NWS Alpine

Install of the new camera was simple. It took me about 2 hours from pulling out the tools to getting it all back in. I followed the same process as this http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17508-reverse-cam-woes/page-2?do=findComment&comment=129556but instead of a dremel I just used a small drill bit and it reversed the screw right out from behind. Screwed it back in by hand and then put a small zip tie just in case around the bracket. I used an OBDLink MX and FORscan to recalibrate the camera. Simple as connecting to my laptop and selecting the service action to calibrate the camera. Took 10 mins start to finish to get it completed. My camera is now 100% functional with lines and zoom.

The developer built in the camera calibration as a service function with the latest beta release. Should be simple. I have the camera and an OBDLink MX bluetooth on the way. Will update when I can get it all done. FORscan 2.3.2 beta, 2016-06-01 release notes + Service function "Rear camera calibration" for: F-150 2011-2013 model year Edge 2011-2013 model year Explorer 2011-2013 model year Flex 2013 model year Taurus 2013 model year Lincoln MKX 2011-2013 model year Lincoln MKS 2013 model year Lincoln MKT 2013 model year

All I found was this thread that has the same username http://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2087

It's the camera failing. It's failing on a lot of Edges. Can replace DIY but still needs a dealer calibration to restore all functionality. Sucks.

Using FORscan you are able to reset the camera and get the lines back after replacing the camera? Quick tutorial would be nice (skipping the install of ODB adapter and just using FORscan for this specific task). Thanks!

There is a crash that happens when you have multiple phones paired. The audio stream drops every 3-5 seconds for a half a second then resumes. Eventually the entire system lock up completely and you need to do a full power down reset. As soon as I delete the second paired phone all the problems go away. It appears it keeps trying to connect to the second phone while streaming from the first and it's not there. Then it crashes. The new software regressed this functionality as I have kept everything the same. Paired with the same phones. Other than this it is much better.

No you can't. The nav will not function until you get the SD card within a few days.

As an FYI when I updated I just left my car running at work with the keys in it. I locked the doors with the keypad. I checked it at 40 mins and it was done.

Unzip the package and copy all the contents over. The MD5 file is just used to validate the package is corretly downloaded and hasn't been tampered with etc.

Nothing to worry about. Same file Ford will be releasing later this week apparently. Just download and check the MD5.

I really want this update but don't have time to waste at the dealership. Can someone hijack their dealer's flash drive for 30 mins and upload the ISO :D

Yeah it's correct. In versioning binaries it usually goes first field is major relase then second is incremental fixes within that major release. Sometimes there is a 3rd field for internal builds tracking and even sometimes a 4th field.

They didn't properly plan or didn't have developers who were capable of programming openGL. I'm sure they had to scrap plans as they were even able to get required features to even work. If they hired good developers from the start the code would have been much cleaners and proper the first time. It's always a mess fixing bad code. Easier to start fresh sometimes if you know what your doing and have the proper time.

Ok thanks though! If anyone has one currently please take a quick ISO image of their drive and upload it somewhere like skydrive/dropbox/sharefile/etc and PM people who are requesting it. Would be much appreciated. I don't use my nav system and would love to avoid a trip to the dealer while I wait for my USB drive to come.

Dingo can you take an ISO image of the flash drive and upload it to dropbox or something similar and PM me the link! That way can create my own usb drive

I hope mine comes this week. I REALLY hope I don't have to take it in to get it applied since I don't want to wait any longer. I had my first free oil change from my dealership that I bought from this weekend. AWFUL service. I waited for almost 3 hours for an oil change when I had an appointment at 9am. You would think they would try to impress you to get you to come back. The way they handled the queue was horrible too as I got there right on time for my appointment but apparently it is first come as people with appointments after me were taken first. At my BMW service appointments I was always on time and tekn right away and out in 30-40 mins for an oil change. Glad I do all my oil changes as it only takes 30 mins for me to pull everything out and complete the job. I only went to the dealer since this one was free. Bad idea.

How many miles on your car? My mileage was about 4-5 mpg less when new. At around 2K miles it opened up and now I get close to the advertised mileage.

I just removed the front bumper and the lights. If you have power tools it will literally take 10 mins. I could not get my bulbs in without removing the lights.

The black parts that I riveted too are painted metal. They are epoxied to the sheet metal for the roof. I tried to get them off but they don't budge so I pulled the Helm online schematics and saw that you need to use a heat gun and a reciprocating saw to cut the epoxy. They are not replaceable as they get damaged. The rivets went on nice and tight and they aren't moving. Rackattack Toronto has a blog with this install on customer cars and have many miles under load. I am planning to do some front tie down straps under the hood to add some stability. With the 42" tracks the feet can get about 32-34" apart (measuring from foot to foot not to center bar). There is plenty of room for the longer tracks and I'm not sure why I didn't get them. The 53" bars are at the closest setting they can be for the feet with the location where I put the tracks. The square bars are much louder but the expense upgrading might not be worth it unless you can sell your old rack for a decent price. Starting from scratch there is no reason not to. I do work and don't have much time to work on my car. It took me over a month before I could install all my stereo stuff. I work as a Software Engineer so when I'm on a project time is limited for other things. When in between projects it's great. The weather was cold the last two days hitting down into the upper 40s but it's usually upper 70s and 80s. The water is always warm as we are in the tropical gulf stream down here.

I have the OEM all weather as they look nice. I really use them to trap sand from getting into the carpet. I would think the weathertech matts would be much better in places with snow. They would keep the salty water contained better. In the trunk I have the weathertech and it's awesome. Traps all sorts of stuff and easy to remove and hose down.

I had a chance to install my Thule rack setup today. It was going well until I got to the rivets and the hand tools provided didn't have enough force the crimp the rivet. I used my Makita impact driver drill and all was good (my Impact wrench was way overkill at 350ft/lbs). The longest part was measuring all the points to make it even and level. I used the Thule 42" tracks but could have used the 52" version for more length. The feet are Thule 460R feet with the 3101 fit kit for the tracks. I also picked the new aeroblades in 53" width. I also orded a 6 piece lock pack to lock the feet and my paddle holder. The current placement is 28" apart which is a very stable width to carry anything. I mounted the tracks slightly forward due to the slope of the roof. I wanted the rack to be slightly downward going forward since I will be carrying a 14' race paddleboard. Angled forward the wind doesn't lift it as much and with front tie downs it cuts the wind. To carry the paddleboard I also have an Inno INA446 SUP carrier and the Thule 839 "Get a grip" paddle carrier with locks. Also plan to get a bike carrier eventually. With our tailgate spoiler the racks need to be forward slightly to allow the tailgate to open without hitting the bike carrier or box. The aeroblades are silent at any speed and really changes the rack game. Yakima Whispbars are just as good. The sunroof is still fully functional which is great. I was using a strap rack as a temp solution from the old car. Let me know if you have any questions or guidance on your own install. I can give you my measurements on where I placed the tracks.

http://bumperplugs.com/BPindex.html They are $25 though. Used them to match OEM paint and they are perfect. Used them on my BMW.

I would say it's a family car. Not really a chick car. In most situations the wife will be tooling around with the kids so they will take the bigger car. The guy will drive the sport coupe or sedan to work etc. Although I have only seen men driving the Sport. My girlfriend is terrified to drive my Sport after I gave her a lecture about not curbing the rims :D

This is what I sent him in response to a PM: If you want to get OEM like performance I would go 4300K bulbs as that is most OEM color temps. Some now are going 5000K with bulbs like Osram CBI bulbs. I had a pair in my 650i and they were $200 for the bulbs alone. I have the retrosolutions 55w 5000K kit and I am happy with it but I got it cheap and I do expect it to fail. I upgraded the harness with one I made to include 2 relays. If I were you and you had no plans to do a full blown projector retrofit then I would get the Morimoto kit from the retrofit source. They are the store behind hidplanet.com and they are really reputable and stand behind their stuff. Their kits are some of the best for kits. There is no comparison from OEM to kits as far as reliability but the morimotos are the best for kits. Also prices reflect that as OEM ballasts can cost more than the entire kit. http://www.theretrof...roducts_id=3957 I would email them and ask what they suggest. I recommend going with their low beam 9006 elite kit. We don't need a bi-xenon harness because we have oem bi-xenon control from the factory wires. Also ask them if they have a 55w kit as I don't see the option. They are newer ballasts and weren't out when I bought mine hence why I bought the retrosolutions kit.

I have notice this myself where I actually rode it down until the warning with zero miles left. I have not been able to get 15 gallons in it. It always stops before then. Never had a car do that.