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Hi flyer. Here is the reference you wanted. I took a few minutes to look up the regulations. It is the Federal Regulations requiring posting of additives on the pump for the consumer. In all 50 States, no exceptions: For those familiar with Federal regulations, they will know that Federal regulations override/supersede any and all state regulation (or lack of regulation) that may exist. In fact, if you read the other pages, it specifically forbids any State from implementing any law attempting to supersede these regulations. In other words, these regulations are the final word. Here is the Federal guidelines home page - LINK: Federal Fuel Regulations Homepage And here is the particular sub-link dealing with additive (including ethanol) postings on the pump - LINK: Fuel Additive Labeling Regulations So setting aside any arguments over semantics concerning whether it is Federal Law, State Law, both or just plain the law, the pumps in NJ must have the amount of ethanol posted. That is the law. This is the perfect example of the point I was trying to make concerning that "ethanol testing" website you linked to. Even if they were correct concerning States that do not have specific laws themselves requiring "ethanol labeling", they were still being disingenuous/dishonest, since whether a state does/does not require ethanol/oxygenate labeling, the Federal Government does. In every state. All 50. And again, if any gas station does not label the pumps properly in NJ (or any State), they are still breaking the law and should be reported. But the law is the law. This is why it is not wise to accept information contained on sales pitch websites (which are primarily trying to sell us something) as official sources and references. Their first order of business is to sell something, not provide accurate information for us poor slobs. They simply want our money. I hope we can now put this to rest and move on. No hard feelings on my side. Good luck.

Hi flyer. It is only a discussion over a a simple disagreement. I do not ask for nor expect an apology. Just be polite. Again, this is not a freshman debate contest. No points scored for being correct or incorrect. There is no need to make this a bigger thing than need be. All I ask is you skip the rudeness. Direct is okay, rude is not. So, to make it clear, I do not "seem to think that you (I) are the final authority on interpetation (sic) that suits your agenda". In fact, I have no agenda other than providing correct information. Simple as that. Again however, and stating it as politely as possible, a sales pitch site is not a valid reference to anyone familiar with providing corroborating evidence. You are willing to accept it as proof. Knowing differently, I do not. Now, until further proof is found, on either side of the discussion, we can leave it to others to decide what is correct. Ironically though, who cares? Again, ethanol is a fact of life for now. As long as we are not rude, we can discuss things politely. An official State or Official website which states that it is or is not required is a valid reference. Whether that proves you or me correct, either way. In the meantime, as I stated earlier, pumps in NJ must state either the percentage of ethanol, or that the fuel being dispensed is "Oxygenated". And ethanol is the oxygenating agent in fuel nowadays (it used to be MTBE, another great gasoline debacle). So if the pump states that the fuel is "Oxygenated" it contains ethanol. Bottom line: Until one of us provides an official State website that lays out the State guidelines, I do not expect you to believe me. The difference is I am not getting upset, nor am I being rude. So like I said, just skip the rudeness and agree to disagree, like adults, until some valid information can be cited or linked to. I am a quite reasonable individual, and will discuss anything with other reasonable individuals. But once that line is crossed, then they re on their own. When we or someone else finds some official references, then we will have an answer that suits everyone (especially you). Until then, it is certain that neither of us is going to convince the other. That is why adults agree to disagree. Having said that, as long as things are kept polite from here on, I will assume that this may have all been a big misunderstanding.

Hello again, flyer. This is a simple discussion as to whether posting of ethanol percentages is or is not law in NJ, not a debate on the cure for cancer. You seem to be more interested in starting an argument with someone who does not want to argue. Again, I have been polite to you. You have not been polite. And oddly enough, to prove that you have not been rude, you choose to ratchet up the rudeness? Direct and rude are two different approaches. Yours is direct and rude. Again, the simple fact is, your referenced link is not a valid reference. No matter how many times you ignore the fact that your reference is nothing more than a sales pitch site, it does not change the facts. Hell, if I did not know the law, I would even take someone's word before the I would accept the word of a biased sales pitch website. And having possibly been on the Internet for more years than you may have been alive, I have very good knowledge of what rude is. And you are getting ruder with each reply. And by the way, you are asking for a reference, not a "disclaimer". In addition, my replies have been very subject oriented. And even though I am correct, I would not ask for an apology. Again, we are simply here to provide information for others, not win some sort of freshman debate contest. I have been providing information here for a long time, always politely to those who are polite in return. You seem to think that you can impress people by a show of temper and rudeness. Other members here can decide who is providing the correct information. In the meantime, if I or anyone else should find any information (on an official website, not sales pitch sites for ethanol testing kits) I am sure they will jump in to provide a link. I am even adult enough to post a correcting site if I find it, even though it would prove me incorrect. But the one you provided is not a valid site to corroborate your side. Sorry. Other than that, you certainly are not owed an apology, since I was not rude to you, I simply corrected incorrect information. Bottom line is I feel it is best for us to agree to disagree, since I can see no good come of us talking to each other in your current state. And again, it just does not matter. I'll skip the "good luck", since that seems to bother you.

Hi flyer. I always wish people luck in all of my posts. It is called being polite to people. It is the way you should always treat people, even when you have the "protection" of Internet anonymity. It is how adults behave. Only cowards treat people differently when not face to face. Adults also skip rude remarks like "sorry to rain on your parade", since with 9 posts and being here less than three weeks, you are not impressing anyone with rudeness. There are enough rude people on the Internet without adding to the riff-raff. We are here to help each other with information, not win debate contests. And as I explained, your reference is no reference at all. It is a sales pitch for a product. And as I also explained, if a station in NJ does not post the ethanol content (if it contains ethanol at all), they should be reported to the state. The fact that a gas station may break the law does not change the existence of the law itself. If you were speeding today, that does not eliminate the existence of laws against speeding. I am quite familiar with the NJ law. You refer to a site trying to sell a product as a reference. People can now choose what they would like to believe. In the end, it does not matter either way. Ethanol is a fact of life for now. If you want to be treated as an adult, treat people politely, as I have been treating you politely. Good luck.

Hi flyer. :D First, that information is obsolete/outdated. Or, as it clearly states in the fine print: "Note: State fuel laws and guidelines change constantly,especially with ethanol distribution. So always check your states laws directly for updates." Second, that website is a marketing site to sell a product, i.e. kits to test for ethanol/ethanol content in fuel. It is a scare tactic site. They have a vested interest in selling a product, not providing the latest information. Third, my previous reply was presented in a very polite manner. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi flyerjmr. I cannot comment for other States, but that information pertaining to NJ is incorrect. :D It is State law in New Jersey that if the fuel contains ethanol, the pump must display a sign stating the percentage of ethanol. So you will normally see a small sign stating "The fuel delivered from this pump contains 10% ethanol", "This pump dispenses Oxygenated fuel" or some other words to that effect. However, if there is no ethanol there will be no sign saying "This fuel contains 0% ethanol". Now, that does not mean that all gas stations follow the the law. In that case, they should be reported to the State. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi d-dmusic. :D What you are talking about is the "Perimeter Lamps Illuminated Entry" system. You must have accidentally overlooked the instructions for disabling/enabling, as they are in the Owners Manual. In the 2008 Manual, they are located on page 138-139, in the "Locks and Security" section. And yes, please give your father-in-law an extra shot for the rest of us. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Depiry. :D As mentioned above, is a "Perimeter Alarm System" (or any alarm system) listed on the Window Sticker? That would be one possible way to check. If you want to try something hands on (not sure how you checked before, since unlocking the car with the key disables the alarm), here is another: Leave the drivers side window down. Step outside the car and lock the doors with the remote. Wait about two minutes (to play it safe, although it should arm immediately). Then reach in through the drivers window and open the door using the inside door handle. If an alarm goes off, you have the Perimeter Alarm System. If it does not, you don't. . Just as an FYI for you and others: The blinking light on the dashboard has nothing to do with an alarm (on factory built systems). The blinking light is solely linked to the Securilock PATS (Passive Anti-Theft System). That is the chip located in the IKT key/remote. It has to do with the ignition being enabled/disabled and Securilock PATS readiness. Operation of the Perimeter Alarm and Securilock PATS systems are explained in great detail in the Owners Manual. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tlim. :D Essentially, slightly firmer spring rates and shocks. Most of the Sport Package is visual, wheels, etc. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi tlim. :D Yes, 18" wheels will fit on the Edge Sport. Are you thinking of using them as winter wheels? Concerning offset: I am not sure what the offset is of the Edge Sport's standard 20x7.5" wheel is, in order to calculate the usable offset range for an 18x8.5" wheel. If I can find it, I will post back, if someone else hasn't. However, even if I or someone else does give you any further information, I would strongly recommend that you check with a Professional Wheel Distributor like The Tire Rack or Discount Tire for information like this, instead of Internet strangers. No matter what I or anyone else told you here, it would be wise to check with a professional before purchasing anyway. Just my opinion (and what I would do myself). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jorge. :D Paint/repair costs can vary widely by region. You are in Texas and I am not too familiar with the costs there, so I will give an educated guess compared to the my region of the US. Everything I reply from here on assumes that the "scratches" are not removable/repairable by wet-sanding/compounding or other do it yourself types of paint repair, and that the bumper must be repainted (only you can determine that). First, if you are the least bit picky, the job can not be done properly without removing the bumper cover from the car. So the bumper cover will need to be removed from the vehicle and completely repainted. For a proper job, the damaged area should not be spot painted. Assuming there is no damage underneath, then the fog light cover is an inexpensive piece (maybe $20 or less) to replace and can be ordered from the Dealership or any of several online Ford Parts Retailers. My guesstimate for a complete bumper cover removal, repair and repainting? Approximately $600 (or more) for a good job. Of course, you could go cheap, but as chewydawg stated, "...then what do you have?" And again, this is just an educated guess on vehicle damages which I have not seen, and taking into account several rear bumper light-scratch repair/repainting estimates for my wife's car after it was rear-ended. In the end, while I know your time is short, your best bet is to go to a few Collision repair shops for estimates. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDITED - Reply removed. I initially answered before I noticed it was an old post which I had previously replied to.

Hi Eddie. :D First, you are welcome and glad I could help. Second, I would ask you to take a deep breath at the moment. Everyone (akirby included) was trying to help answer your initial question (I quoted it above), which only asked if the system could be programmed to lock the doors on start-up, on pressing of the brake pedal, and/or the shifter being moved into "D", etc.. The answer to that question was simply "No". If you look back, you never actually asked in any of your posts if the "AutoLock" function could be turned off. The only reason I even mentioned that "AutoLock" could be disabled was more or less by accident, since I assumed you may already know that (since it is covered in the Owners Manual). He was only trying to help. Yes, his answer also expressed an opinion that you may not have wanted, but it did answer the initial question. And since it is the Internet, sometimes people do express an opinion with their answers. Generally, no big harm if it is done politely. In the end, it was simply a misunderstanding that will go away if we don't get abusive. It happens to all of us sooner or later. Please understand, it is nobody's fault. It was just an Internet misunderstanding, so no sense any of us going too far with it. Or as pxb006 so succinctly stated it, "Sheesh, can't we all just get along?" :grouphug: Hope you understand the point I am trying to make. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Just to express my opinion: While I also think it would make sense to have the "AutoLock" function activate on shifting into "D", I myself would not disable it completely, since it is still better to have the doors lock at 12 mph than not at all. Eliminates having to remember to lock the doors manually every time we drive away. Again, just my opinion.

Hi Eddie. :D Currently, there are only two settings possible with the "AutoLock" feature: "On", which locks after two seconds at 12 mph, or "Off" which completely disables the feature. Obviously, if the "AutoLock" feature is turned off, you must manually press the lock buttons (power or regular buttons). There is currently no third option, and no known "hack" to give a third option. If you check your Owners Manual, you will find the instructions for disabling and enabling the feature. Look in the Index under "Locks", then "Autolock". Sorry and good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT - Another case of typing a reply at the same time as the previous poster. Some of my information is now repetitive. Hi feelin edgy. :D If it occurs on bumps/uneven roads etc, there is a chance it is a loose wiring harness or electrical connector that is rattling around behind the dash. As others can probably testify to, these things are difficult to pin down. Sound has a tendency to "travel", making the source hard to ascertain. As druck pointed out, I would definitely recommend trying another Dealer for help. No reason you should get an answer like "You will have to live with it for less than $100,000" from the Tech. In the mean time, you could try a little bit of self-help. Look under the dash and see if there are any loose wiring harnesses, connectors or other problem areas. If there are, use a little electrical tape or foam to insulate/tighten things up. But definitely find a new Dealership for your service. And when you find a new one that you are satisfied with, let the old one know why you were dissatisfied with their service. Politely of course. Let us know what you find out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi PJFW8. :D You are welcome. While it certainly won't completely eliminate the glare issue, it may help a little. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi PJFW8. :D After looking at the pictures, I agree. It seems to be more of a glare issue than a "lighting" problem. In addition to the window tinting, I have another suggestion. The gauge cover/lens seems to be a bit dirty/dusty. Have you cleaned the gauge cover/lens lately? Over time, it will get that same film, dust etc which dirties the inside of the windows. You will be surprised how much that will add to the glare problem. Use a small, very soft, 100% cotton or automotive microfiber towel (I use 100% cotton) and spray the automotive glass cleaner (no ammonia!) directly on the small towel. You spray the cleaner on the towel instead of the lens to avoid having the cleaner run down into the cluster. Then wipe very gently (pressing or rubbing hard will cause scratches) and then dry with a second towel of the same type (again, very gently). Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDIT - Hi rryan, I was typing my reply below at the same time Lex was answering above, so had not yet seen his reply before posting mine. I formulated my reply with the assumption you had already tried the reset button. If not, try the reset button. If that does not work, try my suggestions. Hi rryan. :D There is no built-in way to reset the "Distance to Empty" readout. It should have automatically reset once the ignition was turned to the off position then turned to the on position or the car restarted. I know this is a silly question, but did you try that? If you already tried that, how long ago did this happen, and approximately how many times have you restarted the car since the original problem surfaced? This would be my recommendations, in order of preference: Fill the tank. Then drive the car for another day or two and see if several restarts and driving cycles reset the readout. If it does not I would make an appointment for service to have the problem corrected. If you are out of Warranty or are the type of individual who likes to avoid going to the Dealer at all costs, you can try disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, then reconnecting the battery. This will reset certain Engine Management Parameters. If the drive cycles and/or battery disconnect do not work, then you have no choice but to schedule a Dealer Service visit. Before disconnecting the battery: If you choose to try disconnecting the battery, first read the section in your Owners Manual about disconnecting or replacing your battery. There is a specific procedure that needs to be followed after disconnecting the battery so that your vehicle can relearn the correct Idle Trim and other engine parameters. If you do not follow this procedure, your car will not run correctly until the Idle Trim is relearned on its own, which will take longer. However, as mentioned above, first fill the tank and give it a day or two and several restarts/drive cycles to see if the problem corrects itself. Let us know the outcome. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi TN_Yank. :D As BlazedUp stated, "...this is B.S.". There is no treatment or "special finish" that can be applied to a cars paint finish that will last for the life of the car. In fact, not even for a year (if you care about your cars appearance and paint longevity). All automotive paint finishes will need to be cleaned, waxed or treated in some way (at the very least). Usually at least twice a year (and preferably much more often and sometimes with additional paint care products, if you care about your cars appearance). You can get some great automotive detailing care tips at these three sites: LINK: Meguiar's LINK: Autopia LINK: Mother's If you read the "How-to", "Detailing", "FAQ" and other related sections, you will find a wealth of information. While there are many of us here who can give you plenty of advice, you will find much more information on those websites than we can ever give to you in short Internet posts. Of course, there are other great websites for car care tips, and I am sure others will give you some good places to look. But in the mean time, this is a good place to start. But again, to put it politely, your Dealer is absolutely incorrect. :gang: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Grey. :D Just to add a heads up: I do not know for sure and am not contradicting anyone. However, since no one is absolutely sure to this point, I would advise double-checking before ordering. While the steel body panels are similar (even exactly the same), the front and in this case rear fascias do differ. And the rear bumper shape may vary enough to make fit questionable. It may very well fit, but you may want to go to a Ford Dealer and park your MKX next to an Edge and compare bumpers first, especially if the piece is non-refundable. Even if refundable, it may be less hassle to stop and compare bumpers than have to ship the piece back. Just a thought. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi esseffe. :D As Hydro correctly stated, these types of concerns have been discussed here in the past. How useful what has been previously discussed is up for discussion/debate though, as Internet diagnosis is always an iffy proposition at best. That being said, your best course of action may be to bring your Edge to another Dealership for a second opinion. In the end you will need to do that anyway, so might as well skip us non-professional (for the most part) middlemen. The reason I say this? It is entirely possible that your current Dealer is correct. On the other hand, it seems that they like to say "This is normal" for a large variety of problems. The first two problems with the engine/transmission are hard to diagnose over the Internet. What you are hearing and feeling is difficult to ascertain by us. As the Owners Manual states, a bit of pinging "once in a while" can be considered normal. But there are varying levels of pinging, from minimal to harmful. And it should not ping all the time. And you should not need to use premium fuel. In fact, our Owners Manual specifically state not to use premium fuel, as it can cause other problems. And most cases of transmission slippage between shifts would not be considered "normal". The popping in the suspension? A "popping sound in the suspension over anything more than the smallest bump in the road" is not normal. So, I would recommend a second opinion from another Ford Dealership. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi PJFW8. :D I feel your pain brother. I feel your pain. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi PJFW8. :D Not trying to be a wiseguy, because I have no idea how old you or your wife are, but has she had her eyes checked lately? And it does not even have to be a question of age, lots of young people wear (or need) glasses too. When many people get to the point that they need glasses, they insist that everything else is changing, when it is actually their eyes/vision that are changing. That is why you will always overhear people who need glasses (but swear that they do not) insisting that the dates on coins are now being printed smaller, newspapers are saving money by printing smaller, books and manuals are being printed smaller, the lights on the dashboard are too dim at twilight etc etc. In reality it is not all of those things getting smaller or dimmer, it is our eyesight getting worse. Of course, glasses may not be the answer, but it is something to think about. And certainly cheaper than "dumping the car" Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi baumgardner. :D I would recommend checking the fuses again. According to the fuse panel diagrams, the "left low beam headlamps" fuse is fuse #7 in the passenger compartment fuse box. Since only the left low beam is out (I assume, since you do not mention the high beam), and the left and right low beams do operate from different fuses, there is a good chance that you may have missed the burnt out fuse. And just as a precautionary FYI: Even if it is the fuse, you still have not diagnosed what caused the fuse to blow. Fuses should not blow in a properly operating electrical system. So, is your Edge still covered under the 3 year/36,000 mile Warranty? It would be a good idea to have it professionally checked for other electrical problems to ascertain what caused the fuse to blow in the first place (or whatever the problem may be if not a fuse). Let us know what you find out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Rich. :D I don't know of any similar wheel offhand, but here is my recommendation: Go to the websites of online wheel retailers such as The Tire Rack LINK: The Tire Rack and Discount Tire LINK: Discount Tire. Use the search tools on those websites to search for all 20" wheels that fit the Edge. See if either carries a wheel that resembles the 22" Sport wheels. The Tire Rack even has a virtual viewer where you can view available wheels on an Edge, for comparison purposes. It is very handy and will help you find something that fits your needs. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug: