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08 Edge SEL charging issues


Liz1215

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Hello,

 

Does anyone have know what could possibly keep my battery light on? I purchased and installed a new alternator and before install it tested good, I also installed a new battery, cleaned and tightened my battery cables before install. Swapped my pcm fuse for a blower fuse just to test if that was the issue, and the battery light is still on. I’m at a loss and don’t know what else to try.

 

thanks for your help in advanced.

 

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I bought a reman alternator from o’reilly’s but had them rest the alternator before I left the store and it tested good, the battery is also new. I don’t have a multimeter I could purchase one though?

Edited by Liz1215
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1 hour ago, Liz1215 said:

I bought a reman alternator from o’reilly’s but had them rest the alternator before I left the store and it tested good, the battery is also new. I don’t have a multimeter I could purchase one though?

On this forum and another one I frequent there's been reports such as yours with rebuilt alternators, and without doing any diagnostics, the alternator would be my guess as to what's wrong.

 

Here's one of many examples:

https://www.kia-forums.com/threads/2005-kia-sedona-lx-multiple-alternators-and-batteries-replaced.221729/#post-1308481

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24 minutes ago, 1004ron said:

On this forum and another one I frequent there's been reports such as yours with rebuilt alternators, and without doing any diagnostics, the alternator would be my guess as to what's wrong.

 

Here's one of many examples:

https://www.kia-forums.com/threads/2005-kia-sedona-lx-multiple-alternators-and-batteries-replaced.221729/#post-1308481


Even if the alternator tested good on the bench test prior to installation? 

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19 minutes ago, Liz1215 said:


Even if the alternator tested good on the bench test prior to installation? 

Yes, and who knows what criteria they use for testing.

 

You're better off having an auto-elec shop rebuild your original one, or get a good identical one from a wreckers yard, or a new OEM alternator.

 

Try a search for radiator cooling fan assemblies - its known here that all third-party fan controllers don't work, reasons unknown.

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Yes, you need a basic MultiMeter\VoltMeter.  An OBD2 Scanner that can read+reset TroubleCodes is also recommended.

Engine shutdown, Battery should read approx 12.8v (newer) ~ 12.3v (older, time to consider a new battery).

Engine running after cold start, Battery should read approx 14.0~14.5v = charging.

Engine running fully warmed up, Battery should read approx 13.5~14.0v = charged.

 

Edited by DILLARD000
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On 7/1/2022 at 11:07 PM, 1004ron said:

Yes, and who knows what criteria they use for testing.

 

You're better off having an auto-elec shop rebuild your original one, or get a good identical one from a wreckers yard, or a new OEM alternator.

 

Try a search for radiator cooling fan assemblies - its known here that all third-party fan controllers don't work, reasons unknown.

 

16 hours ago, Haz said:

Have you checked fuse F8 in the Battery Junction Box?...

 

1735437256_ChargingSystemWiringDiagram-2008EdgeWorkshopManual.thumb.jpg.737534a2b995c4a23cb8eda58646612c.jpg

 

That schematic is why I don't believe that the auto accessory shops have the ability to test these alternators,.

The old type that had just two connections they could reliably bench test, but not the latest ones that have data communication with the vehicles body control module.

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