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Hi mtemplett. :D The answer is still yes. You asked this same question yesterday in the Ford Edge Sport forum and it was answered there. There is no change in the headlamp size or shape. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mtemplet. :D Yes. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Orion. :D It would seem that is a byproduct of reversing them. They were designed to be inserted the correct way, and inserting them backwards can cause them to bind. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jason. :D I would highly recommend that you don't wait and you immediately take your Edge in for Service. Anytime you hear "horrific noise" coming from your car (and it is not due to you beating an unruly child) , you should bring your car in for service ASAP. The same advice goes for "a metal on metal grinding noise". According to what the problem is, driving it further could cause major damage to your Edge. To answer your PTU fluid question: Loss of the PTU fluid can lead to catastrophic failure of the unit. We cannot guess as to whether that is your problem, but immediate service is the best course. You have Bumper to Bumper Warranty Coverage for 3 years/36,000 miles and Powertrain Warranty coverage for 5 years/60.000 miles. Also, to check for leaks on your dirt driveway, you could put a large sheet of cardboard, plywood or plastic under the engine/transmission area overnight, then check it for fluid leaks in the morning. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bluetexan. :D HID lighting is not available from the Factory on the MKX. It is not a current option or upgrade. We can not be sure exactly what you are seeing under your headlights, but it is not HID ballasts. Perhaps it is the motors for the adaptive lighting. As far as HID headlights in an MKX, the only current option would be to add one of the aftermarket HID kits that some Edge and MKX owners have added. Just keep in mind for informational purposes, that all aftermarket HID kits are illegal for on-road use in the US (in the low beam position). I am not telling you not to get them, just providing the information, in case you care and did not know. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rhino. :D Yes, relatively common problem in all makes and models of vehicles. Well, not common, but it does happen. Easy fix. Take it in for service. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kevin. :D According to the Owners manual, there is a "Navigation Supplement". Ask your Dealer for a copy. You can also check the Genuine Ford Parts and Service website to see if it can be downloaded: LINK: Genuine Ford Parts and Service Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jamers1. :D I just wanted to say thank you. Very nice of you to even make the offer. If I had the Navigation Unit, I would certainly take you up on it. Thanks again, and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D Just to back up what DJ Nap has stated. First, just like aftermarket HID kits, any type of aftermarket bulb (including LED) that is not DOT approved for on-road use is not street legal in the low beam position. Therefore only Factory installed HID's and LED's are legal in the low beam position. That is why, just like aftermarket HID kits, these LED bulbs are illegal for on-road use in the low beam position. However, while it is not always a good idea, you can use them in the fog light or high beam position. So to try and explain it simply: Factory HID headlamps (like in my MKZ and many other cars) = Legal. Aftermarket HID headlamp low beam kits/bulbs = Illegal. Factory LED headlamps in the Lexus LS400 Hybrid = Legal. Aftermarket LED low beam bulbs = Illegal. Also, I checked the Lexus and Audi websites. While the Lexus LS400 Hybrid does use LED headlamp units, it seems the Audi A-8 does not. The Audi A-8 (all models) headlamp units are listed as Bi-Xenon units. And I checked the options and could find no LED headlamp option. So unless I missed something, the Audi does not have the LED headlamps. And while it would be too difficult to explain completely here, a headlamp units reflectors and lenses must be specifically designed for the type of bulb being used. A Halogen bulb puts out light in a different pattern than an old incandescent type bulb. An HID bulb puts out light differently than a Halogen bulb. A Bi-Xenon bulb puts out light differently than a regular HID bulb. And LED bulbs put out light differently than any of them. Therefore, if the reflectors and lenses are not specifically designed for an LED bulb, the light will not be dispersed correctly. Whether that means there will not be enough light cast forward for the driver to see properly, or there will be so much scattered light that it will blind oncoming drivers, we cannot say without further information. That is why we depend on the DOT approval to be sure that lights and bulbs work correctly. And again, these bulbs are not DOT approved for low beam use (sorry for the repetition). That is why there are DOT regulations that must be adhered to for street legal and approved lighting. The rules are not in place to piss us off, they are in place to protect us from unscrupulous sellers of inferior equipment, or sellers looking to make a quick buck by selling something that is not made for the applications they may be advertising. These aftermarket type bulbs are not DOT approved for on road, low beam position usage. That is why they either state "Only for use in the fog and/or high beam position", "Not legal for on road use", "Intended only for show car or off road use", etc etc. It is even obvious from looking at the pictures they include of the LED bulb that the light dispersal will be nothing like a Halogen or even HID bulb. That is why the website specifically mentions (I quote): "FOR SAFTY: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED USE FOR FOG LIGHT OR HIGH BEAM ONLY." This is because they are illegal for on road use in the low beam position. As usual, I am not trying to tell anyone what to do with their own vehicles. We are all adults and are free to choose what we wish to do, what we to purchase. and how we wish to act. I am simply supplying relevant and verifiable information for anyone interested. In this way they can make an informed decision. Hope this information helps. Whatever anyone decides to do, good luck. :beerchug:

HI Blazedup. :D The legend goes like this: When the EDGE/MKX were first going through design/production, an Assembly Line Worker saw how big the Vista Roof was and commented, "That is one Big Ass Moon Roof"! The nickname stuck. Officially (on the Window Sticker etc), it is called the "Vista Roof". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi BlazedUp. :D I get my information from the experts, so with all due respect, your information is inaccurate. As I correctly stated, the paint on a brand new car from the factory is cured before the car even gets to the end of the assembly line. Only a freshly painted car from a collision/body shop should not be waxed for at least 30 days, since the painting and curing process is different than factory paint jobs. This information is available in any Car Care and Detailing Forum. In fact, just to avoid further debate, here is a direct quote from the Meguiar's forum: 10. How soon can I wax my new car? A new car with a factory paint job can be waxed the moment it is rolled out of the manufacturing plant. Cars that have factory paint jobs are cured at much higher temperatures, sometimes as high as 300 degrees in special baking ovens. At a factory level, the car goes through the painting and baking process without any of the rubber, plastic, and cloth components installed. This is why they can expose the car and it's fresh paint to such high temperatures. These high temperatures and special paints used at the factory level insures the paint is fully cured by the time the car is completely assembled. After-market paint finishes however, are cured at a much lower temperature to ensure the method of baking or heating the paint doesn't melt non-metal components such as wiring and vinyl. For this reason, it's best to follow the specific paint manufactures recommendations for care and maintenance of fresh paint. Most paint manufactures that supply paint to the refinish industry recommend that you allow anywhere from 30 to 90 days curing time after the paint is applied before you apply the first application of wax. To maintain your cars fresh paint during the recommended curing time you can safely use any of the below Meguiar's pure polishes, which are not only safe for fresh paint but help to enhance the curing process while making your paint look it's absolute best. And here is the link to the page, so there can be no doubt that it is legitimate: LINK: Meguiar's FAQ's And before anyone states that this is only one website, the exact same information/advice can be found by going to any other well known Car Care Forum, or Googling "waxing a new car". Hope this information helps to straighten out any confusion about the subject. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jeff. :D You have been told a mixture of truth and fiction. First, the advice that "black paint doesn't hide damage as well" is correct. However, whoever told you that it "never quite cures to a super hard finish" was incorrect. Let's deal with the false one quickly. The black paint on any vehicle is already fully hardened and cured before it ever leaves the factory. The finish is as hard and cured as any other color. But since black shows scratches easier (due to it's dark mirror like finish) some people mistakenly think it is because the paint is "softer". That is not true. It is the dark color that shows scratches more readily. Simple as that. As far as hiding "damage": Due to the reflective finish (like a dark mirror) of black automotive paint, it shows scratches and dirt much more apparently than lighter colors. Scratches on cars show up as light colored marks, so they show easier on a black car. If you wash and wax a black car, within hours you will be able to see the fine layer of dust already settling on it. According to where you live, in the summertime you will see the layer of green pollen form on your car within hours after you wash and wax it. The fact that the new black paints on many Fords is now a "Metallic Black Clearcoat" (like the "Tuxedo Black Metallic Clearcoat"), as opposed to a simple "Black Clearcoat" (with no metallic flakes), may help to break up that mirror like finish and hide dust a little better. I have not seen enough of them yet to be abloe to develop an opinion. No car paint color looks better or more elegant than black when it is clean (that is why expensive limousines are almost always black). But you have to be willing to do the necessary work to keep it clean. Anyone who does not know how to properly wash and detail a car and is not willing to learn how should purchase another color (unless they do not care that much about how their car looks). And in case you were wondering, since 1981 at least one of my cars have always been black. So I do speak from experience. I am a fanatic about car care, so I keep my cars very clean and waxed. As far as the price you received: Since you do not say, we have no idea how much Incentive and Rebate Cash that price includes, if it is the price before or after all Taxes, Fees and Charges, have been added in, etc etc. For example, Incentives and Rebates vary by region. Therefore, if that price includes only $2,000 of Incentive Cash, it is a pretty good price. However, if that price includes $5,000-$6,000 of Incentive Cash, it is not a very good price. As you can see, without a lot more information there is no way for anyone to give an accurate answer as to how good a price it is or is not. Anyone who says otherwise is simply flipping a coin and taking a guess. Essentially it comes down to this: If you are happy with the price, it is good. If you think it is a bit high, you should do some more negotiating. Have you priced equivalent vehicles at more than one Dealership? That is what I would recommend. Don't forget to come back and show us some pictures once you decide on a color! Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi hellerjw. :D No, have not experienced it. First, check your glove compartment and the "map/storage compartment" on the front passenger door to see if anything stored in those two areas may be bouncing back and forth during acceleration/low speed driving. Also, check the passenger side sunvisor to see if it is clipped in place. If it's not properly fastened, it could also be a cause of the type of noise you are experiencing (this has happened to others in the past, as noise travels in deceiving/unexpected ways). If there is nothing in those three spots that is causing the noise, this would be my next recommendation (especially since you stated it is driving you crazy): Since you are experiencing a problem/concern, make a service appointment and let your Dealerships Service Department diagnose and correct it while you are still under Warranty. Let us know what you find. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi hellerjw. :D No, have not experienced it. First, check your glove compartment and the "map/storage compartment" on the front passenger door to see if anything stored in those two areas may be bouncing back and forth during acceleration/low speed driving. Also, check the passenger side sunvisor to see if it is clipped in place. If it's not properly fastened, it could also be a cause of the type of noise you are experiencing (this has happened to others in the past). If there is nothing in those three spots that is causing the noise, this would be my next recommendation (especially since you stated it is driving you crazy): Since you are experiencing a problem/concern, make a service appointment and let your Dealerships Service Department diagnose and correct it while you are still under Warranty. Let us know what you find. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jonesdz. :D If it is the fuel pump making the ringing noise, the Dealer will check to see if it is working properly. If it is working properly, within spec, and the noise is not apparent to them, they will most likely not do anything at this point, unless it gets worse (just being honest). If the noise is being caused by the fuel pump and the fuel pump is defective, it will be replaced. As stated earlier, a certain amount of fuel pump noise is normal, since it is a high pressure pump. What needs to be determined is what the cause of your noise is. If it is the fuel pump, it then must be determined whether the noise is normal or abnormal. If I could make a suggestion: Ask for the keys to two or three other Edges that are on the Dealer lot, start them up and see if you hear the same noise. If you do, the noise is likely normal. If you do not, point it out to the Service Writer for proof of a problem. Let us know what happens. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edge184. :D Sometimes different Dealers use different types of fasteners. So first you need to determine what type of fastener was used. If screws were used, you can simply unscrew the fasteners. However, if your license plate bracket was simply screwed on, you would probably already have it off without the help of us schlubs. So I am guessing that yours is probably attached using rivets. In that case, using a small drill bit you can carefully drill out the center of the rivets. Then use slightly larger bits until the rivet loosens/breaks. Simple to do. Or as an alternative, some people use a Dremel tool and cut off the top of the rivet. I prefer the drilling method. Nuts and bolts are usually not used, so there should be no reason to need to get to the back of the bumper cover. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi computerguy. :D Again, those symptoms (a high pitched sound audible especially when the car is not moving and all other electronics are turned off etc), are all signs of a fuel pump noise. Now, a certain amount of sound from a fuel pump is normal, since it is a high pressure pump. And some make a little more noise than others. even when working properly. And some people are more sensitive to the sound (especially high pitched sounds) than others. So in the end, if you think there is an unusual problem with your Edge, your best bet is to make an appointment with your Dealerships Service Department for diagnosis/service. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jonesdz. :D If you can only hear it while moving, I would tend to agree with Splitpi; driveshaft (if AWD), drivetrain, wheel bearing or something similar. If you can also hear it while sitting still and the Sound System, HVAC, etc are all turned off, I would think it could possibly be the fuel pump. With a 2009 you should still be well within your Bumper to Bumper Warranty. I would recommend you bring it in to have the problem diagnosed and repaired. Good luck. :beerchug:

Thanks Lex. :D Yes, having participated in this discussion previously you and I knew that. But not everyone will go back to read from post #1. Just thought I would make it easier for others, since there certainly is no harm in re-posting the link 10 months later (especially now that it has grown to a second page). I was safely assuming that many who are interested in the latest DVD updates, and read this thread (like jamers1), may not go back and read all of the posts from day 1. Just thought I would re-post the link for the benefit of those people, instead of telling them to go back and find it themselves. And also to let jamers1 know that there is normally little advance notice of new edition releases (as that would certainly eat into current release DVD sales). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jamers1. :D Just to add to what Lex mentioned. Here is a link to the Navteq website LINK: Navteq. In this way you can check for the latest information if you decide to wait for an update (8P), or even contact Navteq for further information. Click on the link. Click on "Store". Click on the "Buy Now" button for "Ford DVD Maps". Then fill in the drop down boxes with your vehicle information. Once at the proper page for your vehicle, you can also click on the "In the Box" tab to see if roads have been updated in your particular city/region. Not every city or region is necessarily updated with each new release. As Lex stated, 7P is currently the latest update. Now 7P has been out for a while, but there is no regular schedule for updates, and they do not normally announce them ahead of time. We all take our chances when we buy any updated Navigation DVD's. The next update version may be released the next day (or never), for all we know. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Just as an FYI to others. Yes, I know the DVD's can be purchased cheaper elsewhere (EBay etc.). I am not providing the link to Navteq for buying purposes, simply to allow jamers1 and others to check for the latest DVD updates themselves, from the source. :stats:

Hey bt (thereisnospoon)! :D Howdy to you too brother! I should have recognized your voice! Congratulations on the new MKX! They are beautiful vehicles. Glad to hear that you had a Dealer you could trust. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ablb. :D Somehow you misunderstood what Lex and I were discussing. That is not what I stated (or what we were discussing), at all. Unfortunately, you can not do what you are planning. You can only program 2 seating positions: One seating position and corresponding keyfob with button #1, and one seating position and corresponding keyfob with button #2. That is it. You can not program the buttons and keyfobs separately for 4 different seating positions. Sorry for the misunderstanding. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bluetexan. :D Did you know that the 2008 MKX comes factory equipped with a "Perimeter Alarm System" and SecuriLock PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System)? Did the Dealer inform you that the MKX already had a Factory Perimeter Alarm System before selling you an additional aftermarket system for $499? Maybe there were some added features you wanted that were part of the aftermarket system your Dealer installed? Sorry for the questions, I just hope the Dealer dealt honestly with you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D You're welcome. I did verify that this situation occurs on my neighbors 2008 Edge Limited. I agree with you that the "Memory Seat"/keyfob deprogramming sequence in the Owners Manual is certainly different than what I have described above. Maybe this is a glitch in the system? I can not say for sure. I realize that this is not the solution for most Edge owners who have this concern, but maybe it may help a few others. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D I thought I would mention this bit of information. I realize that what I am about to state is not the cause of the problem for most of you, but it is still good to know for those who may not realize it: If for any reason you should use the memory buttons on the door to reset the seats, you also need to reprogram the corresponding keyfob. So, for example: If I have set memory button #1 to adjust my seating position and recognize my keyfob, all should be well. But, let's say one day that I decide I would like to move the seat back to a different position. I adjust the seat back, press "SET" and press "1". That will store the memory for that button. But you have now wiped out the Memory Seating function for your particular keyfob. You must now reprogram the keyfob and door buttons for the keyfob/seat memory function to work. Until you also reprogram the keyfob, only the door button will work. The keyfob will not be recognized. As I said, I am sure this is not the solution for the great majority of those having this problem, but hopefully it may help one or two of you. Good luck. :beerchug: