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Thanks - what has everyone used successfully? Can someone update the post with the PN and some instruction on how to install? I appreciate the help.

 

did you see post #18.. list of exact bulbs there and the website.. no instructions though.. the manual as some for the key bulbs.. they are all pretty easy to figure out though where/how

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I did thanks. The post is missing the relay or resistor information that will slow the turn signal timing. I a interested o know what others have used. What did you do Lex?

 

ahh I see what you ask.. since jpeckinp did not use a resistor, I guess I assumed that he did not have that speedy turn signal problem you mention, but in retrospect he does not say that so maybe he does and just likes it/lives with it.

 

anyway.. of all the stuff I did do - every bulb inside the car, puddles and license plate, I opted to not do markers/turn. Those are less noticeable as dingy yellow - so I did not do them whereas the other bulbs are so badly blindingly dingy yellow. It is kind of on my tentative list to maybe do them at some point, but I blew them off.

 

If you find a resistor or fix, post it up.

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The quick flash doesn't bother me any so I didn't use either fix.

What you will have to do is remove the flasher relay and get a relay that can be used with LED's.

The relay is up under the dash just turn on your turn signal and find the one clicking, pull it then go to the local auto parts store and ask for a relay that works with LED's that match the old relay pin layout.

 

I looked online for a part number but found nothing. I guess you could go to the dealership and ask them.

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Hey Gluman,

 

Could you describe the process of wiring in the resistors? I have not attempted this before and I am a bit wary with my Edge being 2 weeks old. I want to make sure I can do it correctly. Detailed instruction would be outstanding. Thanks

 

It's brain dead. If you can strip a wire and crimp, you can do this and it works on either the hot lead or ground. I cut the hot lead and stripped both ends and crimped in the resistor. It's only one wire in and one out. I also coated the crimped ends with liquid electrical tape to form a water tight seal.They also give you the no splice connectors that you apply by putting the wire to the bulb in the left side, whip end of one side of the resistor in the other, fold the cover and clamp shut with a pair of pliers to make the connection.

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so.. if one did front and rear turn LEDs you would have to wire resistors for both sets of LEDs - 4 resistors - if the speedy click is irritating. (2 if you only did rear.)

 

so in the end, why not just replace 1 relay flasher instead under the dash with an electronic LED capable flasher and cover them all in 1 shot with no rewire, but rather simple plug and play?

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superbrightleds.com offers them (as long as the pin outs match).. I bought all my bulbs from another vendor then those guys and said vendor said they also offer an electronic LED capable relay.

 

so, if I do those reaming bulbs I have not done - turn signals/brake.. I will be trying that solution rather than wiring 4 turn signals.

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I've taken apart and put back more cars than I can remember, but I'll be damned, I can't find that flasher. It was easier to wire in the resistors, just don't wire them across the purple/white wire common on all 4 bulbs, use the other 2. I epoxy'd them to the back of the rear assemblies above the bulb and alongside the headlights in the front.

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I've taken apart and put back more cars than I can remember, but I'll be damned, I can't find that flasher. <snip>

Fords don't use flashers anymore. Almost all exterior lamps are now controlled by solid-state devices in the Smart Junction Box. The clicking sound is produced by a relay in the instrument cluster, or, on some Fords, it's produced electronically by the chime unit.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is what I bought from Superbrightleds.com

 

Brake Lights: 3157x25 Red X2

Reverse Lights: 921x12 Cool White X2

Map Lights: WLEDx6 Cool White X2

Plate Lights: WLEDx6 Cool White X2

F Turn Signal: 3157x25 Amber X2

Rear Marker: WLEDx6 Red X2

 

Here is where the problem starts. Sylvania and Ford say 2825 (W5W) is in the front map lamps and rear courtesy lamp but I can tell you on my Edge the front map lamps are 2825 but every thing in the back is a festoon bulb including the courtesy lamp.

Now according to the superbright site all 3 digit lights should be able to be replaced with a WLED series light well if the 578 series is a festoon bulb then it obviously can't be replaced with a WLED series.

 

The only other problem I had was the 921's don't fit into the socket very tight so I had to do a little cutting on the LED case to get it in but I resealed the internals with some silicone to keep them water tight.

 

I am wondering if you also bought the LED flasher for the lights. I tried to use the 3157 for the turn and brake and they flash super fast. I was told by superbrightled that I can either use the inline type or the best way is the flasher unit. If you did get the flasher unit, which one did you get and where is it located on the Edge?

 

Thanks, Lee

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I am wondering if you also bought the LED flasher for the lights. I tried to use the 3157 for the turn and brake and they flash super fast. I was told by superbrightled that I can either use the inline type or the best way is the flasher unit. If you did get the flasher unit, which one did you get and where is it located on the Edge?

 

Thanks, Lee

 

in post #68 jpark confirms they do not use flashers as we once knew them to be, it is now part of the electronics built into the SJB.

 

so, inline (LOAD RESISTOR KITS) seems the only was to address the speedy flasher :shades:

Edited by Lex Talionis
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