Engine Break In

[xplorgee]

How many miles should I go to break in my motor. I have not got on it yet with 350 miles. I dont think ive even got above 3k.

[Ksaness07Edge]

How many miles should I go to break in my motor. I have not got on it yet with 350 miles. I dont think ive even got above 3k.

 

Just drive normal you can "get on it" as soon as you like its just not a good idea to set the cruise at 80 for 5 hours. The cars is "learning" how you drive and is adjusting the cars computer so if you drive one way for a 1000 miles then change the way you drive after "Break in" all that "learning" is crap

[Grey]

Vary the speed for 1,000-1,500 miles (Don't set the speed control at 70 and drive 400+ miles when new) to generate a wide wear pattern on gears. This will help eliminate gear whine. Don't change the oil for 3,000 miles or so and don't go wide open throttle for 1,000 miles. You want rings to seat and bearing surfaces to wear in easily. Don't put a full synthetic oil in a new vehicle unless you live in a sub-zero envirinment. It is too slick and can promote glazing cylinder walls.

 

Everyone has an opinion, these are facts.

[fordedgeny]

Vary the speed for 1,000-1,500 miles (Don't set the speed control at 70 and drive 400+ miles when new) to generate a wide wear pattern on gears. This will help eliminate gear whine. Don't change the oil for 3,000 miles or so and don't go wide open throttle for 1,000 miles. You want rings to seat and bearing surfaces to wear in easily. Don't put a full synthetic oil in a new vehicle unless you live in a sub-zero envirinment. It is too slick and can promote glazing cylinder walls.

 

Everyone has an opinion, these are facts.

 

Why 3000 on the miles grey? I have always changed out the oil on the first 1000 miles and never had any major engine issues. I understand the full synthetic oil issue, but not the 3000 one.

[HuskieT&F]

My dealer wants mine back at 1000 miles for the first oil change. They also check things over and look for any problems. This is what I have done for all my new cars and have never experienced a problem. Based on that and the dealerships instructions to me upon delivery, I will be going in at 1,000 miles for the first oil change. The added bonus is that I do not have to fight the over tightened oil filter. After the first change, I do all my own from there out. I prefer to stick with the Motorcraft synthetic blend and find it costs about the same from my dealer as other brands at the parts stores.

[xplorgee]

Ive run Mobil one in all my cars after about 5000 miles. i change once at 1000 to make sure I get all the stuff thats in the motor when being built. I dont understand the glazing of the cylinder walls. Ive been in many car and truck forums with no record of that. Where can i find more info. I do understand the part about breaking the engine in by varying the speed. Only 700 more miles til I can go full throttle and see what this engine is made of.

[Grey]

The purpose of "Breaking In" an engine is to permit the wear parts to "Seat" correctly. In the engines in our vehicles, the piston compression rings will seat fairly quickly - say within 1,000 miles or so. The oil rings may take a few more thousand miles to seat properly. Let’s round it off at 3,000 miles for full engine break in.

 

Oil ring scrapers are barrel-faced and initially have a very small contact area on the cylinder wall. Within the break in period, we want to prevent the formation of a "Pressure Ridge" and for the rings to seat properly. It takes a fair amount of friction for the rings to seat against the cylinder wall.

 

In a perfect world, we would like to have a small load on the engine, operate it between 2,000 and 3,500 RPM and leave a margin of safety if the cylinder hone, bottom end clearances, or overall engine control deviates slightly from optimum specifications. (Another reason not to go wide open throttle until you have completed your break in.)

 

I our "Next to perfect" world, the best action is to leave the "Factory Fill" oil in the engine until the first scheduled oil change at 3,000 to 5,000 miles (or 6 months if you are not driving much). After that you should put Motorcraft 5W20 oil in the engine. It is a partial synthetic oil and is preferred by Ford engineering.

 

The problem with changing out the factory fill oil too quickly, is that the synthetic oils (including Motorcraft 5W20) are very slippery. If it is introduced into the engine before the ring seating is complete, it may cause the formation of a pressure ridge and glaze the cylinder walls. This can lead to long term oil consumption problems and the only way to correct is to disassemble the engine and re-hone the cylinders, and start over.

 

It’s not really a big problem or concern unless you start consuming more than a quart of oil each 1,000 miles. But a proper "Break In" should extend oil consumption to a quart or less each 3,000 to 5,000 miles.

[4sfactor]

All well and good, but why do cars such as cadillac and lexus all use only synthetic fom day 1, if it caused glazing, they wouldn't do that.

 

5W20 is just thinner oil than 5W30 which is actually used by both Ford & Honda to increase their EPA fuel economies by fractions of a mpg for a specific model, but those fractions allow them to not worry about bigger trucks and such having lower mpg's, since all that matters is the company's average mpg not each car/truck. The worst part about 5W20 is that the dealers buy from the lowest priced seller, which doesn't give me confidence in the quality of the oil. My cougar has 98,000 miles and still averages 32-35 mpg on the highway and I've used full synthetic Mobile 1 5W30 and Purolator filters from 1,500 miles on and have not yet had a single engine related issue. Just repalced gaskets for the intake manifolds 2,000 miles ago and was nearly clean as a whistle inside and my friends at 40,000 was coated in thick black residue.

 

I would tend to think the ringing has more to do with the way the quick lube is performed than the oil itself. "Sucking" the oil from my engine does not make me feel good about getting my oil changed by a shop, which could cause problems until the seal are properly worn in. I prefer the standard drain (gravity) when performing my own changes.

 

This isn't saying you aren't right about everything seating, but I'm not buying it all. In the end the important thing is if you have a warranty and they say get a 1,000 mile change, do it, then you won't have any problems if you ever need any work done under warranty. Also, as everyone has said before teach the computer your normal driving habits, but don't be stupid and constantly hammer it as you will most likely have problems in the future.

 

P.S. Ford's 1,000 - 3,000 - 5,000 is a crock. My salesman just told me that 1,000 was the most important for the warranty and after that just stay on the schedule of 7,500, unless you're always towing then 5,000.

[Grey]

Far be it for me, with my limited experience as the Motorcraft Oil Product Manager, to differ with your car salesman. I bow to your and his superior knowledge on the subject.

 

 

 

 

 

For the rest of you, follow the owner's manual for change intervals and proper specifications for your oil and filter products. There is no requirement nor recommendation to change the oil at 1,000 miles.

 

PS. Engines designed for full synthetic oil are machined differently when new.

 

If you want the advanced course in engine lubrication, just ask.

[07 MKX]

Touche!

[4sfactor]

OK Mr. I'm always right. If I came across as arrogant, I wasn't trying to be. I don't do pissing contests so you can take you almighty attitude elsewhere, since it seems you believe as a new user to this forum I don't have any mechanical knowledge to offer. If you noticed I agreed wih most of what you said I just questioned some of the info you gave. If you take every comment as a personal assault of you knowledge, you must be a miserable person and I feel for you. I have worked on many engines so I'm no dumbass posting useless crap, but more big blocks than small blocks so that is why i posted the question about other cars using full syn from the start and thank you for answering that, it's nice to learn something new.

 

touche what! I notice he makes no retort to most of what i say except that he's a "Motorcraft Oil Expert", so I guess that makes him always right! As for the 1,000 mile oil change it's funny that you say it's not necessary when every "engine" mechanic I know says they always change the oil on a new car is to remove any contaminents that could cause striations and other problems in the engine, as I have seen the results of this first hand. I'm sure it's not as big an issue as in years past because of improved machining processes, but it's never bad to be safe. Keeping the car well maintained is the key thing here and just because your manual says or doesn't say so doesn't mean it should or shouldn't be done. Do you really think your cabin air filter needs to be changed every 15,000 miles, no it doesn't but our manual says it should be. To me that's just a money maker and nothing more. Same goes for 5W30 vs 5W20, either can be used and it will not void your warranty if you use 5W30, since Ford knows darn well why they use 5W20.

 

I come to these forums to exchange knowledge not to be dictated how stupid I am and how smart you are! Just because we haven't been on this forum for a long time doesn't mean we don't have knowledge of autos. It's a community to exchange thoughts, ideas and information in order for us all to be more educated on the vehichle that we own so that we can make sure we get the most out of it, not to engage is who know more contests. So please in the future remember this posting replies.

[07 MKX]

:bowdown:

 

 

Oh that's right, you migrated from blueoval to here..

[jeffreybehr]

All I'm going to say about this pissing contest is that Grey, we don't need your sarcasm.

 

Ladies and gentlemen, there are other filosofies* of engine break-in. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

 

* One of my writing campaigns is to be rid of the idiotic 'ph' spelling of 'f'.

[4sfactor]

All I'm going to say about this pissing contest is that Grey, we don't need your sarcasm.

 

Ladies and gentlemen, there are other filosofies* of engine break-in. http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

* One of my writing campaigns is to be rid of the idiotic 'ph' spelling of 'f'.

 

interesting link.

[jeffreybehr]

007: "Every new car I have had over the years, I have ALWAYS changed the oil and filter after the first 1000 miles....I figured it gets rid of the leftover junk in the engine from the manufacturing process." I too use a variation of that.. I change oil and filter in new cars the same way the crooked Dems* vote in Cook County--early and often.. This Edge waited all the way to 1500 miles for its 1st change because I drove it home from Portland, OR. Then I changed them again at 2500 miles and will do so again at around 4000, this time finally installing my choice for 'world's best' engineoil, Red Line...all 5W-20, of course.. My just-sold Porsche Cayenne Turbo had its O&F changed at 33, 358, and 1930 miles.. The 1st 2 used dead-dino oil, the latter Mobil 1 0W-40.

 

007: "I used to change the oil every 2000 miles after that, but, that was getting to be too much work, and seemed I was changing the oil every 3 weeks...I've stayed at the 3000 mile (sic) mark for years." I changed O&F more often--twice a year which ranged from around 6000 - 9000 miles--than Porsche recommended, but their recommendation was 20,000 miles!!!

 

007: "if one reads the owner manual carefully, it basically says that unless you can get in your car and it is instantly warmed up, and you do nothing but interstate driving without any stop and go driving, than you have severe duty driving and should change the oil and filter every 3000 miles...more often if you are in a constant dusty/dirty envrioment (sic)." I disgree with that; I think it says no such thing, but of course changing them more often than Ford recommends certainly doesn't harm the engine.. I'll be following the normal-use interval of 7500 miles or six months.

 

BTW I use the best (IMO, of course) oilfilter money can buy, a Mobil 1 #209.

 

The overall quality of engineoil has improved markedly over the decades; I feel that draining oil at 2000 - 3000 miles is wasting resources.. Of course, as I already wrote, you're welcome to change yours as you wish.

 

Grey, would you like to add to this discussion, perhaps on the improvements in oil quality over the decades?

.

 

* Oops, that's redundant, huh!?!?

[07 MKX]

My just-sold Porsche Cayenne Turbo

 

 

 

I was waiting for you to remind us of this. I guess you forgot it in your first reply.

Edited September 19, 2007 by 07 MKX

[Good_Hands]

I was waiting for you to remind us of this. I guess you forgot it in your first reply.

 

 

 

Sorry jeffrey, but that was funny.

[07 MKX]

Personally, I would never waste my money on an overgrown Porsche thing....are you that eager for people to think that you have money??

take a guess from this:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?sho...entry7159

 

Tell me for what reason these were inserted in that thread?

 

LOL

[07 MKX]

People who have money, don't talk about it. LOL

[Good_Hands]

I have no freakin' idea.....showing off??? I could really give a damn what someone's stereo system looks like, or how it performs....must be a pissing contest, or "mine is bigger than yours" type of thing.....

 

Mine is 36 inches long.

 

Umm...we are talking about belts...aren't we?

[jeffreybehr]

take a guess from this:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?sho...entry7159

 

Tell me for what reason these were inserted in that thread?

 

LOL

 

If you don't know why, you didn't read the note. I was dsicussing the drivers I just installed in the front doors of my Edge and the pics showed how I've used these 6-1/2" drivers in my home systems.

 

You guys seem to be taking a perverse pleasure in insulting anyone who tries to help; too bad for you.

[Grey]

All well and good, but why do cars such as cadillac and lexus all use only synthetic fom day 1, if it caused glazing, they wouldn't do that.

 

5W20 is just thinner oil than 5W30 which is actually used by both Ford & Honda to increase their EPA fuel economies by fractions of a mpg for a specific model, but those fractions allow them to not worry about bigger trucks and such having lower mpg's, since all that matters is the company's average mpg not each car/truck. The worst part about 5W20 is that the dealers buy from the lowest priced seller, which doesn't give me confidence in the quality of the oil. My cougar has 98,000 miles and still averages 32-35 mpg on the highway and I've used full synthetic Mobile 1 5W30 and Purolator filters from 1,500 miles on and have not yet had a single engine related issue. Just repalced gaskets for the intake manifolds 2,000 miles ago and was nearly clean as a whistle inside and my friends at 40,000 was coated in thick black residue.

 

I would tend to think the ringing has more to do with the way the quick lube is performed than the oil itself. "Sucking" the oil from my engine does not make me feel good about getting my oil changed by a shop, which could cause problems until the seal are properly worn in. I prefer the standard drain (gravity) when performing my own changes.

 

This isn't saying you aren't right about everything seating, but I'm not buying it all. In the end the important thing is if you have a warranty and they say get a 1,000 mile change, do it, then you won't have any problems if you ever need any work done under warranty. Also, as everyone has said before teach the computer your normal driving habits, but don't be stupid and constantly hammer it as you will most likely have problems in the future.

 

P.S. Ford's 1,000 - 3,000 - 5,000 is a crock. My salesman just told me that 1,000 was the most important for the warranty and after that just stay on the schedule of 7,500, unless you're always towing then 5,000.

 

 

Look - what you are saying is not true. I don't care who told you.

 

There are no 5W30 oils that meet the Ford spec. for our engines (M2C931-A)

 

5W20 is very different than 5W30 oils - check the specifications.

 

Our engines are designed to operate at 100 degrees C. with an oil with a cSt value of 9 or less. 5W30 will generally be higher than 11 cSt.

 

As far as "you are not buying it" - do what you want, but do not mislead other owners. If Ford wanted owners to change their oil at 1,000 miles, they would put it in the maintenance guide. It is not generally a good idea.

[jeffreybehr]

Grey: "If Ford wanted owners to change their oil at 1,000 miles, they would put it in the maintenance guide. It is not generally a good idea."

 

Grey, other than the waste of recources, why is draining original oil early NOT a good idea? (I really would like to read your opinion on this, unlike 2 yokels also posting here.) Surely doing so is good for getting rid of machining and casting debris.

 

BTW I think that good PR is also a factor in Ford's recommending or not recommending higher maintenance requirements. I suspect that lots of oil engineers would support early drains of original oil.

[Grey]

"Oh,oh......are you Mr. Ford????? "Our engines".....I'm a stock holder....are they MY engines, too????? "

 

Collectively, "Our engines" ---the engines in our Edge and MKX vehicles.

 

I will ignore your sarcastic remarks in the future - and you may ignore mine.

[Grey]

Grey: "If Ford wanted owners to change their oil at 1,000 miles, they would put it in the maintenance guide. It is not generally a good idea."

 

Grey, other than the waste of recources, why is draining original oil early NOT a good idea? (I really would like to read your opinion on this, unlike 2 yokels also posting here.) Surely doing so is good for getting rid of machining and casting debris.

 

BTW I think that good PR is also a factor in Ford's recommending or not recommending higher maintenance requirements. I suspect that lots of oil engineers would support early drains of original oil.

 

See reply #7 to this thread. It's all about the oil rings, the compression rings would have seated around 1,000 miles. The oil rings take longer.

 

The OE filter is designed to trap debris. If it makes anyone feel better, change just the filter at 1,000 miles.

 

After break-in, change the oil and filters as frequently as you like - make sure they meet the Ford specs.

 

The extended oil change intervals (up to 7,500 miles) are for high highway mile users. The engine achieves operating temperature, flashes off any moisture, and as long as you are not heavly loaded or towing, can easily go that distance. City drivers ahould us the shorter change intervals.

 

And yes the oils have evolved to the point that they can perform longer. That has permitted Ford to reduce the "Cost of Ownership", by extending the change intervals. But as you suggest, the engine engineers would prefer all of us not driving several thousand miles per month to use the 3,000 - 5,000 mile change intervals.

 

I wish Ford could share the internal test results they have from testing various brands of oil. The Motorcraft oil you should buy for your vehicle will pass the Ford specifications, every batch, every time. Some of the other oil suppilers may develop a formulation that will pass the specification, 1 batch out of 10, but to them a pass is a pass, so they certify their formulation even tho it only got an occasional pass. If challenged, they will pull out the results of the test that got a "Pass". If you are using less than Motorcraft oil, then you may want to change it more frequently.

 

I don't speak for Ford, but there is so much misinformation floating out there from so called oil experts, I don't want owners to be misled. This thread, before it got hijacked, was about break-in and I happen to know a lot about it.