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Hi jlight. :D Yes, you are correct. 1 - All other variables being equal, ride quality will always deteriorate when we install a larger wheel with a tire that has a shorter sidewall. Of course, some people are more sensitive to it than others. In addition, acceleration and MPG's will also decrease somewhat, due to the larger diameter and most likely heavier wheel. Again, some people consider the trade-off worth it, some don't and some don't even understand that there is a trade-off. 2 - Some people (a relative minority in the grand scheme of things) have had finish problems on their "chrome clad" wheels. When it does occur, Ford/Lincoln replaces them. Hopefully they are working with the supplier to correct the production process so that it is not a long term problem. Washing does not seem to be the problem, at least not if done correctly. They should only be washed with the same car washing soap you use to wash your car, then protected with a light coat of wax (buffed off of course), just like your paint. Do not use spray on wheel cleaners, mag or aluminum wheel cleaners, etc etc. Most of these types of cleaners are harsh and acidic and harm the finish of the wheels. This advice goes for the regular non chrome wheels also, as they are clear coated. Essentially, do not use anything on your wheels unless it would also be safe to use on your cars paint finish. I have "chrome clad" wheels on my car (specifically ordered them) and they look as good as the day I purchased the car in November of 2006. But of course, which wheels a person likes (chrome, aluminum finish, painted aluminum etc.) is all a matter of personal preference. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tim. :D Well, I definitely agree that it does not sound like an actual physical transmission problem. Barring a major fluid leak, it sounds more like a computer or electronic problem. So, in my completely uninformed educated guess, I have a feeling that tearing down the trans will be a waste of time (and more importantly, your money). I am curious, what did the Dealer say concerning the codes when they read them? Or did they not even read the codes? Knowing what fault codes were being thrown is the first step towards fixing your Edge. Again, if it were me, I would try to get it back to the U.S., if at all possible. I have a feeling it will cost you less in the long run. Of course, this is just my opinion. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Tim. :D Sorry to hear about your problems. As you already know, the bold underlined quote below is contained in your Warranty Booklet: "DO WARRANTIES APPLY IN OTHER COUNTRIES? The New Vehicle Limited Warranty and the Emissions Warranties described in this booklet apply to your vehicle if: * it was originally purchased through the Ford Worldwide Direct Marketing Operations Military Sales Program; or * it was originally sold or leased by Ford Motor Company or one of its dealers in the United States or U.S Federalized Territories; and it was originally registered/licensed and operated in the United States, U.S. Federalized Territories, or Canada. If you meet either of these two requirements, you do have warranty coverage when you travel with this vehicle outside the United States, U.S. Federalized Territories, or Canada. In some cases, however, you may have to pay the servicing Ford dealer in a foreign country or U.S. Federalized Territory for a repair that is covered under the U.S. warranty. If this happens, be sure to save the paid repair order or invoice. You should present this document to a U.S. Ford Motor Company dealer for warranty refund consideration. Refer to www.Ford.com for additional global customer assistance reference information." As long as your vehicle fits one of the two very broad categories described in the Warranty Booklet, you do have Warranty coverage. However, you may have to pay out of pocket up front in Mexico, then be reimbursed by Ford. At this point, you need to ignore what the bozo from Corporate told you and decide on a course of action. While what he stated is incorrect, the fact is you still have no direct Warranty coverage (except through reimbursement) while in Mexico. What matters is what is in writing in the Warranty Booklet. So, you have several options: 1 - Have it fixed in Mexico, then apply for reimbursement when you get home with it. 2 - Drive it home (or to the nearest U.S. located Ford Dealer) in the condition it is currently in, then have it fixed at a U.S Dealer. 3 - Drive it to the nearest U.S. border crossing, then call for "Roadside Assistance" and have it towed to the nearest U.S located Ford Dealership. 4 - Pay to have it towed home (or at least towed to the nearest U.S border crossing, then use your "Roadside Assistance Coverage" to have it towed to the nearest U.S. Ford Dealer), then fixed in the U.S.. Your Edge was originally/is registered in the United States, correct? Is your Edge currently drivable? Can you drive it back to the U.S. in the shape it is in, then have it fixed at home? Again, your other option would be to have it towed to the U.S, if that is viable (I don't know exactly where the Mexican Dealer is). Unfortunately in all honesty, calling Corporate Relations will likely get you nowhere. You are in Mexico, so you either pay for it to be fixed there and get reimbursed, or get it to the U.S and have it covered under the normal Warranty. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - If it were my vehicle, I would do all that was possible to get it back to the U.S. and fixed by a Dealership here (and therefore covered under Warranty without worry of reimbursement).

Hi lwcoleman. :D Yes, you can listen to the audio through the speaker system. Also you can purchase a compatible set of wireless headphones to replace the missing ones (it comes with wireless headphones and a wireless remote control from the factory), or you can purchase a pair of wired headphones and plug them into the jacks. All of this is explained in the Owners Manual. It would be best to take a look at the manual for the detailed instructions on how to operate the DVD system. If you did not get a copy of the Owners manual when you purchased your MKX, you can download an online copy here: LINK: Owners Manuals Hover your cursor over the "Maintenance" tab, then click on "Owners Manuals". Fill in the proper information in the drop down boxes and download the Manual to your computer. Personally, I would recommend getting headphones (wired or wireless). It will keep the little darlings happier and quieter. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edgy Girl. :D Glad to hear you did not have a problem with replacement. But then again, they certainly should be replaced under warranty. Your wheels should be cleaned and cared for the same way as your cars paint finish. Wash them with a good quality car wash soap. Apply and buff off a coat of good quality car wax (I use Meguiar's Cleaner Wax). Brake dust is highly abrasive and corrosive, so ideally you should wax your wheels each time you wax your car. Do not use spray on mag wheel cleaners, aluminum wheel cleaners, or any other acidic type of wheel cleaner. Essentially, you should treat your wheels just like your paint finish. If you would not use a product on your paint, do not use it on your wheels. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi schrief. :D Great, always a good idea to get our hands dirty and do our own maintenance. Just as an FYI, the "Normal" OCI (oil change interval or maintenance schedule ) is 7,500 miles/6 months for the 3.5 liter engine in the Edge. If your driving qualifies as "Severe Usage" or you tow etc, then it is a 5,000 mile interval. Of course, you are free to follow whatever schedule you wish, so follow the schedule you are most comfortable with. It certainly won't hurt to change it sooner. And I hope your rattle goes away quickly! Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi schrief. :D First, no you will not be charged for it, since your vehicle is still under the 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty. So you don't need to worry about that. There is a relatively common problem with a rattle in the Panoramic Moon Roof, so pay close attention to that area. If that is the problem, there is a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) that the Dealer will be aware of and the fix is an easy one. However, I would still advise waiting until your first service/oil change to bring it in. There is no sense in losing your vehicle for a day or two for a minor rattle (as annoying as I know it is to listen to). It is likely to correct itself in the meantime. Just start a list of any/all minor problems you may have and let the Dealer take care of all of them at the first service. Of course, if you should have any serious problems along the way (fluid leaks, very odd engine noises, etc etc) make an appointment immediately. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - When you purchased your Edge, among the paperwork and booklets you were given is a "Warranty Guide". It explains in detail all of your coverages, Warranty options etc. When you have the time, give it a quick look over. It will help answer a lot of questions, and put future worries to rest.

Hi buckster. :D It sounds as though the rattle may be engine pre-ignition (a.k.a. detonation). Of course, it is hard to diagnose over the Internet. Have you tried running a full tank or two of premium fuel through your car (91-93 octane)? If you did, did the "rattle" disappear or lessen? If it does disappear or lessen when you run premium fuel, it most likely is detonation. The Dealer should be able to fix that easily by properly tuning the vehicle. However, since they are having trouble finding the cause, you may have another/other problems. If your problem continues and they cannot fix it, you should do the following: Find the "Warranty Guide" you were given when you purchased your Edge. The first page lists a "Three Step Process" to follow if your problem is not resolved to your satisfaction. If that does not work, there is an arbitration process to follow through the BBB. If that does not work, your next step is to initiate "Lemon Law" proceedings. The "Warranty Guide" outlines in detail all of these procedures. Do not necessarily expect your Dealer to volunteer the information. As far as they are concerned, you were handed the booklet when you purchased the vehicle, so they assume you have read the Warranty Guide, know the information and will follow it (I am not saying this attitude is the right way for the Dealer to do business, just explaining the way it is). If you can not find your Warranty Guide, you can download an online copy here (you do not mention your model year, so the link is for the 2007 Edge): LINK: Warranty Guide Hope this information helps and good luck. :beerchug: PS - Out of curiosity, what sort of parts are being thrown at your Edge? It would be useful information for you to know.

Hi schrief. :D Eventually take it to the Dealer and let them check it over. I would wait a while though. Some little squeaks and rattles resolve themselves. Maybe have them check it along with any other concerns when you have your first service/oil change performed. But first, have your wife drive the Edge down the same bumpy roads with you in the back seat. See if you can pinpoint where the noise is coming from. You may have better luck. The more precise you can be when explaining things to the Service Writer, the better your luck that they will find the problem. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Embalmer. :D Best wishes to your Mom and her new Edge. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lschwager. :D I answered your PM. Good luck and please let us know how you make out in your negotiations. :beerchug:

Congratulations djust and best of luck! :beerchug:

Hi Lschwager. First, a VIN has 17 digits, so that is an incomplete VIN#. Next, I checked that Dealers stock of AWD Edge Limiteds, and none matched the first 11 digits you have posted. Would you please double check and get back to us with the full VIN? Also, the vehicle must be listed in-stock at the Dealer on Forddirect.com, to be able to check true pricing. Is the vehicle actually at the Dealership now? All things considered, I would say that you should be able to get the price lower than that ($900 over Invoice before fees are included and before Incentives are deducted). Also, you need to know what the actual "Out the Door" price is, including all fees and charges which the Dealer may add to the final purchase contract. No price is good if the Dealer tacks $400-$500 or $1,000 in add-on fees at contract signing time. And that is exactly what most of them do. In the end, how good a price is really depends on whether you are happy or not. But if I were the buyer, I would certainly try to get a lower price. Get back to us with that correct information. Good luck.

Hi Ksaness. :D Yes, only you really can know what is best for your situation. I perfectly understand your point of view and wish you the best of luck. Concerning the Hydro-4000: Please do not waste your money. Let me briefly point out this one major flaw (among several) in the "test" displayed on the video. They state that before installing the Hydro-4000 they measured a MPG figure of 9.4 MPG running at 55 mph for 20 minutes on a dynamometer. That is a ridiculously low MPG figure. They are testing a Dodge Durango. Durango's are EPA rated at 14 city/19 highway. To use a 9 MPG figure as a pre-installation benchmark is ridiculous and obviously a sandbag attempt. They then compare that 9.4 MPG figure to a 23.2 MPG post-installation figure. Jeez, the Durango should have achieved close to a 23.2 MPG figure before the installation, let alone after. Putting it mildly, even in a best case scenario the procedures used in that test were severely flawed. That was more of an infomercial than a news piece, and the figures they use make it obvious. Anyway, in my personal opinion, it is nothing but a scam. Again, best of luck with your Edge, whatever you should decide to do. :beerchug:

Hi CreamEdge and Ksaness. :D CreamEdge, I know you are trying to help, but in reference to what you stated above: You can not compare the selling price/value of two completely different Edges: 1 - When we have no idea if they are different model years. 2 - When we have no idea if they are different models (SE, SEL, SEL Plus, Limited). 3 - When they are likely for sale in two completely different areas. 4 - When we have no idea if they are equipped differently. 5 - When we have no idea if they are in different condition. 6 - When we have no idea if they have different mileage. 7 - Etc. etc. etc. In other words, this is not an apples to apples comparison, so it is not a valid comparison. Selling (and pricing) a vehicle is much more complicated than that. Please understand that I am not trying to bust your chops, just trying to keep the conversation grounded in the facts. And Ksaness, I am not trying to force you to sell privately (if you decide to sell), just trying to help you get the most for your money and time. Additionally, as I believe CreamEdge was saying, keep in mind that the loss you would incur by selling your Edge (or any vehicle this soon) may not be worth it for the gas savings. You need to calculate how much you would actually save by taking a big loss up front trading or selling your Edge (this would happen on any sale) and incurring a new longer loan period etc., versus the possible savings in fuel costs. In the long run, it really may not be worth it. Only you would have all the information to make that decision. Hope you understand what I am saying. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Terry. :D Well, you can start here: LINK: Genuine Ford Accessories Hover your cursor over the "Genuine Ford Accessories" banner towards the top right. Click on "Ford Accessories". Fill in the information for your Edge and browse what is available. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D It is at Joe Cooper Ford. The Initial X-Plan price (before Incentives) of that Edge is $34,866 (MSRP is $37,165). You would be eligible for the same $3,000 in Incentives: $500 Retail Customer Cash, $1500 Bonus Customer Cash, $1000 for owning a non Ford vehicle (if the $1,000 is currently a valid Incentive in your area). That would give you a Final X-Plan Price of $31,866. In addition, no extra fees other than the $75 maximum "Documentation Fee". Can pretty much guarantee that the Dealer will charge much more in fees on that $32,430 Retail (non X-Plan sale). Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D To give an accurate answer to your pricing question we need to know several things. The real VIN (not just what you think it might be) along with the name and ZIP Code of the Dealership. Does that price of $32,430 include all fees and charges, such as "Documentation Fees", "Dealer Prep Fees", "Computer Usage Fees" etc? Those fees need to be figured into the price to give an accurate answer. If that price does not include those fees, you need to find out what the total in extra fees and charges will be. Obviously, the bottom line changes if they are tacking on $300-$400-$500-$1,000 in additional fees and charges. What is the total amount in Rebates/Incentives? I am assuming that price is also not including Tax, Title and Registration? Please post the information and answers to the above questions. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ksaness07. :D Let me try to explain what akirby was saying from another angle. You stated earlier that it was ridiculous for "an almost $30,000 car to only get a $16,000 starting point from a dealer after 14 months of owning it made me laugh". He was merely trying to point out that the Dealer trade-in offer of $16,000 does not represent the true value of your vehicle. It was a ridiculous lowball attempt to rip the customer off if they are foolish enough to fall for it. Unfortunately, this is the prevailing business practice at many Dealerships. Akirby was making an exaggerated analogy pointing out that of course a Dealer is going to lowball on a trade-in. The Dealer is in business to make money however they can, On the trade-in, on the new car sale, on parts, on service etc, etc. Taking a trade-in is a service that a Dealer provides to help make a new car sale. They charge you for that service by lowballing the offer they give you. Essentially, they are charging the customer for the ability to take the easy way out of getting rid of their old car. Then they sell it for a premium to some other buyer later. In other words, it is a win-win for the Dealer, and a lose-lose for the customer (unless the customer does not mind paying for the "Service"). Therefore, in most (essentially almost all) cases, trading in is the sure way to not get full value and lose money. To truly compare depreciation, we need to compare that "almost $30,000" new value to the "$22,000+ range" Retail Value (or at the very least, the "Private Sale" value) in KBB, Edmunds, etc. In general, that is the true Depreciation. And before anyone jumps in to state the obvious: Of course the "true" value is only what you can actually get someone to pay. But we have to use some starting figures to have an intelligent conversation, so KBB, Edmunds, etc it is. We cannot compare the Retail value new to the "Trade-in" value used. It is an apples to oranges comparison. Again, apples to apples is Retail Value New to Retail Value Used (or at least Private Party Sale value). All of that being said, it is almost always the better proposition to sell your used vehicle privately, especially if it is a well maintained "Excellent condition" vehicle. I always sell my old vehicles privately, on the advice many years ago of a business associate of my Father who owned the local Ford Dealership. As he put it, "I am in business to make money, so even being a good friend of your Father, I cannot give you the amount of money for your used cars that you can make on your own. A smart customer will always sell their car privately, so that is what I recommend you do". I was 21 at the time, buying my first "new from the factory" car. I followed his good advice then, and have followed it ever since for every car I have ever owned. Over the years, I have been able to sell my old cars for a minimum profit of $1,500 more than the Dealer trade-in offer. And that minimum profit includes the sales tax hit on the new car. It is an art to assess the value of your used car and sell it for a tidy profit. That art is much easier nowadays when we can all access tons of information right on our desktop computers. Ksaness, just give selling privately some serious thought. It is well worth the little bit of time and effort. I am sure you know most/all of this information already, but figured it may be helpful to someone along the way. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi djust. :D The answer to that question will vary according to what size tire will be on the 18" wheel. What size will the new 18" tires be (and what size were the old 20" tires)? If you are going from stock 20" wheels/tires to stock 18" wheel tires, an adjustment usually should not be necessary. By stock I mean the OEM factory sizes from Ford. Even if the odometer does need to be adjusted, it is a quick reprogramming of the computer module. It is not as though they have to remove the old odometer and put in a new one. Good luck. PS - The fast fingers of akirby beat me by a minute again! Curses!

Hi Embalmer and akirby. :D I believe it is simply a discount on an option package including the Vista roof and upgraded sound system. Not exactly a Rebate/Incentive in the classic sense that we are used to when we do pricing, akirby. Is my memory correct that you had a Fusion? What are you doing with it? Keeping, trading, selling privately? Anyway, hope your wait is a short one. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi longhorn. :D Wow, that is great. Did not realize you had that benefit. As akirby stated, here in the U.S Lincoln only offers one year free maintenance. So on my MKZ that essentially worked out to two oil changes/tire rotations. Best of luck with your MKX, whichever one you should decide on! :beerchug:

Hi longhorn. :D If you can afford the new one without selling a kidney, I would purchase the new one. Just my opinion. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Are you sure about the 4 years of "free maintenance"? The reason I ask is that would be a Dealer add on, not a Lincoln feature.

Hi longhorn. :D There will be slight variations in color for exactly the reason you stated, the difference in the material being painted (plastic versus steel). It is usually more noticeable in lighter colors (like the one you are looking at) and also in metallic paints. Generally, it should not be anything to overly worry about. It will seem more pronounced according to the viewing angle and light. I'm not sure if the MKX you are looking at is a new leftover, or a used car, but if it is used the color variation can also be more noticeable if whoever owned it before waxed the steel body panels, but not the bumper covers. Does this mean that the bumper cover was not repainted? Well, that is impossible to tell without seeing it in person. Have you asked the Dealer/seller if it was repainted? Unlikely that thety would have repainted both bumpers, but not needed to repaint body panels. Have you though about asking to take it for a test drive and taking it to a collision shop you trust. A trained eye might be able to tell if it was painted. My educated guess is it is nothing to worry about , since color variation is normal in plastic vs. metal. Good luck. :beerchug:

I will just copy and paste my reply from your other post attacking people for trying to help you do something other than bitch and moan. Here it is: Well, I was trying to give you some guidance to help solve your problems. Remember, the ones you posted about all over the place? You complained here LINK: Report Your Complaints! and in multiple other posts about not being able to get any resolution to your concerns from the Dealership Service Department? Recall that? Well, in your Warranty Booklet is a detailed description of the remediation process to follow if you have the specific type of problem you are complaining about. Phone numbers, addresses, organizations, etc etc. It is called a "Conflict Resolution Process". To assist you, I even included a link to the Ford website in my post, so you could download a copy of the Warranty Booklet in case you could not find yours. There was no joke involved. I was just an individual making an honest attempt to help someone who "seemed" to be asking for help. Unfortunately, I can now see that I was mistaken. You were not really asking for help. The above reply of yours makes it clear that you are the type that would rather complain (and make sarcastic remarks) than follow good advice and actually do something. If you wanted to do something other than endlessly bitch and moan, you would have read your Warranty Booklet as I suggested in your post here LINK:Report Your Complaints! over a week and a half ago. Then, you would know what procedures and conflict resolution processes I was referencing. I should not need to type them out for you. Since you would rather attack those who might be willing to help guide you, I will now let you continue with your Internet letter writing campaign. I will not make the mistake of trying to help you again. You have all the answers, so good luck.