is forced out, with the tank way less than full, very low pressure,,,, just some of the stuff you would think would be common sense. Also check for a TSB on this, might be the 1st thing to do. good luck,
  13. Ditto on the quick oil change shops. It sounds like you do mods on your vehicles that instill more confidence in the oiling system. Nothing wrong with improving the functioning of a system. I am sure the extra filtration and cooling help the longivity of the oil and it sounds like it fits your operating schedule. My trucks never had the luxury of long continous drives. They may be towing a 60 T Bird through 3 or 4 states, if that is a long haul, but mostly driven to work (60 miles) until I retired in 2008 and other than being a loaner to my son and brother, just do small hauling jobs. By the way, I did change to Brad Penn motor oil, after the name brands pulled ZDDP from their over the counter stuff. I used to annal about my motors and hot rods. I would change stuff on a new vehicle to satisfy my desire for improvement. Now I just do a decent maintenance schedule and run what the factory delivered. Hope you continue to get good results.
  14. Well I guess you are definitely not one of the 3000 mile oil change herd. I am not the most informed on Amsoil, but know of it and some of its claims. For what you are saving or what ever the advantages to a 25,000 mile oil change would be, I would not be comfortable. I have an 88 and 93 Ford. I have changed the oil, real close to 5000 miles since new. Both engines are within 5000 miles of 300,000 miles. I mostly used Castrol 20w-50 year round. Neither engine uses any oil amount that requires adding. I am sure Amsoil is a very good lubricant, but I cannot even see 15,000 miles as doing anything good for your engine. Your engine is what you are trying to maintain and protect, not your wallet or bragging rights. I might consider 7000 miles, but would still not be comfortable with 10,000. Don't come unhinged on me, on this. I am just speaking from what I would do. Amsoil is selling a product and you are a potential customer. No matter how loyal we are to a brand, all compaines are in it to make MORE money. If I wanted to stay with Amsoil, I would back my oil changes down until I got an anaylsis that was good. If you are still in warranty, you may want to consider how that much mileage would figure in on a claim, not that I would volunteer it. If you take into consideration the price of an oil cooler. It doesn't sound like you are going to buy a J C Whitney model, installation and the price of Amsoil, the risk of increasing the engine wear, are you really coming out ahead anywhere in the whole scheme. I hope you have taken this as genuine concern that you are not on the best path and reconsider your options.
  15. You did not state what your driving conditions are. I did notice you are in Texas where, I am sure the heat can be extreme. Two situations that might put extreme heat in your engine are extended high loads, like towing or high speeds not in overdrive. Second, would be extended idling in close traffic with the A/C and other accessories on. With that on the table, if you are exceeding these conditions, I guess an oil cooler is an option. I may be totally wrong on this, but I would associate oxidation more with not getting the moisture out of the engine with short trips or run times. Since you have gone to the trouble to have an oil analysis, I will let the diagnosis you have be correct. Maybe a less expensive solution would be changing types or brands of motor oil. Most people that would spend money on an oil anaylsis, would have no problem in paying for full synthetic motor oil. Since that information is not provided, my guess is yes. If you have having problems with full syn and agree heat is the problem, you might considered shorter oil change intervals. I hope you are not one of those in the herd of 3K mile oil changes. If you are doing all the options listed and got the negative results stated, I would consider a cooler.
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