bbf2530

Hi Charlie. :D No particular reason to change the oil before the Ford recommended OCI (Oil Change Interval). That would be 6 months/7,500 miles for "Normal Service", or 6 months/5,000 miles for "Severe Service" use. The "Severe Service" schedule would include vehicles used for towing, heavy idling (i.e. taxis), consistently dusty driving conditions, etc etc. Remember that the 6 month time period is very important. Even if you only have 3,000 miles in 6 months (or insert any other mileage figure), the oil must be changed after 6 months. Some people do their first oil change sooner, to "get rid of any metal shavings" and other reasons. It will certainly not hurt anything to do so, but it is not necessary. Concerning types of oil. Ford requires 5W20 oil for full Warranty protection. Yes, read the Owners Manual, no matter what anyone else may say, FOrd clearly states that using any other viscosity can have Warranty implications. And no matter what anyone else may say, the "Magnuson-Moss Act" gives no protection if you fail to follow legal Warranty stipulations. Therefore, you should use 5W-20. In this way, if you should ever have engine problems (no matter how unlikely), you will not need to worry about Warranty denial issues. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi pontiac. :D While this is a bit off topic, I will give you this advice: If you actually plan on attempting a "Lemon Law" buyback or replacement, you need to read the Warranty Guide Brochure which you were given when you purchased your vehicle. In that Warranty Guide are listed the specific steps which you must follow to begin this process. If you do not follow those procedures, you can affect your chances of success. Do not expect the Dealer (or Ford rep) to assist you in this process, since technically it is not their job to (not defending, just explaining the reality). There are some Dealers and Ford reps who will, but they are the exception. If your Dealer or particular Ford rep does assist you in a "Lemon Law" buyback or exchange, that is great and consider yourself lucky. However, be ready to exercise your rights on your own, just in case. So read the Warranty Guide so that you know your rights and responsibilities. Like the old saying goes: "Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Rich. :D I agree. It would seem to me that the best proactive step would be to have the system flushed and filled with the "revised coolant" mentioned in the letter. While a pre-problem flush and fill does not seem to be covered under the terms of the extended Warranty, it never hurts to ask the Dealer if it can be Warranty covered. If they say yes, great. If they say no, then paying for the flush and revised coolant refill out-of-pocket would seem to be a small price to pay for a little added peace of mind. As you stated, you are skeptical of the 5 year/100,000 mile coolant flush interval anyway. And you are probably at least two years into ownership on top of that. Keep us updated. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - I have a feeling the reason Ford has decided to address this problem on an as-needed basis is because only a small percentage of heater cores are defective (as akirby mentioned earlier). Therefore, it is more cost effective to address the situation by extending the Warranty and flushing/fixing on an as-needed basis, as opposed to calling everyone back in to flush and fill (since most vehicle heater cores are not defective and will not have the problem anyway). Just an educated guess. Also, to save any outraged replies. I completely understand that this causes anguish and aggravation for some owners so I am not defending the decision made by Ford. I am only taking an educated guess and explaining the "business" end of it.

Hi controleur. :D So if I understand correctly, you are paying $37,855 for the vehicle and all Dealer added fees? Then $4,845 in Government/State/Provincial taxes. For a total of $42,700? Is that correct? If it is, then it would seem you are getting a good price. Here is why I say that: When I work up the price of an FWD Edge Limited with the options you list above, I get an MSRP of approximately $42,237 (not 100% sure, because there are several "Cargo Organizers" of differing price, so I took the most expensive one at $188). Also, keep in mind that $42,237 price does not include destination (according to the Ford of Canada website). So doing some backwards math: Subtract the $4,845 in taxes you are paying, and you are getting a $42,237 MSRP vehicle for $37,392. Including all Dealer added fees and charges. Of course, this assumes I understood your last reply correctly and that my math is relatively accurate. So for what it is worth, it seems you are getting a pretty darn good price. As far as what deals there may be in January, no one ever really has any reliable advance knowledge concerning Incentives. Ford keeps that information well protected until it is time. Also, I would still like to know what the APR rate is on the loan, to be sure they are not making back some of that good price by ripping you on the loan. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi controleur. :D Sorry, but you have not included enough information for any sort of accurate answer. For example: 1 - What model (SE, SEL, Limited)? I am assuming SE by the pricing and option features you list, but do not want to guess. 2 - How much Incentive or Rebate cash are you eligible for and/or is included in that price? 3 - What is the duration and APR rate of your loan (if you are financing). Dealers will often give a slightly low vehicle price, knowing they will more than make it up with a ridiculously high APR finance rate. 3 - When you state "tax in", does that mean that price already includes tax and all other fees and charges? 4 - If yes, we need to know the cost of the vehicle before tax and other Canadian Motor Vehicle type fees. Otherwise, we have to guess at what your tax rate is to deduct it from the price. 5 - Does that price include all "Dealer added fees", such as "Documentation", "Computer Usage", "Delivery Charges", etc. etc. 6 - If yes, we need to know the vehicle price without the Dealer added fees, and the type and amounts of the fees summarized separately. 7 - If not, we need to know the type and amount of all those Dealer added fees. Again, Dealers will sometimes offer a slightly low vehicle price, but more than make up for it with ridiculous added fees and charges. These are just some of the important bits of information that are missing for an accurate answer. Any answer without that information is no better than a good/no good coin flip. And by the away, this is the second or third time I have seen someone use the term "cote". What is that an acronym for (Cost of Transaction -----???)? Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D I certainly understand your point and don't necessarily disagree. And maybe the PTU leak will eventually lead to a Warranty extension. Unfortunately, up until this point it has not. However. just so others (you and I already understand the situation) do not get confused by the cross referencing, the purpose of these TSB/Warranty extension letters is not to serve as a heads up for the heater core problem. In other words, they are sent strictly as heads up on the Warranty extension (extended to 6 years/105,000 miles from the base 3 years/36,000 miles). Not to tell people to bring their cars in for any mandatory servicing at this time. And if there is a problem, the heater core will be flushed and coolant replaced with a revised formulation, or replaced if irreparably damaged (if I understand correctly). And since there is no such Warranty extension (yet) for the PTU seal, there has been no letter. I had received a similar letter for my wife's 2001 Cougar back in 2003. It notified owners that the Warranty was being extended to 10 years/100,000 miles on the fuel pump, due to an overheating problem that could lead to premature failure. Again, it was not telling people to bring their cars in, just that the Warranty would be extended on fuel pump failures if they should occur. If the fuel pump did not fail, there was no free replacement. Similar to this heater core campaign. I only explain this because many owners do not understand the difference between TSB's, Warranty Extensions, Recalls, etc. etc.. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Just to throw out another idea to add to akirby's good reply. In this case (a small percentage of defective heater cores), there is the added factor of the heater core Warranty Extension to "6 years/105,000 miles". As opposed to most TSB's (which are usually strictly informational and do not contain Warranty extensions), without this letter many (maybe most) Edge owners would not know of their extended Warranty rights. So Ford is attempting to make Edge owners aware of this possible problem and just as importantly, the extended Warranty. In this way, the letter now makes the average Edge owner (who does not frequent online Edge forums) aware of this extended coverage in case they should develop possible heater core trouble later (maybe even 5 1/2 years from now). So instead of believing their warranty coverage expired at 3 years/36,000 miles and taking their Edge to a non-Ford/Lincoln-Mercury shop (and getting charged for the work to repair a bad heater core), they will know to bring it to their Ford Dealer for a free Warranty replacement. Just another thought. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 95f150. :D If the information contained in other threads concerning this subject is correct, there are at least two timer settings for the Ford Remote Start system: 10 minutes and 15 minutes. I can not personally vouch for that information, but have seen it repeatedly posted. And while I believe the Dealer must make the programming change, the Remote Start User Guide should answer that question. Sorry, I do not have one available at the moment to look at. As Tom (tpm) stated above, the Dealer (or the Remote Start User Guide) is probably the best place to find the definitive answers to these questions. Or if someone has other/better information sources, perhaps they can post a link to assist you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Matt. :D Yes, the SYNC microphone is located in the rear view mirror. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi esckjc. :D I would recommend you make an appointment for service, since your Edge (MKX) is still covered under the 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty (at a minimum), even if your original "Bumper to Bumper Warranty" has expired. Of course it never hurts to ask for opinions, but your best bet at getting this properly diagnosed and repaired is at the Dealership. Since there is a chance that a trouble/problem code was stored when this occurred, the sooner you bring it in, the better the chance the code may be recovered before it is lost. Explain in detail exactly what/when/where and how, the symptoms occurred (as you did above). Let us know the outcome. Also, as a side note: Today's cars are are essentially run and controlled by computers, therefore they act like computers. As you found out, turning off the car and restarting essentially performed a "reboot" of the computerized trans/engine functions. In the future, if you can not get to a Ford Dealer immediately while the problem is occurring, pull safely off the road, turn off and restart the car. There is a good chance that this "reboot" will eliminate the problem (at least temporarily) as it did in your case. At least it may save a dangerous drive in a poorly operating vehicle. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bender. :D If you read your Owners Manual, you will find that it clearly states that a "burning smell" or other similar odors are normal during the new car break-in period. This is due to the fact that lubricants and other solvents used during the manufacturing process are burning off of the engine. So some odor will be normal. I am not making any judgments as to whether your "sweet" or "rubber burning" smells are normal or due to a defect, since it is impossible for us to diagnose exactly what the odor you are describing is coming from. However, conventional wisdom would state that it is likely just the normal new car burn off, not a defect or leak. Of course, if you see any leaking on the ground or undercarriage, you should make a service appointment. If you have no visible leaking but are still worried, have it checked at your first service visit. Until then, for what it is worth my advice would be to assume the best until you have a reason not to. Let us know the outcome. Good luck with your new Edge. :beerchug:

Hi woliver. :D Sorry to hear about your problem. First, you need to check and adjust the tire pressures to the correct levels (do not assume the dealer did it properly). The correct tire pressure is located on the Manufacturer sticker on the drivers side door jamb. Next, you need to follow the instructions located in the TPMS section of your Owners Manual concerning the TPMS system. If you still get the TPMS fault light, make an appointment for service. Likely something as simple as a faulty sensor or reprogramming needed. While it is understandable that you are upset, things happen and it will be taken care of. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ThinLine. :D If you reread my reply more carefully, you will see that I clearly stated that a small percentage of vehicles will always display one problem or another and that includes "leaking PTU's". No "problem" or "issue" will ever be completely eliminated, and that includes leaking PTU's. That is an unchangeable fact of life. Here is a quote from my previous reply, with the pertinent sections in bold: "Like any problem with any vehicle, there are a small percentage of 2007 and up vehicles which had this "leaking PTU" problem. Not nearly as many as some would make it seem. And the problem has been corrected on newer (2009-2010) vehicles. Do a small percentage still have problems, of course, like any defect in any vehicle. As usual, you need to take any information from the Internet with a grain of salt (and that includes any information I may also give). You need not worry about a leaking PTU anymore than you would worry about a leaking sunroof, a power window motor going bad, etc etc. Will defects occur and problems happen? Possibly, of course. But no more likely than in any other vehicle." So as you can see, I clearly stated that a certain small percentage of owners will still be unlucky enough to experience a leaking PTU. In the same way that a certain small percentage of owners will be unlucky enough to experience power window problems, leaking sunroofs, blown head gaskets, defective tires (insert any other "issue" you can think of) etc etc. Bottom line: The PTU is a mass produced mechanical device on a mass produced vehicle. And like every part on every vehicle, no problem will ever be completely eliminated. Problems will occur, and they will be addressed as they occur and fixes implemented. The same problems are experienced in other makers vehicles. Some more often, some less often than others. It is the nature of the mass produced beast. That was the point of my reply. Hopefully, this makes my answer clearer. Also, as a small side point, while the fourth "model year" of the Edge is now out (2007-2008-2009 and now 2010), the Edge itself has only been available for approximately three calendar years (not 4). From approximately late 2006 until now. Not a big deal, just wanted to set the time-line straight. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bluecker. :D Sorry, misunderstood and thought you had purchased used with 40,000 miles. If you have the "PremiumCare" ESP Plan through Ford, then yes the Vista Roof is covered. Go here to research coverages of the different ESP Plans: LINK: Ford ESP Plans Not sure why you are being told it is not. Unless the Dealer and Ford are claiming the roof was damaged in some way by something you, someone else or nature did, there is no reason for it not being covered? Not making any accusations, just trying to get to the root of the problem. What is the year and mileage limits for your ESP contract? In the meantime, you might want to try another Dealer. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bluecker. :D Not enough information. We have no idea what Plan level you actually have (I know you say "Premium" Extended Warranty, but we need to be sure what plan you have, since Salesmen often call everything "Premium", including the lowest level plans. Even where you are located is important, as Plans vary in the U.S., Canada etc. First, are you sure you have the Ford ESP Plan? The reason I ask is that in the U.S. (not sure where you are) the Ford ESP Plan is only available for purchase during the "New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty" period (that is the first 3 years/36,000 miles in the U.S on Ford and Mercury vehicles. So if your Edge had 40,000 miles when you purchased it, you would not have been eligible for the Ford ESP (unless it already had it from the previous owner and the contract was transferred to you). So there is some confusion here. Second, the ESP Plan through Ford has several different "Plans". They include "PowertrainCare", "BaseCare", "ExtraCare" and "PremiumCare" (from lowest coverage to highest). Not all will cover the Panoramic Roof and other components. Certainly not the "PowertrainCare". If you are in Canada, I am not sure of the available Plans or what they cover. Essentially, it is impossible for us to answer the question without knowing what plan you have, where you are etc. In the end, more information would help us answer your question. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jlas. :D It is entirely possible that there was no damage, or there may be damage to the structural bumper components underneath. Hard for a non-professional to tell. So, my best advice? Take it to a quality body/collision repair shop, tell them what occurred and let them examine your car. They are the experts and will know exactly what to look for. And estimates are free. If you do not have a body/collision repair shop you can trust, then call your Insurance Company and ask for a recommendation in your area. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi LivingEdgey. :D Yes. Remove the front license plate. Determine what type of fastener your Dealer used to attach the bracket. It will usually be either screws or rivets. If it is screws, simply remove the screws to remove the bracket. You will need to purchase some type of plug to hide the holes in the bumper cover. There are several choices available and you can paint them to match the bumper color. If it is rivets, it is a little harder. You will need to drill out the rivets, or use a "Dremel" type tool to take off the rivet head and release the bracket. Fill the holes with plugs. To reinstall the bracket, simply remove the plugs and use appropriate sized screws to reattach it when you want/need to. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D If you knew my wife, you would completely understand why I will go out of my way to be polite to all women, even a complete stranger on the Internet! I "ain't" taking no chances on "pissing off" any girls!!! :shades: I would like to live a long and healthy life. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D Did not realize you were of the "female persuasion", :shades: so yes that does add a wrinkle or two to the situation. Unfortunately, some people do try to take advantage of a woman, assuming she knows less about cars in general. Concerning the Service Rep telling you "they do not cover tires": Ford is responsible to cover all aspects of your new vehicle under the stipulations of your New Car Warranty. And that includes defective tires. This is explained in the New Vehicle Warranty Guide. And just so you understand, I only mention reading the Warranty Guide to help you understand your rights, not to discourage you from asking questions here. Knowing what the Warranty Guide states (and having it to show the Service Rep at the Dealer), will help you stand up for your rights concerning Warranty coverage. Also, I just wanted to correct a misconception you had in one of your earlier replies concerning where the worn tires should be placed on a vehicle. FYI -You can check this information on sites like The Tire Rack, Discount Tire, or any of the major tire manufacturers websites: Whether a vehicle is FWD, RWD or AWD, if you are only replacing two tires, the worn tires should always be placed on the front of the vehicle, the new tires on the back. It does not matter which are the drive wheels. This is to avoid a condition called "over-steer", which can happen when your rear tires are more worn and have less traction than the front tires. Simply explained, "over-steer" is when your rear tires lose traction before the front tires in a turn or during braking, causing a spin. Rear tires that are measurably more worn than the front tires can cause this dangerous "over-steer" condition[/b] in slippery, wet, snowy or icy driving situations.[/b][/u] When rotating tires, regular rotation will avoid any of the four tires from being too severely worn over the others, letting you freely rotate from front to rear without worrying about this. And obviously, bald tires should always be immediately replaced (actually, before they get to that that bad) for safety reasons. Again, just to save needless debate with those who may feel otherwise, this information is what all tire manufacturers and tire professionals advise, is not new, and can be verified on any of the websites I have previously mentioned above. Sorry if any of this is confusing. If it is, let me know and I will try to explain more clearly. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D While the Ford Dealer may try to tell tell you that you need to go to a Tire Dealer (many Dealers say that, either out of lack of knowledge or just trying to put the work off on someone else), that is not usually the case. During the new car Warranty period, Ford also covers problems with the tires. So if you have a defective tire needing to be replaced under Warranty, Ford takes care of it. This information is in the Vehicle Warranty and Tire Warranty Guides which I mentioned in my previous reply. If you have the time, I think it would be very helpful for your situation if you were to give those guides a quick look-over. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT - In case any of my information now seems repetitive, both akirby and Lex posted their last replies while I was still typing this, so I had not seen those replies before I posted. Hi igcitng. :D No, 7,500 miles is not too long between rotations. In fact, it is the recommended interval for a "Normal Service" vehicle. Here is the "Normal" oil change/tire rotation Maintenance Schedule for your vehicle, copied and pasted directly from the appropriate Maintenance Guide (Ford's, not the Dealers): 7,500 miles ❑ Change engine oil and replace oil filter ❑ Rotate tires, inspect tires for wear and measure tread depth ❑ Inspect the wheels and related components for abnormal noise, wear, looseness, or drag ❑ Perform multi-point inspection (recommended) As you can see, as long as you fall under the Normal Use Schedule (which most drivers do) you can change the oil and rotate the tires at 7,500 miles. For severe duty (vehicles used for towing, heavy idling etc), the oil change interval drops to 5,000 miles, in which case you might as well rotate the tires while it is in for the oil change. Of course, if you wish to do recommended services sooner than the Maintenance Guide, there is no harm in doing that. But the Dealer's Service Rep should certainly not be giving you an attitude, since at the least, you are following Ford's recommendations. To your steering pull issue: As akirby and some others have mentioned, it could be any of multiple problems. Just thinking out loud: Improperly inflated tires could result in a steering pull. So could a defective or unevenly worn tire (usually on the front of the vehicle). Generally speaking, if the alignment was okay before the tire rotation, it should still be okay after. A tire rotation would not normally change the alignment. But no harm in having it checked, if the Dealer will cover it under Warranty (as akirby mentioned, only 12 months/12,000 miles). Also generally speaking, same thing with the tire balance. If it was okay before, it should be now, unless they knocked off a balance weight (usually unlikely). Also, an out of balance tire will usually result in a front or rear vibration, not a pull in the steering. My best advice? Take it ina nd let them know about your concerns and when/how it started. Let the shop diagnose and repair the problem. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug: PS -When you purchased your Edge (if you purchased new), along with the Owners Manual you were given other brochures and guides, including the Maintenance Guide, Warranty guide, Tire Warranty Guide, etc etc. If you were not given them, lost them or can not find them, you can download PDF versions here: LINK: Owner Guides The PDF versions on the computer really do come in handy sometimes. With the Maintenance Guide, just be sure you are looking at the correct schedule for your vehicle, as the Guide contains recommended schedules for all Ford vehicles. So you need to be sure you are using the "NORMAL SCHEDULE CARS & CUVS" schedule, not the schedule for trucks, vans and SUV's. You must also decide whether to use the "Normal Schedule" or "Severe Service Schedule". So look carefully at the table of contents to be sure you are looking at the correct schedule.

Hi viscount. :D Pricing questions like this will vary greatly according to region you live in, Dealer?Financing willingness to negotiate, etc. etc.. Whatever answer we may give (as Internet strangers with little background information) is only a 50/50 crap-shoot guess at best. Your best course of action is to simply ask the General Manager or Leasing Manager of your Dealership the question. Go in prepared. Check KBB.com. NADA.com and Edmunds for the average current value of your Edge. In general, take an average of the quotes from the three sites to give you a general idea of current value. Yes, I know some people say these sites are not accurate enough for them, but having three quotes from expert sites is better than nothing at all, and still better than a bunch of Internet guesses from a bunch of mooks like us. Of course, Then you also need to figure in to the equation any extra charges for you may be assessed for damage, over-mileage etc. into the equation when deciding if it is worth it to buy, as opposed to turning in and paying those charges.. At least you will have some figures to back your request for a lower buy-out. Actually, while it is hard without knowing options etc, $11,000 does not sound all that bad (just a blind Internet guess). For what it is worth, that would be my best recommendation. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi BlazedUp. :D Since I am the only one who mentioned Ford specifically states that a little pinging once in a while can be considered normal, I assume you were referring to what I wrote. Just as a point of reference, this is directly copied and pasted from the Owners Manual: Do not be concerned if your engine sometimes knocks lightly. However, if it knocks heavily under most driving conditions while you are using fuel with the recommended octane rating, see your authorized dealer to prevent any engine damage. So yes, while none of us want our car to do it, a bit of (as in a little) engine knocking/pinging once in a while is not a concern, as the Manual states. Of course all things are relative, and Internet diagnosis of engine sounds is impossible. So as we told esseffe in September, and you just told him now, he should not be using premium fuel and a second opinion from another Dealer is probably a good idea. Hopefully he has done that by now if he was still concerned. Hope this makes the information I posted a bit less confusing. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi flyer. :D Understood. Accepted. And again, no hard feelings. :grouphug: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi delliot. :D Only the seating surfaces. The sides, backs and headrests are not leather. Neither are the door panels or dash. I am not 100% sure about the console top, but I believe it also is not leather. Good luck. :beerchug: