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Hi feelin edgy. :D Assuming proper care. as long as you are within the Bumper to Bumper Warranty, the wheels are covered. Now, if you used any type of acid based spray on wheel cleaner (or anything similar), you could have problems. Soap and water and a coat of wax once in a while is the proper maintenance for our wheels. I do not want to call the guy a liar, but unless they only sell 5 or 6 cars a year , he has certainly seen more than one bad wheel finish in the last 5 or 6 years. If the Service Department at your Dealership gives you problems, take your car to another Dealership for Warranty service (and all other service from now on). The Dealer does have to take pictures and send to Ford for Warranty approval though, so he was telling you the truth about that much anyway. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi blockisle. :D There are several variables and we do not know the answers to any of them. For example, was the bumper repainted (before or after you purchased)? If it was, it would not normally be covered. Was the bumper involved in any impacts (before or after you purchased)? If it was, again, not usually covered. It is plastic part, so it is not rust. Essentially, unless it is a defect in material or workmanship, it is not a Warranty issue. You will need to wait and see what the Dealership Service person says when they get back to you. It is not a clear cut issue without knowing added information. If you are not happy with their answer, here is a copy and paste from your Warranty Guide: Sometimes Ford may offer a special adjustment program to pay all or part of the cost of certain repairs beyond the terms of the applicable warranty. Check with your dealer or call 1-800-521-4140 to learn whether any adjustment program is applicable to your vehicle. Please have your vehicle identification number available. There is also a lot of other valuable information in that Warranty Guide, so you might want to read it over. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Two things: First, would you please try to post your questions once. I assume it was a mistake and that your system was responding slowly for some reason, but try to wait for the system to load before hitting the "Add Reply' button multiple times. Second, since you mistakenly posted your question three times, go back and edit out the other two repeat posts to say "Delete" or "Ignore". And edit out the text/question. In this way, people will answer in one thread instead of three. And it may prevent others who are not quite as understanding from lambasting you.

Hi dadrett. :D Use this "Wheel Offset Tool" - LINK: Wheel Offset Tool to see what the exact size changes will be concerning changing wheel and offsets. Simply input the old and new wheel information. You will not have any problems with the specs you mentioned (lot of room in the wheelwells of these vehicles), but instead of taking the word of Internet strangers (like us :shades: ), check with the experts before you buy anything. I can not speak for all Wheel and Tire Retailer Websites, but if you go to "The Tire Rack" - LINK: The Tire Rack or Discount Tire - LINK: Discount Tire those sites will not steer you wrong. Of course, there are other good Retailers and websites, but I can not vouch for them. Concerning your new wheels and TPMS. There is no way to currently turn off the TPMS system, and if there was, it is doubtful that most Dealers would turn it off, due to Federal Law and the legal ramifications. As msgtia stated, if you do not plan on using your old wheels as "winter wheels", have the tire shop remove your old TPMS sensors and reinstall/reprogram them on the new wheels. You would simply need to purchase new bands, which are inexpensive. In this way, you will not have the aggravation of TPMS warning lights and messages. If I missed anything, let me know. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dadrett. :D The only correction I would even dream of making to your reply would be concerning wheel size. 15 inchers were pretty much top of the line. You wouldn't even see a 17 inch wheel on a big Lincoln or Cadillac. 15 inch wheels with a 70 Series Tire for that "Luxury Ride"! :eek5: A Corvette? A 15 inch wheel with a "Low Profile" 50 Series Tire. Now it's 22 inch wheels with 30 or 35 Series rubber bands! My how the times have changed. :blink: And you hit the nail on the head with the Dash Mats/Dash Covers. Thanks for the quick stroll down memory lane. :grouphug: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igciting. :D No, I am not a Ford Tech/Mechanic. But the information I provide is correct. I hope you have many happy and worry/fret free miles with your Edge. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D No, you are not "screwed". Again, I am not downplaying the plight of those who are having the problem, as I would also be upset if the problem was not fixed correctly the first time. However, the majority of AWD Edge owners (even those in cold weather climates) do not have a leak problem. It is a small minority of Edge owners that have the leaking PTU. So simply enjoy your Edge, and check and maintain it as you would any other vehicle. If it leaks, (statistically unlikely) bring it in for service, just like any other vehicle. No sense worrying about something that may never happen. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Gary. :D I am not downplaying your problems, just trying to explain the "Recall" question. There has been no need for a recall, because it is not a "safety" issue, nor is it a widespread issue. The problems are handles on an "as needed" basis, and let me explain why. There is no need to "recall" every AWD Edge to have it merely looked at. Imagine this, Ford "recalls" every AWD Edge and has them visually inspected. Those with no leaks (the vast majority) are sent on their way home. Those with leaks are scheduled for repair. The result of the recall? A lot of money spent inspecting a lot of perfectly healthy vehicles so that a few could be repaired, when all that needs to be done is those with leaks in their driveways or a burning smell bring in their cars for inspection, diagnosis and repair. If they "Recall" the vehicles, it does not change the current inspection, diagnosis and repair process (whether it works or not). So it is not necessary to issue a recall. Again Gary, please understand that I am not downplaying your (or any other Edge owner with a leaking PTU) concerns. I too would be upset if I was in your position. I am simply explaining why there is no "Recall", and likely will not be a recall. The bottom line is that "Recalls" are not some sort of magic bullet that would change anything in the current inspection/diagnosis/repair process. Edge's with the leak problem are repaired on an "as needed" basis. The problem is more one of the current "repair" not always correcting the problem. A 'Recall" would not change that. I hope you understand my reason for this reply. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djscotec. :D The problem here is a matter of semantics and definitions. The larger wheels will not "void your Warranty". "Void your Warranty" means completely wipe it out. However, it can lead to the denial of any Warranty claim that can be connected to the larger and heavier wheels, even remotely. If you install wheels that are larger than the largest factory wheels available on a car (in this case 10" vs 8.5"), you always place yourself at risk. As ablb stated, if you should have wheel bearing problems among other drivetrain and suspension problems, your particular claim could be denied if it can be connected to the wheels. Larger, wider, heavier wheels put added strain on the suspension and drivetrain components. Ford (and no other automaker) will take responsibility for mechanical failures that were caused by that added strain. Of course, you will now be told by someone to simply switch wheels back if you ever have a problem. As always, honesty and moral character is up to the individual. :shades: Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi crew chief. :D Short answer: No it is not "something that could be done to our Edge's with software update, shifter and some wiring". Longer answer: As the old saying goes, anything is possible if you throw enough money and time at it. However, it would essentially take an entire switch out/reprogramming of transmissions, the transmission and engine control modules etc etc. It would cost less money to simply sell your Edge and buy a new one. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi BlazedUp. :D Hey, at least a little love for me? :shades: I included a bad wheel bearing as a possibility in my very first post. I feel cold and lonely...oh the horror! Anyway, glad they found the problem. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi barry. :D Wow, glad the silicone spray worked. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi BlazedUp. :D Could be lot of things: Transmission, differential, wheel bearing, driveshaft/halfshafts, tires, etc etc. Silly question: Have you also heard this noise with the Audio System turned completely off? Just want to rule out some sort of engine interference with the Audio System. It does happen, and the interference sound when this happens also "speeds up" and slows down correspondingly to vehicle speed. Unfortunately, your best bet is to bring it in for Service. Ask to have a Tech take a short ride with you and be sure that the Tech clearly states that he/she hears the noise, so that you do not later get the dreaded "We coild not replicate your noise concern. Let us know what you find out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi mthomtech. :D Sorry for the question, but I am not clear a to exactly what you did. After you manually adjusted the seat, did you later fully reprogram the keyfob and door buttons? To keep the new adjustments in memory, you need to reprogram the system again. Maybe you did, but it was not clear to me. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Keveinsride. :D Unfortunately no, it is not as simple as that. Obviously the control buttons, electronics and programming are not present in the Edge, so simply switching out seats will not work. The MKX seat will fit it in the Edge, but the cooled seating function will not work. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi druck. :D We will simply need to "agree to disagree". He had it looked at by a "brake shop mechanic" who said "I think it might be..." and did nothing to repair it. Not a diagnosis that I would trust. Reread the entire thread and you will find that you have made several very general assumptions. For example, I do not call a quick look while rotating tires to be an in depth diagnosis. And he spent no money other than the tire rotation, and has to take it back to the "Brake Shop" anyway for a repair which he will then need to pay for. So there would be no "extra time and money" spent to have it properly diagnosed by his Ford Dealership. And again, if the problem should be Warranty covered, he would have no out of pocket expense by taking it to the Dealership. He will have to pay the "Brake Shop" for a proper diagnosis and repair. I trust my Ford or Lincoln Mercury Dealership Techs much more than I trust a brake shop mechanic, and find it ironic that a "Ford Tech" would tell someone to have their Warranty covered vehicle repaired somewhere else. So as I said, we will have to "agree to disagree". Hopefully, CE will let us know what the final outcome is. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Four Door. :D A-Plan and X-Plan are not the same price plan. X-Plan is a "Friends and Family Plan" and is essentially Factory Invoice Price. Then you also would qualify for all other publicly available Incentives. A-Plan is "Employee Pricing". It is quite a bit lower than X-Plan/Factory Invoice. A-Plan is essentially "Dealer Cost" for the vehicle, including all Dealer holdbacks. And then you still are eligible for all publicly available Incentives. A and Z-Plan are the same pricing plans. A-Plan is for active employees, Z-Plan is for retirees. But X-Plan is definitely a higher price. Also, according to AXZ-Plan rules, you would qualify for A/Z-Plan through your Grandfather. A/Z Plan eligible family members are Spouses, Parents and In-laws, children and stepchildren, grandchildren, brothers and sisters, step brothers and sisters, bother and sister in-laws. Through an Uncle, you would only qualify for X-Plan. Nieces and nephews are not eligible for A/Z-Plan. They are only eligible for X-Plan. And A-Plan is also a much lower price than X-Plan. The Dealer that gave you that information was mistaken, or there was some type of mis-communication. Hope this information helps clear up any confusion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi FourDoor. :D No, you will not be able to Factory Order the Edge that way. You have several other possibilities: First, see if the Dealer would do a swap (highly unlikely) with another vehicle on their lot. Second, purchase the seats after you buy your Edge and install them yourself or pay to have them installed (very expensive). Third, purchase and have the seat recovered in an aftermarket leather covering. Ford does offer some accessory seat covers that you could use. They are manufactured by Katzkin, a top of the line leather seat cover company. But you definitely can not Factory Order your Edge Sport with the Edge Limited seats. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi druck. :D Just so you know, I am not sure why you felt the need to quote my reply in your post. Since you did, I get the feeling that you did not read the full thread. If you had read and understood the complete thread you would have understood that I never stated that the brake pads would be covered for normal wear and tear, do not think it is a brake pad problem (using extremely inaccurate Internet diagnosis ), and have been pointing out to CE the possibility of it being more than a brake pad problem (i.e. sticking calipers, wheel bearing problems, etc). Actually, if you had not quoted my reply and simply told CE "Just so you know CE, the Warranty coverage on brake pads for normal wear and tear is 12 months/18,000 miles", I would have had nothing to say or add. But since you did quote my reply, it seems you felt you had to correct something that I did not even say. The problem here is that CE is under the mistake impression that almost anything with the brakes will not be covered under Warranty. That is incorrect. If anything, you as a Ford Tech should encourage CE and others to bring their cars into a Ford Dealer for service, so they can be diagnosed and repaired correctly. Warranty and otherwise. Right? Concerning your reply: The 12 month/18,000 mile Warranty applies only to replacement due to normal wear and tear. Warranty coverage for brake pads found to be defective in material or workmanship and/or any collateral damage cause by those defective pads would still be covered under Warranty for 3 years/36,000 miles. It also seems you did not realize that the conversation had already progressed beyond a discussion of whether it is actually the brake pads or not. CE has not had his car into a Ford Dealership to be properly diagnosed, and is currently simply going by the word of a mechanic in a local brake shop. And this brake shop mechanic closely looked at the brake pads and only ""thinks" it may be the ridging at the outer edge of the pads." Well, if I had a close look at CE's brakes, I would have been able to definitively say for sure if that was the problem or not. So this leads me to believe the mechanic is only guessing and it just as likely is not the brake pads causing the problem. When a mechanic has had a chance to see the pads/brake system components close up, "I think" doesn't cut it (in my opinion). Therefore, I still recommend that CE take his car to a Ford Dealer for a proper diagnosis. And then if it is a Warranty problem, it will be covered. Additionally, my advice already took into account what he should do/can do to protect himself if the takes it to his Ford Dealer for service and it should turn out to be a non-Warranty item. He would still have the option to take his Edge someplace else for repair. However, the current facts are that his car is still under Warranty. So therefore, for the most comprehensive coverage, he should take the car into a Ford Dealership to be diagnosed. If it is not a "brake pad problem" then there is a damn good chance it would be covered under Warranty. I would certainly hope you would not disagree with that sensible advice. You do agree that CE should bring his car to a Ford Dealer for proper diagnosis and service, especially since it is still under Warranty, right? Well, that is all I was trying to say. The rest is up to CE, and I respect whatever decision he and his company may make. Hope all of the above information makes my reply a bit easier for you to understand. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi CE. :D Before I continue, let me say upfront that I am not trying to tell you or your Company how to service your car. However, there is a 3 year/36,000 mile Warranty on the Edge (in the U.S). Since you quote your mileage in kilometers, perhaps you are in Canada and I am not sure at the moment what the Canadian Warranty is, but it must be similar. I must politely disagree with your assumption that "With 47,000 km and over a year old there is not likely to be any warranty issue." It could very well be a Warranty covered issue. In fact, that is more likely than not. Since your Edge is not even two years old and has less than 36,000 miles, the best course of action is usually to bring it to the Dealership for service. In this way, the Dealership can check for the latest TSB's and other inside information that is sometimes only available to Ford Service Technicians, but not necessarily available to outside Service Shops. This may be a problem that could have been taken care of at a Ford Dealer in the first visit. By taking it to the Ford Dealer, if the problem is Warranty covered (which most are in the first 3 years/36,000 miles) then there obviously is no charge. If it is not covered by Warranty and there would be an out-of-pocket charge, all you need to do is inform the Service Writer ahead of time (when you dropped your car off) not to perform any non-Warranty repairs without contacting you first. Have it noted on the Repair/Work Order. Then once you are contacted, you can decide whether to have it Dealer repaired or repaired at your Independent Service Shop. This is what I do. Additionally, since the vast majority of vehicles a Ford Dealer services are Ford vehicles (obviously), the Ford Service Techs are more familiar with Ford vehicles and their particular strong points and weak points. An independent Service Shop, no matter how competent and "reasonable" may not have that familiarity (or information access), unless they only specialize in Ford vehicles. Again as I stated upfront, I am not trying to force you to do something your Company does not allow. But since your car is still covered under the Bumper to Bumper Warranty, a visit to the Dealer would be your best course of action. Just trying to help you get this taken care of as quickly as possible. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D As akirby stated, glass breakage is covered under the "Comprehensive" portion of an Insurance Policy, not "Collision". Insurance rates would not rise for a glass breakage claim due to road debris. I did not mention Insurance coverage because I assume that calise (the OP) is intelligent enough to place an Insurance claim (or at least check his/her policy) if the windshield replacement is not covered under Warranty. Many States (not sure where calise lives) require Insurance companies to replace windshield glass with no deductible. Otherwise, the Policy stated Comprehensive Deductible will apply. I am also not sure about Canadian Insurance Law. So as you guys have mentioned, if the cracked windshield is not Warranty covered, the next course of action for calise will be to check the "Comprehensive" portion of his/her Insurance Policy concerning glass breakage. Then call your Agent or Insurance Company Representative for claims information. Then file a claim if it is recoverable on your Policy. On a side note, the only time a broken windshield would be replaced under the "Collision" portion of a policy would be if it was broken in a collision type of accident. Some examples of that would obviously be: Run into a tree, other car, pole, building etc, and smash your front end and break the windshield. Then the windshield would be replaced along with the rest of the damage under the "Collision" portion of Policy coverage. But in that case a broken windshield is usually the least of the problems and damages. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi calise. :D The short answer: Essentially, any windshield damage caused by flying debris, road hazards, accidents, vandalism etc etc, are not covered under the New Car Warranty. So if the damage was caused by an object hitting the windshield, it is not covered under Warranty. If it is damage caused by stress/flexing of the windshield (i.e. a stress crack), there is limited coverage for the first 12 months with no mileage limit. The longer answer: You do not mention what year your Edge is. It is important to know. Also, did you buy it new or used? The reason I ask is that there is a 3 year/36,000 mile New Car Bumper to Bumper Warranty. Everyone gets that. There is no such thing as a Ford offered or backed "Gold Package Factory Bumper to Bumper Warranty". This sounds more like a selling tool offered by your Dealer, and since it is not a Ford backed Warranty we would have no idea what that individual Dealer may offer as a "Gold Package". Concerning windshield damage, what Ford covers is clear. The following cut and paste is from the Owners Manual concerning cracked windshields. These are examples of windshield damages that are not covered by Warranty: - stone chips, scratches (some examples are on paint and glass) - windshield stress cracks. However, limited coverage on windshield stress cracks will be provided for the first 12 months in service, regardless of miles driven, even though caused by use and/or exposure to the elements. And of course, the aforementioned road debris damage. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi CE. :D Of course, Internet diagnosis is shaky at best, completely inaccurate at worst, but: If you have a constant squeal/noise, even with no brake application as you are describing, it sounds like more than brake pad contamination. Has the Dealer checked for sticking calipers or wheel bearing problems? I know you seem to not be happy with your Dealership, have you tried having your car serviced at another Dealership? Just shots in the Internet dark here. Keep us updated and good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Barry. :D Oh well, I figured the Silicone Lubricant trick was worth a shot. There are some fasteners at the bottom and sides of the panes. Not as many as your old Mustang though. Pick up the specialized fastener removal tool at your local Auto Parts Store. Just costs few dollars and works better than prying at them with a screwdriver. Just be careful. If you damage anything while removing the door panel, it obviously may not be covered under Warranty, if the Dealer realizes you did it. I realize you know this, but though I would play it safe and mention it anyway. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi KMAN and Lex. :D Unfortunately, the Tracking Forum is no longer operating. If you take a look, you will notice that none of the threads are being answered. "ViperPilot" The Ford Employee who used to voluntarily do the tracking on his own time, decide to stop after receiving grief from certain ungrateful short term forum members. He (ViperPilot) has a post explaining that he no longer performs tracking, but most people do not bother to read the "Read First" instructions and are still posting requests. While there are one or two Ford Employees who do track vehicles once in a while, they only do it very sporadically and do not monitor the Vehicle Tracking Forum (as can be seen by all the unanswered tracking requests). Actually, the Blue Oval Forums Moderators should simply shut the Tracking Forum down, to avoid confusion. Perhaps they eventually will. Or perhaps they are hoping ViperPilot has a change of heart? :hyper: Just don't want you posting there and wondering why you get no answer/help, KMAN. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi CE. :D Many brake squeal type noises are caused by some type of contaminant getting onto the stopping surface of the brake pad and squealing when the pad is applied to the rotor surface. You can sometimes clean the pad surface by performing a couple of high speed, emergency type stops. Find a safe, deserted place to do this. Zero traffic and no pedestrians for your safety and the safety of others. Simply perform two or three emergency type stops from 60 mph to 0 mph. And true emergency type stops, not leisurely 60 to 0 stops. See if that helps and let us know. Good luck. :beerchug: