Coolant Flush

[NzP]

1 hour ago, dabangsta said:

Your 2009 was a transition year, from Gold to Dark Green. HOAT to POAT change.

 

If there was one thing I wouldn't trust to AI is coolant in any Ford with the 3.5. I changed my coolant every 40,000 miles on my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, and at 160,000 I had the water pump failure that filled the crank case full of coolant.

 

You can't even say if it is conventional green or long life, just keep pasting in the formulation. Look up the Ford specification like WSS-M97B51-A1 or WSS-M97B55-A (your owners manual should tell you, and if it is like my other transition year cars, a sticker on the degas bottle, or a build date cut off) and see of the coolant you are trying to use, I assume the Peak Full Force (conventional or long life) wasn't tested, certified, or says it meets either of those specifications.

So I got a headache again: My water pump failed at 105K(right after I bought the car), so I assume no one changed coolant since beginning. Are u trying to say that Peak Full Force won't work?

[Samurai Edge]

What we are all trying to tell you is stick with OEM Ford Motorcraft coolant.  Just make sure you use the correct formula for your Edge.

 

Check your Owner's Manual for the correct formula.

 

Ford, like other manufacturer's, design a specific formula coolant for their vehicles.  It is designed for a specific purpose.

 

Other coolant manufacturer's, like Prestone, Peak, and numerous others, design their formulas to be a formula for every brand car, a one size fits all, despite the fact that are specific differences between different formulas for different cars.

 

Will they work?  Mostly if you pick the right one.

Will they void a warranty?  Probably not.

Will they do the EXACT same thing as the manufactures specified formulas?  NO

[NzP]

10 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

Will they do the EXACT same thing as the manufactures specified formulas?  NO

 

The main reason - to lower the freezing point, which is -15 Celsius now in my current old coolant. I drove last 3 winters with no problems.

I used to work as a mechanic for years and most of the shops I know just add this yellow universal coolant to almost any car.

My current coolant is very clean but I diluted it with boiled distilled water at the time I replaced my water pump 4 years ago.

 

 

[1004ron]

Quote

I used to work as a mechanic for years 

@NzP what exactly do you mean by that - are you a trained and qualified mechanic?

[1004ron]

On 10/20/2026 at 12:05 AM, dabangsta said:

Your 2009 was a transition year, from Gold to Dark Green. HOAT to POAT change.

 

If there was one thing I wouldn't trust to AI is coolant in any Ford with the 3.5. I changed my coolant every 40,000 miles on my 2012 Fusion with the 3.5, and at 160,000 I had the water pump failure that filled the crank case full of coolant.

 

You can't even say if it is conventional green or long life, just keep pasting in the formulation. Look up the Ford specification like WSS-M97B51-A1 or WSS-M97B55-A (your owners manual should tell you, and if it is like my other transition year cars, a sticker on the degas bottle, or a build date cut off) and see of the coolant you are trying to use, I assume the Peak Full Force (conventional or long life) wasn't tested, certified, or says it meets either of those specifications.

 

21 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

What we are all trying to tell you is stick with OEM Ford Motorcraft coolant.  Just make sure you use the correct formula for your Edge.

 

Check your Owner's Manual for the correct formula.

 

Ford, like other manufacturer's, design a specific formula coolant for their vehicles.  It is designed for a specific purpose.

 

Other coolant manufacturer's, like Prestone, Peak, and numerous others, design their formulas to be a formula for every brand car, a one size fits all, despite the fact that are specific differences between different formulas for different cars.

 

Will they work?  Mostly if you pick the right one.

Will they void a warranty?  Probably not.

Will they do the EXACT same thing as the manufactures specified formulas?  NO

@Samurai Edge in this case the Owner's Manual specification has been superseded as mentioned by @dabangsta and this was due to research and development by Ford to reduce the risk of this V6 engine with its internal coolant pump.

 

Ford also revised the fluid for my 2017 V6 which doesn't have the risk of the internal coolant pump, and that's what I stick with.

 

There's certain fluids and lubricants that I use Non-OEM such as brake fluid, engine oil, RDU and PTU oil, and some that I stick with the OEM such as the coolant where we don't have the specific chemical composition and the reason for Ford's revision.

[Samurai Edge]

On 10/19/2026 at 6:47 PM, NzP said:

I think I am going to drain 1 Gal of original green(or blue) coolant(I tested it with a tester that has plastic balls inside - 2 balls were floating only which tells the freezing point is -15C) and will add 1 Gal of brand new PEAK Full Force (water(7732-18-5), Ethylene Glycol(107-21-1), Diethylene Glycol(111-46-6), Denatonium Benzonate(3734-33-6) and Proprietary inhibitors)- an AI said it will work but I don't really want to trust an AI.

 

On 10/18/2026 at 1:50 PM, NzP said:

As I said - my coolant is already premixed.

So if the manufacturer of that coolant says it works with all makes and models(which means I can mix it up) - someone would definitely sue them if it wouldn't work then.

 

NZP said:

The main reason - to lower the freezing point, which is -15 Celsius now in my current old coolant. I drove last 3 winters with no problems.

I used to work as a mechanic for years and most of the shops I know just add this yellow universal coolant to almost any car.

My current coolant is very clean but I diluted it with boiled distilled water at the time I replaced my water pump 4 years ago.

 

 

You seem to already have all the answers you needed before posting here.

 

As 1004ron said above said previously, and I also said, there is no one coolant for all cars.

As 1004ron also said Ford has updated is formulas and, IIRC, the latest version of coolant, Yellow, is backwards compatible.

 

Where the differences in coolants exist is in what you don't see.  Manufacturers use certain materials in their radiator construction.  In doing so, manufacturers specify certain chemicals, or combination of chemicals, to work with the radiator internals for a lasting life.  Changing the specified formulas could / may / will have a negative reaction to the radiator materials, and possibly something elsewhere within the motor.

 

BUT  . . .   as already state, use whatever coolant you want.  It's your choice.

Edited yesterday at 02:57 PM by Samurai Edge

[NzP]

we all know that most of the shops just use universal coolant for years with no problems(sometimes except EU cars).

So I think I will just replace one gallon - that's it.

[1004ron]

1 hour ago, NzP said:

we all know that most of the shops just use universal coolant for years with no problems(sometimes except EU cars).

So I think I will just replace one gallon - that's it.

I don't understand what that bold part has to do with the discussion in this thread,  i.e. what is the best option to use for this specific vehicle.