NWS Alpine

I used Wolf's Chemicals Deironizer gel. Same function as ironX but safe to dry on paint if you miss it. Also doesn't smell as bad and can also function as a killer wheel cleaner! Buy it in bulk.

Don't think it would. When I installed all my stereo stuff the JBL MS-8 manual explicitly stated to wire the MS-8 to turn on first from the factory head unit and then from the 12v remote out to turn on any external amps AND the factory amp. This prevents the pop at turn on. I have heard of people not seeing this and wiring the turn on from the factory amp and it causes the pop. Some more info on you setup might be helpful as the above might not apply.

I tried one of the tiny 2 or 3 inch ebay antennas and lost HD radio signal. It was ok with the stock antenna. Now I am having HD radio reception issues after installing all my stereo stuff. Not sure what happened but possible the station cut the HD signal power as it cuts in and out constantly so I need to turn it off. Don't listen to the radio often though. If replacing I would at least try an OEM tuned antenna from another car like the mini one.

I pay more for a well established shop. You want to find a shop that has been around a while and has computer cut film. Much cleaner cut than by hand. Also you know they will stand behind their product if you have issues later. Also prices vary greatly based on location. Some cities are cheap like down here because there is a tint shop on every street. At the same time you can get it done for $40 at the swap shop flea market or $200 at a high quality 3M certified dealer. Well my windshield was $160 alone since I put 3M crystaline on it.

I have had issues with mine too. Random fits where it takes 4-5 times to finally latch. One time last week it was dead and wouldn't move. None of the buttons or remote would make it move. Closed it and a few days later is making noises like the lift is struggling to open and close the liftgate. Will have to have it fixed next time I am in.

I used Helm online manuals. It was only $10 for a 72 hour access to the wiring diagrams I needed for my stereo install. I suggest using the same http://www.helminc.com/

Wonder if it's possible to push the 2013 models out early so they can re-tool for a new 2014 model redesign for mid 2013 release.

Would be ideal but there are no aftermarket struts that I know of for the 2011-12 edge. The sport is suppose to have a sport tuned suspension but not sure if it has a different spring rate and struts or just spring rates. Should be fine on the stock struts as the drop is minimal.

Also the nice part about installing these rails is that you can remove your entire rack in about 30 seconds and the only thing left is the small rails. So when you don't need the rack for a trip you don't have to worry about wind noise or gas milage issues. I would not recommend the racks that clamp over the frame into the door. The can and will scratch the paint eventually.

I looked at everything before I bought my car. I went with the pano roof and will be installing the Thule permanent rails. They rivet into the roof and are really low profile. They allow you to install the crossbars in seconds with the rapid foot packs. Also you can move the crossbars much further apart than OEM. Also the stock rails are junk as they are plastic and can't carry much. There was a guy on here who cracked his with his kayak. I will be carrying paddleboards that are up to 14' in length and need width between the crossbars. The Thule/Yakima setup can carry almost double the factory setup. Permanent low profile rails: http://www.orsracksdirect.com/thule-truck-rack-tracks-54inch.html (they come in different lengths and I haven't measured yet) Example of custom install on an edge with vista glass roof: http://rackattackvancouver.wordpress.com/2008/09/03/2008-ford-edge-custom-roof-rack-installation/ IMHO the best way to go is the aftermarket low profile rails as they allow a much higher/secure load and also allow you to get the crossbars much farther apart

Have you ever driven a car with proper projectors before? OEM HID? This is how it's suppose to be. There is a slope built into the shield to project more light onto the right side of the road and the side. You don't want it that high on the drivers side as it will blind oncoming drivers. Since both projectors overlap more on the right side it appears brighter. If that's not it then check to make sure your bulbs are installed correctly. The return wire on xenon bulbs has to be straight down or it can dim or yellow the output.

found my anser on syncmyride. It's not possible to view the current album and you need to drill down all the way again to get a song list. Looks like another careless mistake by whoever designed the usability of myfordtouch. It's kind of a joke how bad the system is in the current state.

I tried searching for this but am I just missing something simple. I looked for a way to browse the current album that is being played. Without having to hit next next next to get to songs. I don't see a way to do it on the main screen and when I hit the browse button it just takes you to the top level and you have to drill all the way down to view the current album. I just want a quick list view of the current album.

If they deliver what we have been seeing from the blog then there will be a significant improvement in response. The delay we see now is the processing behind the GUI not the ability of the screen to register the touch. The system gets the touch command but it bogged down processing the action. There has been some talk about microsoft reworking the base software to support openGL which offloads the processing of certain instructions to the video card. This was not being used in the previous iterations and clogs the pipeline of the processer. Only time will tell if it's true. If true I would expect a nice boost in speed from my experience with openGL enhancements with software. I am a software engineer.

If both lights are out then it's most likely the relay or fuse as mentioned. Having a wiring harness with a single relau is not a good idea with headlights. You never want to have a single point of failure so you can still get home. You can either carry an extra relay and fuse in the glovebox or add another relay to the harness for each ballast. Lightwerkz makes some really nice dual relay harnesses that I highly recomend. Also would suggest getting an extra relay/fuse anyways. Water can damage them but the relays they use are much more water resistent than the kit ones. Still not waterproof though. http://shop.lightwerkz.net/LightWerkz-Single-Xenon-Wiring-Harness

Yeah do not completely remove them because you could seriously injure someone if you have a rear impact. It may only be that one time you drive some friends to lunch etc. Talk about a major negligence law suit on your hands. Anyways there really is no benefit to removing the side headrests because the side mirrors overlap well into the visible area that might be slightly blocked by the headrests. Just like mentioned pull down the center part and you are all set. Ever still if you decide to take them out at least keep them in the car.

I'm going to modify the trays too and build a cover for them so the amps can't be seen when the floor is lifted. Not covering the entire tray but the part where the amps are. The RE-Q5 can be installed before or after the factory amp. The MS-8 needs the high level from after the amp or pre-outs which our OEM headunit doesn't have. That's why i need to put it in the back. Easier to wire and power off a distro block.

I am not sure with the SEL. You would still prob want to place the amps back there as it's safe and out of the way. If you put them under the rear seats they might get damaged as the seats drop down when you fold them flat.

Factory amp is in the rear next to the sub. You need to tap into the system from back there with the RE-Q5. I am waiting until next weekend and installing my system. Going with the following stealth install (amp and processor completely hidden under the rear floor): JBL MS-8 processor to run active front stage Hybrid Audio speakers (Mix of Imagine and Legatia lines for 5.1 setup) JL HD900/5 amp JL Stealthbox with 1 10w3v3

I don't smoke anything so no cigar here Definately much easier with the right supplies and no dealer installed swirls. Saved me a few hours. One thing that is annoying is that Ford paint does have a lot of orange peel. I saw it mentioned many times before and it's true. Other than that it's great paint. Love the white platinum. Almost the same as my Mom's Acura.

I detailed my car this weekend and in the process removed the front bracket. It's a pain in the ass to remove. I had to remove the front bumper which wasn't difficult. THe hard part was poppoing out the grill part from behind without damaging anything. Once removed I had to dremel cut the metal stud of the rivets to remove the bracket. I was very careful not to scratch the front part as black shows everything. I think I might just give in an get bumper plus instead of replacing it since it needs to be painted. I don't like aftermarket paint as it's never as good as OEM process.

I had mine matched and they used 18%. It was the closest match. I did have 3M crystaline installed on the windshield too at 70%.

Well I finally had a day that I could detail my car. When I took delivery I had them just pull off the plastic and I drove away. I ONR washed it and put some wax on it until I could fully clean it. It was a perfect day as it was overcast and not too hot. I had to use a dual head 1000w halogen to inspect as there was no sun. To my enjoyment the paint was almost completely swirl/rids free. There was only a couple little marks that was barely visible. The bad part is that I did bring my Nikon dslr I forgot a memory card. I pulled them all out of my bag to clean them up and forgot to put them back. No pictures yet. Below is my workflow. - Washed entire car with ONR to remove surface dirt -Sprayed the entire car with Optimum power clean APC diluted 3:1 and slight agitated it(this stripped the wax and slight road sling) -Next I rinsed the entire car to remove all the APC with a power washer -Sprayed the entire car with Wolfs Decon gel and agitated after 5 mins(watched it bleed purple on my hood and other expected panels) -Rinsed the car after 10 mins of the Decon gel -While wet I clayed the panels where it bled the most using ONR in QD form. There was almost nothing in the clay as the decon gel got everything that was visible before! -Inspected all the paint -Polished all of the main panels 1 pass using my Flex and Blue optimum foam and Polish II. -Wiped down polish with APC to remove anything on the paint -Coated the entire exterior with Opti-coat 2.0 (Paint, Trim, Wheels, Windows) Overall the car was in great shape but the polish II with the blue foam pad worked great. Slightly enhanced the wet look and the reflections are nuts for a white car. The pearl in the white really pops. The Opti-coat was very easy to apply. I used the method posted on autopia to apply it. It involved a rubber glove over the applicator and blue shop towels over that so it doesn't absorb. Slightly touched the high spots with a plush microfiber. I am protected for years to come and don't need to really wax unless I feel like it. The Wolf's Decon gel is AMAZING. It really cleans everything! I've never seen a wheel clean so easily. It also worked perfectly on removing any fallout from shipping/environment. It's very easy to see the contamination on white paint before and after it's gone. I highly suggest your try some. Especially if you want to forget about brake dust forever.

Very nice. It's crazy how much safer you are with real DRL like the ones you have. People really see you during the day. When I get some time I will be retrofitting the stock light bars with similar lights. Either the OEM Phillips kit http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12820WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BRK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1324248093&sr=8-3 or the lightwerkz one http://shop.lightwerkz.net/LED-Daytime-Running-Light Some of the lighting forums are highly impressed with the lightwerkz kit. It's almost the same as the phillips kit and suspected to come from the same factory. Use shared components. The Phillips 8 led kit is a little more than I want to spend bit it's great. http://www.amazon.com/Philips-12824WLEDX1-DayLight-Powered-Daytime/dp/B005DX6BKW/ref=pd_sim_auto_1

If you want reliable then you want OEM ballats as this is the common failure point in the cheap China kits. With that being said you will pay around 100-175 depending on the ballasts (Matsushita or Denso are good oem ballasts) http://www.theretrofitsource.com/index.php?cPath=26 . Then you will need to get the D2s->amp connectors for the aftermarket bulbs if you are keeping the stock projectors. Dont go over 5K if you want brighter lights than halogen. The morimoto bulbs aren't bad for aftermarket but they are not as good as OEM. Although you will have less work and our stock projectors are much better than most for aftermarket kits. Safe for yourself and others on the road. Not sure what a regulator cable is but you will need to use a harness with relays. I highly suggest lightwerkz dual relay kit http://shop.lightwerkz.net/Relayed-Wiring-Harnesses. The relays are high quality and there is 2 of them so if one fails only one headlight is out and you can still drive home. Install is very easy on our cars. Remove the front bumper and there is plenty of room to mount the ballasts on the bottom of the headlight housings. I use industrial strength velcro (clean with IPA first) and a zip tie safety catch. There is a frame ground right below the headlights to ground the ballasts. Total install time is an hour with the right tools and a clean install.