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I've read a few comments where some users had issues with the Scorpions and that they wouldn't balance correctly. But as with everything, people only post when something goes wrong. I've had no issues after 40,000KM (I have dedicated snows, so about 25+K have been on the Scorpions (Sport 22's) and still 10/32ths on all 4, I have noticed I need to check the pressure at least once a month, but I also do approx 5-6000KM a month, so I don't see this as an issue. In a month I've seen 2-3 lbs drop, but that isn't too far out. If you look it up, you normally lose 1-2 a month. When you say "lasted a while" what was "a while", also Nitrogen is just a trendy gimmick. Plain old air contains approx 80% nitrogen, so you're not really gaining anything, it still seeps out, perhaps a bit slower, but it does. With regards to traction. I live in Southern Ontario, I've had these out in some pretty good snow and they are not that bad, I was actually impressed. But... Nothing beats dedicated snow tires if you have that concern. I have 18" Bridgestone Blizzaks for my winters and you'd swear these things had glue on them. If you compare the best performance tire to the worst snow, you'll still be better off with the snow...in snow. I also have no issues at all with the Scorpions in the rain. In a year, I've only had ABS kick in once/twice (not including snow) and I actually expected it to and they never spin as hard as I try. :devil: 1010tires rates the Scorpions at 4.3/5 Tirerack rates them at 7.5/10 I'm not sure where you've seen all of the bad reviews, where did you find 1/5?. Pirelli also makes some really good snow tires I had the "Winter Carving Edge" on my old Nissan Rogue AWD and these were great! So they are not just "Racing" tires. As I mentioned above, a FEW others have also reported your issue, but I think it may have been a bad batch or something, perhaps a quality control issue?? I'm quite sure you've had the issues you've described, but most users don't share the same experience/feeling on these tires. I'm more then happy with them.

"Press the heated seat symbol to cycle through the various heat settings and off. Warmer settings are indicated by more indicator lights." It's a bit vague, but it does confirm its a temp setting, not a seat/back option. The seat back definitely heats up on mine. You'll find out quick enough on a cold day wearing just a thin shirt. You likely won't feel it with a jacket or a thick sweater as it has an insulating factor.

Is that how it works? I thought it was just 2 different temps. 2 for HOT, 1 for MED. As far as multiple ways to turn on the seats...most cars only have 1 physical button, just like the MFT button. I would only see this as annoying if the MFT wasn't working.

I don't think my 11's have this "cut in the middle". They must have changed them, if not, it wasn't an issue. I find mine are OK, but the driver far left should go up much higher and it should have larger edges all the way around. I used them all last winter and had salt issues in this spot, as well as the far right at the top of the driver mat as well. As far as the other mats go, any issues with them were likely that the feet were not even on the mat. It would be great if they were a bit longer in both directions. Some of the aftermarket ones are much better, but a lot more expensive.

Or perhaps... Sync or Sink!

I'm not really happy with this TSB fix on my Sport. It worked great for a while. A 4000KM trip to the east coast right after it proved flawless. Now I'm starting to see the opposite of what was happening before. I used to set the bump upon acceleration just after a rolling stop, seemingly just as it was about to shift down. Now I get a klunk when I let off the acceleration right before it would shift up into 3rd (I think). This isn't all of the time, I think you have to catch it a precisely the right RPM and speed. Although as with the previous issue. I can recreate it with a few attempts. I believe it has something to do with learning messed up shift points if you do a lot of bumper to bumper traffic. I bet if I reset it, it would be great again...for a 1000k or so. I think I'll be bringing this one up on my next service. It is better then it was, I'm just worried about what its doing to my tranny long term. Hopefully you have better luck with it.

I noticed that before the reset, but it doesn't do it now. When connected, the source list would still just list USB1 or 2. When I selected it, it would randomly tell me the device name in the bottom left, but most of the time it was just USB 1 or 2. My iPod wouldn't play at all though and stated it had 0 songs, but locked up everything in the audio setup when it was plugged in. I had to unplug it just to get any other source to work or even select. It was almost like it wasn't detecting it as an iPod, just as a simple USB device, which explains why it wouldn't work.

I just connected my iPod this morning for the first time following my 2.11 update. The iPod was dead, so it was charging it prior to starting it up and running an index. Once the iPod booted, the system detected it and turned it on, but there was nothing. I didn't see it attempt to index and left it in for at least 20 min to see if it just wasn't notifying it was indexing. The MFT shows it by name, but list 0 songs, I have thousands and I've never had any issues with it in the past in any of 1.8, 2.4 and 2.8. The system thought it was playing something and wouldn't even let me switch to the radio with the iPod plugged in. I'm hoping it just had something to do with a poor index build and the iPod booting while plugged in, but I've disconnected and restarted the iPod a few times, but no go. Does anyone know if there is a way to delete or rebuild your index without doing a master reset, or a setting on the iPod to cause the system to think it has been updated? I can do an update of my iPod when I get home, but wanted to have my tunes for my after work drive and I don't even know if this is the issue. Anyone have similar issues before? Cheers! Update: I couldn't figure out any other method so I just did a Master Reset. This fixed the issue.

Yes, but all for the dirt cheap price of more then $2000. The MS-8 is $800 alone. Not gonna happen for me. The MS-8 getting great reviews, but I'm not that unhappy with the sound. This is why I hate integrated systems. You can get great quality decks for cheap that output much better sound then most of the crap "high end" factory stereos. I just don't get it. If it wasn't integrated, I'd just put in my own.

I just did mine last night and it's the same as your dealer install, minus 2 of your updates. Anyone have any idea as to what BT4T-14D546-FA and BT4T-14F496-AS are for? I had 2.8 already, so perhaps these didn't need to be updated. ??? Confirmed installations BT4T-14D546-AM BT4T-14D546-AP SYNC compatible software SYNC compatible software BT4T-14F497-AP SYNC compatible software BT4T-14F603-AM BT4T-14F603-AP I did have one scary part where about 3-4 min into it, I had the "usb device not compatible" error. It may have been due to resetting and not understanding the SD Nav card ?? I pressed OK and it continued on taking 43 min and all appeared fine after a few very long black screen reboots. I've even confirmed the USB key didn't have the missing updates, so syncmyride didn't give them to me. It is noticeably faster. You can see it when watching the NAV. The redraws are much quicker, although sometimes out of sync. It may just be GPS signal issues. Driving at 80mph, it would sometimes jump backward a notch and then have to catch up. One think I did notice that hasn't been fixed on mine is the 4" and 8" still have different radio station genre's. i.e. I listen to an Alternative rock station 97.7 that is "Rock" on the 8", but "Educational" on the 4". That can't be farther from the truth. If anything this station destroys brain cells. Can anyone else in Southern Ontario try this out and let me know if they have the same issue? I haven't heard anyone else report this one. Cheers!

I'm not sure if I'd describe it as "...music from inside a tin can", but I think it seems we all agree its good but not great. My reason for not wanted to upgrade the speakers yet is I don't know if the issue is in the system or the speakers. I'm sure its a bit of both, but the system may be the largest factor and even the highest end speakers can't produce the missing frequencies if they don't even get sent to the speaker. If someone tries it and can say it makes a significant difference, I'll likely be one of the first to jump on that bandwagon. I haven't looked it up, anyone know what speakers we have? Also, are they still the standard Ford 6x8's. If so, that sucks as it really limits what you can get. In most cases you can do a good 61/2 with a mounting ring, which is what I'd recommend. If anyone's already done this, please chime in and let us know how it went! cheers!

I'm sure it could be easily made to sound better, but I don't find it that bad. I'm with you. My last 2 vehicles sounded like crap. This is acceptable. I listen to fairly heavy music which is usually the first to go south in a crappy system due to the extent of the frequencies being used and the amount of distortion and bass. This type of music will mask imperfections in reasonably good speakers, but will immediately amplify issues in junk. I may still consider upgrading the speakers if enough people say its worth it, but its not worth the effort right now. Re: the bias 2 clicks back...that's exactly how I have mine set as well.

Didn't you see that in the instructions? Its right under the info for Quick Detailer... 1 part ONR, 1 part Captain Morgan, 1 part ice, blend and serve with an umbrella.

Hi Mike, Yes, the 18's from a 07-10' will fit on your 11' Sport, but they won't be hub centric. (Description) This doesn't really matter as most winter rims are not, but you can get the rings as described in the link to make them hub centric. You can't go the other way from an 11' to a 07-10' as the 11' hub is smaller (unless you drill it out...someone on here has done that too). If you search on here, you'll find the ring sizes needed. Be careful with the used prices as many people base them on dealer cost and you can get a new set of aftermarket rims for what many ask for their used set. I bought new 18's for my Sport for winters. You can go as low as some 17's, but you need to be careful as not all have the same inner diameter and with a 17, the brakes are pretty tight. I'd stick with the 18's. The 22's are not bad in the snow, I'm in Canada and had a few good snow falls before I picked up my winters. Like you, I just don't want to ruin the 22's and I'm also looking for real snow tires, the 22's are good for all seasons, but nothing beats good dedicated snow tires. Cheers and Enjoy your new Edge!

I've got the Sport and live in Canada, so the snow was also a factor. I however always get separate snow tires. If you'll be keeping the Edge for a while, you'll need to replace the rubber eventually, so why not get a second set right off the bat. I picked up a nice set of 18" black alloy rims and high end winters and now I'm not worried about the 22"'s. Mind you, many people are running them in the winter. I've had them out in snow and was quite surprised at how well they handled. If you're looking at the Sport for the suspension, then you'll like the 22"'s. I prefer the "Sport" ride of the low profile compared to my 18's. They are not rough, much stiffer then 18's and likely a non Sport, but I just did 4000KM through the eastern US to New Brunswick and loved the ride. There are a few changes with the late 11 build and 12's that you may want. For one, they strengthened the roof to gain higher roll over ratings. I think most 11's you find now would be the new build though, so this may not matter.

Perhaps it did try to reopen, but maybe he was pushing down on the lid? :o

I'm with Cal3thousand on this one! I've had my hatch "magically" open on a few occasions and in every case, I could verify it was something in the way when I closed it. It's a safety mechanism on the hatch, so you can't cut your hands or head off. It's very sensitive and doesn't take much to keep it from latching. Its entirely possible that something else it going on, but in any case, the hatch is open when backing up, how do you not notice this. Even if you had .5" on either side and had to use the side mirrors to navigate, the first thing should be to check directly behind before moving. Backing up is dangerous at the best of times. My apologies if you feel I'm being harsh, but I felt bad for you until you mentioned thinking twice about getting another Ford, I think that is a bit extreme. Sh!t Happens! Just don't blame the car. I've trained myself just to wait for it to close before walking away. This way I don't start while its closing, or don't leave it open because it didn't latch correctly. I've seen people do the same with a manual hatch. Push it closed and have it not latch, but didn't realize because they were in the middle of doing something else. Technology is making us lazy, just because its automatic doesn't mean you shouldn't verify its closed, just like you would if it was manual. With regards to the FOB, I can see that issue as well, but it hasn't happened to me yet, again, I wouldn't blame Ford, in most cases a FOB with a remote hatch is...a FOB with a remote hatch, they all have buttons that can be pressed in error. My issue is with the panic button, I've hit hat a few times, its lest costly then not noticing you hatch open and hitting it on something, but it still makes me wish there was a way around it. But hey, its a panic button, if it wasn't immediately available, it wouldn't be a panic button would it. 2 minutes of searching found everyone else has the same issue, 2 even mention the hatch as the problem...you want a FOB and auto hatch, deal with it! Toyota Cadillac Nissan

Thanks wilsons66604!! So it looks like the 2nd gear skip may be part of the fix. I tried it numerous times and couldn't get it to touch 2nd. I guess the only official confirmation would be either to have Ford tell you its part of the fix, or have someone verify it before and after the fix. I wouldn't have thought to look at this before hand. I noticed the RPM's seemed to behave a bit different in that range then before, but power / response wise, it seems to be still good, if not better. I figured that plugging a hole in the plate and completely removing a check ball was a significant physical change. It seemed something should be missing. This is why I switched to manual and started playing around, it kept me entertained at 7am in traffic. I guess its 2nd on the way down that was causing the issue. Anyone here know enough about transmissions to verify or at least qualify these findings?

Update re TSB: I've had it back for 2 days now and have done approx 200KM. So far no more clunking and I was getting pretty good at being able to reproduce it at will. I'd like someone whom hasn't done the TSB yet to validate one thing. Can someone switch to manual mode, take it up to 6th and gently slow down. Let me know if it goes through every gear on the way back down. I didn't notice it before, but running the new tranny fix though some tests, I noticed when downshifting, it skips 2nd. 6,5,4,3,1. It drops to 1st in a good RPM range though, so if you come right back on it, there is no lag and no major engine braking when it drops to 1st. Also just before dropping to 1st, 3rd still has enough power that it doesn't lag much either. This may have been part of the fix, but we can validate if someone without the TSB tests the same thing. Perhaps it has always done this?? At this point it does appear to have less lag from the get go, but it did with my previous reprogram as well, but that didn't last long. It's still too early for me to give it a good review. Although starting on the 30th, I'm going to take it on a 4000+KM test drive for you, so I'll certainly update everyone after that.

Thanks for the link! I didn't realize it was that simple, which also worries me. With the amount of roll we get and the weight of the Edge, it appears to be an easy part to break. It makes sense that at times, if engaged exactly in the correct position, it would be rock stable, but even if you're out a fraction on the "notch" on the wrong side, the shaft would have to rotate a considerable amount before the "mechanism" engages the next "notch". This in combination with your axle gearing would determine the amount of wheel rotation and in turn, (excuse the pun) would translate to a linear movement relative to the size of your tire. There are still lots of comments as to how far it rolls, so we must have big "notches" as well. Not a big deal as long as everyone else is saying the same thing I know mine isn't broken. Parking brake it is!!

From what I'm hearing / reading, the roll is normal due to the size of the tires and the type of tranny. It seems to be a common report. I just started doing what was recommended and what I should have been doing...parking brake takes care of it. Re the TSB, its still in the shop, was told may be ready today, but latest tomorrow. I'm not liking my temporary Fusion, its soooo low..and uncomfortable. I also mentioned some creaking, so they ordered some "isolators" for somewhere, supposedly this is a known issue and there are parts to fix...I'm good with that. I'll post more on that once I get the details.

I've got my 11' Sport in for this TSB today. I'll let you all know my thoughts when I get it back. I don't seem to get it as bad as some, but I get minor bumps quite frequently.

You are correct! Earlier in the tread I had mentioned I was validating the amount of roll was normal so I'd know if it was possibly other transmission issues as I was taking it in for the "bump/klunk" issue. Richy had just asked me what that was, so I provided details. Its not related to the roll in park.

I think the key word is "sensation", Translation: You get "sensation" your car is broken, but it's not...it just feels that way.

Its an issue with the tranny where they have to replace the valve body separator plate with a new one, to fill a hole and remove one of the check balls and then a new PCM calibration for the changes. TSB11-05-06 I'm just confused as to why only some vehicles would require this fix. My only guess is that the issue only surfaces if you do a lot of bumper to bumper traffic. This may cause the system receive different training then if you're always driving normally. I had the PCM reset already and before it began learning anything, it worked great. After a month or so, the issue came back. I think I'm going to try to work on using the parking brake more often.