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ford always changes a few things as model years roll by, but nothing that can't be overcome. typically you have to use the sensors and flexplate that come with your 2013 engine instead of the more recent one. meaning if you get new sensors or flexplate, they should be a fit for your VIN number. also some mounting bits may differ. again, reuse the 2013 bits for that perfect fit. use motorcraft yellow coolant, or peak 10x/prestone 300k universals.

what are the symptoms when it fails to start on hot days, @Abdullah Alghamdi? does it crank normally or not even crank? do the lights on the dash come on normally? does the security light flash slowly or does it become faster when cranking? starters are known to fail during temperature extremes.

rear bank is where the heat gets trapped, in every type of engine in our vehicles. you might think the 2.7 is not as crammed as the 3.5 is, but it is, due to the extra parts and hosiery required. and air flow is not even across the cylinders. this was proven when direct meth injection systems (1 Nozzle per port) were developed for the 3.5 EB.

if you heard a squeaking/whistling/whooshing sound when stepping on the brakes, it is the booster. if not, you may have a faulty ABS module. the master cylinder hardly ever fails on this platform.

check out rockauto.com or any online ford dealer such as fordpartsgiant.com

generally the breakage is inside the turbo with the wastegate. i think 1 or two people have repaired it successfully but have no documentation to that effect. best bet is to replace the turbo.

the TCM is not even listed, i wonder what they would classify it as - adaptive or not, since you have to erase the tables separately from the PCM reset.

if it is awd, it is worth checking the RDU. not sure what all symptoms are going to crop up with the instant disconnect these things have.

what year edge? are you comparing cold start to warm/hot start? are you using keyed/keyless/or remote start when this happens? have you checked battery health - cold cranking amps in particular? are the cranking rpms the same regardless of which time you start the engine? ... more questions may arise once data is provided.

it should. fordtechmakuloco also has a video on this on YT

since you are noting temperature dependent symptoms, and already serviced trans fluid, you should check basic maintenance items such as air filter spark plugs pcv valve maf/map sensor(s) loose wiring wiring eaten away by pests where are you located?

have not heard of any such servicing on the edge mkx platform. i assume the bearings are sealed and will not benefit from it. you could replace the motors or the brushes maybe. or get a dropin replacement from a JY on car-part.com

try to get the pcm reprogrammed https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_tV0p90M85nN1S99BRujXA620dqIfQ6l/view?usp=sharing

who is telling you to replace these bushings and why? do you have an invoice or estimate to that effect? afaik, subframe bushings have never had to be replaced on any MY of Edge. and as Haz mentioned, if you really did, you would need the entire subframe OR source alternative parts with help from parts houses. no one has even developed aftermarket sub bushings, tho that is hardly a surprise given how eclectic an effort that would be.

some of the work is shown in these videos for GEN 1.5 for GEN 1

JD_Crankshaft Position _CKP_ Sensor 2007-2010 Edge MKX.pdf hopefully gives the solution

Inertia switch is a good idea, since you are getting cranking but no fuel.

vct has only 1 per valve cover, ti-vct has two. vct only controls intake, ti-vct controls both intake and exhaust. if the new motor is from an 08, then it should be 100% compatible. are you sure the new motor has no timing issues? there was a tsb on the phasers that state if it had timing related codes, that the phasers would need to be replaced. i guess tho the codes would show up when you started it after the install, but its puzzling why it wont even start.

Lionhart makes well reviewed tires in this size for hipo applications. and gets a thumbs up from a trusted source for tire testing.

this is a daily drive for @macbwt lol. assuming maintenance is uptodate, your Edge should do fine. most owners don't even change the fluids at Ford recommended intervals, and that means all bets are off. what does your normal drive look like, is it mostly city, mostly highway, or some of both? 150K looks different in an allhighway vehicle than an allcity vehicle. also, do you regularly scan the computers for codes?

the 3.5 in a 2010 is vct, not ti-vct. i am not sure how that affects the sync issue but the pcm seems to be expecting a different response from the sensors than it is getting. i don' t know enough to say that you can use the 2010 oem pcm with the ti-vct engine, a reflash with an as-built from a 2011+ might work, but i just don't know. you could ask a tuner to see if this new engine can be accommodated with the old pcm. changing the throttle body should rid the throttle actuator code, but it will not help with the syncing issue.

did you use a VCT 3.5 or a Ti-VCT 3.5? probably a silly question, but needed to ask. since it is cranking (150-250 rpm?), it is not a PATS issue, and the PCM/instrument cluster are not involved. comes down to checking all the electrical connections and health of battery. are you able to turn on/run all accessories, headlamps, etc? if cam and crank sensors are not synced, then it should set a code. what was the original problem that led to replacement of the engine? was it misfiring on the old setup?

need to retune the fans along with the 170 tstat to take advantage. otherwise you are just delaying the initial rise to operating temperature. the other proactive piece of course is to use a better fluid - such as Amsoil Severe Gear or Redline Lightweight Shockproof. as for difference the cooler makes

congrats! pics?

same company, different product lines. glad the new setup is doing well for ya.