autom8r

Rocco: Here are the instructions for the solenoids. Looks like the valve covers need to come off to replace the solenoids. If it's the phasers, I would look for a donor engine if he wants to keep the car. Sorry for the remark about the full synthetic. I jumped to a conclusion. I've seen a lot of sludged up motors, all preventable if full synthetic was used. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Ford Edge Valve Covers and VVT Solenoid.pdf

Rocco, Sounds like a cam shaft phaser issue. DTC P0010 or P0020, or in the neighborhood of cam shaft actuator or timing trouble codes. There are a couple of solenoids near the front of the engine that may be the culprit. Oil cleanliness, level and pressure is critical with these 'VVT' engines as oil is not only used as a lubricant, but it is now pumped up to much higher pressures and used to actuate the cam advance mechanisms. There are oil control solenoids that allow oil to enter the phasers and I seem to recall that they are accessible from outside this engine. If so, they are easily replaced, and may even be swappable, allowing you to move the noise to where the failed solenoid is (bank A vs. bank , if you want to check it that way. You may find that the oil journals and screens on the solenoids are blocked with debris. Replacement of the solenoids (there are two, one for each bank) may correct the issue and solve your dilemma. Electrically, you can also check the resistance of the solenoid's coil to see if it is open or shorted. It could even be a loose connector! Worst case, it is a spring or guide pin in one of the phasers (there are two, one for each bank), the timing cover of the engine will require removal to access and remove the phaser for repair/replacement. Not a small feat, at that point replacement of the engine from a suitable donor may be an option, since labor will probably be a wash. The front of this motor is like a Rolex watch you repair through a thin slot a few inches wide. Something's bound not to be done right or forced into position. Bear in mind that the engine went into the car, as a complete assembly, at the factory. Fortunately, all this diagnostic information is available on Google. It is a Ford 3.5L cyclone engine specifically, but this technology is found in most modern engines and the noise from a failing phaser is about the same for every engine. Good Luck! (Tell your neighbor to use full synthetic on his engines)

Rick: You will find a procedure for plug replacement detailed here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/8724-sparkplug-replacement-job-info-with-photos/ PCV may also have been discussed somewhere else in this forum too. Good luck.

Ernie: The CHT sensor is located at the top of the engine, underneath the lower intake manifold. The upper and lower intake manifolds need to be removed. Here is a excerpt from the manual. Good luck. Ford Edge CHT.pdf

Nick, Have the dealer perform a cylinder leak down check. This will test the condition of the piston rings and valve seals. If the leakage rate is excessive it will cause oil to leak into the cylinders. The rate of the oil burn will be undetectable at the exhaust. If left unattended, it will cook your catalytic converters. In the past, valve seals were susceptible to swelling or shrinking when oil types were changed. Can't say I'm familiar with the eco-boost, just a thought. Good luck.

Hard to diagnose controller failure without "faking" the input to the controller. There is only the CHT sensor. There are no thermostats in the classical sense though I suppose you could rig in a thermostat to control the fans. Both the fans on my old assembly were able to spin with power supplied to their leads. The fan module was toast. As mentioned earlier in this post, it's less expensive to replace the whole assembly than to replace just the module. I'm sure it's just a cheesy transistor that's failed in the module. I haven't had a chance to tear it down and look at it, but it seems like a great business for a kid with soldering skills that needs a part time job if that's what it is. Here is an excerpt from the shop manual showing the wiring. An output from the controller goes to the fan control module and the fan controller spools up the fans. The tow package fan module is a two channel version of the non-tow package, but the two cannot be used interchangeably. Good Luck. Ford Edge Cooling Fan Wiring.pdf

Tom: Here is a compendium of suspension information for the front-end of your Edge. Information on the struts starts at about page 24, but I wanted you to have a complete picture of what is going on. As you can see, there are a few pivot points there that may require periodic lubrication. If it is more of a groan than a creak and only when you turn the wheel especially when you're not moving, I would check the power steering fluid level in the reservoir. It's odd that the noise only happens while turning at a low speed on smooth pavement. Ford Edge Front Suspension.pdf

Tom: There are front springs and rear springs clearly marked with paint, hard to mess that up. Do you get the noise driving over flat surfaces or over bumps? Front or rear? Maybe your bushings need a little lube? The front springs are designed to seat in the "cup" at the bottom of the strut tower, the end of the spring will seat in a pocket there. The top is the same but more of a "profiled washer". Notice they are tapered and there is only one way they can be installed. Did you also align the car after the springs were installed? Mine don't creak anymore. I get occasional bushing noise that I resolve with silicone lubricant. Hope that helps.

Instructions from the 2008 service manual. I don't think that the method of attachment for the rocker panel changed from Gen1 to Gen2. Have fun! Ford Edge Rocker Panel.pdf

Chrs93 I believe this is the information you seek. May I suggest that before you embark on an endeavor of this magnitude, that you procure the service manual for your vehicle. I agree with you that it may be less difficult [and risky] to remove and replace the motor than to replace the head gaskets in situ and more than likely, less costly to do so. As a matter of diligence, I would also investigate and correct the origin of your head gasket failure, if it lies outside the engine. Undoubtedly, the engine overheated, but a blown head gasket is never the root cause of overheating. Many of these engines are equipped with the oil cooler option you mention in a different post. To retrofit a cooler onto your car should be relatively straight forward. Good luck. Ford Edge Engine Removal.pdf

+1 Easy to remove with a clay bar. Don't buff or scrub, just use the claybar. Follow with a good carnuba or other sealer. http://www.claymagic.net/

gomich, Trace the cables back to the black box from under your seat. The invision units are not factory, so an installer may have placed the box under the driver's seat or under the passenger seat, and maybe under the center console. The cables have a barrel connector somewhere along their length, I now recall that one cable is for the video signal and the other is for power. My wife's X3 has a similar system installed. The kids were messing with the head rest and pulled the cable apart. Her barrel connectors were behind the seat cover. When I purchased my system on ebay, I installed the barrel connectors behind the seatback too, there was a ton of slack cable, which I coiled inside the seat back cavity. When you find the blackbox, it will have a single power lead that serves both players. Four cables come out of the box, color coded (my memory isn't what it used to be), a pair of cables for each side. If the cable connectors are intact, the black box may be at fault, and if that's the case, a dealer visit will be necessary. Invision corporate will not help end-users. There may be fuses in the black box for each player. The blackbox has an external inline fuse on the incoming power lead. Happy hunting! (?)

gomich, Remove the seatback and check the barrel connector between the head rest and the black box. It will pull apart if the head rest is pulled up too far. Remove the two scrivets left and right in the lower corners of the seat back. Then while pushing the edges of the seat back into the back of the bolsters, slide the seat back up and unhook it from the seat. You will see the cable then. Replacement is reverse of removal. Good luck.

Yes. The CHT is located beneath the lower intake manifold. Bring the engine to temperature and use a better OBD reader to read the temperature through the PCM first. Use a non-contact IR thermometer to measure the temperature of the lower radiator hose. Compare that to the reading you're getting from the CHT through the PCM and OBD reader. The readings should be within a few degrees of each other. Look out for the fan blades! Good luck!

Rdom10: I'm not familiar with the TYC brand, but it sounds like the temperature sensor may be at fault. I would have the codes read using an OBD reader and see what the engine temperature is. If the value is out of line with what you expect or feel putting your hand around the radiator hose the sensor will require replacement. The temperature sensor is on the intake manifold, so while you have the upper intake manifold off, replace the spark plugs too. Good luck!

Tom: My springs were noisy for about a month or so after installation. Eventually, they settle in and the noise goes away. Have fun.

Stan: It's a little of both. There is a mechanical cable that goes to the transmission. The other end operates the gear selector lever on the transmission housing. There is wiring also, to tell the PCM that the lever is not in park and enable the software in the PCM to stage up and down the gear selection solenoids [i presume only if the engine is running since the PCM would know this too]. There are several solenoids in the transmission all controlled by the PCM [there are 6 forward speeds and reverse]. I would expect the solenoids to make a clicking or buzzing noise but not a whine. I've attached the relevant sections of the manual for your perusal. Good luck. Ford Edge Shifter Wiring.pdf Ford Edge Shift Lever.pdf

Stan: After cracking open the service manual last night, I discovered there is no fuel dump valve on this fuel injection system. There is a check valve in the fuel line to the engine, but no fuel return line and over pressure control. I could see a situation where the pump does not adequately pressurize the fuel line within a specific time interval causing it to run longer than normal after the engine is turned off. The design calls for the FI system to be pressurized at all times, even when the engine is off. The check valve maintains the pressure in the system after the engine and fuel pump are turned off. As to why Ford designed a system that whines at the lower threshold of a dog's hearing is beyond me. Good luck with your pursuit for the answer. My guess is that the design was "good enough" to some engineer.

My two cents..... +1 for the fuel pump. It may be running because your FI pressure switch is faulty, the fuel distribution rail serving the injectors is not maintaining pressure [leaking], or the dump valve [return to tank] may be struck open. Mine makes the same noise, though not as pronounced at the same distance. Cold air is denser than warm air so sound travels further? It is not a wheel bearing. Your car needs to be moving for it to be a wheel bearing. Good luck.

Put a fork in it. Sorry for your loss and trouble. Hopefully your back pain will subside. The taxi company's insurance will need to cough up the cash for your car in this case. Not sure if Canada is no-fault. Parts of the US are. Usually a car is totaled if the repair costs exceed 80% of the market value of the car. Good luck.

Tom: New shocks shouldn't be necessary. I put springs on mine at 90k using the stock shocks. Now at 126k, without any issues. I've attached the alignment specs (2008), the suspension will achieve these numbers so long as there is no damage to your suspension components from a prior accident or anything else that may affect the suspension geometry. You will need new camber bolts. Have fun. Ford Edge Alignment.pdf

Step, Longer bolt on top. This should help. FWIW, my son does the same thing. It's a learning process. Thankfully, he's a much better lacrosse player than a mechanic. Good Luck. Ford Edge Brake Caliper.pdf

Here you'll find them. http://www.etsy.com/listing/174344069/custom-ford-emblem-pink-with-black-2004?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_listing_promoted&utm_campaign=accessories_mid&gclid=CJvQp8Tn-rwCFYZAMgodaBEADQ Have fun!

SNL Hans and Franz "We will pump you up!"

+1 for the power steering fluid level causing the whining noise. You may find that the interior noise goes away after you top off the fluid level. If the PS reservir is full, a PS hose could also be kinked somewhere, I've seen that before too. The only downside of the repair will be the muscle atrophy in your arms without the Armstrong steering.