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Well, I was trying to give you some guidance to help solve your problems. Remember, the ones you posted about all over the place? You complained here LINK: Report Your Complaints! and in multiple other posts about not being able to get any resolution to your concerns from the Dealership Service Department? Recall that? Well, in your Warranty Booklet is a detailed description of the remediation process to follow if you have the specific type of problem you are complaining about. Phone numbers, addresses, organizations, etc etc. It is called a "Conflict Resolution Process". To assist you, I even included a link to the Ford website in my post, so you could download a copy of the Warranty Booklet in case you could not find yours. There was no joke involved. I was just an individual making an honest attempt to help someone who "seemed" to be asking for help. Unfortunately, I can now see that I was mistaken. You were not really asking for help. The above reply of yours makes it clear that you are the type that would rather complain (and make sarcastic remarks) than actually follow good advice and do something. If you wanted to do something other than endlessly bitch and moan, you would have read your Warranty Booklet as I suggested in your post here LINK:Report Your Complaints! over a week and a half ago. Then, you would know what procedures and conflict resolution processes I was referencing. I should not need to type them out for you. Since you would rather attack those who might be willing to help guide you, I will now let you continue with your Internet letter writing campaign. I will not make the mistake of trying to help you again. You have all the answers, so good luck.

Deleted. :beerchug:

Deleted. :beerchug:

Hi bcfrbc. :D Concerning your Warranty question: Of course, your Ford Warranty will be void on the exhaust parts that have been replaced. But only those parts. The Warranty on the rest of the vehicle should remain perfectly intact. The chances of an aftermarket exhaust causing some sort of secondary damage to a vehicle is highly unlikely, so Warranty concerns should be minimal. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi killermaze. :D Unfortunately, you do not mention what Maintenance Schedule you have followed up until now. Are you following the "Normal Maintenance" (7,500 miles) or the "Severe/Heavy Duty" schedule (5,000 miles). How many oil changes and tire rotations have you performed before now, and at how many miles? Most people can just use the "Normal Schedule". At those intervals (7,500, 15,000, 22,500) the only real maintenance is an oil change (maybe $25 or so) and tire rotation ($10-$20). The Dealer will try to sell you much more, but it is not required, and in most cases not needed. It will not be until further into your ownership, when you need to begin replacing other filters (air, etc.) and fluids (transmission, coolant, etc.), that the scheduled maintenance will become more expensive. Again, just follow the Maintenance Schedule Booklet from Ford, not what the Dealer recommends. The Dealer will sell you everything including the kitchen sink, if you will fall for it. Do you have your Maintenance Schedule Booklet which was given to you when you purchased the Edge (if you purchased new)? That booklet explains in detail the schedule and necessary maintenance for each interval. If you do not have the booklet, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Maintenance Schedules Just fill in your vehicle information in the drop down boxes and presto! You have a Maintenance Schedule. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi angiedawn. :D You can try Salvage Yards in your area for wheels from a wrecked Edge. You can also try Ebay. Additionally, have you tried Team Ford Parts Online (LINK: Team Ford Parts)? If you can not find another forum member who has a wheel available at a reasonable price, your best bet (price wise) would probably be the Salvage Yards or EBay. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Big Braap. :D I checked all 5 Dealerships in the vicinity of the 03079 ZIP Code, and there is no Black AWD Edge Limited with that VIN in-stock. We have several obstacles here: First, as I wrote in my other post, I need the name of the Dealership, not the Dealership code. Unfortunately, the code for the Dealership does not help me find the Dealer. Without the name of the Dealership, I need to search through the inventory of every Dealer listed in the vicinity of a particular ZIP Code, hoping to come across the right vehicle. In most cases (like this one), that is 5 or more Dealerships. Next, as I also stated earlier, we can only access the Invoice and Plan pricing of vehicles which are currently listed in-stock. Is this vehicle in stock now at the Dealership, or is it a vehicle you ordered? If it is an in-stock vehicle, is it listed on the Forddirect.com website in the "Search Dealer Inventory" section? If it is not listed on the FordDirect website, I can not get the most accurate pricing information. Please post back with the above information. If it is a Factory Order, your other option is to go to Edmunds.com and work up the Factory Invoice pricing estimate (Edmunds, KBB.com, etc. are all estimates, not exact Factory Invoice prices) and try to work from there. The problem with that (and why I do not use it) is it is not an exact price to the dollar, being only an estimate. Good luck.

Hi ablb. :D If the Dealership is repairing the MKX by using a paintless dent removal contractor, such as "Dent Wizard", and you can get a better price than an MKX that has not been damaged, it would be a good deal. If you are not familiar with it, see this link for an explanation of what "Paintless Dent Removal" is: LINK: Dent Wizard I had two cars repaired by "Dent Wizard" contractors over the years. One that was hail damaged 1 month after I purchased it in 1998 (over 25 hail dents) the other which was hit by a softball right in the middle of the hood in 2003. When they were done, both cars looked like new. All dents completely gone. You could not find the dents even if you knew where they were before If they are planning on traditional bodywork and repainting, personally I would not want the vehicle. A repainted vehicle can never be the same as a new vehicle, unless of course it is a high quality custom paint job (which is not what you would get on that MKX). Just my personal opinion. Whatever you decide to do, good luck! :beerchug:

Hi Big Braap. :D If you really want an accurate answer, please provide the following information (assuming this vehicle is currently in-stock at a Dealership): The VIN. The name and ZIP Code of the Dealership. The color (just makes it easier to search for). You can go here: LINK: Inventory Search and use the "Search Inventory" function if you need to. Once we have that information, we can find the exact Factory Invoice price (not Edmunds or KBB estimates). Generally speaking, if you get your price to within approximately $200 of Actual Factory Invoice (including all added Dealer fees, and before all Incentives are deducted), you have a pretty good price. Also, if you are taking all of the Incentive Cash, how are you financing? If you are financing through the Dealership, what is your APR Rate? No price is a good price if they are screwing you on the APR Rate Financing. Post back with that information, and I would be happy to look it up for you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi vinnieg. :D If you are looking for an antenna that gives stronger reception, a "stubby" antenna is not the answer. In general, assuming all other variables equal (antenna quality, reception area, etc.) a stubby antenna will usually give poorer reception due to the shorter height. At best, you should only assume you will see no difference at all with a shorter antenna. If you want better reception, you would need to either: 1 - Install a high quality longer antenna mast. 2 - Add an antenna power booster to your system. 3 - Replace your entire antenna from the head unit to the antenna base/mast with a higher quality antenna system (this last option is the hardest to do but potentially the most effective). But it all really depends on what type of reception you are already getting, the type of terrain where you live (urban, suburban, flat, mountainous), etc etc. For some good information on antennas, power boosters and improving FM reception, read the information provided here: LINK: Crutchfield Antenna FAQ's. You can also Google "automotive antenna booster" for more information. Just be careful to separate the commercial advertisements from the informational links. Concerning a longer antenna, there is someone on another forum where I am a member who ordered a 16" antenna from the Mazda 6. Not sure how long the MKX antenna is (I think the stock antenna is 10"?), but if it is shorter than 16", this may help give you better reception. Additionally, you might want to have your Dealerships Service Department check to be sure there is not some sort of defect or poor connection causing your reception troubles (always a possibility). If you do not want a longer antenna, then you are looking at the other two options. Just keep in mind that according to the quality of reception you are already receiving and the terrain in your area, your choices may be limited. Just don't want you wasting your money on things that may not help. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D Have you already negotiated the wheel swap with the Dealer? If you have not, you should do this before you order, as you should have the swap written in stone in the Purchase Contract. As the old saying goes, "Always get it in writing". In addition, even if the Dealer does not have an SEL in stock when yours arrives (unless it is a very small Dealership, they will likely have one), all they need do is order a set of SEL wheels. If you have the swap in the contract as a condition of purchase, that is what they will need to do. But again, get the "wheel swap" in writing when you sign the Purchase Order. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D Okay, since it seems to be a little confusing, let's try it this way. The following are standard features on the Edge Limited which are optional on the Edge SEL (as copied and pasted directly from the Ford website). Of course, there may have been subsequent changes which the website does not reflect, but this information is mostly accurate: 1 - Front seating: Leather-trimmed seating surfaces with contrast stitching (available on SEL as part of optional Premium Package or part of Seating Flexibility Package). 2 - Front seating: Six-way power passenger seat with fold-flat front-passenger seat back (available on SEL as part of optional Seating Flexibility Package). 3 - Front seating: Heated (available on SEL as part of optional Premium Package). 4 - Front seating: Driver seat memory (available on SEL as part of optional Premium Package). 5 - Rear seating: Leather-trimmed seating surfaces with contrast stitching (available on SEL as part of optional Premium Package or part of Seating Flexibility Package). 6 - Premium Package: Dual-Zone Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls, leather-trimmed seating surfaces, heated front seats with driver-side memory feature, power heated exterior mirrors with memory features, particulate air filter, and security approach lamps. 7 - Seating Flexibility Package: Leather-trimmed front and rear seating surfaces, 6-way power passenger seat, front row passenger fold-flat seat-back, EasyFold™ remote second row seat back release. 8 - Air conditioning: Dual-Zone Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls (available in SEL as part of optional Premium Package). 9 - Particulate air filter (available in SEL as part of optional Premium Package). 10 - SYNC voice-activated, hands-free in-car communications and entertainment system. 11 - Audiophile® Sound System with nine speakers. 12 - Auxiliary climate controls on steering wheel (available on SEL as part of optional Premium Package). I actually think these were eliminated with the introduction of SYNC. 13 - Heat and memory features on power exterior mirrors (available on SEL with optional Premium Package). 14 - Universal garage door opener (optional on SEL as part of the Premium Package). 15 - Premium Package: Dual-Zone Electronic Automatic Temperature Controls, leather-trimmed seating surfaces, heated front seats with driver-side memory features, power heated exterior mirrors with memory features, particulate air filter, security approach lamps, universal garage door opener. 16 - 18-inch premium chrome-clad aluminum wheels with P245/60R18 black sidewall all-season tires 17 - 20-inch premium chrome-clad aluminum wheels with sport-tuned suspension and P245/50R20 BSW all-season tires. These wheels are an option on the Limited, but not available from the factory on the SEL at all. 18 - Reverse Sensing System As you can see by numbers 7 (Seating Flexibility Package) & 15 (Premium Package), these two packages add most of the missing options to the SEL. The problem is, it seems you can not get both option packages on the SEL. So you need to choose one or the other. Otherwise, you can option out an SEL close to a Limited. Add in the interior/exterior badging changes (Limited vs. SEL), and some minor interior/exterior trim changes (i.e. chrome beltline trim on the Limited), and that pretty much covers the major and minor differences. Hope this is helpful. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D Have you thought about Factory Ordering exactly what you would like, instead of purchasing from Inventory? In addition, you may/should be able to negotiate with the Dealer to swap the wheels for the SEL wheels, if you do not care for the 20" wheels (as "lex talionis" did). If you have the time to wait for an order (figure 6-8 weeks), it is an option. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. Comparing a base Limited to a base SEL, there are many more differences than just the wheels. In fact, too many to try and type in here. You salesman is just trying to get you to take what they have so you don't go elsewhere. That is what salesmen do. Try this link: LINK: Ford Edge. Click on the "View All" tab near the top, then you can simply scroll down the list to compare the differences in equipment between the Limited and SEL. Of course, if you Factory Order (or get lucky and your Dealer can find exactly what you want at another Dealership) you can build up an SEL with optional equipment to come close to a Limited (some equipment not available on the SEL)), but it seems you prefer to find one in stock. Hope this helps. Good luck.

Hi Always_smile1st. :D Have you even bothered to look at the Warranty Booklet, as you were advised to do? The correct process to begin remediation for your problems are in there. Do you realize that this Forum is not run by Ford? Do you understand that a letter writing campaign to the websites you have linked to will not solve your problem? What you need to do has been explained to you, but it certainly seems you have ignored that advice. You need to begin the process using the resources outlined in your Warranty Booklet. What you are doing here is only beginning to make you look silly. We cannot help you, and while people will start off as sympathetic, what you continue to do will soon turn people against you. Follow the procedures outlined in your Warranty Booklet. The rest of this is futile Internet nonsense. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Always_smile1st. :D Have you even bothered to look at the Warranty Booklet, as you were advised to do? The correct process to begin remediation for your problems are in there. Do you realize that this Forum is not run by Ford? Do you understand that a letter writing campaign to the websites you have linked to will not solve your problem? What you need to do has been explained to you, but it certainly seems you have ignored that advice. You need to begin the process using the resources outlined in your Warranty Booklet. What you are doing here is only beginning to make you look silly. We cannot help you, and while people will start off as sympathetic, what you continue to do will soon turn people against you. Follow the procedures outlined in your Warranty Booklet. The rest of this is futile Internet nonsense. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Always_smile1st. :D Have you even bothered to look at the Warranty Booklet, as you were advised to do? The correct process to begin remediation for your problems are in there. Do you realize that this Forum is not run by Ford? Do you understand that a letter writing campaign to the websites you have linked to will not solve your problem? What you need to do has been explained to you, but it certainly seems you have ignored that advice. You need to begin the process using the resources outlined in your Warranty Booklet. What you are doing here is only beginning to make you look silly. We cannot help you, and while people will start off as sympathetic, what you continue to do will soon turn people against you. Follow the procedures outlined in your Warranty Booklet. The rest of this is futile Internet nonsense. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi miran587. :D First: Of course you can not "reset" the "Miles to Empty" readout. That would be counter-productive and make no sense. That particular readout measures how much fuel you have in the tank and an average fuel economy reading using th Engine Control Systems, then calculates an approximate "Miles to Empty" distance. It is an ever changing calculation, and the trip computer will recalculate during your driving to compensate for higher or lower fuel consumption. Next: As akirby is trying to explain to you, the "Average MPG" readout is not an instant type readout. It is merely an average since the last time it was reset. When you hit "Reset", it essentially starts at zero, and works it's way higher. So each time you reset it, you are resetting to zero and giving ourself an artificially low MPG reading until you drive for some time. Then when you hit reset again, you begin the entire cycle from zero again. So as you can see, constantly hitting reset is not a good way to get an accurate short term MPG reading. You need to just leave it alone for several tankfuls and let it get an accurate long term reading. Fuel economy needs to be averaged over at least several tankfuls of driving, not one tankful or part of one tankful. If you want tank by tank MPG figures, it is a good idea to figure your MPG's the old fashioned way, as a backup to the computer. Divide your miles driven by gallons of gas needed to fill up, and do this over several tankfuls at least. Then you will know if your trip computer is working correctly (which it most likely is). When your "Miles to Empty" reading went from 300 to 261 the last time you filled up, it is entirely possible that the pump shut off early and you did not actually have a full tank. Therefore the lower "Miles to E" reading. How long have you had your Edge? How many miles are on it? Once you have taken a long term MPG reading, if you still think you have a problem, take it to the Dealer to have it checked. That is your best course of action. Good luck. :beerchug:

Whew!!! Glad we finally figured that one out. I really like that Dark Ink Blue color! Best of luck with your new Edge, redsvt! :beerchug:

EDITED to be clearer and more understandable (I hope). Hi redsvt2001. :D Sounds nice! So your wifes' Edge has 20 inch wheels, and you measured 12-12.5 inch rotors, correct? If you are in Canada, that would corroborate the earlier information that the 20 inch wheels come with approximately 12.6 inch brake rotors, not 17 inch rotors, correct? Or am I still missing something? It would seem that perhaps "anomatrix" is correct in what he states above. It may be a Canadian measurement dealing with the overall size of the brake package (calipers and all), or the wheel size it will clear? However, it would not seem to be the actual brake rotor size. Best of luck with your Edge! :beerchug:

Hi redsvt2001. :D So, are you saying above that your wife has the 20 inch wheels? If that is correct, then we have answered our own question. If your wifes' Edge has the factory 20 inch wheels and your quick measurement of the rotors shows 12-12.5 inches, that pretty much verifies the information I had found that the front rotors are 12.6 inches, no matter what the wheel size. Rotor size is brake size. So if a vehicle has 12.6 inch front rotors, it has 12.6 inch front brakes. Simple logic, if you measured 12-12.5 inches, how can they be 17 inches? Or am I misunderstanding what you meant? I checked the Ford of Canada site and you are correct, it certainly does say "Includes 17" front brakes". However, as the brake specifications for the high performance (and heavier Expedition) vehicles in my previous post show, that really makes no sense. Additionally, to jump from a standard 12.6 inch rotor to an optional 17 inch rotor also defies logic. Hmmmm...a real stumper.

Hi redsvt2001. :D Yes, that is a stumper. I wonder if the 17 inch reference on the Canadian site is a typo. A 17 inch rotor is a massive brake rotor. The reason I say that is the following: Not even the Ferrari F430, Ford GT, Lamborghini Gallardo, Corvette Z06 or the Dodge Viper (all out performance vehicles, bordering on race cars), come with 17 inch brake rotors. Their front rotors are in the 14-15 inch range. Even the Ford Expedition, a much heavier vehicle, only has 13.5 inch front rotors. While I could be wrong, I would bet money it is some sort of typographical error, and the Edge in Canada does not actually come with 17 inch brake rotors, 20 inch wheels or not. Common sense and the size of the front brake rotors on the vehicles would seem to say no. Of course I also realize that rotor size is not the sole determining factor in brake efficiency. A neighbor of mine (U.S) has a 2008 Edge with the 20 inch factory wheel package, and the brake rotors are not 17 inch rotors. While I did not take the wheel off, a cursory measurement shows they are in the 12-13 inch range. Can you post the address to that Canadian Ford website? Hopefully we can find some definitive answer to the Canadian question. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D There are no major suspension differences between the two. The 20" wheel option comes with a "Sport Tuned" suspension, which essentially is just some re-tuned shocks and springs. Nothing that would keep you from switching wheels if you like (other than getting the Dealer to do it). And just as an FYI. The Edge comes with the same size rotors no matter the wheel options: 12.6" front rotors and 11.9" rear rotors. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi akirby. :D Hey what can we do? It happens sometimes (more often as I get older, it seems)! You are correct. A quick Google found Dodge does/did have a 7 year/70,000 mile Powertrain Warranty that could be transferred to a new owner. Seems they began that coverage in 2002. Not sure if they still do. For a short time before that, they offered a 7 year/100,000 that could not be transferred. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Always_smile1st. I copied and pasted this from my other reply to your other post (don't remember which one anymore, since there are so many) concerning this ongoing problem. Sorry to hear about your problems. To begin to address them in the proper manner, take a look at the Warranty booklet that should have been given to you when you purchased your Edge. If you can not find it, you can download it here: LINK: Warranty Information. Just click "Warranty" in the left menu, then fill in the drop down boxes to the left with your vehicle information. The Warranty Booklet lays out a precise process of the steps to take if your Dealership can not resolve your problems. If necessary, you will need to begin the Lemon Law process on your vehicle. The thing is, you need to initiate this process. Neither the Dealer nor Ford will "usually" volunteer the information after the fact (although they did hand all of us the information in a booklet when we purchased our new vehicles). Following the procedure outlined in the Warranty Booklet will get you further (and get you there quicker) than an Internet letter writing campaign. Good luck.