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Hi Edge08. :D If it is rail dust, it can be removed by anyone who knows the least bit about car detailing. Rail dust will just be rail/railyard contamination that is sitting on the surface and slightly embedded in the paint/glass. A good auto detail shop will just claybar the car, or use other specialized products that are made specifically for this problem. In fact, one or two have already been mentioned in previous threads in these forums. If the contamination is under the clearcoat or colorcoat, it is not rail dust. It is something that was on the color coat before the clearcoat was applied. Short of having the paint stripped and re-painted, there is nothing that will fix that. But since you say it is on the glass and headlight covers, it is most likely rail dust or some other type of environmental fallout. Do not have your car repainted. You will never be happy with the job. Short of a full custom paint job (very expensive and not what you will get from the Dealer/Ford), the re-paint will never look as good as the factory paint job. If it is rail dust and Ford will give you a new car (highly doubtful for a problem like this), great, but do-not accept a re-paint. Tell them to have a good detailer remove the rail dust with a claybar or other specialized treatment. It is easy. In fact, it is so easy, you can do it yourself with about $25 worth of claybar and detail spray. But since the vehicle is new, have the Dealer take care of it. If the contamination is under the clearcoat or colorcoat, insist they take the vehicle back. Do not accept a re-paint. It will never be like a proper factory paint job. Of course, this is my opinion and others may disagree. But it's my advice. for what it is worth. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 3-mer. :D Glad things finally worked out. Hope you have said a permanent goodbye to the other Dealership. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dtappeiner. :D Yes, taking it to the Dealer for service would be your best course of action. In the mean time, see if you can duplicate the problem under particular driving conditions. In this way, if you can duplicate it while you have the car in for service (short drive with the Tech when you drop it off), it will be easier for the Tech to find the possible cause. Internet diagnosis is spotty at best, and worthless at its worst. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi hmayeu2. :D I would recommend that you leave it alone for now. It does not sound like it is important enough to make a special service trip for (unless you feel it is also causing a wind or water leak). So, next time you have your car to the Dealer for regular service, point it out to the Service Adviser. In this way, if it is something that needs to be corrected (instead of just tucked back in), they can fix it. If it just needs to be tucked back in, they can do it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Chris. :D As akirby stated, there is no deductible during Ford's 3 year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty period, or the 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty. A thought or two concerning your problem: In addition to the possibility of some sort of steering rack problem, there is also the possibility of a problem with your power steering pump. I say this since you state "that when sitting still (foot on the brake), in Drive, the steering wheel is all but impossible to turn." This is often a sign of a defective power steering pump. Have you checked the power steering fluid level in the power steering pump? If you have not, you should take a look. Either way, whether you take it to Carmax before their 30 day Warranty expires, or take it to Ford, I would recommend taking it in as soon as possible, as this is an unsafe condition. I have not dealt with Carmax, so I do not know if it may be better to have them look at it first, so as to preserve any contractual protection you may have through your purchase with them. Let us know how you make out. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi sanche. :D No, the TPMS system (and warning) can not be turned off. At least to my knowledge, no one has come up with a simple way to disable it yet (one that would not involve altering/disabling the electrical system). You have several immediate options: 1 - Purchase new sensors and bands to put on the new wheels. 2 - Transfer the old sensors to the new wheels (not really viable if you are using dedicated summer and winter wheels). 3 - Put up with the warning light being always on/cover it up. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi jenetix. :D The Dealer rep does not know what they are talking about. It is the aftermarket (KARR?) alarm causing the honking. Unfortunately you have an aftermarket Alarm System, so it works in a completely different manner than the Ford Factory System. The Ford Factory system works as we described in our earlier posts above: No honk (lights flash once) for one click of the lock button on the remote, unless a door is ajar. Two clicks of the lock button will give one honk (and lights flash). No honks at all for clicking the unlock button (no matter how many times you hit it). Just as it is described in the Edge Owners Manual. Were you given a manual with your aftermarket system?. If you were not, I would ask the Dealer for one. In this way, you may be able to read it and learn more than the Salesman knows. Most aftermarket systems can be programmed for a "silent mode" for exactly the reasons you want it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi chrismdusa. :D If my understanding of the Ford Nav System is correct, the DVD does not "update" the system. The NAV system simply reads from the DVD as you are driving. The system is listed as being "DVD Based". This means that the DVD must be inserted in the NAV system whenever it is being used. So while a single DVD can be used in multiple vehicles, it can only be in one vehicle at a time. In other words, if the DVD is not in the unit, the system will not operate. It is not like a software update (i.e a Windows Update), that only needs to be inserted once to update, then removed until there is a newer update. The DVD must be in the system for the system to operate. Of course, purchasing the latest update, then making an "archive copy" for yourself is perfectly legal. If I am incorrect, I am sure someone will let you know. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 08LTDEDGE. :D There is no difference. X-Plan is X-Plan. I will not get into a lot of explanations and definitions, but the Ambassador designation has nothing to do with the PIN itself. It only has to do with a rewards program for Ford Employees who give out a certain number of PINS. If family Plan ricing is truly being offered in your area, it will be a better price than the X-Plan. However, to satisfy your curiosity, have the Dealer show you both prices (X and A-Plan). They are both listed on the Factory Invoice for every vehicle, and the Dealer is required to show the Factory Invoice to you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Ky Bob. :D You can purchase all of the necessary parts individually (i.e. fog lights, wiring harnesses, switches, bezels etc. etc.) from your Ford or Lincoln-Mercury Dealers Parts Department (if they are competent), or from various online sources such as Team Ford Parts Online. What you can not purchase from Ford is a single kit that has all of the necessary parts in it. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - On a side note, I hope your screen name alludes to the fact that you are from Kentucky?

Hi CliffsEdge. :D Please take a deep breath, set aside your anger for a few minutes and re-read my previous reply. Whether intentionally or accidentally, you skipped right over the information I provided concerning the BBB Auto Line Arbitration Program. I am sure it was an accidental oversight, but if you really want assistance, please do not pick and choose what advice you will acknowledge. No offense to you or anyone here, but it does not matter how many Lemon Law battles someone claims they won, cars they forced Dealers or Manufacturers to take back, or any other great stories that may be told. You are posting here because you are not winning this one, right? There is a correct set of procedures already in place for you to use if you are not happy. And if you are as familiar with legal procedure as you say you are, you should understand that following the proper procedures will get you much further than screaming "lawsuit". Well, until now you are not availing yourself of the tools and procedures available to assist you in accomplishing what you are asking for, which is to get your "MPG fixed". I introduced you to the BBB Auto Line Program which is explained in detail in the Warranty Guide Booklet which you received when you purchased your Edge, and even provided a link to a Ford website which would allow you to download a copy of your Warranty Guide in case you lost yours. The "BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU (BBB) AUTO LINE PROGRAM" is set up exactly for the purpose of allowing unsatisfied customers (such as yourself) to have their complaints heard by a third party arbitrator. And again, the decision made by the Arbitration Board is binding on Ford and the Dealer, but not you. So it is a no lose proposition. The BBB Auto Line Program is not the Lemon Law. It allows an unsatisfied customer to be heard and subsequently require Ford/The Dealer to address the customers unresolved concerns. It is essentially the last step before the Lemon Law. You may not be as familiar with these proceedings as you think. Read your Warranty Guide booklet, follow the instructions for remediation, then let us know what happened. Also, please re-read what you previously posted: "3. I cannot lemon it because they refuse to acknowledge there is something wrong in the first place. They are hiding behind the infamous "mileage may vary" which gives them a get out of jail free card." That statement shows that you are either not as familiar with the "Lemon Law" as you think, or you seriously misspoke. Again, you (the customer) initiate the "Lemon Law" process. It does not matter whether the manufacturer disagrees and says nothing is wrong. If having the Manufacturer agree there was a problem was a prerequisite for Lemon Law status, no Lemon Law proceeding would ever make it to Arbitration. Who is right will be decided by the Lemon Law Arbitration Board. Ford and the Dealer can not stop you from initiating the proceedings if you desire to. And I understand that you now say you prefer not to "Lemon Law" your vehicle. I carefully read your reply and understand that the "Lemon Law" is not your first choice of solutions. However, if your car can not be fixed to your satisfaction, it may be your only choice for remediation. Following the proper course of action that is specifically described in the "Warranty Guide" would certainly seem to make more sense than having an Internet argument with those who possibly may not agree with you? We can all post great stories of our past and present job titles, legal battles, family connections etc, etc (or ad nauseum, as you stated). When it comes down to it, everyone here will believe your stories just as much as you will believe ours. Essentially, it is all Internet BS. And just to make this clear, I am not attacking you. I would also not expect anyone on the Internet to believe or care if I were to start telling them how important I, my family, or my friends may or may not be. I am simply stating the obvious. You must avail yourself of the tools available. And no one believes or cares about the rest of the stories, just as you would not be foolish enough to believe any BS we told you about our alleged life experiences. Does it matter or do you really care if me, my Father, or my good friends are corporate lawyers? Well, that feeling goes both ways. It is useless information, whether it is true or not (I am not judging whether it is true or isn't, does not matter, do not care). I am not attempting to hold you to any higher of a standard than myself or others should be held to. You need to follow the process set in place (and explained in your Warranty Guide). Otherwise you are just another individual yelling Lawyer and Lawsuit, and most people are turned off by that behavior, as you should know. So I hope you will take the time to read your Warranty Guide Booklet and follow the advice contained in it. Follow the proper steps and hopefully your problems will be resolved to your satisfaction. When someone is providing solid advice and earnestly trying to help you, you should take that advice. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hello CliffsEdge. :D This reply is only in response to what you stated in #3 above: Perhaps the processes have changed since you were involved in a Dealership. As an FYI, the process of having a vehicle declared defective under the "Lemon Law" is not begun by Ford or the Dealer. The process is initiated by you, the customer. It is up to you to read your "Warranty Guide" Booklet and begin the process of filing the proper paperwork. You need to carefully read your "Warranty Guide" booklet, which was given to you when you purchased the vehicle (Note: The "Warranty Guide" not the "Owners Manual" or "Maintenance Schedule") Your first step is to initiate a claim through the "BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU (BBB) AUTO LINE PROGRAM". This is an arbitration program that is set up to assist Ford Customers who feel that they are not getting a satisfactory response through the Dealer and Ford. Any decisions made by the BBB Auto Line program are binding on Ford, but not on you. In other words, if you do not like the decision made by the BBB, you can still go ahead and start Lemon Law proceedings, or your class action lawsuit. However, you need to understand that if you are still not satisfied then you would begin Lemon Law procedures. The Dealer and Ford do not begin the process, you must. You are the one not satisfied, they feel they are correct at the moment. To ask them to voluntarily start the procedure is like asking someone to hire the lawyer to sue them self. It is just not the way it is done. If you can not find your Warranty Guide, you can download a PDF version here: LINK: Warranty Guides Hover your cursor over the blue "Maintenance" banner, then click on "Owners Manuals". Fill in the drop down boxes then click submit. Click on "Warranty Guides". Look in the table of contents for the "BETTER BUSINESS BUREAU (BBB)AUTO LINE PROGRAM" and the Lemon Law advisories. Again, perhaps this process has changed since you were involved in a Dealership. I am not making a judgment on your complaints, just trying to show you how to take care of it in the proper manner. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Cannon. :D No, you do not have to get new shocks. You can use the Factory shocks until they need to be replaced. However, keep in mind that your Factory shocks will wear out faster with the new springs (assuming they are more aggressive and lower the ride stance), due to the altered suspension dynamics. How much quicker? Nobody can predict that. It depends on driving environment. So the rougher the roads you drive on, the heavier the wear on the shocks, and the sooner they will wear out. When they do, simply replace them with better aftermarket shocks. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi KOOLFORD. :D As druck52 correctly stated, there is no third row of seats in the Edge. It is strictly a two row, 5 seater. So the liner you saw on the Husky website is the one you are looking for. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ILMKXOWNR. :D Concerning the "Control Arms": To try and explain again, there is nothing in a control arm to leak, even if it is "crimped too tightly". Also, there are no recognized problems with control arms. Simply put, a control arm is just a suspension component made out of a hunk of metal. It contains no oil or fluids. It can not leak anything because it has nothing in it. It is just a piece of metal. So whatever is leaking is not coming from the control arms in your vehicle. The Dealer Tech either described the problem incorrectly, or there was some miscommunication when he/she spoke to you. That being understood, there is a recognized problem with leaking PTU units (or boxes, cases, however one may describe it). This has to do with a bad seal in the unit. I have feeling that is your leaking part. As far as the "memory seats", I was only taking a wild stab at the problem and surmising that if you had purchased used the previous owner may have programmed the fobs, so therefore when you and your wife were using them, it was changing the settings without you realizing. But since you purchased new, this will not be the case. We are back to having to replicate the problem for the Dealership. Hope they find the cause soon. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi druck52. :D Like you, I too am just trying to help, and trying to be nice. It is extremely frustrating to have a "can not replicate" type of problem. In no way am I trying to put ILMKXOWNR or anyone else down by giving corrected information (concerning the "control arm" definition). We are all here to learn, and we will all make mistakes at some time or another. The way I look at it, the only way to learn is by listening to each other. Live and learn, right? Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi ILMKXOWNR. :D Sorry to hear about your problems. As druck52 was trying to explain, it is always hard for a Dealership to fix an "intermittent" problem, if it does not occur when they have the car. Just curious, did you purchase new or used? Also, did you program the keyless remotes to recognize two different drivers and their individual seat settings? If you did, this could be part of the problem. Concerning your "leaking control arm". What druck52 was trying to explain is this: You are mixing up the "control arm" with the name of another leaking/defective part on your Edge. Control Arms can not leak. They essentially are just hunks of metal. They have no fluid in them and are just bolted to other hunks of metal. Whatever is leaking on your Edge is not a control arm. You can have a leaking shock absorber/strut, a leaking transfer case (PTU), an oil leak, etc. etc., but not a leaking "control arm". Also, you could have one of the above leaking onto a control arm. Ask the Dealership what the name of the leaking part actually is. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fraychild. :D Well then as I mentioned, since the Lincoln also has a "Cooled Seating" function (air conditioned), the pin outs in the connectors will be different. I am sure you could (if necessary)purchase and splice-in the corresponding connector and just not use the "Cooed Seat" wires. Just need to find out which are the correct wires. Or possibly, the corresponding Edge/MKX connectors will be compatible, with the cooled seat pinouts just not being used for the Edge. Either way, it is certainly a simple fix. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi LuvmyAWD. :D I am not sure how you handled showing the Dealer Service Representative the problem when you brought your Edge there, but this is what I would recommend: Bring your vehicle to the Dealer and ask to have a Technician go for a ride with you. While on the ride, try to replicate the problem. If the problem happens while they are with you, it is much harder to say that "everything is fine, there are no problems". If you only leave the vehicle there for them to check, without requesting a Tech to ride with you, they will only spend a limited amount of time to replicate the problem before they give up. If they can not replicate the problem while they are driving it, they cannot diagnose or fix it. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi skimaniaz. :D The Ford and GM transmissions you are talking about share a majority of the same hardware, but have different software, programming and other minor pieces. Concerning your two questions. First: The Edge has had a TSB for a re-flash. If your Edge is eligible for the re-flash, it will change the shifts slightly. It will not shift like a Buick (whether for better or worse). Second: No, there is no way (within reason) to modify your transmission to enable shifting it manually. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fraychild. :D They should physically fit, as the bolt positions should be the same. However, since the MKX also has cooled seats, it is likely that the pin connections on the electrical connections are different. Have you thought about simply adding the Edge leather seats? There are also some companies that make very nice aftermarket leather seat covers to replace the cloth. Katzkin is one. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fraychild. :D They should physically fit, as the bolt positions should be the same. However, since the MKX also has cooled seats, it is likely that the pin connections on the electrical connections are different. Have you thought about simply adding the Edge leather seats? There are also some companies that make very nice aftermarket leather seat covers to replace the cloth. Katzkin is one. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi dammm. :D In my opinion, your best ammunition would be the following: If the Service Department tells you that the whine is "normal" ask the Service Manager to sit in another Edge or two with you and show you that they make the same noise. If they do not, it certainly can not be considered normal. If you take the time to check a few Edges on the lot beforehand, you will have proof to show them right there. Let's hope they are reasonable. Even that does not work sometimes with an unreasonable Service Rep. That would likely be a better strategy than just telling the Service Reps some anecdotal evidence from a website forum (us). Believe me, I am not taking their side, just thinking ahead to what will work better for you. Most Service Department Reps just couldn't care care less when we tell them that "I read on a Fusion Forum about...". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi 3-mer. :D What reason did the Dealers Service Department give for not replacing it under Warranty? Unless they claim that there was some sort of outside damage (collision, vandalism etc.), it is a Warranty covered item. You need to go back and politely insist that they replace it. Ask to speak to the Service Manager (if you have not already done so), not the Service Writers. If he can not give you a reason why it was refused, insist it be taken care of. Now, assuming that there was actually no outside cause to the damage/problem: If they still refuse, let them know (again, politely but firmly) that they will lose your service dollars if they refuse to fix this under Warranty. If they still refuse, let them know that you are extremely dissatisfied that they would decline to replace an obviously defective piece while your car is still under Warranty, and that if they will not satisfy your request, that you will be forced to find another Dealer, one that knows how to correctly service their customers vehicles. Perhaps it is all a misunderstanding and they will see the light. But if they don't, be prepared to follow through with your statement. Why would you want to continue to do business with a Dealership that will stick it to you on the small things? It will only happen sooner or later on the bigger things. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Jenn. :D If you are concerned about the ability of your AC to cool the vehicle (if it seems seems weak/inadequate), I would still bring it to the attention of the Service Department next time you have it in for regular service. Just do it before your Bumper to Bumper Warranty expires. If your concern is that it is cooling enough but you just cannot direct the airflow enough towards yourself with the vent controls, then yes it seems that is a common complaint. Closing the other vents will give you some added airflow out of the open ones, but unfortunately, you still won't be able to direct it any better. Good luck. :beerchug: