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Hi rkedz. See your other post. I answered there. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rkedz. :D If you have the EATC (Automatic Temperature Control) HVAC system, the temperature will be shown in the EATC system display, not the Information center display. You press the button that is marked "EXT" to get the external temperature reading. Press it again to return to the inside temperature. It can display one or the other. For those with the Manual HVAC system, there is no external temperature display. This information (and a lot more) is also explained in detail in the Owners Manual. If you purchased used and did not get an Owners Manual, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Owners Guides Fill in the drop down boxes with your vehicle information, then click "submit". Then click on "Edge Owner Guide". As you will see, you can also download the Warranty and Maintenance Guides. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi chardylo. :D Perhaps you misunderstood what I stated above, as I am not sure why you quoted my reply in your post. I simply stated as you just did, that an alignment should be performed after installing lowering springs. Hopefully you did not think I was saying something different? Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Your buddy is 100% correct. If you want to do the lowering spring install correctly, you definitely need to have an alignment performed after doing the job. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D Yes, this can certainly be classified as a DIY job. Only takes some basic automotive tools and skill (plus a spring compressor). And you should have an alignment performed after lowering springs are installed. Some people don't, but it is still highly recommended. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi crazyeddie. :D Have you thought about Factory Ordering the exact Edge you would like, instead of buying from stock? Personally, I always Factory Order my cars. In this way you get the exact vehicle you want, in the interior and exterior colors you prefer. You do not wind up with a vehicle that is missing options you wanted, and you do not have to pay for options you did not want. You do not have to "settle for" a vehicle that is "close enough" to what you wanted. If you have the time to wait the 6-8 weeks for a Factory Order, it is the perfect way to get exactly what you want. Just thought I would throw the idea out there. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 1nutsvt. :D Some people have installed these aftermarket HID kits and had no problems, while others have nothing but problems (non-functioning lights, lights that will not fire up properly, "Bulb out Warnings", etc etc). So chances of success seem to be a toss up. One word of warning, in case you were not aware: All aftermarket HID kits are illegal for on road use in the U.S and Canada, in the low beam position. You can use them in the fog light position legally. Not trying to talk you out of anything, just providing relevant information. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi breezin. :D I am sorry to hear about your misfortune. However, if you hit a pothole hard enough that "chunks came off the tire" and it put "3 inch rub marks on the wheels", it is not a design defect with the wheel. Neither is a nicked wheel. That is "Road Hazard Damage" and is specifically not covered by a New Car Warranty. An Auto Manufacturer is only responsible for defects in parts and workmanship, not damage caused by hitting something like a pothole or other road hazard. Now, please understand that I am not placing blame on you. You did not intentionally try to damage your wheels. But it is not Fords fault either. This is one of the main problems with big wheels (like the 20" MKX wheels). They are prone to road hazard damage due to the short tire sidewalls. The tire sidewall acts as a shock absorber to soak up shock from potholes and road hazards. When you install big wheels, you have to use a lower profile tire to maintain the desired "look", fit and overall diameter. Unfortunately that leaves less shock absorbing sidewall to protect the wheel. The wheel is closer to the road and closer to things that can rub, scratch, nick and bend it. Unfortunately it is not a design defect, as any 20" wheel would have been damaged the same way in the same situation, so there is not much that you can do. Your could always try your luck with the Service Department at another Dealership. But if the damage was obviously caused by a pot hole or other road hazard damage, it is likely they will tell you the same thing. Does not hurt to try though. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi JRavey. :D It might be, or it might not be. Internet diagnosis is difficult/impossible. All we can do is take educated (or wild) guesses. And you will always be able to find someone who says they had "this noise" or "that problem", either real or perceived. And most likely their problem will have no relationship to your problem/concern anyway. Especially a "thunk" when moving from Park to Reverse or Drive. Here are some places you can start to investigate: Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Was it filled properly? Did the fluid look discolored or smell burned? If it was low, did you top it off to the proper level? Essentially, your best course of action is to make an appointment for service and bring it in for diagnosis. You are still covered by the New Car Warranty, so any necessary repairs are covered under Warranty. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi MustangMike. :D I am simply trying to help here, so please no name calling. A turbocharger is an air compressor. It is classified as a "Centrifugal Compressor". There are many types of compressors and most of them do not involve pistons. They include: 1 - Centrifugal compressors (an automotive turbocharger is a Centrifugal Compressor). 2 - Diagonal or mixed-flow compressors 3 - Axial-flow compressors (used in jet aircraft/gas turbine engines) 4 - Reciprocating compressors (the piston type compressor you are describing) 5 - Rotary screw compressors 6 - Rotary vane compressors 7 - Scroll compressors 8 - Diaphragm compressors If you doubt any of this information, please just Google it. In fact, if you simply Google the word "compressor". Here is one link (Wikipedia) with some good information: LINK: Compressors If anyone does not like the Wikipedia link, there are many other informational sites available. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi crazyeddie. :D This is hard to explain, but you do not figure what is/is not a good price by figuring what the percentage is that you are getting off of the MSRP (Window Sticker). That is falling right into the Dealers trap. You figure a good price by basing it off the Factory Invoice Price. I mean absolutely no offense towards anyone, but while others may be willing to give you advice with inadequate/minimal information, it is not necessarily advice that you should follow. There are far too many variables left unknown with the extreme minimum of information that you have at the moment. If I am going to give good (and accurate) advice to someone, I prefer not to just wing it. If there is not enough information, I will not guess. I will leave the guessing to others. Here is another option: Go to forddirect.com and follow the links to "Search Inventory". You search by ZIP Codes. Find a vehicle which is equipped like the one you are interested in (or close). When you find a suitable vehicle, come back and post the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership, the model and trim level (i.e Edge SE, SEL etc.), the color and the VIN. Then I can find the true Inventory Price for you. With that information I can then give you an accurate answer as to whether a price is a good deal. If you would like the assistance, post back with that information. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi crazyeddie. :D To access the pricing on the Ford site, I first need the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership. Then I can search that Dealerships Inventory for the particular VIN. Without the name and ZIP, I would have to search every Dealer in West Virgina randomly, until I found the right vehicle. Unfortunately, I can not do that. If you can call your Dealership and find out the name and ZIP of the Dealership where the Edge is located, I would be glad to help. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi crazyeddie. :D If you can furnish us with the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership (where the Edge is now located) and the Edge's VIN, we can tell you the exact Factory Invoice Price if the vehicle. That will allow us to give you a much more accurate answer. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rdonchan. :D I hope you understand I am only trying to give some basic advice, not tell you what to do. I agree that you need to do what you feel most comfortable with. And I certainly agree, either version of the quote fits! Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi edge18. :D I don't want to tell anyone what to do with only minimal information available, but this would be my advice: It appears much better for your Arbitration case (or possible future Lemon Law case) if you have not denied Ford all opportunity to repair your vehicle correctly. In this way, Ford (or any automaker) can not claim that it would be fixed if you gave them the chance. Now, that being said: Everyone having this problem is in a different situation, and the proper course of action will vary. Some have had 4 or more repairs performed already, others are on their first repair. Some have very few miles on a brand new vehicle and have time to wait for a proper fix, others are close to the end of their New Car Warranty period and need to worry about getting things taken care of immediately (repaired properly or Arbitrated in their favor). Due to those facts (among others) each Owner must make a decision based on what is best for them. Far too many variables for a "one size fits all" answer. But in general, even if you have it looked at and repaired again, if you have an Arbitration case on record and your Edge leaks again, you would still have a cause of action after the multiple repair attempts. So letting them repair it would usually be the better course of action (while also pursuing Arbitration). Hope this information helps, and is not too confusing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi rdonchann. :D Actually, for anyone who cares the proper quote is "The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results”. This quote is arguably attributed to Albert Einstein, Benjamin Franklin or various other individuals, according to who is doing the attributing . But I certainly understand that it fits this case either way. I just have a recommendation or two: First, allow Ford to fix the car when they ask, it looks better for your arbitration claim if you have not denied Ford any opportunity they have asked for. By denying the automaker the opportunity to give it another shot, you give them a little added ammo to stall the arbitration process. Just insist on a loaner, if the loss of the vehicle during the repair process will be an inconvenience. Once the BBB AutoLine Arbitration Board says you no longer need to make your car available for repair, then you are free to do as you like. But get it in writing from the BBB. Next: There is really no need to provide documentation from others who have had the same problem. Legally, it does not matter. All that matters legally is that you are having a problem. If you were the lone, single person to ever have a PTU leak, that is all that matters when you document your attempts at resolving the problem. Other Edge owners problems and repair attempts are irrelevant. Essentially, you do not have to prove that others are having the same problem, or that their problems could not be repaired in X number of attempts. You only need to prove that you have the problem and it can not be properly repaired in your case. Just to make what I am stating perfectly clear: The added information will not hurt your cases, it is just irrelevant and a bunch of added paperwork that is not needed. Just trying to save you some unnecessary work. Hope this information is not too confusing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 18ACHEVY. :D It is in the fuel tank and does not need replacement in normal service. From the Owners Manual: FUEL FILTER Your vehicle is equipped with a lifetime fuel filter that is integrated with the fuel tank. Regular maintenance or replacement is not needed. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Purple. :D There is some confusion here, due to two people ("blaze u" and "milkman1951") asking different questions (post hijack ). You and I were answering two different questions. I was answering milkman1951's question concerning lowering springs and Warranty coverage. My reply contains the copied and pasted text of Fords official stance on modifications. If one takes the time to carefully read the letter, Fords policy stance is made quite clear in the message. Also, neither my reply or Fords letter state that Ford will automatically reject a Warranty claim, simply because a vehicle was modified. They both simply state that any individual who modifies their vehicle must also be ready to understand the consequences if they should have a modification related failure. Perhaps that wasn't completely clear. You were answering the OP's (blaze u) question concerning wheels only. He was not asking about lowering springs or Warranty coverage. He is only asking about the proper offset so that his new wheels and tires fit correctly (without rubbing). I just wanted to point this out, so there is no more confusion. Hope this clears things up. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi milkman. :D This following letter is a prime example of Ford's policy concerning modifications such as lowering springs, aftermarket tuners, etc. Keep in mind that it does not mean that Ford will always deny a Warranty claim on a modified vehicle, but they can. So going in, you have to assume that any Warranty claim related to the modification can be denied. If they cover it, consider yourself lucky. The letter is underlined below. Pay special attention to the bold sections (which is most of it ): To: All Ford and Lincoln Mercury Dealer Principals and Service Managers Subject: Ford Motor Company Warranty Coverage Clarification THE FORD MOTOR COMPANY POSITION ON VEHICLE MODIFICATIONS We all want to do the right thing for our customers, and for the Ford Motor Company - that is why it is important to have a clear policy with regard to warranty administration. For vehicles that are not modified, the warranty policy is clear--we back our products within the guidelines of the new vehicle limited warranty, which is designed to protect the customer from defects in workmanship and/or material. However, in the case of vehicles that have been modified, the modifications may affect warranty coverage. This is because damage or failures of the new vehicle components CAUSED by modifications to the vehicle are not defects in "factory supplied" workmanship or material. STATEMENTS OF COVERAGE Ford states clearly in the Warranty Information Booklet provided with every new vehicle in the chapter "WHAT IS NOT COVERED?" "Damage Caused By: Non-Ford parts installed after the vehicle leaves Ford's control. For example, but not limited to, cellular phones, alarm systems, and automatic starting systems, and performance-enhancing powertrain chips" And also in the chapter "OTHER ITEMS AND CONDITIONS NOT COVERED" “Your New Vehicle Limited Warranty” also does not cover: Non-Ford parts of your vehicle, for example, parts (including glass) installed by body builders or manufacturers other than Ford, or damage to Ford components caused by the installation of non-Ford parts other than "certified" emission parts. TYPICAL MODIFICATIONS THAT MAY CAUSE WARRANTY DENIAL Some non-Ford modifications that may cause damage to the vehicle for which warranty protection might be denied include: Power chips or unauthorized re-programming of the module that modify the original powertrain calibrations, supercharger or turbo-charger installations, under drive pulleys to engine front accessory drives, transmission "shift kits," low restriction air intake and filter systems, low restriction exhaust systems, Nitrous Oxide systems (gas engines) and Propane systems (diesel engines), final drive axle ratio changes, alterations to fuel systems and wiring harnesses. WARRANTY DENIAL Although the installation of these non-Ford parts and after-market modifications, by themselves, will not void the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, failures of the vehicle's engine or transmission or other components that are the result of these parts and/or modifications may result in a denial of warranty for the Ford component that failed or damage that results. DEALER INSTALLATION AND MARKETING OF THESE COMPONENTS, CLEAN AIR ACT Dealers who are installing these power enhancement and unknown performance enhancing devices may incur the liability for the effect on federal and state emission compliance and should make customers aware that the addition of these devices may cause failures of drivetrain components that may not be covered under the Ford New Vehicle Warranty. Section 203(a) of the Clean Air Act defines the prohibition against tampering with vehicle components that may effect emissions. Section 205 of the Clean Air Act defines dealer tampering as subject to civil penalty of up to $31,500 per violation. Ford Motor Company strongly suggests that dealers do not install or market components that may cause damage to the vehicles components. EFFECTS OF MODIFICATIONS ON PRIOR APPROVAL Engine and Automatic transmission assembly replacements for which Ford Motor Company is participating in the repair (Bumper to Bumper, Service Part Warranty, and After Warranty Adjustments) require prior approval by the Ford Technical Service Hotline, with the exception of ESP and FSAs which may require separate approval. The Hotline Service Engineers are skilled and knowledgeable about the various kinds of non-Ford parts (and any parts - Ford or aftermarket - designated for "off road use only") and modifications that can potentially affect engine, transmission and other vehicle systems. Where evidence of such part or modifications exists and the failure or damage is the result of such part or modification - Warranty coverage will likely be denied for the repair. While lowering a vehicle or modifying the suspension is not specifically mentioned, the list is not exclusive (or all inclusive), and the examples given are simply that, examples. Since lowering a vehicle can change the angle of the halfshafts/driveshafts, it can alter the drivetrain geometry. This can lead to added stress on those drivetrain components. This fact can lead to denial of certain engine related Warranty claims. Again, this does not guarantee that your claim will be denied. But it is a distinct possibility. Also, you asked about and I answered concerning the drivetrain (engine, transmission etc). I assume you already realize that lowering a vehicle will almost certainly result in any suspension related Warranty claims being denied? In addition, keep the following facts in mind: Final approval for Warranty repairs are not up to individual Dealerships or Dealership employees. Ford Motor Company is footing the bill, and Ford Motor Company makes the final decision on all Warranty related matters. Bottom line: I am not telling anyone not to modify their vehicles. I am simply supplying the correct information so they can make an informed decision, and therefore they do not get any nasty Warranty surprises later. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Camry. :D You are welcome. I will leave the In dash DVD Player recommendations to others with more direct experience. What I can recommend is this. Go to LINK: Crutchfield Electronics Use the tools there to get some good ideas as to what is available and what you may like feature and price wise. You do not have to purchase from Crutchfield, just use their online tools to gain some knowledge. You can also call Crutchfield. They are very friendly and helpful, even if you do not purchase from them. Of course there are other good websites and Sellers out there, this just happens to be one that I recommend. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Night_Owl. :D Well, you can try. Do you have anything in writing where the Dealer reps state that it would/could be installed in your vehicle with full functionality? If you do, you are in better shape than if you do not. If you do not, all you can go to the Dealership and speak to the Sales Manager or General Manager about what you were told by the Salesperson (do not even bother speaking to the Salesperson). Express your dissatisfaction with the fact that it is not possible for them to do what they promised (and have it work exactly like the Factory Installed system). Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Camry. :D Well, it is one of those multiple answer, answers. Yes, there are in-dash DVD Players available. And there are kits that will allow some of the steering wheel buttons to work. But those who have these kits have stated that they are aggravating and the button replies are slow/delayed. Unfortunately however, you will lose Sync if you replace the Factory head unit. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Night_Owl. :D What I can tell you is this: All stories I have heard from those who have tried always report problems or non functional features. There also seem to be numerous problems with getting SYNC to work properly when the NAV system is retrofitted. To my knowledge, there are no trustworthy or verifiable cases of anyone getting it to work with every feature functional. There always seems to be one problem or another. If any other forum members have information to the contrary, I am soon they will reply soon. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Night_Owl. :D It will not work correctly (including the steering wheel controls). You will not have every last bit of factory functionality with an added Nav System. Adding the system is just not that easy. Unfortunately, some Salespeople will tell you anything it takes to sell the vehicle and yours did. If anything good comes out of this thread, it is that anyone who wants the Factory Nav realizes that they need to purchase their vehicle already equipped with Factory Navigation from the Factory. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi intotheoh. :D Far too many unknowns here. Please carefully read what I stated in my previous reply and this one. First: Again, you need to ask the Dealer if there will be any added "Documentation Fees", "Computer Usage Fees", "Dealer Prep Fees", etc etc. Dealers love to tack on these added fees at the last minute when you are ready to sign, and they are nothing but pure profit for them. Right now, I believe you have no idea whether there will or will not be added fees. You need to ask the Dealer exactly what the "Final Out the Door Price" will be. Next: Again, you should know how much Incentive Cash is included in a price quote. And we can not tell you if a price is good or not if we do not know how much Incentive Cash is included in the price quote. You just are not sure and that is bad. "Thinking" it is $4500 is not the way to buy a vehicle. Also again, Incentives vary by region. What is offered in your area may be more or less than what is offered in my area. Without a ZIP Code we cannot know. You need to find out that information, or tell us your ZIP Code (preferably both). You have no given us enough information to tell you whether it is "invoice less any incentives" or not. If you don't know, how can we know without more information? I am not trying to bust your chops. It is simply not possible to give you an accurate answer with the limited information you know and have given us. If you want a guess, we can all flip a coin, but I do not think you want that, and I would not want to do that to you. If you would like to provide the information needed, I/we would be more than happy to do the calculations needed to give you an accurate answer. In fact, if you give us the VIN# along with the name and Zip Code of the Dealership, I can tell you the exact Invoice Price of that particular Edge. Good luck. :beerchug: