Livestrong16 Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 I'm planning on buying a 2011 Edge SEL later this year. I've gotten the edge twice as my rental car and just fell in love! Niether of those rentals had the SYNC so my next step is to test that out ) I have an 04 Santa Fe so any electronic upgrade is something ) Past couple of weeks i've been doing some pricing on the edge, does the price drop at all as the year goes on? I'd like to buy end of year or early 12, but I'm reading the best time to buy is around labor day. I'm also wondering how much off the MSRP are people usually able to get? The one I want has an MSRP of 35,330 and an invoice price of $32,740. Ideally with my 3-4K trade in and some talk I'd love to chisel down that price a bit! Anyone care to share some of their negotiation stories? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k1200rsport Posted April 10, 2011 Report Share Posted April 10, 2011 Well, I got the invoice pricing for my Limited, it was $34xxx. But that was the 2nd car in few months I bought from the dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Well, I got the invoice pricing for my Limited, it was $34xxx. But that was the 2nd car in few months I bought from the dealer. This will be my first car to negotiate so we'll see ) From what I read it looks doable. Just liking reading the tips from fellow buyers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal3thousand Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 This will be my first car to negotiate so we'll see ) From what I read it looks doable. Just liking reading the tips from fellow buyers Call the internet sales dept around your area and ask them for the x-plan price on a particular one that has the specs you want(mention it even if you don't have it.) Then say, what's your internet price compared to that? If they say about a couple hundred bucks, you know they're not playing games with you. They should give you an price near invoice plus you get the incentives that are currently available. Don't forget to apply for the Ford brochures online and try to get a few of them to different addresses like work/home. Send one to your hubby or parents etc (they are transferable within a household). Bottomline, they randomly come with a $750 coupon that's good as cash. Choose the email option and you can just print it if you get it. I had to request like 6 before one came to my wife's email. And it came the night before I was to "pull the trigger". Needless to say, its very nice to have. Good Luck and remember to share pics. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Oh thanks! I'll def be making some phone calls in the next couple of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richy Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Call the internet sales dept around your area and ask them for the x-plan price on a particular one that has the specs you want(mention it even if you don't have it.) Then say, what's your internet price compared to that? If they say about a couple hundred bucks, you know they're not playing games with you. They should give you an price near invoice plus you get the incentives that are currently available. Don't forget to apply for the Ford brochures online and try to get a few of them to different addresses like work/home. Send one to your hubby or parents etc (they are transferable within a household). Bottomline, they randomly come with a $750 coupon that's good as cash. Choose the email option and you can just print it if you get it. I had to request like 6 before one came to my wife's email. And it came the night before I was to "pull the trigger". Needless to say, its very nice to have. Good Luck and remember to share pics. Damned good advise there! (and I thought I was good at figuring out all the angles, hehehee) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john747 Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Seems no one really wants to tell you exactly what they paid for their Edge. Off course there are many factors involved. Here in Canada incentives, packaging and MSRP are different than in the US. To keep it simple, I like to look at it as what percentage off list did I get. X pricing coupons and insentives aside, I paid roughly 15% off list Canadian list price for what I wanted. It was a factory order, delivery in just over 4 weeks, and was what I thought a fair price. Dealers have many tricks up their sleeves and when negotiating, I alway go with the out the door price which includes tax, licensing, rust proofing, extended warranty, etc. This site, along with some other information out there helped me determine this was a realistic fare price and made the process almost painless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal3thousand Posted April 11, 2011 Report Share Posted April 11, 2011 Seems no one really wants to tell you exactly what they paid for their Edge. Off course there are many factors involved. Here in Canada incentives, packaging and MSRP are different than in the US. To keep it simple, I like to look at it as what percentage off list did I get. X pricing coupons and insentives aside, I paid roughly 15% off list Canadian list price for what I wanted. It was a factory order, delivery in just over 4 weeks, and was what I thought a fair price. Dealers have many tricks up their sleeves and when negotiating, I alway go with the out the door price which includes tax, licensing, rust proofing, extended warranty, etc. This site, along with some other information out there helped me determine this was a realistic fare price and made the process almost painless. I think since everyone is eligible for different incentives, the best way to compare, is the price you are getting before incentives. That is truly the part that you have some control over. So, your price before incentives compared to Invoice and MSRP for that same vehicle is the real litmus. You want to make sure you are not paying much more than invoice. For an Edge (remember, this is BEFORE incentives) getting a price from Invoice to $200-300 above invoice is good. You should also take into consideration fees such as a Doc fees. In CA it is maxed at $55, but in other states, there may not be a cap so beware. If you think you got "Invoice price" from a dealer, look at all the other fees and make sure it wasn't made up somewhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 Are dealerships usually hesitant on giving the invoice price sheet? I know I have tons of research to do and much more reading before I go into that dealership(s). Don't want to look like a fool who can't negotiate the price a single penny lol. Is it a waste to go into the dealership soon? I'm really not planning on buying till later in the year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john747 Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 Don't get me wrong, always understand what incentives are available and work for you. Dealer invoice price is readily available today and if you ask, the dealer should willingly tell you. Remember there are back end incentives for dealers, especially for high volume dealers, so you may have better negotiating room with a high volume dealer. Incentives aside, I think we should gage what we paid for our Edges against MSRP with explanation of course. A recent example, two friends of mine purchased identical Escapes within 2-3 months of each other from the same dealer. One received a better price but a higher financing rate, the other paid more but got a better interest rate and a trip to Vegas. In the end and over the term of the financing, price worked out the same. Although I purchased an Edge, I did better than they did based on MSRP. There were other incentives for both, such is trade in your ride and Costo rebate (Canada only). I went in knowing what I was willing to pay based on my research, much of it from this site, and worked with the dealer to get there. I was not hung up on incentives and coupons because in the end, they were all applied. I ended up in a two year lease with small buy out in two years...an option and loop hole the dealer offered that I was not aware of. Did I overpay? Maybe but I am comfortable with what I paid. I never received a straight answer on what I should pay from anyone, including this site. The focus with most when purchasing seems to be the incentives not the actual purchase price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 Okay I get ya. I need to find the range that I'm firm on as I walk through the door. The price before I apply my trade in and such. You did make a good point, the finance rate is another big big factor. I might get the price I want but my finance rate could be through the roof... which is back at square one! Obviously I'm very concerned about wiggling the MSRP down because of my range set for monthly payments. Costco auto was another thing I was looking into, but I haven't read many good reviews so far....? Very mixed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john747 Posted April 12, 2011 Report Share Posted April 12, 2011 Okay I get ya. I need to find the range that I'm firm on as I walk through the door. The price before I apply my trade in and such. You did make a good point, the finance rate is another big big factor. I might get the price I want but my finance rate could be through the roof... which is back at square one! Obviously I'm very concerned about wiggling the MSRP down because of my range set for monthly payments. Costco auto was another thing I was looking into, but I haven't read many good reviews so far....? Very mixed. Sorry, the Costco I was refering to was a $1000 rebate for Costco members in Canada. Nobody every figured out the relationship between Costco and Ford and the relevance of this rebate but it seemed to attract a lot of buyers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2011 (edited) They should give you an price near invoice plus you get the incentives that are currently available. Don't forget to apply for the Ford brochures online and try to get a few of them to different addresses like work/home. Send one to your hubby or parents etc (they are transferable within a household). Bottomline, they randomly come with a $750 coupon that's good as cash. Choose the email option and you can just print it if you get it. I had to request like 6 before one came to my wife's email. And it came the night before I was to "pull the trigger". Needless to say, its very nice to have. Good Luck and remember to share pics. Went to the dealer and had an interesting experience. They ran my credit and were giving me price quotes but not telling me on HOW much. I finally selected a model that I was eying from another dealer. Asked for the invoice (Which he showed me on his screen) Again he went to his finance mgr and came back with all these pricing quotes. Kept telling me my best option was to lease b/c my interest rate was way to high on a finance. All he said was he'd give me no more/less than $500 from invoice price(33,360). Trade in $3500-4500. $1000 incentive and possible $500 ford finance incentive. He gave me the price range I was looking at BUT I had no knowledge of leases and the pros and cons but again he gave me the monthly price I was looking for. He marked the car as sold and said he was going to get the car from that dealership. There wasn't any paperwork with pricing since the car isn't on their lot, I simply filled out their full credit report paperwork and he said he'd call me when the car was in. I did some homework and found that you shouldn't put any $$ down on a lease and to question if mileage is a factor if I'm planning on lease to buy option. Also this doesn't include my $750 brochure coup b/c it never came.. guess I'll call the marketing dept Monday and checking on that. Any suggestions on what I should do? Feeling overwhelmed lol Is it normal to not see a price breakdown b/c the car isn't on the lot? Edited April 24, 2011 by Livestrong16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal3thousand Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 Went to the dealer and had an interesting experience. They ran my credit and were giving me price quotes but not telling me on HOW much. I finally selected a model that I was eying from another dealer. Asked for the invoice (Which he showed me on his screen) Again he went to his finance mgr and came back with all these pricing quotes. Kept telling me my best option was to lease b/c my interest rate was way to high on a finance. All he said was he'd give me no more/less than $500 from invoice price(33,360). Trade in $3500-4500. $1000 incentive and possible $500 ford finance incentive. He gave me the price range I was looking at BUT I had no knowledge of leases and the pros and cons but again he gave me the monthly price I was looking for. He marked the car as sold and said he was going to get the car from that dealership. There wasn't any paperwork with pricing since the car isn't on their lot, I simply filled out their full credit report paperwork and he said he'd call me when the car was in. I did some homework and found that you shouldn't put any $ down on a lease and to question if mileage is a factor if I'm planning on lease to buy option. Also this doesn't include my $750 brochure coup b/c it never came.. guess I'll call the marketing dept Monday and checking on that. Any suggestions on what I should do? Feeling overwhelmed lol Is it normal to not see a price breakdown b/c the car isn't on the lot? Hey there, While it is true that you should try to pay as little up front as your credit will allow (due to risk of total loss), putting your trade in against it is not that bad of an idea. BUT, only if you get a good value on your trade. If your finances allow, keep the trade and sell it on your own. I "borrowed" $2,500 from my IRA account to get the deal done and plan on selling my other car on my own to pay myself back. They would have only given my like $1,000 compared to the $2,500 I know I can get for it. Here's some things that stand out to me about your interaction with this dealer: 1) Don't negotiate using payments when dealing with leases. It will be too easy for them to increase your payment by 10-20 bucks a month without you knowing (perspective: 20 bucks on 36months is the price of Navigation add-on). The first dealer I visited tried this crap and inflated my monthly payment by $20. Luckily, I whipped out my phone and busted out the calculation in front of him and caught the BS. (I didn't purchase from him and honestly feel like sending him a photo of my new car that he didn't sell me) 2) In fact, you should be negotiating the price of the car whether lease OR buy. Then you get to choose which financing option YOU want. Don't let them control you, you are in the driver's seat of the deal, and if they want to see you in the driver's seat of that Edge, they will comply. 3) Don't let him show you anything on one screen and then more information elsewhere. Too easy for games to be played. As for the invoice, ask for a print out. 4) If you have time, join the EAA (experimental aviation assoc.) and in 30 days time, you will get access to an x-plan pin (unless you kick ace at negotiating, x-plan will behoove you) 5) Pricing should be available before the car is even on their lot, all they need is the VIN. Tell that to his face and see what he says. This comes from my experience over the 2 months I spent shopping, comparing and investigating before I decided on a lease. In the end, I am driving a Limited with everything that I wanted for the same price that the first dealer tried to offer me on an SEL ($4k sticker difference ) Good luck, in any case, and feel free to PM me to chat about it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john747 Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 I completely agree with all points livestrong16 has made. When trying to figure out what others have paid, we should always compare to list price and spell out included options, extended warranty, etc. Here is Canada, there are about $6-7K worth of options you can add to a 2011 Limited so when livestrong16 compares his $4K savings on his Limited to the SEL, we are still not sure what he paid. Like anything else, you never want to overpay. Dealers may but a dumb on but they are fully aware of all incentives going and are bring them out as you negotiate wheather or not you are aware of them. Incentives change from month to month but for the most part, the bottom line ends up being the same. For me, I calculated paying 15% off list after it was all said and done. I was happy with that and the whole purchase process was actually fairly painless. To achive this, I did a 2 year lease pro-rated paying 80% up from with no payments and 20% due in 2 years. This was a option I was not aware of but offered in the negotiating process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal3thousand Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 (edited) I completely agree with all points livestrong16 has made. When trying to figure out what others have paid, we should always compare to list price and spell out included options, extended warranty, etc. Here is Canada, there are about $6-7K worth of options you can add to a 2011 Limited so when livestrong16 compares his $4K savings on his Limited to the SEL, we are still not sure what he paid. Like anything else, you never want to overpay. Dealers may but a dumb on but they are fully aware of all incentives going and are bring them out as you negotiate wheather or not you are aware of them. Incentives change from month to month but for the most part, the bottom line ends up being the same. For me, I calculated paying 15% off list after it was all said and done. I was happy with that and the whole purchase process was actually fairly painless. To achive this, I did a 2 year lease pro-rated paying 80% up from with no payments and 20% due in 2 years. This was a option I was not aware of but offered in the negotiating process. I was the one that mentioned the $4K sticker difference. What I was trying to point out was that the first dealer's terms had me paying the same amount (monthly) as a car from another dealer worth $4K more MSRP. (given same terms incentive etc; rip off city). So, my point is, if you do your homework and prevent yourself from getting ripped off, you can get more car. If I was dumb and didn't do my homework, I would be driving an SEL with 202A instead of a Limited with 302A (for the same price) Edited April 26, 2011 by cal3thousand 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john747 Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 I was the one that mentioned the $4K sticker difference. What I was trying to point out was that the first dealer's terms had me paying the same amount (monthly) as a car from another dealer worth $4K more MSRP. (rip off city). So, my point is, if you do your homework and prevent yourself from getting ripped off, you can get more car. If I was dumb and didn't do my homework, I would be driving an SEL with 202A instead of a Limited with 302A (for the same price) Sorry cal3thousand for the confusion. Yes, completely agree with doing the homework. I spent weeks if not months doing mine. My point was to simply spell out the details on the purchase to try and help others. There are too many variable in the purchase of any car so the details help make an educated decision. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal3thousand Posted April 26, 2011 Report Share Posted April 26, 2011 Sorry cal3thousand for the confusion. Yes, completely agree with doing the homework. I spent weeks if not months doing mine. My point was to simply spell out the details on the purchase to try and help others. There are too many variable in the purchase of any car so the details help make an educated decision. Agreed! There are sooooo many variables: trims, fees, incentives, rates, destination, etc. I got a lot of examples and understanding from this site, but I had to spend a LOT of time reading it over to compare the apples to the apples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOEHIO Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 (edited) When my wife and I would lease a car, we always negotiated on the price of the car first, then sat down to calculate lease payments. You really have to be careful with leasing, a dealer might base it on 10,500 miles a year, to keep the payment lower, but if you go over that in miles, you will pay dearly at the end. Unless you really don't drive that much, I would go with yearly mileage of 12,000. Edited April 27, 2011 by JOEHIO 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom D Posted April 27, 2011 Report Share Posted April 27, 2011 If you are just looking for a good ball park price to statr from, I just bought two new cars at once a 2011 Fusion and A 2011 Edge Ltd. The salesman gave me invoice on both. If you compair invoice to MSRP with out taking into consideration the license & Title, electronic filing fee, sales tax Doc Fee,Finance charges and rebates the difference between my invoice and MSRP was 6.68% Hope this helps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Livestrong16 Posted April 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 If you are just looking for a good ball park price to statr from, I just bought two new cars at once a 2011 Fusion and A 2011 Edge Ltd. The salesman gave me invoice on both. If you compair invoice to MSRP with out taking into consideration the license & Title, electronic filing fee, sales tax Doc Fee,Finance charges and rebates the difference between my invoice and MSRP was 6.68% Hope this helps I've went to two different dealerships and when I mention invoice price they tell me I'm already getting a great deal. I'm a noob @ this car dealing game and i'll tell ya it's quite frustrating lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cal3thousand Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 I've went to two different dealerships and when I mention invoice price they tell me I'm already getting a great deal. I'm a noob @ this car dealing game and i'll tell ya it's quite frustrating lol Try doing this. Price the car using this site: Bankofamerica.zag.com and then use the option to have a dealer contact you. The Internet Sales Depts are much easier to deal with. I forgot to mention that to you previously. ( I bought through Internet Sales) OR call over to the Internet Dept at that other dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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