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Should have added Lambo doors too so the driver could contort his way outta that side.

Hope all is well with the entire family Can't imagine being without the Edge for that long!

Enjoy the ride, and good luck!

That's the way it's working on mine. I too wish I had a continuous setting, but I guess Ford figured you don't need that unless you are prone to driving in reverse full-time

Some fixes you could try in posts #18-20. More than likely if it is indeed from under-dash area, some added insulation will fix it.

Be sure to add your Edge to Dan's customer images gallery (if he has one)

Still in warranty? The TSB should work for this issue.

On a highway, I usually see 1000 rpms at 40, 1250 at 50, 1500 at 60, and 1800 at 70 mph. The shift speeds from the service manual are as follows:

You never did say what the stash in the mini fridge was! Bike's doing good for a near 300K miler. Do you plan on tearing it down before the next run? And we need to get the kiddos to galavant in the great outdoors

Welcome & sorry to hear about the brake/battery problems. You are right, it COULD be the BCM (body control module) draining power from the battery. It could also be an alternator not charging the battery properly. But, chances are that it IS the battery, as it may be 3 or more years old already. If you bought it from a dealer, you may be able to get coverage for it. Sure nothing's left plugged in & on? You can check the battery voltage across the terminals with a voltmeter, or get an approximate idea with a voltage checker that can be plugged into an accessory outlet. You are looking for 12.5V or better with engine/car completely turned off (no key in ignition etc), and 13.5V or more (ideally in 14+ range) with engine running and all accessories off (no AC, no stereo, nothing in the power ports, etc). Videos on youtube will help if you have never used a VM before, or this will. Did you have to pay for the brake booster? What was wrong with it?

Have you tried switching ballast/bulb left-right and see if the problem goes with it?

If you feel you have reached a dead-end with your dealer, maybe Todd or Tricia of Ford Customer Service can help. There may be a possibility that PTU fluid replacement could keep it going for some time, but we don't know why it is leaking. Is it the PTU overheating, or is it transmission fluid leaking into the PTU then being vented? What color was the leak? Brownish or reddish? If clearly brown, it is likely PTU fluid, if red, transmission fluid.

Were they testing the TSS/OSS sensors or something else, do you know? PTU leak fixed? EDIT: Corrected a misstatement re: yr of Edge for OP.

Looks like the issue may run deeper than the visible portion. Normally, scouring with steel wool (#0000 variety) would be warranted, followed by primer & wheel paint. You could try Meguiar's 205 also (a fine/final stage polishing agent) instead of the steel wool to see if it helps.

Gotcha

What if, at night, you keep the ignition in ON and engine NOT running for a few minutes, then shift to Reverse (all without engine running)? Center console display would be on even in this state, right?

Good point, omar. Camera possibly only meant for very short-term usage. No problems in daytime though?

Whoa! Sorry to see this, guy! Hope no one was hurt?

Completely empathize with your line of reasoning http://repairpal.com gives pretty decent estimates, you could try that site. Hub & bearing from Ford would be about $110 per side after discounts (see the latest entries in the LevittownFordSuperCenter thread).

Dogs may not have loved the ride, but they sure loved the pajama party Link to the trackday ...

I would suspect a CV joint/driveshaft first, then the hub/bearing assembly. The situation may now involve both since it has been chronic. Best to have a dealership or trusted mechanic check it out. Guessing can get expensive.

I am curious, why would Techron damage the engine, if it is recommended/approved by car manufacturers like Hyundai & BMW for use? It might be a waste to run it more often than 3000 miles or every oil change, for sure. I would agree that the intake valves will not get cleaned, and for that you have to perform mechanical and/or chemical service.

Ok, then my favorite culprits would be loose pad(s) or caliper(s).

Now we know for sure! Thanks for the update

Welcome to the forum! Could be the pads are a little loose and need to be re-seated. Sounds more like a valve that is not opening/closing properly, but not sure. OEM or aftermarket parts?