CorporateEdge

I had an 08 Edge with Navigation and had no problems but it was not the best system I have used. I have now had my 11 Edge for a month and my initial happiness with the Navi (voice progaming/being able to program by voice while in motion/mute button to shut the lady up.. etc..) has faded. My system drops off a lot and manually looking for street addresses is a pain in the butt. You enter a street name and it tries to give you a whole list instead of letting your finish further defining the street (ie .. Blvd west etc..) My larger gripe is the whole sync system. My blackberry connects/wont connect. drops off for no reason. The message telling me I can load the quick dials from my phone book keeps showing up even though the quick dial is fully loaded (haven't found how to shut it off yet). The touch screen is very sluggish/slow to respond if you have ever used an Ipad etc. My emergency flashers are constantly going on due to how I place my hand to work the buttons (the emergency button is to sensitive or in the wrong place) I am also NOT a big fan of the turn signal system. constantly trying to get it to stay on or turn off Everyone must think I'm a 80 year old since I look down and find the signal blinking happily away since I can't hear it with talk radio on at a normal volume. Love the ride, love the interior and exterior, like the improved gas mileage but the electronics suck. Sync my ride ? Fix my sync !!!!

My 2008 Edge impressed me when I got it. Thought Ford has really turned the corner and I was glad I got the Edge after avoiding Ford for years. Not so impressed now. 97,000 kilometers and I noticed the paint was bubbling up rather badly along the edge of the hood by the windshield. The rust extends about half the width of the hood and is very noticeable. Took it to the Ford body shop and the manager took one look and said not covered by the warranty. I asked for a clarification as the quick reference card in the owners kit says 5 years on corrosion. They produced the fine print. Corrosion only includes rusting where there is a hole. Anything else is 3 years or 60,000 kilometers. To be blunt, this is BS. The rust is not caused by stone chips or any other sort of damage. It is rust UNDER the surface of the paint, likely due to bad prep or bad priming at the plant. The way they just blew it off in about 1 minute (no longer) really put me off. As it is a fleet car I will let it rust away and turn it in. No way am I getting it fixed on our tab. If it was my own car I would be getting Ford involved as a 2.5 year old car should not have this problem. Our 8 year old Honda Van hasn't got a spec of rust on it even with various dings, chips etc.. I had bought in to all the hype Ford has been selling about quality, customer care etc.. This experience basically moved them back in to the pack in terms of product quality and customer care. Saved about 300-400 in shop cost but won't be selling me (or anyone I can talk to ) another Ford vehicle.

I went out to my 2008 Edge Monday about 10 minutes after getting home and nothing ! I am ashamed to say that the terminals were completely covered in several inches of caked on "stuff". Its a company car so it just gets oil changes and basic maintenance and no one (including me) ever looked under the boot that covers the positive terminal. After wire brushing off the corrosion I found two things. One, I was able to remove the postive wire without using any tools. Two there is a secondary pole/nut that looks like a fastening point for additional connections attached to the main clamp that goes around the battery pole. This part seems to be designed with a fuse like connection as it was burned through and it came out of the main clamp when I cleaned it. You could see either a break due to melting or corrosion. My neighbour had a battery pole cleaner and we gave the pole and the inside of the clamp a really good cleaning, set it back on by hand (no apparent fastening/tightening bolts/screws...) and the car fired right up with no jump. It has worked fine for 3 days now but when I get a chance I am going to the garage and have them replace the whole cable with one that tightens to the pole. Anyone have any idea what that fuseable connector was ? I cant see how it would have anything to do with securing the main clamp to the pole given its location, lack of tightening options and general gauge/size. Just wondering

Its a fine build up of rust on the disc. once you use the brakes it rubs it off and the noise "disappears". As noted, not a big deal and discussed on other posts.

If you are in to talk radio and travel somewhere remote where you have really limited choices then thats what you will loose. If you follow a particular program (ie Howard Stern etc..) then that may also be a reason to renew. Like you I have a ton of music on a flash stick and I have all my favorite talk shows on AM presets so I missed nothing when the freebie ended. Its a personal call but to me it was a service I was not willing to pay for. (like on star in my old GM).

Okay, our fleet guys just got f'ing hosed by the Ford dealer. thank god it was not my money or I would be livid. The lock was really acting up with the recent cold snap and the back door was starting the same routine but on a really intermitent basis. Left it at the dealer Sunday night so they could "recreate" the problem. Got a call Monday morning saying, yup there is a problem and parts will be in the next day. I needed the wheels so I arranged to take it back Friday. As it is a fleet vehicle and I thought it was a problem with the actuator I didnt' ask any questions. Picked it up at noon on Friday and almost had a kitten when I saw the bill. 1 hour labour for diagnosis (Likely consisted of some one pushing the remote and seeing it rapid fire cycle open/closed) 2.8 hours labour for EACH door to replace the full lock assembly 2 complete lock assemblies 2 zip ties (@ 6 cents each !) Total bill 1150.00 Cdn As it is a fleet vehicle with 85,000 km on it I guess there is no warranty or the lock is not covered. I have a call in to our fleet maintenance guys about this. I can't describe how pissed I am at the dealer and or Ford. The car is an 08 and I have had over a 1000.00 in brakes and a 1150 in lock repairs. I like the Edge but I can tell you I will not be buying a Ford personally based on what this one has cost the company. That Quality is Job One slogan keeps running through my mind. I was really rooting for Ford out of all the big three but now it seems the only difference is they didn't take any bail out money.

In Ontario no shop I have stopped at does plugs any more. Its always a removal/inside patch/reinstall. I stop at a lot of construction sites and pick up nails/screws all the time. The law is apparently 2 patches per tire and then you replace it. I will see as one tire has already been double patched. Cost at an idependent tire store is about 27 dollars (Cdn). The counter guy told me they don't make money on repairs but i find that hard to believe as they don't need to take up a hoist bay to pull the tire (dolly jack works fine) and the guy doing the patch is usually the lowest seniority staff member. It took 15 minutes last time I was there so by my math it seems like someone is making some money somewhere.

Do you using the parking brake ? Were you able to "locate" the sound of the bang? (was it in front/middle/rear of the car?). I still think the parking brake does not release fully based on the "feel" I get occassionally from my 08. Seems like something is holding it back. And before anyone comments, no there are no warning lights and yes the pedal is fully up/released. Supposedly the tranny "learns" how you drive and adjusts shift patterns to match it somewhat. I get a sudden hard shift when starting off on cold mornings, usually going from first to second. As I don't go screaming up the street (live by a school zone) I think the tranny does its own thing every now and then just for the fun of it. Hopefully someone will help you out.

So did this fix the problem? My passenger door is back to its old games now that the cold weather is here. I have to lean over to open it with the pull handle as neither the fob or lock switch manage to make the front passenger lock stop in the up/open position. I just don't see it as being worth the effort to leave at the dealer overnight (and likely most of the next day) for one crappy lock. I am getting rid of the car next year and that will be the end of the problem. The Edge is off our fleet vehicle list so that will be all for me.

My rears went first on my 08 Edge. Only had about 45,000 KILOMETERS on them. Pads fell to pieces when they took the brakes apart. I have a sneaking suspicion that the emergency brake on the edge isn't releasing fully even though the light goes out and the emergency brake pedal appears to be fully off. I get a burning brake smell every now and then and it seems to come from the rear. I would bet this is related to poor rear brake life. I did the rear (rotors and pads) and then had to follow up with the fronts about 5 months later. $1000.00 in brake work on a 2 year old car seems steep to me. Its a company vehicle so the cash didn't come out of my wallet but I am becoming less impressed with this vehicle as it ages. Doubt we will buy it when it comes off lease even though we get a really good price from our company. Still better than any GM or Chrysler I have had in the last 20 years. Our Honda van is still the best vehicle we've had but you paid for it up front in the purchase price.

As pointed out, you could "squeeze" someone in between two rear facing car seats but it would be really tight. The seat belt buckle location would likely make it difficult to buckle up and they would likely scrape their hand up on the car seat plastic digging for the buckle. The other thing about the buckle location is that when they kids switch to booster seats you will still end up having to help buckle them in as both my kids found it very hard to find the buckle and/or do it up.

Okay, my 2008 has now had the front rotors and pads replaced at 64,000 KM (not miles). This is after the rear rotors and pads got replaced about a month or so ago due to squealing,binding. Its a company vehicle so the fleet card pays for it but the charge is just over 500.00 for the fronts and 500.00 for the rears. Two different shops with two different chains that our fleet people send us to. My miles are about half highway (with some stop and go driving) and half serious city stop and go. If I was paying the tab I would be seriously pissed about a car that is less than two years old and has under 45,000 miles on it requiring over 1000.00 in non-warranty brake work. If it was personal I would have been at the dealer pushing for Ford to step up to the plate (even though brakes are viewed as normal wear/tear). - the rears should normally last way longer than the fronts on a vehicle - the unbearable noise that prompted the rear work was an almost continous moan squeal. the mechanic pointed out a ridge on the rotor at the outside edge of the brake pad location. Not a groove. The rear pads fell apart literally when taken off. - The fronts were pulsing like a bucking bronco when i stopped from any real speed. They also had the ridge and warping I had high hopes for my first Ford in years but based on 1000.00 in brakes in two years this type of operating cost has convinced me that Ford has not made enough strides to make me spend my own money on one. I know other brands also have crap brakes/rotors (had a Chrysler) but our personal Honda van has 78,000 km on it. Rears are original and the fronts had the rotors done a while ago under warranty by Honda Canada.

I believe all new vehicles have a data recorder on board to monitor engine performance. This is how they are able to use the diagnostic computers to try and ID problems when you bring it in for service The big brother aspect is a simple matter of matching up the engine RPM and gear to determine the vehicle speed etc.. I have no idea how long the data is retained before it is over written by new data. I take it you do not have the GPS option if you are concerned about big brother. How about that cell phone in your pocket ? All the neat "toys" have unintended other uses depending on how you look at it.

So those rotors I see hanging out beside the school smoking are just misguided then ????

They will likely fix it. I could not see from the pictures if the air bags went off. Figure several thousand for the new air bags, sensors, interior trim panels to cover them. Also in one shot there appears to be deformation of the passenger front door. That would indicate that the unibody is bent, likely downward given the type if impact. They can likely straighten the body out. The one thing you should check on is if your policy (or state law) allows you to insist on OEM new replacement parts. Know exactly what your policy says and what your rights are before agreeing to anything with the insurance company and/or body shop. Put it in writing also (i got salvaged parts in one of my claims and it caused all kinds of problems). The key thing is you were not hurt. drag about the car !

Yes I would agree 16,000 miles is low. If its just one brake thats making the noise that indicates a problem with the brake such as sticking calipers etc.. I would doubt the dealer will do anything about "pads" as they are a "normal wear" item and the type of use really defines their life span. Highway miles can be a lot less abusive to the brake life versus constant stop and go city driving. The dealer has no idea what type of driving your car has been used for so they rarely cover pads as a warranty item. That said, I would ask them how its "normal" if only one pad or brake is the source of the problem. If only one pad is gone then that would seem to support the arguement that the brakes are out of adjustment, not releasing etc... which should be a warranty issue. If that pad failed due to warranty problems related to the brake while the others are fine then it should be covered. Its kind of strange the rear brakes are the source of the problem. My rear pads / rotors went at 50,000 km (32,000 miles) but you would think the fronts would go first since most of the mass is up front and they take the majority of the braking load. Let us know what the service guys find and make sure the work order is in your words not the advisors.

When is it grinding ? When you first drive it in the morning and then it stops ? All the time ? At that mileage I would be taking it in to the dealer you bought it at and ask them to inspect the brakes. It might be contamination on the pad, a bad rotor, calipers not releasing fully. Let them see what they can determine. At worst you will have a document trail if there are later problems. Make sure your work order states exactly what your problem is in YOUR words. Don't let the advisor summarize your wording to something like "brake noise-rear".

Given service costs in the USA are usually much cheaper I assume they are doing all 4 rotors for the price you are quoting. I'm not a mechanic but what the #*!! is a hot spot? Area of locallized heat distortion caused by contaminents on the brake pad ? My rotors looked like an old LP with all kinds of grooves on the face and a ridge of metal just outside of the pad location. The 530 figure I gave was rear rotors/pads only and "service" on the fronts It seems like rotors are now a standard replacement item like pads on most cars. The days of being able to turn the rotors a couple of times before having to replace them are long gone. I guess thats progress (???)

Safedog Is this an aftermarket Nav unit that you or a electronic dealer installed? If I read it right you can load 4 out of 6 slots but now none of the CD's play?

terrapete, I assume you are up here in Canada (hence KM vs Miles) and that you are taking it to a Ford dealer. As I indicated in retrospective I wish I had taken it to Ford first. The "word" my brake shop got from their contact at Ford was there is an issue with sticking calipers. In order to avoid the "we cannot reproduce the problem" crap with the Ford Dealer try and figure out when the problem typically happens and recreate them prior to dropping off the car. In my case I would have had to drive for 10-15 minutes on the highway to heat things up. This assumes the car doesn't cool down while you wait to take a service rep out for spin. Be specific about what they need to do to recreate the problem. If its 10 minutes highway vs 20 minutes city stop and go etc.... Sounds like your rear calipers are not fully releasing which is what I bet my problem was. Ask them to pull a rear brake pad, not just inspect it in place. As I mentioned my pads were cracked to the point they fell apart when removed. Also, if you have a rotor pulse then you can count on warped rotors. Ask for warranty coverage/accomodation if they don't offer it. Rotors now adays are typically to thin to machine once they warp Let us know what they find out/what it costs.

We got the red and it looks great when clean. When it gets a little dirty/dusty it looks very flat (no pop to it). The upside is when I wash it I get a new car "wow" feeling since the paint comes back to life. The interior is Charcoal and I got it specifically because of the staining issues with lighter colours. The combination looks great and I bet you can find one on the dealer lot in the combinations you are considering so that you can make an educated choice. A co-worker got the blazing copper and it looks great (again, when its clean). I thought the copper would look dated after a year or so but he is happy with it. As others have said, take a pass on waxes, undercoats (especially if you plan on changing vehicles in 1-5 years) glass etching etc... Don't let them tell you "its required" or "part of the package you need to order". Thats total BS. If they try it say no thanks or I walk out and find a dealer that will sell me what I want without the extra's. In a lot of cases they will throw them in no charge if the vehicle is already on the lot rather than watch a sure sale walk out the door. Enjoy what every color you get.

By all means take it to the dealer and see if they are willing to address the rotor issue. Pads are a normal wear item and Ford or any other manufacturer will likely decline any coverage/compensation. If your mileage is all city its going to be harder on the pads but that low a mileage seems unreasonable. My back rotors and pads went at 50,000 km (see brake squeal post) You might get compensation on the rotors. Our Honda van needed the rotors replaced at 36,000 km and Honda picked up the whole cost without our even asking. Good luck

I am not aware of any identically sized non-oem filters in Canada but haven't looked to hard. I can appreciate the allergy issue but given that the AC on my 2008 isn't exactly blowing a hurricane of wind in to the cabin I am reluctant to "tighten up" the filtration rating which would likely reduce the already weak air flow. Until recently cabin air filters and hepa filters didn't exist in cars. Now my shop vac and dust buster have "hepa" filters. I am fortunate enough to not have allergies so most of these filters are of little value to me. If you wanted to see a rip off check out what the Honda Vans need in terms of cabin air filters. The first replacement on our 2003 involves actually cutting parts out in order to access and replace the cabin air filter. The filters are way more expensive and if you get the dealer to do the work its well over 100.00 for the first replacement.

Had the Edge in and the problem is "fixed". If it wasn't a corporate car and company money I would have taken it to the dealer as I agree with one of the posts saying the Ford mechanics would likely be more aware of Ford problems and it would have saved me some time and money. Bottom line is they had to replace the rear rotors and pads. I don't know if it was the cause of the problem or the large amount of driving I did with the problem occuring but the rear brake pads were cracked and fell to pieces upon removal. They were extremely glazed over and the rear rotors were a mess. $530.00 Cdn including all our taxes to get it fixed ! At 50,000 km (30,000 miles) I would be talking to Ford customer service about this problem and asking for some consideration as this just doesn't seem right. The mechanic said his contact at Ford said they have had reports of the brakes not properly/fully releasing. I wonder if this was not the case and I "cooked" the rear pads? He also did a "service" on the front brakes to ensure they were releasing etc... I had to laugh/cry when they advised me that they could not get after market rotors locally. They had to order them from Ford and they came from way across town. The Oakville plant that makes the Edge is about 15 miles from the garage ! All I really care about is I can drive without listening to the howl and squeal from the brakes for hours on end. Next I need to get the passenger door lock thats going crazy (sorry, can't duplicate problem my a**) and a drivers window that is making strange rubbing groaning sounds looked after. First year or so I was really impressed with how Ford had changed. Now I'm wondering about the quality/durability longer term. Perhaps the Fix Or Repair Daily acronym isn't dead yet. Hey, at least its not a Chrysler

I'm going to have to go out and see what version I have in the 2008. I haven't done any updates as its a company car and they specifically say they won't let us buy the updates. That said there are 5 of us with the same Edge so..... How hard is it to make a "back up copy" of the DVD (or perhaps 4 copies?)? I assume you could put it in your home PC and burn copies. Enquiring minds want to know !