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Radiator fan assembly replacement procedure


autom8r

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Last weekend I replaced my faulty fan assembly. The fan speed control module failed, leaving one of the fans operating at high speed all the time [an annoying tattletale, BTW]. A new module costs as much or more as the entire fan assembly, so I opted to replace the whole thing.

 

The service manual instructs you to disconnect the upper radiator hose. That would've qualified this job as a messy PITA. A message to thirdgenlxi was quickly returned with a set of abbreviated instructions, which made the job much cleaner and easier.

 

And so attached for your use is the 'simplified' fan assembly replacement procedure. The entire job took about 0:30 minutes. Scale of difficulty, 1 to 2, about the same as rotating your tires.

 

A hearty thanks to thirdgenlxi for his advice.

Ford Edge RADIATOR FAN REPLACEMENT.pdf

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Awesome..... glad you were able to get it replaced and my method of doing it worked for ya. Pretty easy, huh?

 

 

Just an FYI though, keep a close eye on the connector to the fan module from the main harness...... I'm not sure about that particular brand, but in general many aftermarket fans are more or less....junk. I went round and round with this with a body shop that kept getting aftermarket fans (finally got an OEM one and it's perfect), and every single one the connector wouldn't 'snap' in place cuz the connector on the fan didn't have barely any of the little nub that snaps into the locking tab on the harness connector, and the connector would just slide right off. This will burn up the fan module in no time. So just keep an eye on it.... might want to give it a good tug and make sure it's on there good and solid

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Where does one find the service manual? I cannot find it anywhere!

 

Kitulu:

 

I bought a set on ebay. There are three books, volume 1 and 2 and the wiring diagrams. If you are patient, you can get the printed ones pretty inexpensively.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Ford-Edge-Lincoln-MKX-Service-Shop-Manual-SET-W-ELECTRICAL-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-/350790691012?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item51acc128c4&vxp=mtr

 

Good luck.

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Awesome..... glad you were able to get it replaced and my method of doing it worked for ya. Pretty easy, huh?

 

 

Just an FYI though, keep a close eye on the connector to the fan module from the main harness...... I'm not sure about that particular brand, but in general many aftermarket fans are more or less....junk. I went round and round with this with a body shop that kept getting aftermarket fans (finally got an OEM one and it's perfect), and every single one the connector wouldn't 'snap' in place cuz the connector on the fan didn't have barely any of the little nub that snaps into the locking tab on the harness connector, and the connector would just slide right off. This will burn up the fan module in no time. So just keep an eye on it.... might want to give it a good tug and make sure it's on there good and solid

 

You're right. i noticed that the connector was a little loose and didn't grip that little tab. I'll keep an eye on it.

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  • 1 month later...

I need to replace my fan assembly. How is the Dorman working for you? I'm wondering if I should seek out an OEM part which seems to be about 2x the $. Thanks for the instructions. Hope to do this myself and save a few hundred from what I hear the dealerships charge.

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  • 6 months later...

Saw this while searching. I've been having problem's with overheating while car is in stop and go traffic. Replaced the thermostat still overheating. I'm assuming if the car is OK while driving on Highway then water pump is OK? The AC also only works while driving so I'm assuming that it's the fans. I tried "jumping" the fans by disconnecting the fans from fcm and had no luck in getting them to turn on.

 

Long story short I've ordered the fan assembly to replace it. Does my logic make sense? Anything else that could be wrong?

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RJN0711

 

The better code readers will let you scan the temperature. A reading from a bad sensor will not make sense, reading absurdly high or low or not read at all. If the sensor was faulty, the ECM would cause the fan to run at high speed to protect the engine. The temperature sensor is connected to the ECM, and the ECM decides whether to turn the fans on or not. The output from the ECM signal may be on/off or PWM, depending on the fan module.

 

The temperature sensor is not a thermostat, but a thermistor or RTD, a device that varies in resistance based upon temperature. Some are non-linear.

 

There are two different style fan assemblies. One is specific for Edges equipped with tow packages. The two are not interchangeable so make sure you order the right one. The fan motor windings can be tested by disconnecting the motor leads from the fan module on the housing and checking their resistance. If the motor windings are open or shorted, the motor is fried.

 

In your case, I think one or both of the fan motors is fried. If after you install the fan assembly and immediately the new fans spool up 100% with a cold engine, I would check the temperature sensor next. It could be that a bad temperature sensor caused the ECM to spool up the fans and that the fan motors fried after being on all the time.

 

Of course I yield the floor to thirdgenlxi if he wants to chime in!

Edited by autom8r
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  • 1 month later...

I am having the same problem with the 1 fan (drivers side) going full out all the time, but this is a brand new fan I ordered and installed per the instructions I got here. The factory fan stopped coming on and car was overheating when at a standstill. So does this mean the new fan I just bought (TYC) is bad?? I was told this was a good brand. Please any help would be appreciated. I am not very familiar with working on cars, but I am an electrician and pretty mechanically inclined. Again thanks for any help

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There are two different style fan assemblies. One is specific for Edges equipped with tow packages. The two are not interchangeable so make sure you order the right one. The fan motor windings can be tested by disconnecting the motor leads from the fan module on the housing and checking their resistance. If the motor windings are open or shorted, the motor is fried.

 

In your case, I think one or both of the fan motors is fried. If after you install the fan assembly and immediately the new fans spool up 100% with a cold engine, I would check the temperature sensor next. It could be that a bad temperature sensor caused the ECM to spool up the fans and that the fan motors fried after being on all the time.

 

Rdom10:

 

I'm not familiar with the TYC brand, but it sounds like the temperature sensor may be at fault. I would have the codes read using an OBD reader and see what the engine temperature is. If the value is out of line with what you expect or feel putting your hand around the radiator hose the sensor will require replacement.

 

The temperature sensor is on the intake manifold, so while you have the upper intake manifold off, replace the spark plugs too.

 

Good luck!

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Yes.

 

The CHT is located beneath the lower intake manifold. Bring the engine to temperature and use a better OBD reader to read the temperature through the PCM first. Use a non-contact IR thermometer to measure the temperature of the lower radiator hose. Compare that to the reading you're getting from the CHT through the PCM and OBD reader. The readings should be within a few degrees of each other. Look out for the fan blades!

 

Good luck!

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Not looking like CHT, finally broke down and took to a mechanic. He thinks its the fan module. I have a new fan ordered from amazon but probably won't get it in before I leave. Will have to finish when I get back, but will be back on to hopefully say every things good and how I fixed, Thanks again!

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  • 4 weeks later...

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