Feirstein

The H9's are the way to go. Safe and highly effective. I run them and have a smile on my face.

There are electronic converters used when a combined all red tail light is connected to a trailer using amber turn signals. A web search and then a few confirming phone calls should set you up with what you need.

Assuming your "standard" radio has an accessary input on the rear you will need two items. 1. An adaptor and 2. An HD converter. You can purchase both at the dealer (who can also tell you if it will work with your existing radio). But Ford charges a King's Ransom for these items. I gave it a pass since we have activated our Sirius radio.

Our 07's Big Ass Sunroof still works to perfection; fingers crossed. So far only the power brake booster has gone out (a $120 part from the dealer). It took my wife and I about 2 hours to chage it out.

Passing a local emission test is not the same thing as Ford haveing to run each and every motor/transmission combination with the settings fixed by the chip at the factory, for a 50,000 mile test. If the combination does not pass this long and expensive test it cannot be sold! This means it must be run under hot and cold conditions, etc. Changing the tune with a chip program by a dealer is not legal because it violates emission regulations. Some people care about the air we breath; some don't. Not at all likely that the "EPA Police" will every catch this, since the modification is expensive and thus not all that common. The potential fine would be placed against the shop making the modification. Last I looked it was about $5,000.00 a pop.

We love our 2007 all wheel drive with the "Big Ass Sunroof". Recently we had to replace the power brake booster. Did it ourselves. Wish it had better fuel economy, but not a complaint. Wish the motor did not sound so agressive at times. Other than these few points, it has been a good drive.

From the photos it looks like a North American specification vehicle.

The pigments that had been cut off were the metalic colors.

You should also adopt the shocks that are listed for the 22" wheels. There will still be no performance improvement and the extra weight will actually adversly impact performance including pickup and cornering. Also the 22" tires are quite limited in selection and are significantly more expensive.

The recent earthquake cut off the supply of some pigments. Ford switched to so standby colors to fill in the gap. I just read yesterday that the pigment plant in Japan is back on line so the colors may very well switch back before the end of the 2011 production run.

As new fuel economy rules kick in over time those heavy 20" and 22" wheels will fade into history. A dumb styling move that may please the eye but does nothing for performance; nothing.

No; you are right on.

On my sail boat changing out the old bulbs for LED's made a lot of sense; I can go a lot longer without a battery charge or need to start up the motor. But what is the advantage to changing out long lasting conventional bulbs for LED on a car? I don't get it.

Fuel with 10% ethanol does reduce MPG's by about 15%. Ethanol blends from crops is one of the worst ideas.

There are currently no aftermarket performance shocks available for any Edge. A sad situation.

Power brake booster's are a weak point. Other than that, my 07 has been solid.

I have read tests on early 2007 models and the Edge brakes were singled out for their poor performance. Those early test models had solid rotors and single pistons in front (I have read). Recently I came into ownership of a late all wheel drive 2007 SEL+. It sports vented rotors and dual piston calipers on the front. With quality replacement tires and a new set of Bendix CT front pads I find the braking performance to be more than adequate but have no idea what the test data would show. Richard

Just did this operation. At 62,000 miles the booster started to whistle. With some help from the wife it took several hours. 1. Remove the battery, battery tray, air filter assembly, etc. Then unbolt the master cylinder from the booster. (I placed some clear kitchen rap under the fluid fill cap to keep fluid from freely leaking out). 2. Then remove the brake switch attached just above the brake pedal. Don't push in on the pedal, but retract the push pin a bit and rotate 45 degrees clockwise. 3. Then remove the 4 interior bolts holding in the booster. 4. Now, for the hard part, remove the booster from the motor area. The air vacume hose must be removed from the booster first and then pull the hose's off their holding pin and move out of the way. If you know some magic it would help. 5. After it is all back in place (again, don't push in the pedel when installing the switch), you will have to bleed the break lines. If you didn't get air into the ABS system you are set to go. A double flush is recommended in the manual. We had to play with the switch to get it to function as intended. I also changed out the front pads to Bendix CT pads while I was at it. Outside pads were fine but both inside pads really needed to be changed. Odd that the noise sensor is installed at the factory on the outside pads. I reversed that upon install. Richard

Bendix CT brake pads are a good choice for this application. Be sure to flush with new brake fluid when changing pads. I am down on cross drilled or slotted rotors. You lose mass (needed to pull heat energy out of the system), and I have never seen any data to support claims such rotors improve performance.

The US Government has run tests and recently issued a news release that states that claims that a new air filter will improve fuel economy are not suppported by tests on modern vehicles. Belive it or don't.

The extra weight of 20" wheels would, in and ideal world, dictate slightly stiffer shocks all around. This is manditory if you jump up to the 22" monster size wheels. There are also fewer tire choices currently available in the 20" size.

The Workshop Manual states: 1. Remove the break pedel light switch first or it will become damaged. 2. Remove the pin holding the brake pedel assembly from the rear of the booster (from the inside of the car). 3. Undo the bolts and remove. For a large 3 vol Manual it is very short on pictures and procedures. I guess it assumes you went to Ford School and this is just a reminder of some of the procedures. It does not state that you have to uninstall the master cylinder but when I get into it I may find that that is also required. I recommend that you first fill the fluid fill to the brim and then cover the cap area with clear food film and then add the cover to keep air pressure closed off to min the loss of fluid if a hydrolic line has to be removed.

The "flush" I was talking about is not a mere pump assisted fluid exchange, but a process whereby non-OEM chemicals are in fact flushed through the system and then typically, non-OEM transmission fluid is run through the system. Many chain oil change establishments offer this flush process, and it is that process that has been identified with transmission failures.

Never flush an automatic transmission. It is often cited as a leading cause of automatic transmission failure. Not one auto company recommends the procedure; not one. The synthetic transmission fluid is good for a very long time and does not need to be changed unless the vehicle is used for pulling very heavy loads in hot weather. Perhaps a 100,000 mile drain and fill is good practice in any case, but never a flush. It is not recommended by Ford!!!!

OEM wheels from a dealer are priced so high because they can get away with highway robbery. It is assumed by the marketing dept that insurance companies are going to pick up the tab. That is why other sources for the identical item are so much cheeper. The insurance companies let them get away with this scam because they pick up the charge in their insurance rates. One hand washes the other.