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Hello again, Willard. I ask people to ignore both of us and do the research for themselves. That bothers you because you need a pulpit to spew forth your agenda. You want to play an endless game of "I'm right...you are wrong" because you enjoy it. For some odd reason you long for an argument with no resolution. I will no longer engage in that childishness with you. And your above reply makes it obvious that being ignored takes away that feeling of power you tend to enjoy, when you argue with strangers over the Internet. You claim that FWD and AWD vehicles (along with ABS and a host of other goodies) are unsafe for their engineered, designed, manufactured and intended purpose (e.g. everyday driving). Your claims attempt to contradict the accepted facts of any respected expert automotive source. When asked to provide some sort of link to corroborating evidence, you simply state that your opinion should be obvious to anyone (except the automotive experts I guess). Well, that means you are presenting yourself as an expert on the subject. And since you are doing so your references, background and motives are up for discussion and inspection. And they do not stand up well. This was your decision. While it is a shame that you are in the same predicament on several other forums, it is your doing, not mine. So take the blame like a man and learn from your mistakes. I on the other hand do not claim to be an expert, only to be relaying expert information. My stance is simple. FWD and AWD cars are perfectly safe for their engineered, designed, manufactured and intended purpose (e.g everyday driving). This is information that is widely accepted as fact by the automotive world, and is readily available to anyone who cares to briefly research it (or has a shred of common sense). In addition, I clearly state to everyone that they should do the research and not to take my (or your) word for it. On the other hand, you clearly state that everyone should take your word for it with no proof, because if they don't they do not have "...minds open enough to listen" (your words). In reality, it looks as though you are the politician. Quite ironic. And what makes it even more ironic is the fact that your own personal vehicles are FWD and AWD. The very vehicles that are too dangerous for the rest of us mere mortals to drive on the road. In other words, you attempt to employ the classic politicians ploy: "Do as I say, not as I do." Again, the facts show that you are the political here. And be careful, your "Government Conspiracy" colors are beginning to shine through even more now. All you need to do is provide links to any professional automotive experts who back your automotive "theories". Something other than writers from the "Prohibition Times" and other types of Conspiracy/Religious fanatics. But you can't, because your "facts" are "refuted" by any respected automotive expert. You now have incorrect information being refuted in several threads in the Edge Forums (and the Blue Oval Forums), by several respected forum members (with just 20 posts to your credit, quite an accomplishment). You have advised people to rewire their powertrains, rewire their A/C systems etc etc, ad nauseum. Your advice is junk, will cost people unnecessary damage and repair costs if they should follow it, and in some cases is even dangerous. Provide corroborating evidence, or let others do the research for themselves and decide what is correct. The truth concerning the safety of FWD, AWD, RWD and 4WD is easy to find for anyone who wishes to. There is no "Government Conspiracy" to hide the truth. In closing I would simply add: Willard, you may be a great guy in person and in everyday life. And I am not stating that you are a bad person. That I can not judge over the Internet. I am saying that you give incorrect information, with no corroboration, which flies against all accepted expert automotive knowledge. And people need to know that following some of your advice could be costly, or even dangerous for some people. Instead of "Show me the money" we ask you to "Show us the corroboration". Recognized automotive experts of course, not "Prohibition Times" type of "conspiracy theory" drivel. And the question is asked in a rhetorical manner of course, since there are no recognized automotive experts who agree with you that FWD/AWD vehicles are unsafe for their intended use of everyday driving. Unfortunately, I feel that you will not end this yet, so be aware that my future replies will be similar to this one. And highly likely simply copied and pasted from this reply, so as not to waste any more time than minimally necessary on this dead end.

Hi everyone, well no one can say that I did not try (see post #24). So first, I encourage anyone who is not sure which individuals information is correct to do their own research. Please ignore both me and wwest and get your information from expert automotive resources. No one can argue with that advice (well not if they are sane, anyway) Next: Wow Willard, do your "arguments" actually work with some people? The answers to your replies are so simple it is laughable. But what it all boils down to is this: No corroboration or expert sources for your off the wall beliefs makes your automotive opinions concerning RWD, FWD AWD and 4WD, ABS (the FBI, CIA, etc etc) complete non-starters. Save the "No links are required when providing perfectly logical information to those with minds open enough to listen" B.S for the rest of the "Prohibition Times"/Government Conspiracy crowd. Ironically, I always tell people not to take my word (or the word of any Internet stranger), and to perform their own research, especially to verify any Internet Forum type of information. You on the other hand say that links and corroboration are not necessary, we should simply believe you. Uhh...no that is not the way the world works. At least not for intelligent individuals. However, it is a very telling indictment of your incorrect information and motives. Yes, we see your type all the time and it was obvious that you would eventually get around to continuing this BS, even though I did not debate you and attempted to politely disengage in my previous reply. I did have in the back of my mind that it would probably drive you nuts if I did not reengage in your argument fest. Boy, was that ever true. It is actually laughable that you are not the type to let people read the information, research and judge for themselves. You are the "Internet Argument Warrior" type. You will try to beat people to death with your opinion. If anyone is interested, they can simply Google "wwest" (as I did) to get a taste of how you have been essentially excommunicated from other Forums. Let's give anyone interested just a small taste of how well your opinions go over in the automotive forums world: As one individual remarked (and I quote), "1st - I've put you on my ignore list, don't waste your time responding to me. I won't engage you. 2nd - You clearly do not understand the engineering and technical aspects of these things. Your apparent recommendation to use gear oil in the FEH transaxle would void a warranty - just read the manuals on the FEH, its the wrong lubricant. 3rd - When you put out baloney I will call you on it and the more you do it the more clearly I will ID the wrong stuff in your posts as baloney. Go pass on your bum info to the Prius crowd. And a second individuals opinion of your unique automotive philosophies which seem to be shared by no recognized experts in the automotive field. Again, I quote, "Willard, Now that I am aware of the option, I have added you (you are the only one) to my ignore list. Should you see a posting by me and be tempted to respond, please know that I will not see it - so you can save your time. Consider staying with the Prius forum, as it appears you are persona non grata in the Escape/Mariner forum." So, as can be discovered by a quick Google of your screen name, you are already an unwelcome presence on several automotive forums. Fine work. You provide junk answers, twisted stats and junk science (like your ABS argument). They are the types of stats that only work for the lowest common denominator. Life is too short to waste debating Internet Warriors such as yourself. Amazingly enough, this type of behavior is usually demonstrated by those with much less life experience than a 68 years old (such as yourself). Perhaps the spare time of retirement was not a good idea for you. Too much time to waste attempting to win Internet arguments and aggravate strangers. So instead of debating you and wasting time that I can not get back, we will leave it up to everyone else here to check out the information provided and your Internet references. Then everyone can decide for themselves who is providing the correct, verifiable information. Information that is backed by the opinions of any expert automotive source. I have been helping people here and on the other Blue Oval Forums for some time now. So my reputation for providing accurate information is a known commodity. You on the other hand, besides having quite a questionable reputation elsewhere, have already caused aggravation on some of the other Blue Oval Forums. You have even been previously admonished by other respected Blue Oval forum members (e.g. your ridiculous "SCAM" posts). Quite an early track record. As I stated in an earlier reply, "Let's just drop it. It's a double dead end (I know one when I see it and hope you do too)." While I was intelligent enough to see the writing on the wall, you are not. I will not debate well known automotive facts and information with a Professional Internet Arguer with too much time on his hands. Maybe a part time job would be a good idea, instead of retirement? Volunteer work even? Something to get you off the Internet. I still see the dead end concerning your type and others will too. You will get few things right once in a while, but you will also provide some very incorrect, misleading and even dangerous information to the gullible and innocently uninformed. So again, I encourage anyone who is not sure which individuals information is correct to do their own research. Please ignore both me and wwest, and get your information from expert automotive resources. Good luck, Willard.

Hi wwest. :D That is fantastic. Then we can move on to helping others, concerning a new subject. :hyper: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi wwest. :D To politely address your statements concerns, as you politely did mine (and I appreciate that, as I did not know what to expect). My time is short at the moment, so I will try to be brief: Let mention first that this is really getting off course from the original question posted by dadrett. No one is going to change their car or driving habits based on what you or I say here. We are spitting in the wind. So, to your comments concerning my comments : 1 - "SLAMMING....TOO LOW... Why do you feel it necessary to quote such EXTREME conditions...??" Okay, remove the word slam, and insert "shift", making it "shifting a car into a too low gear at higher speeds in a low traction condition...". Statement no longer "extreme" and still correct. So for future reference, nitpicking or word parsing is futile, okay? I will not do it to you, if you do not do it to me :grouphug: 2 - The new VW FWD stick shift uses a TC technique that will simply "up-rev" the engine to match roadspeed if one of the driven wheels develops slippage due to the use of too much engine compression braking. We ALL know, or at least should know, that a simple release of pressure on the gas pedal in the wrong conditions can quickly result in loss of directional control, FWD or RWD. Almost all modern SelectShift type transmissions match revs. And a simple release of pressure will not cause any problems for any driver unless they are driving too fast for the road conditions. You neglect to mention that little factoid. In addition, you forgot to bring up all of the "wrong conditions" dangers of RWD (i.e the sheer joy of all the RWD oversteer dangers inherent in throttle applications in a multitude of road and driving conditions). All of which are essentially absent in FWD vehicles. Bottom line, in on-road driving conditions (non-race course), FWD and AWD are comparatively "idiot proof" compared to a RWD car. Hey, given my preferences, I prefer a nice high-powered RWD car. But I will not skew the information I provide to fit my preferences. And those who know me here also know that. 3 - "The advantage goes to RWD simply because directional control can still be maintained." An average or below average driver (covers the majority of drivers on the road) with a RWD car in any sort or slippery conditions is more prone to throttle or braking induced oversteer than any FWD vehicle driver. Even one of below average skills. This is common knowledge. Advantage really does go to FWD. Again, I prefer a nice high-powered RWD car. But I will not skew the information I provide to fit my preferences. 4 - "Yes, YES..." Yes to what? Not sure what you are replying to there. All cars on the road today are unsafe? 5 - "So, how many people out there in the general public are aware that vehicles with ABS are slightly less safe then those without...?? Vehicles with ABS are safer than non-ABS vehicles. Drivers who do not know how to drive are the problem. They either do not fully apply the brakes, or neglect to steer out of harms way. I had a friend who insisted that when the brake pedal pulsed in his ABS equipped car, that meant he was supposed to let up and pump the brakes. Took a long time and quite a bit of convincing to get him to understand otherwise. There is no underestimating the ignorance of some people concerning certain subjects. And he is my friend, an intelligent individual otherwise! But it says something about the lack of automotive knowledge of the average driver nowadays 6 - "So, other than VSC activation or judious application of the rear implimented e-brake, what is your method for recovering from the most dangerous handling tendency of FWD (understear/plowing)...??" Yes, I know the answer to the quiz. And let's be realistic, even if I did not know the answer, a quick Google would have given me a wonderful answer to copy and paste here. I could pose the same question to you concerning RWD and throttle and/or steering induced oversteer in dry and inclement road conditions. But as I said earlier, not going to get into long winded treatises on driving theory and other aspects of this subject. Again, just quick replies to the basics. May have missed a point or two (for lack of time, not a valid reply), and misspelled a few words in my haste, but have other more pressing things to do for now. As I often say to people who make claims as to their opinion on a subject that seems to be so close to their hearts (and I clearly stated in my previous reply to dadrett concerning this subject): Please simply provide a link to some professional, verifiable website or source corroborating your point of view on the subject. Especially when it is the polar opposite from the accepted facts contained on or from any professional automotive source. Then we will have something more to go on than just one persons word. And one last time, I prefer a nice high-powered RWD car. But I will not skew the information I provide to fit my preferences. I always have an open mind. But really, as you can see neither of us is going to be short on answers. So why don't we move on to simply helping other people and leave the personal agendas to someone else? And actually, as I also mentioned above this all has very little to do with the OP's (dadrett) original question. I know you think it does strongly relate, since this seems to be a subject close to your heart. But if you take a step away and look at it in an unbiased manner, I think you will see that we are really off course. Let's just drop it. It's a double dead end (I know one when I see it and hope you do too). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dadrett. :D I will attempt to make the facts clear while trying to remain as sensitive to wwest's feelings possible, considering the circumstances. To begin, his information is incorrect. And the fact that it is incorrect can be easily verified with some research, or just some plain old common sense. The fact that no reliable automotive source will back this opinion is a good start. Sure, slamming a car into a too low gear at higher speeds in a low traction condition can be dangerous whether you are in a RWD, FWD AWD or 4WD vehicle. However, that is not what we are discussing here. So his information is incorrect and patently misleading for the sake of this discussion. No need to bring up a personal agenda where it is not applicable. So to save some research, lets use the common sense approach for a moment: If we are to accept his theory/opinion, are we to assume that most of the cars on the road today are unsafe? And to top it off, there would need to be a vast conspiracy to hide this information from the public, since it surely is not information that can be gathered from any reliable automotive source. It has not even been reported by the general press, which jumps on any unreliable and sensationalistic story possible? In fact, for the average driver on the road, a RWD vehicle will have the most dangerous handling tendencies (oversteer) in power on driving on both dry and especially wet, slippery, snowy, and icy conditions. This is common automotive knowledge. This is an excellent lesson on the use of the Internet (especially Internet forums of a public nature) to gather information. Forums like this will pool all sorts of people, information and opinions. Some are accurate/reliable and some are not. So they must be taken with a grain of salt. And they need to be followed up with some personal research of expert sites (not another public forum). I will never ask someone to believe my point of view in an unquestioning manner. So always beware those who insist that you believe them without some sort of corroborating evidence and research. Especially if they follow up with a lot of automotive double talk and gobbledygook. Dadrett, do not take my word for it. I am not going to post a long winded reply full of automotive doublespeak (which by viewing past posts is what I have a feeling someone else may do ). If you simply Google AWD, FWD, RWD, 4WD etc, all of the answers are there. Another hint: You can often get a good handle on where someone is coming from (and how accurate their information is) by viewing their past posts on this and other Blue Oval Forums. Some people seem to enjoy posting false information just to stir things up. Gives them a thrill. While the jury is still out on whether wwest is this type of individual, the early returns make some of us wonder. Your vehicle is safe, whether FWD, RWD AWD or 4WD. And to top it all off, a bit of research shows that wwest (despite his anti-FWD/AWD personal agenda) drives the very type of vehicles he claims are unsafe. :shades: And the answer we gave you in earlier replies were correct and really did settle the subject. I have no bias towards any drive configuration. I have owned many RWD and FWD vehicles over the years. I have never had a need to own AWD or 4WD vehicles, although I have driven many miles in those types of vehicles and can certainly understand the need some people would have for them. The bottom line is that all are safe when driven properly, and all are unsafe when driven improperly. No personal agenda here. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Perhaps I read the meaning of your questions incorrectly. Is it really a case of you knowing all of this and simply egging him on for the fun of it?

Hi jscavo. :D Okay, now I am confused (even more). Two things. First, getting answers is like puling teeth here. As I asked in my previous replies, how have you determined the Factory Invoice Price? Did you see the copy of the Factory Invoice or did the Dealer simply tell and/or give you handwritten figures? Do you have an unaltered copy of the Factory Invoice in your possession? Until we know the answer to those questions concerning where you got the Invoice Price (prices) from, we can not assume that you have the correct Factory Invoice Price. And if you do not have the correct Factory Invoice Price, all of our pricing assumptions are worthless. You need to understand that people often give us incorrect pricing information from unreliable sources, believing it to be correct. This is why we need to know where you got the Invoice Price information from. Also, in your earlier posts you stated that the Factory Invoice Price was $34,975. Now you state that it is $34,305. Which is the correct number? We need to know the Factory Invoice Price including the Destination/Delivery and Fuel charges. Again, unless you just want a coin flip answer, "Heads it's a good price, tails it's not", you need to supply answers to all of the questions asked. If you would like assistance, please try to ease my confusion. :beerchug:

Hi jscalvo. :D Please believe that I am not trying to give you a hard time. I am trying to help you. However, you answered questions that were not asked and did not answer the two questions I did ask (how many miles are on it and did you actually see the Factory Invoice or just figures the Dealer told you?). Even a new car has miles on it, and the number can make a difference in the price negotiations. You had already provided the MSRP and Incentive totals, and the Sales Tax rate is irrelevant for price negotiations. If someone wants good advice, they need to provide the information asked for. If all you want is wild guesses, I will leave that up to others to give you wild guesses and coin flips. Again, bottom line is if you saw the actual Factory Invoice and the Invoice Price was $34,975, I would try to negotiate the starting price to $35,200 (not $35,475). If you did not see the actual Factory Invoice, then we do not know for sure that the Invoice Price is $34,975. I for one would certainly not take the Salesman's word for it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jscavo. :D Again, sparse information. How many miles are on this MKX? Less than 100 or does it have 500-600 or more demo miles on it? If there are very few miles on it and the true Factory Invoice price is actually $34,975, I would be trying to get the pre-Incentive price down to $35,200. Giving you a purchase price before TT&L of $30.450. More miles on it? I would ask for a larger discount. But again, we can not be sure that is the actual Factory Invoice Price or a false price the Dealer showed you. Either way, in this economy, I would consider the starting figure of $35,475 too high. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D Just an interesting side note concerning accident statements, then I promise jimmc that I will stop hijacking his bumper protector thread. Having a certain familiarity with accident reconstruction and reports, this is an interesting point you brought up. The guilty/at-fault party in an accident almost always invariably states that "I did not see you" to the other driver and "I did not see them" to the Police. But if you think about it, whether they are telling the truth or lying, what else can they say? Either they really did not see you (driver inattention), or they did see you and intentionally drove in a negligent/reckless manner that caused an accident. So, the lesser of the two evils is always to say "I never even saw you". In the end, "I never even saw you" is the psychological equivalent of trying to say, that "It wasn't my fault". But of course, either way it is their fault. If they did not see you, they were driving in an inattentive/unsafe manner and not paying attention to the road. If they did see you but continued on the same course, it can technically be argued that they intentionally caused an accident. The best reply I ever heard by a cop to a woman who kept insisting that "I did not see them" and "I swear they weren't there" over and over and over (as though if she said it enough times it would not be her fault for running into someone) was this: "Ma'am, I heard you the first time, so you can stop repeating that now. Whether you saw them or not, they were here, or else I would not have to be here now. However, since you feel so strongly about it, I will certainly note in my report that you repeatedly told me you were not paying attention to nor looking at the oncoming traffic." The look on her face was priceless. She blurted out "That isn't what I meant, I meant it was not my fault!" Then she realized how foolish she sounded and did not say another word. And just a quick mention on the saving bulb life/gas question. Yes, not having DRL's enabled may certainly extend bulb life. Probably not by a significant amount. Highly doubtful that DRL's use much fuel. The charging system on a car more than makes up for any added electrical use. In the end, for those who live in non-DRL States, it comes down to personal preference. My preference? I do not care for them and would not have them on my car by choice. But that is simply my own opinion. Sorry jimmc, back to you. Anyway, good luck igcitng. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D Daytime running lights can be enabled/disabled by the Dealership Service Department. Due to the fact that not every drive wants/needs DRL's, they are only enabled from the factory on vehicles being sold in a State (or country, like Canada) that requires them. So if an Edge owner really wants them, they can have the Dealer enable them. Hope this information helps you correct one of your concerns. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - If your Dealer states that they can not perform this service, find a more competent Dealership.

Hi Richard. :D The X-Plan gives a pre-set price, guaranteed by Ford. However, not all Dealers are completely honest, so you need to be your ow policeman. To get the correct X-Plan Price, you do the following: If a Dealer is willing to sell a vehicle on the X-Plan (it is up to Dealer discretion) they are required by Ford, to show you the Factory Invoice (and give you a copy). On that Factory Invoice is a box labeled "X-Plan". In that box is the X-Plan Price. So, when yo go to the Dealership, tell them you are interested in purchasing on the X-Plan and ask for your copy of the Factory Invoice. Do not accept altered or handwritten copies or numbers. That price in the X-Plan box is your X-Plan Price before any Incentives are deducted and before Tax, Title and Registration are added. The Dealer may also add a $75 maximum "Documentation Fee". That is the only Dealer added fee allowed. Absolutely no other Dealer Fees or Charges. No exceptions. So in the end, your Purchase Contract figures should look something like this: The Initial X-Plan Price (it is listed on the Factory Invoice, in a box labeled "X-Plan Price", which the Dealer is required to show you) + Any Dealer installed options or Extended Service Plan (agreed upon by you) = Subtotal + State and Local Sales Taxes = Subtotal - Any Incentives and Rebates you qualify for = Subtotal + a $75 maximum "Documentation Fee" = Subtotal + Title and Registration = Your Final X-Plan Price And again, remember that you must be your own policeman. Unfortunately in direct experience helping friends and family with AXZ-Plan purchases over the years, the vast majority of Dealership salespeople will try to pull one over on the customer. In fact, in over 40 AXZ-Plan sales I have helped my family and friends with, only three times has the salesman not tried to "accidentally" overcharge (and two of those three were the same honest salesperson). In the hundreds of Plan sales we have assisted with here, it is pretty much the same story. There are good Dealers out there, but they are sometimes hard to find. So be on your toes! Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcing. :D I do not have the wiper blade specs handy at the moment. To save yourself some time, it may be quicker to take a measuring tape and measure the length of the blades on your Edge. Usually (but not always) the left and right blades are two different size due to the area they need to clear. Also, keep in mind that the wiper blades actual length will often be slightly shorter than the "Part #" size. So a 20" blade will often measure approximately 19.5". A 19" blade may measure 18.5", etc etc. So if you measure them yourself, round up. As far as brands to use? There will be no end to the discussion on that. I use the Motorcraft "Premium Wear Indicator Wiper Blades". There are usually coupons available on the Ford Fleet or Ford Genuine Parts and Service" websites for $19.99 a pair, installed. I just purchase with the coupon and install them myself. They have always performed well for me and I would recommend them. Bottom line is that any name brand, upper level wiper blade will usually be a quality blade. Let's face it, it is not rocket science, it is simply a type of squeegee. It all comes down to personal preference and experience. Concerning your factory blades never working from day one: Again, a wiper blade is a basic and simple device. If it is not clearing the windshield properly when new, it normally means that the wiper blade/windshield has some type of substance on it which is hindering the cleaning ability of the wiper blade. In that case, the Owners Manual explains what can be used to clean the wiper blade/windshield to help restore proper function. Here is a copy and paste from the Owners Manual: WINDOWS AND WIPER BLADES The windshield, rear and side windows and the wiper blades should be cleaned regularly. If the wipers do not wipe properly, substances on the vehicle’s glass or the wiper blades may be the cause. These may include hot wax treatments used by commercial car washes, water repellent coatings, tree sap, or other organic contamination; these contaminants may cause squeaking or chatter noise from the blades, and streaking and smearing of the windshield. To clean these items, follow these tips: • The windshield, rear windows and side windows may be cleaned with a non-abrasive cleaner such as Motorcraft Ultra-Clear Spray Glass Cleaner (ZC-23), available from your authorized dealer. • The wiper blades can be cleaned with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol or Motorcraft Premium Windshield Washer Concentrate (ZC-32-A), available from your authorized dealer. This washer fluid contains special solution in addition to alcohol which helps to remove the hot wax deposited on the wiper blade and windshield from automated car wash facilities. Be sure to replace wiper blades when they appear worn or do not function properly. • Do not use abrasives, as they may cause scratches. • Do not use fuel, kerosene, or paint thinner to clean any parts. If you cannot remove those streaks after cleaning with the glass cleaner or if the wipers chatter and move in a jerky motion, clean the outer surface of the windshield and the wiper blades using a sponge or soft cloth with a neutral detergent or mild-abrasive cleaning solution. After cleaning, rinse the windshield and wiper blades with clean water. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse the windshield with water. Do not use sharp objects, such as a razor blade, to clean the inside of the rear window or to remove decals, as it may cause damage to the rear window defroster’s heated grid lines. If the above maintenance does not work, then it is likely time for new wiper blades. In addition, according to when your Edge was produced and when you purchased (I believe you purchased about 3 months ago?), your Edge could have been sitting on the lot for some time before you purchased it. Wiper blades (the rubber portion) will age and lose efficiency simply from sitting in the sun and elements. In general, it is recommended that wiper blades be replaced every 6 months. Of course, actual lifespan will vary from case to case, but that is a good rule of thumb to start with. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Taylor. :D While the Edge system is good (for an OEM system), anyone who is discriminating in their listening habits will always be able to hear a noticeable improvement with good quality replacement speakers. It simply comes down to personal preference. If you are willing to spend the money and the time to replace them yourself, or spend the money to have someone else replace them for you, then you will probably like what you hear. If your are reasonably handy with tools, it is a simple modification. Excellent aftermarket speakers and wiring harnesses (so there is no cutting/splicing of wires necessary) are readily available. And if you do a site search, there are many previous threads with aftermarket speaker recommendations and even "How-to's" concerning the subject of speaker replacement. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Just another point of view: If you check the post dates, you will see that this thread had been dead since 11/22/08. This thread is almost 7 months old, and "jsuacier" (the original poster), has never been back since he first posted on 11/21/08. So I think any answers at this point are futile. Nobody is home. Of course if anyone still wants to reply, far be it from me to stop them. I just wanted to point out that nobody is home here. For future members wondering about where to find the Factory Code: Check for the Factory supplied Code Card. If you do not have the card, check your passenger compartment fuse box. If it is not there, ask your Dealer to provide it to you. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jaak. :D Yes, I figured it slipped by while you were on "automatic pilot" when you wrote that. Hey, it happens to all of us at one time or another! :grouphug: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rich11. :D Just to add to some of Jaak's good advice: All the major car care product manufacturers (Meguiar's, Mother's etc) make very good interior upholstery cleaners. I am partial to Meguiar's, but all are good. You can purchase these products at your local Auto Parts store or even the automotive section of your local KMart, Walmart, etc. Even a good household upholstery cleaner (Woolite, etc) will do a fine job. I find the best type to be the spray on foams, which you then work in with a wet sponge, let dry and then vacuum. Simple to use. After cleaning them up well, you may want to think about "Scotchguarding" the seats. You can purchase the Scotchguard aerosol yourself and do it for a fraction of the cost of having it "professionally" applied. Just one point I would add to JAAK's good advice, since he may not have noticed that you have the cloth seats: Do do not apply a leather cleaner/conditioner to cloth seats. It will stain them. For excellent car care tips, including the interior, see the "How-to" and "FAQ" sections of these websites: LINK: Meguiar's LINK; Autopia LINK: Mother's Of course, there are many other good websites, but at least you have place to start. Also, you obviously do not need to purchase from those websites, just use their knowledge base information to help educate yourself concerning car care tips. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kanatronic. :D First, I do not think you will be disappointed when you see the quality and custom fit of the Covercraft Heat Shield model. Even the case/cover is high quality. I am very picky, have it myself, and would never recommend it to anyone else if I thought it was not a quality piece of equipment. Second, when I ordered mine (admittedly that was a over a year and a half ago) shipping was free from CarCoverDepot. That was part of what made them the most inexpensive overall. I hate to ask a silly question, but are you sure you had to pay for shipping? Anyway, when you get yours please let me know how you like it. Remember, the old saying is true that "You get what you pay for". I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kanatronic. :D Found it. I purchased mine from CarCoverDepot.com. I searched CoverCrafts their online sellers, and at the time they had the best price, including shipping, for the Heat Shield Sunshade and case. Here is a link: LINK: Car Cover Depot I have the UVS100 Heat Shield. I looked it up quickly and it seems the Part# for the Ford Edge UVS Heat Shield is UV11011. You can also use the tools on the website to look it up for yourself. If you would like it, here is the link for Covercraft: LINK: Covercraft You can check their other online Retailers for a better price, if you like. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kanatronic. :D I have a custom fit one for my MKZ, manufactured by CoverCraft (they make top quality Car Covers, Sun Shades and other auto accessories). I know that CoverCraft makes one for almost all make/model vehicles. But they do not sell directly to the public. I will check my paperwork and post back with the name of the company I purchased from. It is the foldable, accordion type, but not cheap. Also not the flimsy Kmart, Walmart type. This is a stiff, custom made piece, with less than an inch of space on the top and sides when placed against the windshield. If I recall, it was approximately $40 with the storage case. I'll get back to you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Grupet. :D No, as akirby correctly stated, the Dealer is simply trying to get you in sooner by using a 3,000 maintenance schedule (what the maintenance schedule used to be some years ago). For the gullible who do not read their Owner Guides and Maintenance Schedules, they can make a lot more money. When you Leased your Edge, you were given an Owners Manual, a Maintenance Guide Booklet and a Warranty Guide booklet. Just follow the scheduled maintenance listed in the Maintenance Guide Booklet. That will be 6 months/7,500 miles for "Normal Service" (as you already knew), or 6 months/5,000 miles for "Severe Duty". "Severe Duty" is considered any vehicle used for towing and other particular driving circumstances. Check the Guide for the specifics. There are other things that need servicing (tire rotations etc), so be sure to check the Guide to be sure that all scheduled maintenance is performed on time. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jscavo. :D Far too little information to give any sort of accurate answer. An Edge Limited can still very in options and content. As you can see by the many pages of this particular thread, over the Internet you will get some inaccurate answers and guesses, but do you really want to take the word of Internet strangers (who will make wild guesses with limited information) to make a decision on such an important purchase? Your best course of action is to determine the Factory Invoice Price of your particular Edge. To do this, go to a site like Edmunds.com or Kbb.com and use their online tools to determine the Factory Invoice Price of an Edge Limited with the exact same options and equipment as the one you are looking at. Add about $300 to that figure and you will have a good approximate starting point for negotiations. Of course, then you will still be entitled to any Incentives which you qualify for. Always negotiate the price before Incentives are deducted. They come from Ford, and you are entitled to them no matter what the negotiated price is with your Dealer. The Dealer will try and include Incentives in the negotiations. Do not fall for that trick. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tygr. :D All modern cars have "Event Data Recorders", although according to manufacturer they may go by a different name. In general, and again according to manufacturer, they record anywhere from approximately the last 60 seconds of drive time, to approximately 30 minutes. Before you wrap your car (or anything else) in tin foil, keep in mind that the information can only be accessed by someone who has access to the OBD port in your car. It is not as though they can be read over the open road by a cop/the FBI/the CIA/Aliens sitting on the side of the road. In my opinion, there are much bigger things to worry about in life, so I would not let it keep you up at night. Of course, that is simply my opinion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Amy. :D Your best course of action would be to call the Dealership, let them know that your Insurance Company was not able to verify the VIN you were given, and ask them to double check the VIN. Assuming the vehicle has been produced, odds are they accidentally gave you an incorrect VIN. Or you accidentally wrote it down incorrectly, etc. Either way, calling the Dealership for verification would be the thing to do. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi zamboyz. :D Yes, essentially they all will. If you want the A/C (or heat) to come on when you remote start, you simply leave the A/C (or heat) on when you turn the car off and get out beforehand. Then when the car is remote started, the A/C (or heat) will turn on, just as it normally would if you started the car while in it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi baum. :D That may be good news. However, two things I would be sure to check before purchasing: First, has anyone actually installed that Metra piece, and can they vouch for it working with absolutely no loss of functionality? I have not yet heard of anyone using it successfully. Second, there were changes to the Sound systems and the SYNC system on 2009 and 2010 models. If you notice, Metra states that piece is currently only valid for 2008 models, and SteveO has a 2009 model. It may not be compatible with the new system changes. Or perhaps they simply have not updated their information yet. It would be a good idea for anyone interested to find the answer before purchasing. I am not saying it definitely doesn't work, just stating that some research should be performed by anyone interested first, to be sure it is compatible. After all, while they do allow returns for refunds, they also charge a 15% "restocking fee" on those returns. Plus the possible loss of shipping charges both ways. If anyone has further information, please let us know. Good luck. :beerchug: