bbf2530

Hi Charlie. :D As akirby, Grey and others have already stated, fees and charges on A-Plan sales are limited to a $75 maximum 'Documentation Fee". No other "Dealer Added" charges are permitted. So your Purchase Contract should only contain the A-Plan Price (the price listed in the box labeled A-Plan on the original copy of the Factory Invoice), any charges for Dealer installed options (pinstriping, Extended Service Plans etc.) a $75 max "Doc Fee", Tax, Title and Registration Fees and then any deductions for Incentive and Rebate deductions you qualify for. No $399 "Admin Fee". Also, your mother-in-law can sign you up for the myplan.ford.com website, which gives you access to all of the same information we are giving you, and more. I would recommend you ask her to do that for you. If she does not know how, she can call Plan Headquarters and they will explain the process to her. Just as a side note, there is absolutely no reason that the Dealer would need you to get a new A-Plan PIN, other than the fact that they do not know Plan rules (unless it was issued over a year ago). Incentives are based on what is currently available, not what was available in May when you ordered, or June. But there is no harm in doing to speed things up. Just be sure that the old one is canceled by your mother-in-law. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi hvacbob. :D Well, just to keep things in context, "Snowdevil" was the original poster who asked about Incentives, and "Snowdevil" was also the individual who then asked about Extended Warranties, so it mutated at his/her request. We just "aims" to please! But trust me, I know what you mean about "subject drift" and "post hijackings" in other cases. Concerning the Incentive question: Ford, like most automakers in this uncertain economy, will probably be adjusting Incentives on a running/flexible basis, especially considering the fact that many of their models are at the end of the 2008 model year cycle with 2009's arriving as we speak. Incentives will be adjusted regionally to help reduce vehicle stock in areas that need it. So essentially, there will be Incentives in other areas of the country that you /I will not even hear about in our Region (and vice-versa). It is one of the recent changes Ford has made at the request of their Dealership body: More flexibility in dealing with regional overstocks of particular models. Good luck! :beerchug:

Hi snowdevil. :D I just wanted to ask a few questions and possibly give some advice. 1 - Do you know that your vehicle comes with a 3 Year/36,000 mile Bumper to Bumper Warranty and a 5 year/60,000 mile Powertrain Warranty? 2 - How many miles do you normally drive a year? 3 - Will you be driving 25,000 miles a year? Here is the reason I ask. If you will not be driving close to 25,000 miles a year, you are paying $1,100 for only one more year of Bumper to Bumper Coverage (3 years vs. 4 years), since the 4 years will run out long before you drive 100,000 miles. For example, you can get a 4 year/48,000 mile, 60,000 mile, etc etc. Or 5 year/36,000 mile, 48,000 mile, 60,000 mile etc. Of course, there are many more combinations, up to 7 years/100,000 miles (I believe). To give you an idea: I have a 2001 Mercury Cougar. Taking my low annual mileage usage into consideration, I purchased a 7 year/36,000 miles Premium Care Extended Warranty. My 7 years will be up this September, and I currently have 32,000 miles on it (made a lucky guess and pretty much hit the mileage nail on the head). If I had purchased a 48,000, 60,000 or 100,000 mileage limit, I would have paid more for mileage I never used (the higher the years and/or mileage, the higher the cost). In other words, there are other ESP Plan time and mileage durations that may better fit your driving habits (and save you money). 25,000 miles a year just seems like a lot of driving (well at least for me). Additionally, have you used the Ford ESP site to see which ESP Plan suits your driving needs the best? Here is a link: LINK: Ford ESP Plans You can use the website to shop Plans, Prices and Year/Mileage combinations. The Plan prices on this site are the Ford List Prices (MSRP). you can also use this pricing to leverage better pricing from your Dealer. The pricing of ESP Plans are negotiable, just like a cars purchase price. I hope my explanations are not too confusing, and please forgive me in advance if you already knew this information. I just figured better safe than sorry. Good luck. :beerchug:

Lex, I knew that the other day, the first time I read the website (had no trouble understanding the site). Therefore, I am not sure how many times I have to repeat that "I am only trying to help you purchase the "Paint Decontamination Kit" (if you are really interested), not debate the clarity of the website." At this point I get the feeling you have no intention of purchasing the products, or you already would have done so and dropped this seemingly argumentative behavior. Not sure what the point of your above quote is. To tell us that bird droppings are corrosive? Yes, we already knew that. To tell us what products they recommend? Yes, we already provided a link to the pages necessary for anyone to check it out and purchase. I already know how to take care of my car and have all the products I need. I had no trouble understanding/navigating the website (and also did not give you a hard time/busted chops for any trouble you may have had). Even stated I could see how the website could be difficult to navigate If you are really interested in purchasing the "Paint Decontamination Kit", I have provided a link to how you can do it. If you are just looking for an argument, I am not sure why as all I have done here is try to help you. A quick recap of this thread. 1 - Hardhawk complained about staining on his bumper cover from bird poop. 2 - Edgey1 let us know about the "Paint Decontamination Products". He highly recommended them. 3 - You complained that the website 'sucks and you cannot even buy a system of products". 4 - Since you could not find the kits on the website, I let you know where they were. Even provided a link to order page. 5 - You complained that the kits were only in the "Professionals" section. 6 - I let you know that there is a small sample kit available in the "Consumer" products section. 7 - You complained that it does not have the exact products that you want. 8 - I explained why: The FK-1 products are mainly being marketed towards Professional Detailers/Car Preppers, not individual consumers like us. And that the products are available in the "Consumer Section" for individual purchase and the aforementioned sample kit 9 - You continue to complain (do you see a pattern here?). When most people receive gracious assistance from others (like Edgey1 and I have tried to provide) they usually say thanks and move on. They usually don't keep complaining about minuscule things, griping about not being able to decipher a website, and posting obscure quotes. A simple "Thanks" would suffice. Or even no griping. Therefore, I am not sure why this problem goes on. Either purchase the "Paint Decontamination Kit" or use a ph balanced car detailer like Meguiar's Quik Detailer (as was mentioned in your post concerning bird droppings. We have tried being polite and helpful, and just seem to get static for our troubles. I do not understand why. I am really trying to give you the benefit of the doubt that this is all a misunderstanding and you are not just looking for an argument. So it is perfectly clear, I just wish to be able to help people on this website (including you, if you will allow it) in some state of peace, without needless arguing, debate or uncalled for contradiction. Please keep that in mind when you post again. PS - If this behavior has to do with our past arguments, I have tried to forgive and forget and treat it like water under the bridge (as I said I would). If you can not/will not do that, just let me know now and I will cease attempting to answer any questions you post on these forums in the future. I am trying to be polite and helpful, it is up to you.

Hi zepher. :D You do not mention a year (2007 etc.) or trim level (SE, SEL etc.), so without researching whether all Edge models came standard with an alarm from the factory, I can't answer your question off the top of my head. However, you can find out yourself. So to put your mind at ease, do the following: 1 - Go out to your Edge and roll the drivers window down 2 - Exit the vehicle and lock the doors with the keyfob (remote button). 3 - Go into your house (or sit on your front steps for a minute of two). 4 - After a minute or two, reach in through the open window and open the door using the inside door handle (do not unlock the car first). 5 - If you have an alarm, it will sound off. If you hear nothing, you do not have a factory alarm system. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

EDITED - Hi Lex (and Edgey1). :D Lex, I am only trying to help you purchase the "Paint Decontamination Kit" (if you are really interested), not debate the clarity of the website. I already stated that I can see how the website may be confusing to some people. My previous post (#8) clearly explains where the confusion lies, if one takes the time to read it carefully. An additional reason for your confusion, and why the full "Paint Decontamination System Kits" are not listed in the "Consumer Products" section is the following: This system is mainly being marketed to Professional Detailers and Vehicle Preppers who have a need to completely wash down multiple cars (i.e vehicles that have been delivered to Dealerships and are suffering from environmental fallout conditions during transport or subsequent outdoor storage). It is not really marketed as a spot treatment for individual vehicles or consumers (like us), which is what those with bird droppings trouble really need (unless our cars are playing a part in Hitchcock movies). In other words, the reason why the kits are not listed in the "Consumer Products" section is because essentially the kits are not marketed towards individual consumers. They are marketed towards the Professional. Now an Editorial opinion concerning this product, to anyone who cares: Please don't misunderstand what I am saying. It does seem like a very good product (for those it is marketed for/needed by). And it is good that Edgey1 made it known for those who may really need it. Again however, it is really aimed at Professional Detailers. The average consumer needs no more than either a good "Clay Bar System", or a good clearcoat safe paint polish and/or compound if the "ClayBar" does not work. The average "consumer" does not really need a $46-$151 "bird poop decontamination system" (yes, I do realize it is useful for all environmental fallout). If anyone else is truly interested in the full "Paint Decontamination System Kits" Edgey1 recommended, they are available in three sizes, as shown in the link in my previous post (again Post #8). Here is the link again: LINK: Paint Decontamination If you do not want to buy the kit, it is easy to find and purchase the individual components in the Consumer and/or Professional sections of the website. Heck, could/should the website be easier to understand/navigate? Sure, why not. But at least anyone who wants to buy a "Paint Decontamination System Kit" now knows how. Other than that, I will leave the "How clear the website is" debate to others who have the time, inclination and the desire to complain to the company about the website. I am simply trying to help those who had/may have trouble deciphering the website to purchase this product (if they are interested). I do not need the product, have never used it, personally had no trouble navigating the website or finding the "kits". I believe I have done my part for the team. :angel: Again I was simply trying to help you and others. Good luck. :beerchug:

Actually, there is also a small kit available on this "Consumer" Page: LINK: Paint Decontamination Seems to be no applicators included though. I do agree that the website may be hard to navigate. At the least, those interested now have a place to start. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Edgey1 and Lex. :D The full kits can be purchased. They are listed on this page of the website: LINK: Paint Decontamination Start looking at the very top under "1119 / 883 PAINT DECONTAMINATION KITS". There are at least three different sizes. As a hint, you are looking for the kits labeled "DK-1B", "DK-1", or "DK-2". My guess is "DK-1" would probably be the best one to get, if someone really wanted to purchase this system and have all the proper applicators etc.. "DK-1B" states that there are no applicators or paint sealant included, and DK-2 is probably a bulk supply for a Professional Detailer. The bottles are all labeled "FK-1". They are not labeled 1-2-3-4 like in the first page that Edgey1 linked to. That is probably where the confusion is coming from. Click on the "view label" button located to the right of each kits price to see what I am describing. The website can be a little confusing at first, but all the products are listed and available in kit form. Hope this information helps. Just want to add that I have never tried these products and do not know if they are worth the price, so I am not endorsing them, simply trying to help you guys find the correct pages of the website to look on. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi hardhawk. :D I would recommend you try a good "ClayBar System" first. I would recommend either Meguiar's or Mother's. Do not use the "Turtle Wax Liquid ClayBar" for this problem. It is not a real claybar. Read the directions and follow them to the letter. If several tries with the Claybar does not work, you will need to use a more abrasive solution, such a as a "Clearcoat Safe" Polishing or Rubbing Compound. I would also recommend Meguiar's or Mother's products for this next step (I am partial to Meguiar's). I am sure other forum members will have their own favorites. Again, follow the directions to the letter for whatever product you should try. According to how deeply the stain has penetrated you may not be able to get it out completely. This is not the fault of the bumper plastic, as the bird dropping actually stained the paint, not the plastic. It is also not a flaw in the paint. The acids in bird poop are extremely corrosive, and will do damage in a short time if not removed relatively quickly. You just happened to get a really bad one. Hope this information helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fordchic. :D Just addressing the above Edge/Flex statement. As others have already stated (with varying degrees of humor), your information is incorrect. The Flex is not replacing the Edge. They are two completely different vehicles, completely different sizes, different seating arrangements (Edge is 5 passengers, Flex is 6-7), and are aimed at two completely different demographics/buyers. They will both be available for a long time to come. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi snowdevil. :D The current Incentives programs in your area run through 6/30, and are as follows: $1000 Retail Customer Cash, $1000 Retail Customer Cash and $500 Ford Credit Bonus Customer Cash. The website does not mention a $1,000 Competitive Vehicle Incentive, but it is possible that it is only a Regional Incentive so not listed. No one other than Ford would know yet what the July Incentives will be, and they do not make that information public beforehand. However, with the current state of the economy, July's Incentives will likely be equal to or greater than those currently available. As far as pricing: You should certainly be able to get pricing down to the Invoice level minus rebates with good negotiating skills. X-Plan pricing is only a hundred dollars or so below Invoice price, so you may be able to approach that, then also subtract available Incentives. However, you will not be able to get the Dealer down to AZ-Plan pricing. AZ-Plan (Ford Employee/Retiree) pricing will be a quite a bit lower than Invoice or X-Plan pricing, and D-Plan (Dealer Employee) pricing is only $100 more than AZ-Plan. Without a AZ-Plan PIN, AZ-Plan pricing (and then still expecting to get Incentives/Rebates subtracted) would be an extremely unrealistic expectation. Ford is offering "Employee Pricing" on their slower selling (due to gas prices) large trucks, but the Edge is not included in that Incentive Program as they are selling in good numbers. Concerning your trade-in: If you want a fair price, your only option is to sell it on your own. You will never receive a fair offer from a Dealership. Even if they had someone who wanted to buy your truck for $20,000, they would still tell you they had no one interested. They are in business to make money on your new car purchase and your trade-in. The Dealer offers you the option of a "trade-in" as a service to you, and you pay for the privilege of that service. Put "For Sale" signs on it now and let any interested buyers know that you are waiting for a new car to arrive. I always do the same and have always been able to find a buyer willing to wait. Additionally, if your vehicle comes in earlier, tell the Dealer you can not purchase until you get a private buyer for your truck, or a fairer trade-in value for it. If they feel they will have to wait for the sale, they may up their trade-in offer. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi JRavey. :D "They all do that" is all to often the answer that less competent Dealers give when confronted with problems. The solution is easy. Test the Navigation System in two or three other Edge's on the lot at Koons Ford. Assuming they do not exhibit the same static problems as yours, present your findings to the Service Manager. Ask him/her to sit in the other vehicles and listen to the Nav System in the other Edge's. If they don't exhibit the same static/sound quality concerns, it can't be a case of it is "supposed to sound like that". Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi solas. :D Let me apologize in advance if I am explaining things here that you already understand. I am just not sure where to start. I agree with your thoughts on the "best thing to do". If you want to perform your first oil change early (before 5,000-7,500 miles, according to which OCI schedule you are using), re-fill with the Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic or equivalent. Then when you perform your second oil change, switch to a Full-Synthetic if you wish. Just wait until after the break-in period (after at least 3,000 total miles) for the Full-Synthetic switch. And of course we should always change the filter when we change the oil. All in all, it sounds as though you have certainly come up with a sensible plan. Concerning "friction coefficient" (or coefficient of friction) and "viscosity": Very, very simply put, the friction coefficient is simply a mathematical figure representing how easily two objects can slide on each other. In other words, your shoes on ice would have a lower friction coefficient than your shoes on concrete. Now put oil on the bottom of your shoes (or the concrete), and the friction coefficient between your shoes and that concrete would then be lowered. So in layman's terms, think of it as how slippery it is between two objects. Viscosity is (again, very, very simply put) the mathematical calculation of how easily something will flow (or not flow). Viscosity does not "necessarily" have anything to do with how well something will lubricate (i.e. lower the friction coefficient between two or more objects). It is the chemical and molecular structure of a fluid, semi-solid or solid which determines how well it will lubricate. Water is less viscous than engine oil but will not lubricate as well. Molasses is more viscous than engine oil but also will not lubricate as well. Again, this is all extremely over simplified, and I am sure another forum member will jump in and provide you a much more technical explanation, but I hope you get the point. To save yourself many, many headaches and the torture of getting bogged down in a lot of scientific figures/jargon, I think the oil change plan you stated above is just perfect! Good luck solas. :beerchug: PS - Solas, I completely understood that you were only looking for valid information and not trying to single anyone out or trying to fight. I hope it was also abundantly clear in my post/writing that I also was not trying to single anyone out or trying to fight. :angel:

Hi solas. :D To answer the first part of your question: The Motorcraft oil which comes in your engine from the factory is a Semi-Synthetic oil. It is not a Full-Synthetic oil. Therefore, you can replace it (Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic) at 1,000 miles, 500 miles, or before break-in every 100 miles if you wish (intentional exaggeration), with the same Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic (or equivalent) oil. Ford just specifies, in our Owner Manuals, not to use "Friction Modifiers" in the engine before the break-in period is over. I would define that as meaning anything that has a lower friction coefficient than the Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic specs. I would include Full-Synthetic oil in that "Friction Modifier" category. Therefore, I would state that you should not put a Full-Synthetic Oil in your engine before it is broken in. It may be just my way of thinking, but it seems like common sense to me, and does not necessitate any studies (I am not trying to be a wise guy, just trying to keep it light). The next part here is just my personal opinion having to do with this entire subject (not your question in particular). Some of us seem to want to grossly over-think this entire oil change/interval question. Some of us want to change it sooner than recommended. Others of us want to extend our changes well past the recommendation. Both sides can come up with a plethora of studies and/or personal experience/anecdotes to back their version of what should be done. And as often seems to happen on the "Internet" some people on both sides seem to be very wrapped up in proving to everyone that they are the right side to be on (again, not directed at anyone here in particular, just a general statement). Then there are those who are in the middle that say "Why not follow the instructions of the people who build the vehicle"? It would certainly be the safe thing to do, at least while under warranty. Sure, we need to use some common sense, check the condition of the oil ourselves regularly and change it sooner if need be. It just seems to me that the semi-constant bickering (not you or anyone in particular, of course) back and forth is silly. The break down properties of modern automotive oils can be quantified and accurately predicted. The Automakers have already done the studies and made their recommendations, so why not take their advice. After all, they did manufacture the car. And follow the advice of the Manufacturer who built your car, not another car. The other Manufacturer is not going to honor your Warranty. And if someone does not want to take Fords advice, I say more power to you. If you wish to change your oil every 3,000 miles (or pick any other random number below 7,500), go ahead. If you want to change your oil every 15,000 miles (or pick any random number above 7,500 miles), go ahead. It is your car, so I respect your right to do as you like. Anyway, when all the debating is said and done, it states in our Owners Manual no "Friction Modifiers" until break-in is complete. So in my opinion, I would not use a Full Synthetic until the first recommended oil change (I follow the 6 month/7,500 mile recommendation). So in my case, 7,500 miles. If you plan on performing your first oil change before then, I would wait until at least 3,000 miles. Just to make it clear one more time: I am not trying to change anyone else's mind about what they do with their own cars, only assist those who are trying to "make heads or tails of the plethora" of conflicting information out there. Just my opinion folks, and I stated it without insulting anyone. So if you disagree with me, please do so without insulting me, my heritage or my dog. Good luck. :beerchug: PS - Just wanted to add that I am a realist and not as dumb as I look, so am not expecting a single word stated above to change the amount of time spent debating this subject. Nor should it change anything. It is a free country right? :yup:

Hi Purple07. :D No, it will not eliminate the TPMS warning. There is a separate "TPMS Reset Tool" you will need to purchase. You can purchase it for about $20 or so. But it will not eliminate the warning light permanently. It only resets the TPMS system when new wheels are mounted, new sensors added, etc. If I am reading your post correctly, you do not plan on buying the sensors for your new wheels? If that is correct, your TPMS warning light will constantly light up, even with the reset tool. My understanding is that there is no separate fuse to pull to eliminate the light. Your choice will be to buy the sensors, ignore the light, or place a piece of tape over it so you can't see it. You might be better off buying the sensors. Just my opinion. Good luck. :beerchug:

HI Suz. :D The bolt pattern on the Edge is 5x114.3, so either option will work. Also, since you have the 18" wheels now, your current tires will also fit the new wheels. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Myfudge. :D Check your Owners Manual for the instructions on how to release the "Brake Shift Interlock". There is an emergency release under a small plastic access cover, just above and to the right of the shifter handle. Look in the Index under "Brakes", then "shift interlock". In the '08 Manual, the instructions are on page 242. Here is the text from the Manual (there is also a helpful picture in the Manual): Brake-shift interlock This vehicle is equipped with a brake-shift interlock feature that prevents the gearshift lever from being moved from P (Park) when the ignition is in the RUN position unless brake pedal is depressed. If you cannot move the gearshift lever out of P (Park) with ignition in the RUN position and the brake pedal depressed: 1. Apply the parking brake, turn ignition key to LOCK, then remove the key. 2. Using a screwdriver (or similar tool), remove the protective cover to the interlock release access hole on the console. 3. Insert the screwdriver (or similar tool) into the access hole and press downward while pulling the gearshift lever out of the P (Park) position and into the N (Neutral) position. 4. Remove the tool and reinstall the protective cover. 5. Start the vehicle and release the parking brake. If it is necessary to use the above procedure to move the gearshift lever, it is possible that a fuse has blown or the vehicle’s brakelamps are not operating properly. Refer to Fuses and relays in the Roadside Emergencies chapter. Do not drive your vehicle until you verify that the brakelamps are working. This may help you get it out of Park. Unfortunately, I don't know if it will help with the larger problems of it not starting and the seeming shifter disconnect. You will need to check your brake-lamps and fuses. In addition, if you are still within the original "Bumper to Bumper Warranty" period (3 years/36,000 miles), you have free roadside assistance. Call the Ford Roadside Assistance" phone number listed on the cards you were supplied when you purchased your Edge, and in your Owners Manual. At the very least, it will be towed to your Ford Dealer at no charge to you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Myfudge. :D Check your Owners Manual for the instructions on how to release the "Brake Shift Interlock". There is an emergency release under a small plastic access cover, just above and to the right of the shifter handle. Look in the Index under "Brakes", then "shift interlock". In the '08 Manual, the instructions are on page 242. Here is the text from the Manual (there is also a helpful picture in the Manual): Brake-shift interlock This vehicle is equipped with a brake-shift interlock feature that prevents the gearshift lever from being moved from P (Park) when the ignition is in the RUN position unless brake pedal is depressed. If you cannot move the gearshift lever out of P (Park) with ignition in the RUN position and the brake pedal depressed: 1. Apply the parking brake, turn ignition key to LOCK, then remove the key. 2. Using a screwdriver (or similar tool), remove the protective cover to the interlock release access hole on the console. 3. Insert the screwdriver (or similar tool) into the access hole and press downward while pulling the gearshift lever out of the P (Park) position and into the N (Neutral) position. 4. Remove the tool and reinstall the protective cover. 5. Start the vehicle and release the parking brake. If it is necessary to use the above procedure to move the gearshift lever, it is possible that a fuse has blown or the vehicle’s brakelamps are not operating properly. Refer to Fuses and relays in the Roadside Emergencies chapter. Do not drive your vehicle until you verify that the brakelamps are working. This may help you get it out of Park. Unfortunately, I don't know if it will help with the larger problems of it not starting and the seeming shifter disconnect. You will need to check your brake-lamps and fuses. In addition, if you are still within the original "Bumper to Bumper Warranty" period (3 years/36,000 miles), you have free roadside assistance. Call the Ford Roadside Assistance" phone number listed on the cards you were supplied when you purchased your Edge, and in your Owners Manual. At the very least, it will be towed to your Ford Dealer at no charge to you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Myfudge. :D Check your Owners Manual for the instructions on how to release the "Brake Shift Interlock". There is an emergency release under a small plastic access cover, just above and to the right of the shifter handle. Look in the Index under "Brakes", then "shift interlock". In the '08 Manual, the instructions are on page 242. Here is the text from the Manual (there is also a helpful picture in the Manual): Brake-shift interlock This vehicle is equipped with a brake-shift interlock feature that prevents the gearshift lever from being moved from P (Park) when the ignition is in the RUN position unless brake pedal is depressed. If you cannot move the gearshift lever out of P (Park) with ignition in the RUN position and the brake pedal depressed: 1. Apply the parking brake, turn ignition key to LOCK, then remove the key. 2. Using a screwdriver (or similar tool), remove the protective cover to the interlock release access hole on the console. 3. Insert the screwdriver (or similar tool) into the access hole and press downward while pulling the gearshift lever out of the P (Park) position and into the N (Neutral) position. 4. Remove the tool and reinstall the protective cover. 5. Start the vehicle and release the parking brake. If it is necessary to use the above procedure to move the gearshift lever, it is possible that a fuse has blown or the vehicle’s brakelamps are not operating properly. Refer to Fuses and relays in the Roadside Emergencies chapter. Do not drive your vehicle until you verify that the brakelamps are working. This may help you get it out of Park. Unfortunately, I don't know if it will help with the larger problems of it not starting and the seeming shifter disconnect. You will need to check your brake-lamps and fuses. In addition, if you are still within the original "Bumper to Bumper Warranty" period (3 years/36,000 miles), you have free roadside assistance. Call the Ford Roadside Assistance" phone number listed on the cards you were supplied when you purchased your Edge, and in your Owners Manual. At the very least, it will be towed to your Ford Dealer at no charge to you. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Lex. :D You have what they call "paint etching" or "acid etching". It is caused by the acids in the bird poo. I would recommend you try a "Clay Bar System". Both Meguiar"s and Mother's (among others) make good ones. I prefer Meguiar's. Follow the directions and give it a try. If that does not work, you will probably need to use a more abrasive polishing compound. According to how deeply it has etched into the paint, you may not be able to get rid of it completely. Use multiple attempts, starting off rubbing lighter, and examining your progress through each attempt. Only use as much pressure as necessary to correct the problem area. If it is very deep into the clearcoat, you could wind up polishing right through down to the color coat. That would be a whole new and expensive problem. I'm sure you already know this, but the longer those types of contaminants remain on your paint, the more severe the damage, especially bird poo. If you are the picky type (which I am), you might want to carry a bottle of Meguiar's Quik Detailer (again, Mother's makes a good one also) and a towel (100% cotton or microfiber) in your trunk. This way you can remove these types of problems as soon as you see them. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi FINFAN. :D The tire pressure which is molded into the side of your tires (44PSI), is the MAXIMUM pressure that the tire is rated for and should never be approached in any normal use. You really should read your Owners Manual concerning proper tire maintenance. The Manufacturer Recommended Tire Pressure is listed on the sticker located on your drivers side door jamb (I believe the Edge is 35 PSI). That is the pressure you should be using. You can go 2-3 PSI higher than the recommended pressure if you wish, for better tire wear and MPG. However, much more than that and you will adversely affect tire wear, and the harsher ride will also increase wear and tear on your suspension components. Again, it is not beneficial and can be dangerous to inflate your tires to the Maximum pressure listed on your tires sidewall. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi fishmonger. :D In case you have not already tried it, I can make a recommendation for the wind noise that may help (or may not). When you open your front windows, also crack open the rear windows at least a few inches. By opening the rear windows 4 inches or so, it sometimes helps to equalize the air pressure differential created by the open front windows. You will notice that it will tend to lessen the wind roar and the buffeting created by the open front windows. Hope this helps. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi nolanative. :D I am sure you already know this, but just a word of caution: Do not just look for the body shop with the lowest estimate. Also remember to take a look at some of each shops current work sitting on the lot. Look for obvious differences in quality of work, how the paint matches etc.. Take all variables into consideration. No sense saving $100, but hating the way it looks every day for the next 3 years or more. Good luck. :beerchug:

Hi freemanbobj. :D As the information that carbonedge provided clearly states, you should not tow at all for the first 500 miles the vehicle is driven. Are you risking short/long term damage to your engine and transmission? Yes. Therefore, you should change your plans concerning a tow vehicle.. In addition to the information carbonedge provided, here is another copy and paste from your soon to be Owners Manual: BREAKING-IN YOUR VEHICLE Your vehicle does not need an extensive break-in. Try not to drive continuously at the same speed for the first 1,000 miles (1,600 km) of new vehicle operation. Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in. Do not add friction modifier compounds or special break-in oils during the first few thousand miles (kilometers) of operation, since these additives may prevent piston ring seating. See Engine oil in the Maintenance and Specifications chapter for more information on oil usage. I would advise against following through with your current plans. Whatever you decide to do, good luck. :beerchug:

Hi Suz. :D Congratulations and good luck with the new Edge. Concerning your tire question: You can have the "old tires" put on the new wheels, as long as the new wheels are the same diameter as the old wheels. In other words, if your factory wheels (the ones that will be on it tomorrow) are 18 inch wheels, your new wheels will need to be 18 inches. If your factory wheels are 19 inches, you will need to replace them with 19 inch wheels, and so on. Essentially, if you want to re-use your tires, let the shop/retailer/seller where you are buying know that. This way they can recommend the correct size replacement wheel. My thoughts are that your husband will know this. Something you may want to think about if you live in an area where you have harsh winters: If you plan on keeping the old wheels, buy new tires for the new wheels. Use the old wheels in the winter, and save your new wheels for the nicer weather. Just a thought. The only draw back to this is you would also need to buy new TPMS sensors and straps for the new wheels. Good luck. :beerchug: