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Nice writeup, good pointers

Welcome, Matt, congrats on the new ride, hope Ford hit it out of the park fer ya! First Ford? What color did you choose, did you get AWD/FWD, what engine ...?

That's what they want you to think! "Oh no, I have to pay someone else to do this!!!"

Pics here: http://www.knfilters.com/cold_air_intake/ford_edge.aspx If the frame seals to the hood and body on 3 sides, which this kit seems to do, you do isolate it from the heat of the engine bay. The issue then becomes how fast the metal body of the pipe heats up/retains heat from the engine bay, and how it affects/negates performance on a longer drive.

There is no mention of the window run part specifically being R&R'd in the factory manual, so I assume it isn't anything different from "standard" installations, and any body shop doing glasswork should know.

These places are operated by people who are truly the salt of the earth:

This is their home page: http://secure.revolutionparts.com/levittown-ford/ This is the subforum that Benny monitors & answers questions in. He's a stand-up guy. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10937-employee-pricing-on-all-parts-accessories/

Your "legend" status is growing by leaps & bounds! First, Moog, now Solar

2011 Edge Specs: Item Specification Generator — 3.5L Generator pulley ratio 2.66:1 Rating 70 amps @ 600 rpm (min) to 155 amps @ 2,500 rpm (max) Voltage regulator type Electronic internal with generator Generator — 3.7L Generator pulley ratio 2.66:1 Rating 89 amps @ 600 rpm (min) to 178 amps @ 2,500 rpm (max) Voltage regulator type Electronic internal with generator R&R is a piece of cake. Whatcha talkin' about, mac, big strappin' ex-swabbie like you??? Item Part Number Description 1 10346 Generator 2 — Generator electrical connector (part of 14B060) 3 — Generator B+ terminal (part of 14B060) 4 W711953 Generator B+ terminal nut 5 W709986 Generator bolt 6 W712609 Generator stud 7 W520414 Generator nut 8 8620 Front End Accessory Drive (FEAD) belt 9 10329 Radial arm adapter 10 — Radial arm adapter nut (part of 10329) 11 — Radial arm adapter cap (part of 10329) Removal and Installation NOTE: The radial arm adapter is a serviceable item. Do not replace the generator if the radial arm adapter is the only concern. Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 . Remove the cooling fan. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 . Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise and position the accessory drive belt aside. Position the generator B+ terminal protective cover aside, remove the nut and position the generator B+ terminal aside.To install, tighten to 17 Nm (150 lb-in). Disconnect the generator electrical connector.Detach the pin-type retainer and wiring harness. Remove the generator stud nut.To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). Remove the generator stud.To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in). Remove the RH fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Section 501-02 . Fully loosen the generator bolt and remove the generator.To install, tighten to 47 Nm (35 lb-ft). To install, reverse the removal procedure.

In the 2007 manual, these are the only specs listed: Generator Voltage 12 volt Rating 78/143 amp (max) @ 620-2500 engine rpm @ normal engine temperature

Many Ford dealers have online stores you can buy from. If you go to levittown ford's site (they are a sponsor on this forum), you can get discounted pricing on parts. Plus I believe they will ship overseas as needed.

Good luck, hoping to hear +ve news!

Wow, a Holden Commodore? Sweet! I bet with intake and headers you could've taken him LOL. Winter tires are def not the best for high speed driving due to the soft sidewall. BUT if it were slippery with snow and ice, you would've left him inhaling your dust!

Hmm. I'd have the cap on the degas/overflow bottle pressure tested as well. Maybe it needs to be replaced. Just because you don't see check engine lights, doesn't mean there are no codes set, just that the codes are not serious enough to set the CEL. What exactly did Ford do to fix the "engine slip" issue?

Welcome, Lisa. If you wanted to, in the future, post engine/drivetrain related questions here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/forum/88-ford-edge-35l-and-37l/ No point in duplicating in another location though. You should have codes pulled, any major auto chain store can do it for you free-of-charge. If you want to have the ability to do so yourself, you can buy an OBD2 scanner like from Actron or Innova. If you have a smartphone, you can get a Bluetooth or Wifi OBD2 adapter and diagnostic software fairly cheap also. It is possible that the fan is not getting the signal from the PCM to turn on. Also possible the AC High Pressure Switch is faulty. Any other problems with the Edge? Does it seem to be running OK otherwise?

Try cleaning up the old connector (a wire brush should do it) and putting some dielectric grease in it prior to reconnecting. Hopefully that will restore enough flow and keep the gremlins out. These part mixups have happened once or twice before, puddle lights IIRC, just keep pestering him till he gets it right for you. Could be a redesign, but he needs to clarify that to you.

There is a thread from not too long ago on doing exactly that. You will need to use elbow grease to make the remainder presentable. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/15070-un-chromed-limited-20-wheel/ http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13714-chrome-clad-covers-can-be-removed/

If that's true, understanding the limitations of the warranty is a real PITA.

Good to know about the warranty having a definite span. Usually if you get the work done under warranty, your warranty expires, and the issue crops up again, you have to pay out of pocket to fix it. Now if you had already paid out of pocket for the latch replacement, then the 2 yr/xxxxx mileage (unlimited now, I believe) warranty applies.

I don't believe that Ford's "fix" is a long-term fix. Neither is a replacement of the unit, but it should at least last longer than the "fixed" unit. As long as you have warranty, Ford should keep fixing the issue for you. This time demand a replacement instead.

Look up NAPAonline.com to see what batteries will fit the Edge. They list "normal" SLA as well as AGM & Optima batteries when available. With Optima, look for the right "size" battery by checking physical dimensions and correct placement of the +/- posts. On the '07, the terminals are reversed, and it's hard to find replacements that will work (cables are not long enough to flip). You can also look for Motorcraft Tough Max BXT65-850 batteries that have 850 CCAs (!). Interstate offers this: http://www.atbatt.com/interstate-mega-tron-plus-mtp-65-automotive-battery-850-cca.asp

Also found this interesting little blurb in the owner's manual: Electrical accessory installation To ensure proper operation of the BMS, any electrical devices that are added to the vehicle should not have their ground connection made directly at the negative battery post. A connection at the negative battery post can cause inaccurate measurements of the battery condition and potential incorrect system operation. Note: Electrical or electronic accessories added to the vehicle may adversely affect battery performance and durability and may also affect the performance of other electrical systems in the vehicle. A link to battery performance/testing: http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Fall2008/truck_batteries.htm Also: http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/no_start.html

Welcome to the forum, Leon, congrats to you both on the new acquisition, and regrets on the poor experience with the selling dealer. If it weren't for the warranty possibilities and the implied quality, CPO really wouldn't mean much, sadly. Hope they fixed/are fixing those issues for you though! The brake booster and door latch are 2 more items to keep on your radar. 2.0 Ecoboost or 3.5L engine? New wheels will look snazzy for sure!

Supposedly it's a dealer-only (IDS-only, actually) to reset the BMS. But there may be a way around it if you charge the battery and let the vehicle sit undisturbed for 8 hours (?) ... Don't know how that would play with a new battery. This is how the factory manual explains it: Battery Management System Load Shed Strategy NOTICE: When any vehicle module is being programmed, connect an external battery charger to make sure that the module programming is completed without the interruption due to the load shedding feature becoming active. The external battery charger must maintain a system voltage above 13 volts. This can require a charger setting higher than the lowest charge setting. The external battery charger negative connection must be made to an engine or vehicle chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. If the connection is to the negative battery terminal, load shedding cannot be prevented from being invoked and module programming may be corrupted. After charging has begun, start the engine to clear any load shed states and then turn the engine off and proceed with programming. NOTE: To maintain correct operation of the load shed, any electrical devices or equipment must be grounded to the chassis ground and not the negative battery terminal. A connection to the negative battery terminal can cause an inaccurate measurement of the battery state of charge and can cause incorrect load shed system operation. This vehicle is equipped with a load shed strategy. The Body Control Module (BCM) uses the battery current sensor to keep track of the battery state of charge. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor attached to the battery ground cable. On vehicles equipped with Intelligent Access (IA), the ignition state can also change. Engine Off Load Shed The BCM uses the battery current sensor to keep track of the battery state of charge. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor attached to the battery ground cable. When the engine is off, and the BCM determines the battery state of charge is below 40%, 10% of the charge has been drained or 45 minutes have elapsed, a load shed message is sent over the Controller Area Network (CAN). This message turns off the audio system to save the remaining battery charge. Under this condition, a message may be displayed on the IPC or center stack display to alert the driver that battery protection actions are active. When charging the vehicle battery by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal is necessary , such as when using a combination battery charger and battery tester/analyzer, like the GR 1 190 V3.0 Intelligent Diagnostic Charger, the BCM will not immediately update the battery state of charge. In this instance, after charging, you must CARRY OUT the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) Reset using the scan tool. This reset is needed for proper engine off load shedding and to prevent invoking of engine off load shedding earlier than normal. NOTE: If the reset is not carried out, when the battery is charged by connecting the charger to the negative battery terminal, it takes approximately 8 hours for the BCM to learn the new battery state of charge. During this 8 hour period, the vehicle must be undisturbed, with no doors opened or keyless entry button presses. If the vehicle is used before the BCM is allowed to learn the new battery state of charge, engine off load shedding can still occur and a message may be displayed. Vehicles without Intelligent Access (IA)Load shed only occurs when the engine is not running, and the ignition is in the ACC, RUN or delayed accessory position. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. If load shed occurs, the audio system turns off. If a fault occurs with the battery current sensor or circuit(s), the only load shed strategy is a 45 minute timer. After 45 minutes have elapsed, the audio system turns off. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. Vehicles with Intelligent Access (IA)Load shed only occurs when the engine is not running, and the ignition is in the ACC, RUN or delayed accessory mode. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. If the ignition is in RUN and load shed occurs, the audio system turns off and the ignition remains in RUN. If the ignition is in ACC and load shed occurs, the audio system mutes for 1 minute then the ignition mode changes to OFF. For example, if equipped, the memory seats move to the easy exit position and the dome light may illuminate. If a fault occurs with the battery current sensor or circuits, the only load shed strategy is a 45 minute timer. After 45 minutes have elapsed, the audio system turns off. To clear the load shed state, restart the engine. Generator Current Sensor The generator current sensor is attached to the generator B+ cable. The PCM supplies a 5-volt reference and ground to the generator current sensor. The generator current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor that supplies an analog feedback signal to the PCM. Battery Current Sensor The battery current sensor is attached to the negative battery cable. The BCM supplies a 5-volt reference and ground to the battery current sensor. The battery current sensor is a Hall-effect sensor that supplies a Pulse-Width Modulation (PWM) feedback signal to the BCM . As far as having the dealer do it, this is what a post on an F150 site has to say: Perfroming a BMS reset will reset the battery SOC to a default of 85%- regardless of its true state of charge and reset the SOC drain timers. This should get you out of load shed. The following is the procedure using the Diagnostic Engineering tool. BMS reset procedure with Ford "Diagnostic Engineering Tool": Go to Gen Diagnostics and select Module ID to 726 (BCM) Select Service 0X10 and extendedDiagnosticSession, and press "Send Message" button Select Service 0X31 Check "User Defined" box, and type in "201A" Press "Send Message" button For all future reference, do not connect the negative charge lead to the negative battery post. Connect it to another ground attachment point on the truck. That way, the re-charge will be measured by the BMS hall sensor (very near the negative battery post) and will correctly re-adjust the battery SOC

Cool to see MG back in action Could be the plates are shorting internally on Lullubelle's battery. There have been some duds lately even with the Tough Max series. Will definitely need a BMS reset after a swapout.