WWWPerfA_ZN0W

@mrmikesdeuce will be fine without. does affect aerodynamics and mpg to a small extent.

wont physically fit. the heads and turbos basically are in the way. you would need the entire drivetrain/axles too, plus a custom length driveshaft most likely. now if you are really going to customize it, maybe do the 3.0 TT swap that SpecialK did in the gen 2 sport. i think it would be a better expenditure of time and money. still customization involved, not a dropin type project, but results worth it.

check the battery to make sure it is still healthy. voltage AND cold cranking amps. is this a factory or aftermarket subwoofer, same for amp. if aftermaket, check the grounds, that's what usually causes the thump. the problems with radio/battery drain have usually been due to a failing CD player, no grounding issues unless of course something is spilled into the console.

wellll ... the gap is not too far off from ford spec, but it will run a bit leaner than a ford plug would. but the motorcraft is spec'd at 0.031 based on the rockauto listing, so go ahead and use the ngk plugs if you want. general consensus is NGKs don't last as long as the motorcraft plugs tho the ruthenium tech should mitigate that. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,edge,2.7l+v6+turbocharged,3310415,ignition,spark+plug,7212 usually we look for 1 heat range colder in performance applications (when adding 100 whp to the edge for example). not sure what returns the ignitability will have. hope it pays off for you.

great to hear, best of luck, prayers and hugs for the little one.

drain is at the radiator https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yb7iiEEb6lynAz24D2PUJEpqqMtTYSWE/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VnfMbTpjvwMlvXwvFZdnlCQ05qXJCoug/view?usp=sharing 148 ft lb

sorry to hear. flexplate issue?

much could be said about older vehicles. never had batteries die in our pre2000 Taurus-es either. the demand on them is just so much more now. there are many reasons to buy newer vehicles, but DIYability and battery reliability are definitely not two of them lol.

if feasible, use a motorcraft branded replacement. rebuilt/remanned by other brands may not perform at the same level, however flawed OEM may be. also service brakes regularly, including slide pins, boots, and fluid.

yes maf related errors can trigger all kinds of warnings and codes as it feeds into the ABS and electronic stability algorithms.

idk if the pcm retrains itself whenever a new battery is installed on gen 2+ but if it thinks it is charging an old battery, this can happen. also pretty easy to check for parasitic draws. normally takes 40+ minutes after engine shutoff for all modules to go to sleep, but plug in additions can be responsible too.

2.0 and 2.7 transmissions are the same family but not the same build. xx35 series is 2.0 paired, xx55 series is 2.7 paired in gen 2 xx37 for 2.0, xx57 for 2.7 in gen 2.5

a) poor bulbs b ) poor headamp aim c) badly oxidized headlamp lens d) cheap LED bulbs (yes still out there in droves) that said, these headlamps do have a shutter mechanism to work the low and high beams off the same bulb. make sure the shutter is working properly. we have had some that failed entirely and fell in front of the bulb, obscuring ANY function.

extended idling with climate control on is known to prompt this ghost error. programming update fixes it, but leaving it alone won't hurt anything, per TSB https://drive.google.com/drive/u/4/folders/1VZ5-ZQ3yDQtlxIF8MGDwtT-2CVpaCZkn

welcome and congrats! 2 things: 1) check engine label on valve cover under appearance cover on pass side of engine. hope it is a VEP and not a Cleveland 420 sticker. 2) flexplate is the other major possible issue with these engines. if you start hearing rattles on the driver side of the engine, that is most likely what it is. ok, 3 things. 3) highly advise considering ford protect premiumcare or at least powertrain warranty. check pricing at: https://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com

best of luck, hope the insurance comes thru with a clean title.

an alternative look https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=PSY24W&_sacat=0

hope you don't live in a rust belt state. if you do, expect a helluva fight getting the old one out.

a ) check wiring is not pinched, assuming motorcraft sensors were installed? b ) check manual release valve and shift pin are correctly installed and in correct position c ) check the transmission cable and shift lever alignment - rare to be knocked out of place, but on the table as a final possibility

well done, enjoy!

i had mentioned a company referred to me for arbitration but they no longer seem to be handling such cases. maybe @1004ron can help?

so sorry to hear. hope you can get replacement value from the insurance company. sometimes you have to fight for it sometimes you don't. with the rising prices over the last couple of years, paying attention to this is very important. @bscott94

if the noise exists when turning the wheel at idle while parked, then most likely it is the strut mount. strut mounts should generally be replaced with struts - motorcraft/ford brand is by far the best choice from user reports. definitely look at the links and the rest of the suspension bushings as suggested above. control arms, tie rod ends, are all possible suspects if mounts are ruled out.