ben senise

i was using the breaker bar to loosen, torque wrench to tighten and an old fashioned "X" shaped lug nut wrench to spin them. i bought the impact wrench because i was tired of the work involved with using the breaker bar to loosen them. i am puzzled by the fact that so many people don't have this problem and yet so many others do. anyway, steel nuts are the solution for me so i'll pick up a set.

i was having this problem even before i bought the impact wrench.

i do my own wheel changes twice a year (because there's always a mad rush as seasons change plus i want to have them changed when *I* want them changed.) i use a 21mm socket with an impact drive to take them off. the problem is that the lug nuts get stuck in the socket so i loosen them, then rock the driver back and forth to loosen them, then continue until they're off. it's not the end of the world but it's a hassle that would be nice to avoid. the nuts themselves don't look distorted though. they just are. a solid steel nut would just be better. i'll just try and pick up a gorilla or mcgard set next time i go south of the 49th.

thanks for that info. i didn't think of looking for reviews on amazon. we have winter conditions here so no go for me. the mustang lug nuts won't really solve the problem since they are the same design, just less expensive. thanks

I'd like to replace the deformed original aluminum covered lug nuts with sold steel version. it's hard to find many of the brands like gorilla or mcgard. i have managed to find Dorman brand lug nuts https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-91463-611-007.aspx?year=2020&make=Ford&model=Edge&parttype=Wheel%20Nut&origin=YMM has anyone here used Dorman lug nuts? if so, how was your experience? thanks

i will do that and report back what happens. since i'm sitting in the car, facing the open garage, i can see that nothing is going on. the motor is not engaging. it's just dead. i've never waited long enough for the lightbulb to go off but maybe i can try that in order to test your idea. thanks. i don't usually keep the original remotes in the car. i only grabbed them when i started having this problem. so every time that i had the problem of homelink not closing the door, i used the remote and the door closed immediately upon the first click. thanks to both of you. i'll report back on what i find.

i've been having trouble with the homelink on my 2020 Edge ST. my garage door will not close when i press the button on my visor. interestingly, i have never had a problem opening the door even from a block away. i close the door by getting out of the car and pressing "enter" on the keypad mounted on the garage wall (which is also wireless IIRC) but then when i get back home, i can always open the door from close or far (300m) it seems to get worse. the problem occurred only once in a while but it gets progressively worse and then it won't work at all. i erased and reprogrammed the homelink settings a few times as per instructions in the user manual and i followed the liftmaster instructions as well pressing the "learn" button on the motor. like i said, it works for a while but gets progressively worse over time. i've done this about three times now and always exactly the same. the LED on the homelink flashes very rapidly when i press the programmed button. it just stays lit when i press either of the non-programmed buttons. the remotes that came with the house work fine. i keep them put away with no batteries. i'm not super familiar with the rolling codes tech but i'm wondering if this could be causing the problem. as i live in a development, all the houses on my block were built the same year. they all have the same hardware, e.g. liftmaster garage door openers. could someone else be messing up my opener? after searching this forum, i have found other problems with homelink but not this same scenario. any opinions on whether this is an issue with the car's homelink or with the liftmaster system? any ideas on what to do? and please don't suggest erasing and reprogramming. i've already done that three times. thanks in advance

just thinking out loud here but in the image on this page https://www.borla.com/products/ford-edge-st-cat-back-exhaust-system-140766 the tubes forward of the rear-most exhaust pieces, look like they are bent upwards a tiny bit. any chance the installers put them in upside down? first thing i would do is have a look under there.

the RFID never uses the battery. it can't. it's not wired to the battery in any way. you can take out the little "pill" and look at it. it is totally self-contained and waterproof. it's an antenna and a chip. the radio signal from the car energizes the circuit through the antenna. the chip processes the signal and transmits a new signal with the code. all of this is using extremely weak signals which is why, as you say, the key has to be close to the transmitter/receiver. the battery is only used for the transmitter functions of the key: lock, unlock, remote start, lift gate, panic, etc.

1. The RFID in the key-fob does not use the battery. It is passive. The car has a transmitter that emits a radio signal. The RFID captures that signal and sends it back with a code. The energy for this is from the radio signal, not the battery. If you are not able to start the car with the key in your pocket, but you are able to start it with the key in the position that you describe, then there is another problem. 2. Do you have the owner's manual? it's quite helpful for things like this. My 2020 says: i would guess that yours is similar. any of those points true? 3. worth upgrading? that's up to you. for me the juice wouldn't be worth the squeeze. i would possibly just get an aftermarket radio.

you should be able to eyeball the cubic foot. it doesn't have to be precise. from what i know, the filling should be fairly loose. no resistance to speak of when you touch it. it should not feel solid by any means. far from it.

i think you have convinced me that i should do that to my 2020 ST!

a picture would help. are you talking about the vertical piece? is it broken or did it just come off? did you take it to a dealer or an auto-glass repair place? my guess is that they're telling you the whole thing needs to be replaced because the piece is bonded to the glass at the factory. Need to find out if it's available as a part. If so you can replace it.

i think i need glasses and more patience. i saw the chrome on the lower right corner and thought that said EDGE. sorry!

yuck. do they have to put "FORD" a second time under the Blue Oval (that says Ford as well)? i find that thing to be horrendous.

it's a kickstarter project and the first 50 are $899. none had been taken when i looked just now. it's strange because it looks like an original ford part. they must just be reprogramming them somehow. are they making the frame or using factory ones as well?

thanks but no iPhone for me. I'm not willing to be locked into that walled garden.

very nice, congrats and welcome!

that's great info. thanks for making the video.

what is the reason for you wanting the system to read a fifth wheel? so you can monitor the spare while it's in the back? or are you worried about having to perform a manual reset after changing a tire due to a flat? the car only has for sensors so it can't monitor the spare tire. would be cool if it could but alas. if it's the latter, don't worry. the system will automatically read whatever tire is placed on the car. i have summer and winter tires and never had to reset anything. just drive a little distance and everything works. i also carry a small tire compressor so i could top up the spare if needed. but checking it on a regular basis is still the best.

i have never seen magnetic connectors like that. excellent idea. i think i'll grab one of those. i used to have a wired dock but i got worried that the cops would bust me for it since they are really cracking down on distracted driving. they've busted people with their phones sitting in the console while plugged in. not even using them. just from a technical point of view, i'd still like to know if it's possible to up the wattage though.

@Haz thanks!

i was worried about this but went ahead anyway. i finally managed to snag a "motorola" MA1 wireless adapter for android auto. it works perfectly. when i used my pixel 5, i plugged it in to a USB cable and it charged fairly quickly. now when i use AA wirelessly, i lose a bit of battery power even when the phone is on the wireless charging pad. i just drove an hour using googlemaps and listening to tidal and i lost a few percentage points of my battery. not a huge deal and i could deal with this on a longer trip by plugging in the phone like i used to. i did a quick search online and nothing popped out so i thought i'd post something here before i go to bed so that tomorrow i will wake up and magically find the solution to this problem here on this forum. ? i have to verify but i think my phone can charge wirelessly at up to 10w. i'm guessing that the Qi pad in the edge is 5w. i'm going to look for a way to increase that power. an updated component? a hack? i'm open to suggestions.

i concur with @akirby 100%. No way i would touch that without an estimate. i was on another forum years ago where someone had a similar crash sitting at a red light in a left-turn lane. everyone else said that it was probably not too bad. i said the car was totaled because they hit the wheel. it turned out that the car was totaled. i'm not saying that this Edge is totaled but it is severely damaged. i would only buy it if it were almost free.

a couple of points that may or may not be related; 1- measured voltage is irrelevant. it can still show 12+v and not have enough juice to crank. i had that happen and the cause was a cracked cell. still showed good voltage but not enough current would flow. 2- the batteries in the key fobs are for the lock/unlock and engine start transmit function. the anti-theft chip in the key is passive (RFID). it works without a battery and you can test it. the fact that you removed the terminal and replaced it could mean that you may have dislodged corrosion on the battery post. do you have a battery post cleaner brush? google it if you're not familiar. that would be my first step.