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Hi blockisle. Short answer: No. Longer answer: When set to AUTO and a low or high temperature is chosen, the system assumes you would like it to get to your desired temperature as soon as possible, so it will set the fan to blow at full speed until it reaches the set/desired temperature. Once the interior temperature reaches the desired temperature, the system will slow the fan and regulate the temperature with lower fan speeds and warmed or cooled air, if possible. Try it sometime. Just set it to 60 on AUTO and let it run. Once the interior temp reaches 60, the fan speed will slow down, just as if it was set on AUTO at a higher temperature. Of course, that assumes your drive is long enough to allow it to reach 60. But unfortunately the low temp limit skips from 60 degrees to 65, with no middle adjustment (61-64). Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Barry. :D Have you tried lubricating the window seals well with a good high quality Silicone Lubricant? Either spray on type, or gel. Spray on may be easier for you to get into the window frame. At this point, it would certainly be worth a try. A few important points. First, if purchasing the gel type, be sure you purchase a Silicone Lubricant, not a silicone adhesive. Next, be sure you purchase a high quality Silicon Lubricant that is specifically made to lubricate and protect rubber seals. There are cheap silicone lubricants that are not good for this type of application. Next, if you get the spray type, use the little straw extension to get up into the frames well. For open areas, spray on a cloth and wipe on, to minimize overspray onto other components. Keep a cloth handy either way to quickly wipe up drips and overspray. If using the gel type, simply apply it with your finger of choice :shades: and spread it over all rubber seals. Then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. While you are at it, also lubricate the door and trunk seals. It will help protect them, and stop any noises that may also be emanating from them. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi igcitng. :D Best advice would be to simply make a Service appointment and take it in to be repaired/replaced. As you can see, since this is a relatively dead thread it is not a common problem. No matter what any of us may tell you otherwise, eventually that is what you will need to do anyway. So have it done next time you have the car in for service (oil change etc). Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Just to avoid confusion in the future, the "tail light" in the rear spoiler is actually called the CHMSL (Center High Mount Stop Light). I was momentarily thinking you were talking about a gasket around the left or right tail lights. I do confuse easily sometimes!

Hi dadrett. :D I think the difficulty here is that we/you are expecting the Owners Manual to describe all features and functions in much more precise detail than can be done in a layman's readable handbook (or as you stated, maybe you are being a bit nitpicky :rolleyes: ). Essentially, an Automaker can't cram everything into an Owners Manual that will still fit into the glove compartment. If they did, it would then be a Shop Manual, and you would need to carry it in the trunk. :shades: Yes, the Owners Manual may not specifically state in black and white that the transmission will upshift and downshift to maintain speed (again, within certain limitations). However, this is a regular/common function of modern computerized Speed Control systems, and it is a function that has been around for some time now. Especially since the advent of computer controlled engines, transmissions, engine controls, Speed Control Systems, etc etc. Your Speed Control system will use the throttle and transmission shifting (within certain limitations) to keep the set speed What it comes down to is this, you have to take it on faith (and our word :stats: ) that since your transmission is downshifting to exactly maintain the set Speed Control speed, it must be a normal function. In most instances in life, the obvious explanation is the correct one. Wisdom of the ages! Of course, the other "Conspiracy/Alien UFO Abduction Theory" would be that you have some weird malfunction that happens to magically keep your set Speed Control speed, while it is simultaneously malfunctioning. Now of course, that would not be possible, as a malfunctioning Speed Control, or Transmission would obviously do the complete opposite and not keep the set Speed Control speed. So bottom line, if you are looking for something in the Owners Manual that will answer this question, you may/will not find it. But you can believe us that your Edge is working properly, at least concerning your transmission and Speed Control Systems. Modern Speed Control Systems will utilize the transmission to upshift and downshift to help maintain the set speed (again, within certain limitations). Good luck. :beerchug: PS - And we are now beginning to approach the "We have too much time on our hands" International Date Line! So please bring your seat backs and tray tables into their upright and locked positions!

Hi dadrett. :D Yes, we did resolve/answer it earlier. The transmission will upshift and downshift to maintain the set cruise control speed (within certain limitations). And actually, as an FYI: Ford now refers to it as "Speed Control", and it is listed as such in the Owners Manual Index. If you have noticed, if you are driving up a steep hill with cruise control on, the transmission will sometimes downshift to maintain speed (again, within certain limitations). This is due to 6th gear being too tall of a gear for the hill climb. Same design function for the opposite result. Another example: If you hit the "Resume" button after having to hit the brakes for some reason (like stopping at a traffic light), the transmission will upshift all the way up through the gears, until you reach the previously set cruise control speed (assuming you had cruise control on when you hit the brakes). Your Edge is working just perfectly. And exactly as designed. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dadrett. :D Glad my reply was somewhat understandable. And now it seems between you, Waldo and I we have solved this triple mystery. Waldo has supplied the missing answer to the "tap the brake/downshift" question. "Hill Descent Mode". Forgot about that term. Thanks for the heads up, Waldo. Actually, in the 2009 Edge Owners Manual they call it "Overdrive Cancel with Grade Assist", but the theory is the same. In fact, here is a copy and paste from a section of the 2009 Edge Owners Manual (2nd printing) describing the "Overdrive Cancel with Grade Assist" mode: Grade Assist • Improves driving experience in hilly terrain or mountainous areas by providing additional grade (engine) braking and extends lower gear operation on uphill climbs. • Provides additional engine braking through the automatic transmission shift strategy which reacts to vehicle inputs (vehicle acceleration, accelerator pedal, brake pedal and vehicle speed). • Allows the transmission to select gears that will provide the desired engine braking based on the vehicle inputs mentioned above. This will increase engine RPM during engine braking. Overdrive Cancel with Grade Assist is designed to provide optimal gear selection in hilly terrain or mountainous areas. It is recommended that you return to O/D (overdrive mode) on flat terrain to provide the best fuel economy and transmission function. So as you can see, it does specifically mention using the "vehicle acceleration, accelerator pedal, brake pedal and vehicle speed" and allowing "...the transmission to select gears that will provide the desired engine braking based on the vehicle inputs mentioned above." So there is the smoking gun that explains how it will allow the transmission to downshift for added engine braking if you should use the brakes while in "Grade Assist Mode". I was working from the 2008 Edge Manual in my earlier replies, which had a less descriptive definition of the feature. And unfortunately, we won't be able to retire on the "Adaptive Cruise Control" copyright residuals, but it was one hell of an idea! :happy feet: Good luck dadrett! :beerchug: PS - I agree that some may think we have too much time on your hands. However, I prefer to think of my spare time as one of the perks of getting older! And that gives me the added perk of being able to assist others, which I also enjoy! :grouphug:

Hi dadrett. :D You are welcome. Just a few added points: By definition, the O/D lockout button automatically takes the transmission out of 6th gear and into a lower gear, usually fifth if you are going fast enough. 6th gear is the "Overdrive" gear, so it is locking out 6th gear. In other words, if it did not drop from 6th to 5th, what good would it be? If it doesn't lock out 6th gear (Overdrive), it's not an "Overdrive Lockout Button" Correct? Concerning the "tap the brakes and drop to fourth..." statement: When I have the opportunity, I will check on my car to see if it does the same. An educated guess would lead me to believe that your transmission is working exactly as designed. Regarding the cruise control: What you are reading in the Owners Manual concerning possibly needing to apply the brakes is essentially a Lawyers release. To protect themselves, Ford is telling people too dumb to figure it out for themselves, that the occasion may arise when a hill may be so steep that the brakes may need to be used. If they do not add that legalese, you just know that some nitwit will have an accident and claim that their car did not slow down enough while on cruise control, and they never hit the brakes because the Owners Manual did not tell them that they may need to, even though they were using cruise control on a steep hill (not a bright idea). In other words, for the benefit of the driving skill and common sense challenged among us, Ford is simply saying that the need may sometimes arise when we may need to use the brakes, even with speed control on. Just a legal disclaimer. You, I and most drivers with a modicum of common sense already know this, a few out on the roads don't. Also, it is not an "Adaptive cruise control" system. Adaptive Cruise Control" does exist on some more expensive cars now, and will eventually filter down. It usually uses radar to judge the distance between your car and other vehicles, fixed objects, etc. It will actually slow your car by applying the brakes if necessary to keep a safe distance between you and the vehicle in front of you, then speed back up to your preset speed when it is safe to do so. Our cruise control will simply keep the same constant speed by throttle control and gear changes. If this information is confusing, let me know and I will try to explain it in a clearer manner. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi daltore. :D Unfortunately no, assuming that your instrument cluster lighting is working properly. You can take your car in for service to be sure that the intensity range is working correctly, in case there is a problem. Twilight/dusk is always a problematic time for lighting. Even in outdoor sports stadiums, it is a problem to get sufficient lighting in that in-between time, when there is too little natural light, but the artificial light is not powerful enough to make up for the deficit. Short of tearing apart the dash and replacing bulbs/LED's with higher intensity versions (and possibly needing to run new wiring/sockets). Most Dealers will not take on such a modification due to cost and resulting Warranty problems. Sorry I could not give you a more optimistic answer. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dadrett. :D Your transmission is fine and working as designed. If you check your Owners Manual, these functions are described in detail pretty much exactly as you mention. It is not the first Ford Transmission to have an "Overdrive Lockout Button". Same thing with the cruise control. This is how most modern cruise controls have worked for some time now. The reason Ford does not tout these two things as safety/convenience features is that just about every modern vehicle transmission does the same things, or something very similar. So no sense wasting advertising dollars telling people "Buy a Ford! Our transmission works just like every other automakers transmission!", or "Buy a Ford, our cruise control will actually work when you are not driving on absolutely flat terrain!" It would be almost the equivalent (slightly exaggerated ) of Ford advertising that they have this great feature, "power windows that go up and down at the press of a button". Everyone has that. No sense in advertising features that everyone else also has on their cars. And just so there is no misunderstanding, I am not trying to be a wise guy, this is what Ford would be saying since by definition this is is how cruise control systems and transmissions with overdrive lockouts work, from virtually every automaker, for quite some time now. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi kanatronic. :D If they cut the rotors and cleaned the pads, then yes, the bill is not outrageous. However, I was not taking guesses at what may have been done, or whether Edgedout provided incorrect or partial information. I was taking him at his word and trying not to play "yeah but...". Edged out clearly stated that his stepdaughter was charged $115 for a brake fluid change. Not a rotor cut or anything else. So I am going with the information that was provided. If he provides other information that states the Dealer did additional work, then I can adjust my advice. As far as the cap being loose: It would be a relatively safe assumption that his step-daugher did not loosen it. And since it seems she takes the car back to the Dealership for service, there is a good chance that the Dealership was the last to check the brake fluid (which due to transparent reservoirs, does not even require a cap removal). That only reinforces my belief that the fluid change on a car that is still under Warranty (2 years old with 25,000 miles) should have been covered under Warranty. Did his step-daughter misunderstand? Or did she give Edgedout the wrong information? Possibly. But you< I and ablb all agree, "dirty brake fluid" does not cause squeaky brakes. Therefore, until additional information is provided to show that additional work was performed, I tend to believe that the Dealership took advantage of his step-daughters lack of automotive knowledge and performed/charged for unnecessary work. Hope this makes my reply more understandable. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi KMAN. :D Several points: First, as ablb stated, the lenses and reflectors for non-HID cars are not designed for HID bulbs. Therefore they do not aim the light correctly when aftermarket HID kits are added. There is nothing that can reasonably be done to correct this problem. Factory HID Headlight lenses and reflectors are designed specifically for HID bulbs light patterns. Aftermarket HID kits are not. Second, if you choose to ignore the legalities and design problems and install an aftermarket HID kit anyway, do not put them in the high beam position. HID's take time to properly warm up. So if you place them in the high beam position, you will effectively lose the "flash to pass" function. When you flash the high beams, they will have no time to warm up and will not work properly. As far as the fog lights (they are fog lights on our cars, not "driving lights) you can install the regular low beam units in the fog light position. In reality, it is the only legal and practical place to install them, since the low beam position is illegal and the high beam position is not practical. And as an FYI: Aftermarket HID kits are not illegal due to some great government conspiracy to keep us in the dark, or any of the other various reasons some people seem to believe. They are illegal for on road use due to the fact that they have not been properly designed, tested or DOT certified for all of the different vehicles that they are installed in, for aftermarket use. A proper HID headlight unit must be designed from the beginning to use HID bulbs. No way around it. And as an answer to those who would use the fact that they and/or others have installed aftermarket HID kits so you should too, the reply is a simple one: Other people steal, other people rob, other people buy scam products every day. Blending in with the anonymity of others who do illegal or foolish things is a ridiculous excuse/defense for doing something that is illegal and/or foolish. "Hey, lot's of people are investing with this guy Bernie Madoff. Must be a great deal, so write him a check!" Yes, the fact that others do it too is a great idea! Not trying to talk you out of it, just providing the facts. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

HI edgedout. :D Glad we solved the "Random CD Player mystery". Concerning the squeaky brakes: Like ablb stated, flushing the brake fluid certainly could not hurt. However, there are several additional points to make concerning the Dealership she took her car to: First, "dirty brake fluid" would not have caused the squeaky brake problem. Contamination/dirt on the brake pads or rotors is what will commonly cause most squeaky brake problems. And as ablb stated, a quick pad cleaning/deglazing, or a few hard stops will normally take care of that. Next, it would be unlikely that the brake fluid was "dirty". Two years/25,000 miles is certainly a bit soon to need a brake fluid flush. Therefore if thre was a problem with the brake fluid, a service like this should have been covered under Warranty. Changing it would not hurt anything, but it should have been performed under Warranty. And if not under Warranty, it certainly should have been done for less than $115. Essentially, it was likely an unnecessary service at a slightly inflated price. Your stepdaughter should probably have someone go with her when she has service done to her car. Or at least call and check with someone first when work is recommended by this or any other Dealership/Service Shop. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi edgedout. :D You can likely save yourself a trip to the Dealer for service (on the CD player anyway). It sounds as though you have the CD player set for "Shuffle" mode. There is usually a button labeled "Shuffle". You or someone else probably accidentally turned it on. Simply turn off the Shuffle mode and it should work in normal linear mode. Turn off Shuffle mode and let us know if this cures your "problem". And one recommendation: A quick read over of your Owners Manual may be very helpful to you. There are probably quite a few things in there that would interest and help you in understanding your Edge. Good luck. :beerchug:

Oooops. Double post. Sorry.

Hi ILVMYGT. Sorry for the initial :D copy and paste here, but the advice remains the same: Whether the light came on yet or not, the safe and foolproof way to do things is simply to reset/recalibrate the sensors each time you change the tires. That is a short and quick answer, and it is a little more complicated than that, but it covers the basics. You can't go wrong if you reset with each change. If you do a search for this subject, you will find that the TPMS warning lights seem to illuminate at varying driving distances, but they also do eventually illuminate. From the gathered experience of forum members, ten miles is not enough driving to activate the system. since the TPMS systems are not precision devices. They are considered to be "Idiot Lights". To me, it simply seems easier to do things the right way and reset/recalibrate the system at tire changes. Or you can wait until it comes on then reset. Hey, it is your vehicle so you can do as you please. Just trying to help. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi trr. :D Unfortunately, it can not realistically be done at this time. While Ford Genuine Accessories has an aftermarket retrofit kit out now, it is only for the 2008-2009 models. SYNC was not available on the Edge at all in the 2007 model year, with 2008 being the first year of SYNC availability. The 2007 is simply missing far too many computer components, electronic components, wiring harnesses, electrical components etc etc. Even if there was a way to figure out how to do it, the amount of time and money that would need to be thrown at the job would be prohibitive. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ILVMYGT. :D You don't give much information. Did you remove the winter tires from the wheels and then mount the summer tires on the same wheels or do you have separate wheel/tire combo for each season? Whether the light came on yet or not, the safe and foolproof way to do things is simply to reset/recalibrate the sensors each time you change the tires. In this way, you also take into account any psi difference between the two sets of tires. That is a short and quick answer, and it is a little more complicated than that, but it covers the basics. You can't go wrong if you reset with each change. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dereck. No, the SJB in the Edge/MKX can not be reprogrammed by the Dealer to accomplish what you are asking. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Blazedup. :D I know you did not mean for it to come out in this way, but it is still funny. So you might want to reword your previous post. Do you realize that you just posted a reply that insists we believe that you attended classes that taught you to be vague, rude and just a plain asshole? Should we agree with you or argue with you? You seemed so intent on convincing us, that I hate to argue with you about it! Anyway, as previously stated I know you did not mean it in that manner, but thanks for the unintentional laugh! :shades: Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi bluetexan. :D My advice? Always be careful what Salespeople tell you is true or not true. They have a way of consistently spinning stories to put themselves in a better light, therefore getting your return business on your next car. For example a slick Salesperson will try to take credit for getting your car fixed by stating something to the effect of, "You know what Mr. Blue Texan, if I had not intervened the Service Manager would have turned down your Warranty repair." Two other things: First, there is no reason that a Service Manager would have for making a statement like that. That would be an automatic Warranty fix, since as you said, mildew would not have formed that quickly in four days, even if you had left the roof open. Second, a good Service Manager would never tell a Salesperson something like that. And a bastard Service Manager would have just denied the Warranty repair, not performed the repair under Warranty and then bitched to a Salesperson. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Earl. :D Just as an FYI: The Dealer actually needs to reprogram the SJB (Smart Junction Box), not the PCM. Perhaps the Dealer told you "PCM" so that they would not have to explain what an SJB is? Who knows. Anyway, glad you got your DRL's. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jennifer. :D Check your Maintenance Schedule. The "Normal Service Oil Change Interval" for the Edge is 7,500 miles/6 months (whichever comes first). For those Edge's used for towing or severe driving conditions, the "Recommended Oil Change Interval" is 5,000 miles/6 months (whichever comes first). Of course, you are free to change the oil as often as you want. It certainly won't hurt anything to change sooner, but to do it sooner than the recommended 7,500 miles/6 months or 5,000 miles/6 months would be a waste of time and money. Of course that is just my opinion (and the opinion of Ford's Engineers :yup: ). Some Dealers and Oil Change shops will tell you 3,000 miles/3 months. However, advancement in engine technology and oil science have made that advice long outdated. They are simply trying to make more money by convincing you to use a shorter change interval. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Earl. :D Again, this question has been asked and answered here many times. You must take your Edge to the Dealership Service Department for them to reprogram the SJB (Smart Junction Box) to enable the DRL's. They can only be enabled and disabled through the Dealership system. There is no shortcut to allow you to do-it-yourself. Call another Dealership and ask to speak to the Service Manager, until you find one that knows the proper procedure. If you doubt the above information, you can do a site search for "DRL's", "Daytime Running Lights", "Enabling DRLs'" etc etc. to double check. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Earl. :D I answered this question in your other post. There is no aftermarket kit. You need to find a Dealer with a more competent Service Department. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Earl. :D This is an oft asked and answered question (either to be turned on or off). The DRL's are enabled/disabled by reprogramming the "SJB" (Smart Junction Box). This is done by the Dealerships Service Department. It is not a do-it-yourself project. Good luck. :beerchug: