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Hi pricetag. :D No, not likely. Over tightening of the oil filters at the factory seems to be a relatively common problem nowadays. Most likely yours was accidentally overtightened like the rest. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jrace. :D Concerning Factory Invoice Pricing: First, the Dealer is generally correct. Invoice price is only approximately $2,000 less than MSRP on a vehicle priced like the Edge. But that difference will vary according to the price of the individual vehicle. The higher the MSRP, the larger the difference between Factory Invoice Price and MSRP. Here are two examples: I took a quick look and on an Edge that MSRP's for $33,225, the Invoice Price is $31,426 (a difference of $1,799). But on an Edge that MSRP's for $42,000, the Invoice Price is $39,281 (a difference of $2,719). So as you can see, the MSRP of your chosen vehicle will make a big difference in the MSRP/Factory Invoice price difference. Next, to find out an approximate Factory Invoice Price for an Edge equipped the way you are planning on buying, go to a site like Edmunds.com or KBB.com and use their online tools to work up pricing on your chosen Edge. Next, if you read the fine print on those Edmunds and KBB type websites, you will see that their Factory Invoice pricing does not include certain proprietary Ford charges that they have no access to ((Destination/Freight etc.) so add about $300 or so to the Factory Invoice price those sites list. That will get you in the general ballpark. Also, keep in mind that once you negotiate your initial purchase price, then you are entitled to have any Cash Incentives/Rebates deducted from the negotiated price. The Incentives/Rebates should not be figured into the purchase until after the price has been negotiated. Those Incentives are essentially "freebies" from Ford, so do not let the Dealer try to deduct them up front. Concerning price negotiations with the Dealership: First, do not base your price negotiations/offers on the MSRP price. Base your negotiations/offers using the Factory Invoice Price. So start off by offering them $200 below Factory Invoice Price. Expect to have them counteroffer somewhere above Invoice. Then keep negotiating until you get a price that you are happy with (keeping in mind the "Law of Diminishing Returns"). Also, shop and negotiate at more than one Dealership. Of course, these are just quick and simpe answers to your questions, so feel free to ask us any other questions you may have. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi nc_edge. :D According to the Lincoln website, it sounds like you may have seen an MKX equipped with the "Midnight Limited Edition Package". It includes: - Monochromatic body color grille available exclusively in Tuxedo Black - 22" bright polished aluminum wheels with sport-tuned suspension. - "Limited Edition" vehicle badge - Unique Lincoln Star etched headlamp lenses - Premium leather-trimmed seats in Charcoal Black with Charcoal Black piping and Lincoln Star stitched into front-row head restraints - Ebony wood grain appliqués - Ebony floor carpet and Premium floor mats with logo (Available exclusively in Tuxedo Black) Requires Ultimate Package. Not available with Monochrome Limited Edition or Limited Edition Packages. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

You're welcome sadnes. :D Glad we were able to brighten your day a bit! :hyper: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi sadnes. :D No, the power window lockout switch does not illuminate. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ddoc. :D You are very welcome. Best of luck with your new Edge! :beerchug:

Hi ddoc. :D Just curious: Who told you that, one of the Salesmen? Whoever it was, do not take automotive advice from them anymore. Since that is not one of the features of the Edge, I would assume you have already discovered that the mirror does not "return to starting spot when the car is put in drive". What it seems is happening is someone programmed your keyfob to the seat/mirror "memory" positions. Instead of typing this out, here is what you should do: Go to your Owners Manual and read the sections concerning programming/activating/deactivating of the memory seat features and IKT (keyob). In the pdf version, this begins on page 112. Here is a copy and paste excerpt of the activation/deactivation instructions, but there is much more information there that is valuable to know: Activating the memory feature To activate this feature: 1. Position the seat and mirrors to the desired positions. 2. Press and hold either the 1 or 2 control on the driver’s door for five seconds. (A tone will be heard after 11⁄2 seconds when the memory store is done) continue to hold until a second tone is heard after five seconds. 3. Within three seconds press the control on the Integrated Keyhead Transmitter. 4. A tone will be heard when the activation is complete. 5. Repeat this procedure for another Integrated Keyhead Transmitter if desired. Deactivating the memory feature To deactivate this feature: 1. Press and hold either the 1 or 2 control on the driver’s door for five seconds. (A tone will be heard after 11⁄2 seconds when the memory store is done) continue to hold until a second tone is heard after five seconds. 2. Within three seconds press the control on the Integrated Keyhead Transmitter. 3. A tone will be heard when the deactivation is complete. 4. Repeat this procedure for another Integrated Keyhead Transmitter if desired. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi all. :D And just so people who might be interested don't get too discouraged: To access the grille fasteners, it is only necessary to remove the front fascia (i.e. the bumper cover) not the entire bumper assembly. As Loosecannon states above, it is simply held on by a bunch of easily removable fasteners. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi druck. :D I respect your opinion and you may very well be correct. If he would simply show a bit of gratitude once in a while, or at least skip the complaint-fests when provided information that is meant to help, things would be fine. But unfortunately, just as you have been severely disrespected by a few wayward members who like to insult Techs in the past (remember when we PM'd each other?), Lex has had a habit of demonstrating unnecessary ingratitude to me (at this point I will only speak for myself, not others). I have never needed or asked for his assistance, but he has taken advantage of mine in some instances. Notice druck, that I have been very polite in speaking to you, and in describing my gripe with him. But in the past in circumstances such as this, I usually get attacked for my effort. As I said druck, maybe he was on the correct path. However, it is his method that is rude and sometimes intolerable. And as you got tired when needlessly attacked in the past, I have reached that point also. You are a helpful forum member, and I respect you for it. And I hope your information helps too. That is all I was trying to do in the first place. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - And druck, I will ask you since you are a Tech: The passage in the Owners Manual stating that "If the power liftgate is opening, the system will stop and a chime will sound 3 times when an obstacle is detected. Once the obstacle is removed, the liftgate can again be operated normally" would lead me to believe that could be another possible cause. If something is blocking the gate from fully opening (a bent lift arm perhaps), the chime will sound three times. Or possibly if a sensor is giving a false reading, the same symptoms would occur. Just Internet diagnosing, what are your thoughts?

Hi BU. First: My sister and next door neighbor both own Edges. I assisted them in their purchase on the A and X-Plan and I do much of their routine maintenance in my spare time, just to help them out. Part of that assistance sometimes includes reading the Owners Manual. Second of all, when I do "copy and paste" information, it is from the Edge Owners Manual, not an MKZ Owners Manual. For your information, just as a start, MKZ's do not have power liftgates (or any sort of liftgate, it is a 4 door sedan). You are thinking of the MKX, and the liftgates for the Edge and MKX work exactly the same. But as I just pointed out, that is irrelevant anyway. And contrary to what some people here seem to believe, there is nothing wrong with reading the Owners Manual. Last I checked, we are all here to help each other. Did not know that there was a scorekeeper. Even if there is remember that your personal score is solely yours. We all help people in our fields of expertise. And again, I treat everyone with respect until they treat me rudely. This is not my first problem with Lex. I have assisted him in the past and never asked for his assistance for anything in return. In fact, I had him PM'ing me constantly at one point for all sorts of X-Plan purchasing information. I never failed to politely answer all of his inquiries (sometimes the same inquiries, over and over). But as in the past, this was the usual thanks. Eventually a person gets tired of it. Since you are not familiar with the entire situation, I have answered you politely. And even though you felt the need (for some reason) to unnecessarily join in an attack, I would still assist you politely in the future if I can (so far). EDIT PS - And by the way, something that almost got lost in all of the histrionics about the "reset procedure": If you carefully read that cut and paste from the Edge Owners Manual that some of you hate so much, you will see that the answer to your problem may still be described in there.

Hi Centerliner. :D As 07CRUSH recommended, have the Dealer show you the "original copy" of the Factory Invoice. On that Factory Invoice is a box labeled "A-Plan". The price in that box is the "Employee Price". I have not yet read the specifics of the "Employee Pricing Incentive" so do not know it has the same limitations as when an actual Employee purchases vehicle (i.e. no Dealer added Fees or Charges allowed other than a $75 maximum Documentation Fee"). Nevertheless, keep in mind that the A-Plan (Employee) Price already includes "Destination", "Delivery" and any other Ford Motor Company related fees and charges. My advice is the same as 07's concerning a Dealer who will not show you the Factory Invoice with the A-Plan Price clearly shown (no altered or handwritten figures): If they will not show it to you , then they plan on ripping you off. So walk away. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi outlaw. :D That all depends on several variables, none of which we have the answers to. The Edge Owners Manual contains very specific instructions concerning towing with Class I (2,800-3,000 lbs. would be overweight) or Class II (you would be at the upper limits) equipment. It would be best if you read the Manual and used the information contained in it. There are weight charts and other very important towing recommendations. In the pdf version of the 2008 Edge Owners Manual, the instructions begin on page 225. For your Edge, look in the Owners Manual Index under "Towing". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi guys. :D Do not know if this will work for any of you , but it is worth a try: The Edge Owners Manual mentions a "three chimes" on opening condition if the "obstacle detection system" should be tripped. It also mentions a resetting procedure for the rear liftgate. Perhaps if you try following the reset procedure, it may eliminate your problems. Here is a copy and paste from that section: Obstacle detection The power liftgate system is equipped with an obstacle detection feature. If the power liftgate is closing, the system will reverse to full open when it detects an obstacle. A chime will sound 3 times when an obstacle is detected as the liftgate begins to reopen. Once the obstacle is removed, the liftgate can be closed under power. If the power liftgate is opening, the system will stop and a chime will sound 3 times when an obstacle is detected. Once the obstacle is removed, the liftgate can again be operated normally. Resetting the power liftgate: The power liftgate may not operate properly and may need to be reset if any of these conditions occur: • a low voltage or dead battery or disconnected battery • the liftgate has been left open or unlatched for more than six (6) hours To reset the power liftgate: 1. Ensure the battery is properly connected and charged. 2. Manually close and fully latch the liftgate. 3. Power open the liftgate by using the integrated keyhead transmitter, or the instrument panel control button. The outside liftgate control button can also be used if the power liftgate is enabled in the Message Center. Note: If the battery is disconnected, discharged, or a new battery is installed, the power liftgate needs to be power opened to the full open position to reset the power liftgate positions. As stated above, it may not be the answer, but I figured it was worth a try. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Steve. Short answer: Yes, you can use the Pirelli's on your new wheels. More in depth answer: Every major tire manufacturer has a section of their website where they list the specs for each and every model and size tire they make. Among other things, the Spec section will also list the minimum/maximum wheel width range allowed for a particular tire model and width. For example, it may say that for the Pirelli Scorpions P245/50R20 has a recommended wheel width range of 7" - 9.5" (just an example). I know The Tire Rack lists those Specs and would assume Discount Tire also does. But you are safe, if you want to skip the research part. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi OnEdge2. :D Welcome to the Edge Forums! Just a suggestion to assist you in getting your question answered: In case you had not noticed, this thread was last active almost a year ago. The last reply previous to yours was 7/24/2008. It is up to you, but you may get a better response on your "knocking in the doors" question if you start your own new post/thread and give it a title/subject of "Knocking in the doors", or something similar. Again, just a suggestion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jr. :D Of course you can change the Sirius channel while in Drive. And the radio stations just as in any other car. What you can not do is change the destination in the NAV system using the touch controls while in Drive. However, you can change the system using the verbal commands. If you decide to buy, you will love your new Edge. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Kanatronic. :D I certainly understand your frustration and that you expected something different than you received. I hope you can resolve this to your satisfaction. However, I did want to point out one thing (so you do not think I am crazy or making things up): Although you now state that you "did not say anything about to hide it", you actually did say that the sunshade was "hard to hide in any place while folded" (the last sentence in Post #12). The quotes from your last two replies are above. No big deal, but I wanted to be sure you realized that I did not just make it up and that you did say it is "hard to hide". That was why I addressed that concern in my reply. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Verhalas. :D Yes, it is a good price. Of course, it never hurts to ask for a little more off the price. The other than price, only two questions I would ask (of which you answered one) would be: How many miles are on it (to be sure it is not a high mileage demo vehicle), and is it in pristine/new condition. You answered the mileage question (25) so you just need to be sure that there is nothing wrong with it, since it has been on the lot for some time. Let us know that you decide to do. Good luck. :beerchug:

Uh, Willard. Perhaps you should reread the thread. I have made absolutely no assertions, in any of my replies, concerning "how to best recover from overstearing/skidding or understearing/plowing." That would be another of our forums long standing, helpful and respected members you are railing at. :shades: Oh by the way, I (and surely everyone else) can read the standard font size just fine (in my case, even without glasses). So you might want to tone down the large font size and red coloring. No need to lose your cool, plus the "extreme" fonts and colors make your "opinion" no more convincing than before. Would not want you to have a coronary. While your "opinions" are certainly off the wall and far from the norm, I certainly wish you no ill. So again from my previous post: Hello again Willard. Well then, I tell you what: To save a lot of needless debate over easily researched information, I'll make a deal with you. Over the next few years we will both keep an eye out to see if the ABS standards are changed. Maybe all the other forum members will join us in our task? If and when they are changed, one of us will have won the "bet" you spoke of and then we will know the "truth". An "open and logically minded" solution to a dead end situation. Good luck. In other words, to keep arguing at this point over easily researched facts and information would show that you are not here to help people. It would prove that you are one of those people that simply likes to endlessly argue with strangers on the Internet (and God knows where else). Hopefully, you do not want everyone to think you are another one of those people, because they are "a dime a dozen".

Hi Kanatronic. :D As I recommended the CoverCraft sunshade, I thought I would add a comment (or three or four) regarding your concerns (looking at things from a different perspective): While of course you are free to feel that you are not happy and request a refund, your notion of an "exact fit" is a bit off. Within an inch of all dimensions is an exact fit. Looking at this rationally: Even where you are complaining of a two inch gap, you say it is when you slide it to one side. That means when it is properly centered, there is about a one inch gap. That is approximately what I told you it was when I first recommended it. A sunshade can not fill every last millimeter of windshield. There must be room for the cover to be maneuvered into and out of position/place, often several times a day. With all due respect, this is a windshield sunshade, not a tailor-made suit. And of course the sunshade is not curved. No rigid sunshade would be. And it does not need to fit the curve of the windshield to work properly. And if it was curved, how would you expect to fold it up into a flat package? It would be a design nightmare. You are already complaining that "as folded it takes a good two inches thick". How thick would you imagine a curved sunshade would be when folded? You will not find any cover that fills every last inch of windshield and is curved to the shape of the windshield. Not even for $150. And it is not supposed to have a "mirror finish". The finish is highly reflective and does an excellent job. Next, why are you worried about "hiding it"? When I am not using my sunshade, I simply fold it, reach back and place it on the floor behind the front seats. Then when I park, I reach back and grab it to place in the windshield. If I have more than one passenger in the back seat, I simply place the sunshade in the trunk. I am not downplaying your concerns, but it has never been an inconvenience to me in 2 1/2 years. Do not take this the wrong way, but you are looking for $150 (or non-existent) features while simultaneously complaining that it costs $50. Again, I mean no disrespect and you are free to do as you like. I just think your expectations are a bit too high. If after reading my reply you are still dissatisfied, I am truly sorry that my recommendation was not to your liking. I was hoping you would be as happy with yours as I have been with mine. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Wow Willard, so now you are quoting Government printed brochures to back your assertions of a great Government FWD/AWD dangerous handling cover-up. Brochures which when read carefully, with an "open and logical mind" (to quote you), do not even back your extreme views. Willard you are joking I hope (not a question, just a statement). Actually either way, it does not matter. You should pick up a copy of the old Styx song, "Too Much Time On My Hands". It is perfect for you. Copied and pasted from my previous reply: Hello again Willard. Well then, I tell you what: To save a lot of needless debate over easily researched information, I'll make a deal with you. Over the next few years we will both keep an eye out to see if the ABS standards are changed. Maybe all the other forum members will join us in our task? If and when they are changed, one of us will have won the "bet" you spoke of and then we will know the "truth". An "open and logically minded" solution to a dead end situation. Good luck. And please be sure to let us know in a couple of years how the "Great ABS Conspiracy" is resolved. Fortunately for us, unfortunately for you (Dear God so unfortunately for you), we see the trend that you don't, Willard.

Hello again Willard. Well then, I tell you what: To save a lot of needless debate over easily researched information, I'll make a deal with you. Over the next few years we will both keep an eye out to see if the ABS standards are changed. Maybe all the other forum members will join us in our task? If and when they are changed, one of us will have won the "bet" you spoke of and then we will know the "truth". An "open and logically minded" solution to a dead end situation. Good luck.

Hi aligirl. :D You must have missed it. I just checked the PDF version of your Owners Manual and the instructions for enabling the RBDS and scrolling text seem to be there. Page 42 in the version I viewed. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Willard. You obviously do not have any scientific nor legal training Willard. If you did, you would realize that the burden of proof is on you. Your spurious arguments may work with the rest of the early-birds at Denny's, but not with us. You are the one claiming that "right is wrong", "black is white' and "safe is unsafe". Since you again claim all that is known by automotive experts and accepted as automotive fact is incorrect, the burden of proof is on you to provide corroboration. I do not need to prove that our cars are safe. We drive them safely everyday. You need to prove they are unsafe. To loosely use your analogy, I do not need to prove the Earth orbits the Sun (or that our vehicles are safe), since the experts (and the rest of us) already know that. You are spouting the new, unproven and backwards theory that the Sun orbits the Earth (since according to you, our vehicles are unsafe). So you need to prove your unproven theory. So to paraphrase you, "The rest of us are waiting". And just to show you how foolish you are beginning to sound: Since when is everyday driving an "extreme"? Everyday driving is the complete opposite of extreme. I guess anything that proves you incorrect is an extreme. Do not try and backtrack now. As I told you earlier, skip the word parsing. You are out of your league. And laughably (and briefly), all that you claim concerning ABS is also wrong. It is still an accepted fact that ABS is safer then non ABS equipped cars by anyone who does not hide in their basement with a tinfoil hat on so that the Government can not read their mind. Your cherry picked stat about "single vehicle run off the road accidents" is easily dispelled (and has been widely discredited as a anti-ABS argument). Actually, I am sure you already knew that, but Conspiracy Theorists always pretend that the facts do not matter, since they do not fit their anti government paranoia. Ironically, the only thing you got right is that the sun does not orbit the earth (since you like to word parse, planetary and universal bodies orbit, they do not "circle"). As I said earlier, you'll get one right once in a while and I guess that was your one. You are making a bigger and bigger fool of yourself. Other than that, as promised I will simply copy and paste my previous reply until you provide corroboration for your universally incorrect "opinions". So here it is again Willard (all bold and underlined): Hello again, Willard. I ask people to ignore both of us and do the research for themselves. That bothers you because you need a pulpit to spew forth your agenda. You want to play an endless game of "I'm right...you are wrong" because you enjoy it. For some odd reason you long for an argument with no resolution. I will no longer engage in that childishness with you. And your above reply makes it obvious that being ignored takes away that feeling of power you tend to enjoy, when you argue with strangers over the Internet. You claim that FWD and AWD vehicles (along with ABS and a host of other goodies) are unsafe for their engineered, designed, manufactured and intended purpose (e.g. everyday driving). Your claims attempt to contradict the accepted facts of any respected expert automotive source. When asked to provide some sort of link to corroborating evidence, you simply state that your opinion should be obvious to anyone (except the automotive experts I guess). Well, that means you are presenting yourself as an expert on the subject. And since you are doing so your references, background and motives are up for discussion and inspection. And they do not stand up well. This was your decision. While it is a shame that you are in the same predicament on several other forums, it is your doing, not mine. So take the blame like a man and learn from your mistakes. I on the other hand do not claim to be an expert, only to be relaying expert information. My stance is simple. FWD and AWD cars are perfectly safe for their engineered, designed, manufactured and intended purpose (e.g everyday driving). This is information that is widely accepted as fact by the automotive world, and is readily available to anyone who cares to briefly research it (or has a shred of common sense). In addition, I clearly state to everyone that they should do the research and not to take my (or your) word for it. On the other hand, you clearly state that everyone should take your word for it with no proof, because if they don't they do not have "...minds open enough to listen" (your words). In reality, it looks as though you are the politician. Quite ironic. And what makes it even more ironic is the fact that your own personal vehicles are FWD and AWD. The very vehicles that are too dangerous for the rest of us mere mortals to drive on the road. In other words, you attempt to employ the classic politicians ploy: "Do as I say, not as I do." Again, the facts show that you are the political here. And be careful, your "Government Conspiracy" colors are beginning to shine through even more now. All you need to do is provide links to any professional automotive experts who back your automotive "theories". Something other than writers from the "Prohibition Times" and other types of Conspiracy/Religious fanatics. But you can't, because your "facts" are "refuted" by any respected automotive expert. You now have incorrect information being refuted in several threads in the Edge Forums (and the Blue Oval Forums), by several respected forum members (with just 20 posts to your credit, quite an accomplishment). You have advised people to rewire their powertrains, rewire their A/C systems etc etc, ad nauseum. Your advice is junk, will cost people unnecessary damage and repair costs if they should follow it, and in some cases is even dangerous. Provide corroborating evidence, or let others do the research for themselves and decide what is correct. The truth concerning the safety of FWD, AWD, RWD and 4WD is easy to find for anyone who wishes to. There is no "Government Conspiracy" to hide the truth. In closing I would simply add: Willard, you may be a great guy in person and in everyday life. And I am not stating that you are a bad person. That I can not judge over the Internet. I am saying that you give incorrect information, with no corroboration, which flies against all accepted expert automotive knowledge. And people need to know that following some of your advice could be costly, or even dangerous for some people. Instead of "Show me the money" we ask you to "Show us the corroboration". Recognized automotive experts of course, not "Prohibition Times" type of "conspiracy theory" drivel. And the question is asked in a rhetorical manner of course, since there are no recognized automotive experts who agree with you that FWD/AWD vehicles are unsafe for their intended use of everyday driving. Unfortunately, I feel that you will not end this yet, so be aware that my future replies will be similar to this one. And highly likely simply copied and pasted from this reply, so as not to waste any more time than minimally necessary on this dead end. PS - If any fellow Edge Forum member has any questions concerning the "ABS conspiracy" or anything else, I would be happy to answer you personally. Simply send me a PM and I will respond back. No sense in keeping this thread going any longer than necessary. Time for the curtain to drop and the little spotlight to be extinguished. Also, while I do not want to volunteer anyone else, there are other very knowledgeable forum members who I am sure would be willing to help. Just not in this thread. PPS - And thank you akirby. You are 100% correct. But actually his inane replies are now helping to expose him completely. Now even the most trusting and non-car savvy forum member will be able to see through his foolishness. At least they will now know enough to ignore him. But thanks for the heads up. I appreciate it.

Hi Brutis. :D Acquiring the part number for any Ford part is as simple as calling or visiting your nearest Ford Dealer, and asking the Parts Department Staff for the Part #. Concerning purchasing: You can purchase from the Ford Dealer. Simply order through the Parts Department. Or if you want to save money, you can order though any of the online Ford Parts Retailers such as Team Ford Parts Online (already mentioned above) LINK: Teams Ford Parts Online or Direct Ford Parts LINK: Direct Ford Parts And just as an FYI: A person does not need the part # to order a part. That is the job of the Parts Department to get the correct Part #. You simply tell them what type of car you have and the part you are looking for and they look up the part #. They will look it up anyway even if you give them a part #, to be sure you are ordering the correct part. Good luck. :beerchug: