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What kind of extended warranty do you have, Deann? Ford's PremiumCare ESP should cover the door latches, not sure about lower levels of the ESP though. • Latch - Front/Rear Door • Switch Assembly - Door Ajar • Switch Assembly - Door Lock • Switch Assembly - Door Warning

I am glad that you are able to tackle these types of projects yourself, and in doing so, encourage others to DIY more often Do you have any pics of the PTU internals from your Edge?

Welcome, traditional friend , glad to have ya & your '07 here! The O2's are still narrowband on the 2007, they have been using widebands on the Ecoboost engines though for sure. It takes under a minute for these NA engines to go into closed loop (55F ambient, all 4 sensors returning data), from my experience. The EB engines (GTDI) go into closed loop almost immediately. No acceleration??? Real gas saver, huh?

Taking the service guys some quality coffee & donuts won't hurt your case either

Sounds like you guys are used to the SEVERE DUTY intervals for maintenance! That's a GOOD thing, if you plan on keeping the Edge a while

Congrats on the new ride, welcome! Love that color, fairly rare, and quite striking in person.

Good luck, Jsenske, I have no idea how much work it is to rebuild a modern trans (other than there are a LOT of electronics in there now), and I hope it goes perfect 4 you.

Did you put in new HID bulbs, Prinzll? Still on the fence about the LED/LMZ units? I second fit's suggestion to have you as our official on-call detailer for forum members

It would definitely get annoying to have these issues! As far as the TPMS, does it come on after 10 miles or so, after having let the car sit & cool down, then driven? That's what it does to me, and re-training has not worked. I HAVE heard that in some cases, if you air down all 4 tires to below 28 psi (let's say 25 psi), let it sit for a while like that, then air the tires back up to the recommended pressure (35 psi?), that might get the TPMS warning to go away. The procedure from a Ford Focus forum: 1) Make sure your tires are inflated to the recommended psi. Mine is 40psi. 2) Turn ignition to the on position. If you have a push button start, push the start button without pressing the brake pedal. 3) Push the hazard light button 6 times. The horn should honk and you should see "Train left front tire" in the LCD display between the tach and speedo. 4) Release air pressure in the front left tire until you hear the horn honk. The LCD display should now read "Train right front tire". 5) Release air pressure in the right front tire until you hear the horn honk. 6) Repeat for the the right rear tire, and then the left rear tire. 7) You should now see "Training Complete" in the LCD display. 8) Fill your tires back up to the recommended pressure.

That's what I'm talkin' about! Thx for "fixing"

Doesn't Lincoln like to put in user-controllable suspension settings? They do on other model lines like the MKS, maybe on the MKX as well? Could also be a perception thing because of improved noise dampening or seating material ...

Nice work, Happy! Looking forward to the continued adventuring & journaling

Hey fit, those pics are supertiny Surely 15-18 hrs of work deserves its' own Photobucket/Flickr album

I sure hope the problem is as diagnosed. Depending on how much experience the specialist has with this particular trans, you know? It is quite rare for the trans to suffer actual mechanical issues prior to the 150K mark, unless it has been in the "severe duty cycle" for part or most of its' life and the fluid has not been changed accordingly.

The good news is that it seems ALL the injectors were replaced, so you don't have to worry about one that wasn't replaced This should save the catalytic converters considerable grief and improve their longevity. You'd think there would be symptoms though, right, if the injectors are having a problem? Usually symptoms crop up before a CEL gets set. Like fuel smell, lower mpg, hesitation during power delivery, etc. I have seen TSBs on everything in the fuel system but the injectors. So yeah, IDK. What other problems have you experienced with the Edge? So far it does not seem like you got a lemon, but additional history would help shape opinion.

You can get one off EBay (DVD/CD format) fairly cheap.

I think they may be prompted to move their a**es along if they have to pay for a rental. Maybe.

That is total BS. The allowable difference is up to 3%. Even if we just take the wheel diameter into account, 3% of 17 inches (let's say) is 0.51 or 1/2". 1/2" is allowable. 3/32" is only 0.09". Do you get the feeling you are being ripped off? I certainly do. Go back to the dealer & argue the point. If they don't agree, get the case number and escalate to Ford via National Customer Service (phone number in owner's manual) or PM FordService (Tricia) on here with details. Need 5 posts to PM on this forum, you can make "test" posts here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11866-test/page-6

New battery = good. What exactly was the replacement? The relearn is for the PCM, not the BMS. The BMS is resettable only via the VCM/IDS (i.e., Ford software) from what I have heard.

Symptoms will be the engine will rev up with no forward movement/perceived lack of additional power demanded. For example, I am cruising along at 40 mph on flat road, 1,100 rpms or so, come up to a hill and press on the accelerator to maintain speed going uphill. Normally, the engine will rev up to 2,500 rpm and give me additional power to maintain speed. But if these symptoms occur, I will have to press further in, get the rpms up to 3,000-3,500 rpm to get the Edge to maintain speed. If I accelerate hard, the engine will rev happily, right up to 6,000 rpm without any resulting forward movement. I will have to back off the throttle a bit, let the gearshift (downshift) occur, then back into the throttle to get the result I want. I am primarily concerned about the engine oil due to its' potential effect on the cam phasers, and hence timing of the engine's ignition cycle. The PCV valve you need is the non-electrically heated one found here: MOTORCRAFT EV257 {#2X4E6A666AA, 2X4Z6A666AA} w/o Elec Heated PCV Motorcraft SP411 for the plugs work just fine. MOTORCRAFT SP411 {#AYFS22FM, AYFS22FMF4} Finewire Platinum Gap: .054

Weathertech does have their own kit for their products, if you want to try it out.

Battery is def a good starting point (retrain the Battery Management System afterwards for proper charging; dealer can do it). Also have them look into shifter replacement if the symptoms with SHIFT TO PARK continue. Have all the grounds checked/cleaned. If the battery is leaking, check any wiring nearby.

34 mpg? with AWD? Wow, I want THAT!!! The reason I suggested looking at the engine first/resetting the PCM was because I too thought the trans was a culprit for similar symptoms on my Edge. But that was not the case. There are/were no codes set either.

Trans flush is a good idea (or at least a 3x drain & fill). Next thing is to make sure you are running the appropriate weight motor oil (5W20 or 0W20, synblend or full synthetic). Motorcraft oil filter works fine (FL400s), no need for expensive aftermarket filters. Good fuel from a high turnover station helps too. Run Techron or BG 44K through the fuel tank. Next on my list would be spark plug & PCV valve change. Sensorwise, sure, the OSS/TSS sensors or the TR sensor could be acting up. Again, a fluid xchange might help the trans clear out any unwanted particles interfering with the sensor operation. Try unhooking the neg battery cable for 30 min, then reconnecting, and going through the PCM relearn process. There are TSBs for 5th gear starts from stop, for example, but nothing IIRC specifically for 3rd-4th shift & the like.

That's a pretty bad one, Nick, they should have escalated the issue with Ford if they didn't have a local solution handy.