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seems like you have a Ford encampment in progress! welcome! if you have a 2.0 in the 2016 SEL, and the label identifies it as a 420 Cleveland build, you may want to invest in a ford protect extended warranty.

to date, the most common failure has been the wastegate actuator/linkage. occasionally, the c clip will pop off, but not as common. common does not equal frequent. no need to update design if it does not even merit a tsb.

nice add. enjoy!

grinding is too late for the ptu. whining is not if taken care of. check fluid condition.

ford has a tsb on it. need to update the PCM programming. won't affect anything, as it is a ghost error, if you don't update. https://drive.google.com/file/d/18rPm9EX1weiU5A_zBZXc1jpJd3-vV2MX/view?usp=sharing

lightweight shockproof as it will work in both PTU and RDU. 75w140 works in the PTU 75W90 in the RDU. LWSP is unique in this regard, it fits both applications.

opening or closing fully should take under 10 seconds when operating at normal speed. 7 seconds is not unusual. https://www.youtube.com/c/MACTFordEdge/search?query=vista well we are here to support but i highly recommend getting all fluids refreshed asap. coolant, transmission, power steering, brake, and AWD. check battery health also with a digital battery tester (V and CCAs).

Welcome! All PTUs will fail eventually, yes, just how many miles you can boast on them before they do. Best for highway cruisers, from anecdotal evidence. Regular PTU (and RDU) fluid changes can stave off the eventuality. Figure on 7-800$ for parts and 4-5 hrs for labor if it needs replacement. there are some superhigh mileage gen 1 (2007-2010) vehicles that have not needed a new PTU AND are on original fluid. But don't expect that to be the case with a 10 year old vehicle with only 100K on the clock. expect to change ALL fluids asap after vehicle purchase. 2015+ PTUs get drain plugs, but servicing need doesn't really go away.

@Aliadmd what engine, what plugs, and how many miles. possibly incorrect plugs?

note the PTU only takes 12 oz on 2007-2014 MY Edge, not a quart like FTM says in his videos.

what would YOU describe the sound as? to me it sounded like rubbing or a stuttering wheel, which could be axle or PTU related. my bet is that the PTU/RDU fluids have not been maintenanced since new. i would check those first to assess their condition. the driveshaft is engaged in all gears except P and N, so it SHOULDN'T be that, but check for play in the carrier bearings anyway.

if battery type is the same, i.e., AGM to AGM, then less worries because charging characteristics should be very similar although charge voltages can vary a bit from mfr to mfr. when changing from SLA to AGM or vice versa, that can pose a bit of a challenge, as charging voltage specs can vary by as much as 0.5V. not a huge difference, but for non highway cruisers, can be a big deal. afaik, people who have changed from SLA to AGM in 2011+ vehicles have not had to worry about updating battery type, and the AGM batteries have performed well. could you squeeze more life out of it with proper charging voltage. of course! as to whether ford changes charging characteristics between SLA and AGM, that is at best an assumption on my part, but i know on non-BMS vehicles like our 2007 Edge and 2010 FSport, they are the same. I have not seen mention of BMS-controlled #s specifically between different battery types. but at least you have access to dark mode to preserve battery function if you need to. I, unfortunately, do not.

i would suggest browing through the YT channel above for help as needed, but here is a "maintenance" playlist https://www.youtube.com/c/MACTFordEdge/search?query=maintenance

Welcome, quite a stable you have now! plz post pics of the "collective" if/when you get a chance i would take the time to clean and grease the BAMR/vista roof tracks at least annually if not twice a year. should give it a LONG life.

yes, zerex g05 is fine to use with regular coolant drain/fills (preferred to an actual flush to preserve the seals/pump vanes). passenger side raises HIGH likelihood of water pump failure. check VERY carefully the portion of the block right above the alternator. it will literally stream from there when the seal is gone, but may be a slower leak ATM.

no video

yes on all counts. shops, brick/mortar or online, use STRICT compatibility tools, and even then, are quite often wrong. they just don't want to waste time or money with unsuccessful installations or returns of product.

Indeed!

i assume you saw omar302's post on the topic of bigger battery already?

check physical size info for this specific battery vs the one found to fit in the info you found. best way to do it.

oh no! hope it is not a water pump leak. noticeable leaks usually are from above the alternator area (passenger side of engine). if the leak is on drivers side, check the LOWER thermostat housing. these rot away on occasion. i would pressure test the system for at least 30 minutes. if it comes out from above the alternator, you are in for a water pump/timing job. you can use universal antifreezes like Peak 10X or Prestone 300K coolants, since you will be flushing the engine anyway. if you REALLY want to stay Motorcraft, go with the Yellow, as it is supposed to be backwards compatible all the way to GOLD (2007 MY).

now you can offer whole house duct cleaning services!

very nice

this time of year, it is common for pests (rodents) to make a home anywhere and everywhere in the engine bay and even extending to the cabin area. also, parking near / under trees for extended periods of time can do it. OR the cabin filter/screen is simply missing.

good info, nice writeup.