omar302

On earlier Gen 2 models there was a TSB for a rattling sound coming from underneath the vehicle. Maybe worth checking out.

Yes. I believe the larger diameter and wider tires are the main reason. Even if the suspension is bottoming out the tires should not rub. Sorry can't help with recommendations. But OEM (Motorcraft) is always a good option.

Strange you're having to replace it 3 times now. Glad your able to fix it easily though.

It was. The 8-speed on the 2.7 was an updated design from the previous 6-speed by adding a shift between the original 1st and 2nd (making a new 2nd) and adding another shift at the top (after the original 6th and becoming the 8th). So with the reprogramming of the 8-speed they cancelled the "new 2nd".

What color is it? If the door's ambient light is different and is red than it is normal. It is supposed to inform you that this door is open. Edit: just noticed this the 2011 sub forum. My comment applies to 2015+.

@Haz Can you please help with the manual procedures for changing the oil pan for the 2016 Edge Sport and 2016 MKX (2.7 EcoBoost)? I ordered a set of parts to fix the oil pan leak on my Edge which started to develop a small leak, but as the parts arrived we got a friend with an MKX that has a much more serious leak. So we'll fix his first then mine.

As stated and linked to by @1004ron above. There was a recall to replace a small plastic bushing that could fail and then the shift lever would disconnect from the transmission. The connecter circled below in your photo clearly shows that it was NOT done, or not done fully/properly.

If I'm not mistaken in my Edge the leak was from the Plastic piece circled below. It was like the outer piece enlarged and would not seal properly. Unfortunately it is part of the full heater hose. This part. Though you have to make sure this is the correct part number for your Edge. Mine is a GCC model with extra cooling so the hose is different. The part I linked above should be the for the standard North America model.

I wouldn't expect the tires would rub even with no shocks installed. Are running stock size wheels & tires?

One more point to consider, using this module means you will still use the original sync2 screen that is resistive. Meaning requires pressure to recognize touch commands, is slow and does not support multi touch (no pinch to zoom). Having a similar solution on a Toyota, the Android auto experience was underwhelming and I'd happily pay an an extra $200 to get a correct upgrade.

eBay? https://www.ebay.com/itm/167185480475

The service manual states if the gel is damaged to replace the sensor. I don't have experience, but I would probably be more inclined to replace the sensor and consider the extra $27-$37 as an upcharge as I wouldn't be sure I'll be able to install the gel correctly or the old gel removed fully from the sensor.

When you lean out, does the belt extends all the way out? If yes, then it is by design and there is no solution for it. This is for locking the belt when installing a child car seat. Also, when the seatbelt is retractable you would hear a clicking sound. Otherwise it would probably be a failure in the retractor.

Checking parts list for the front seats of a 2024 Edge shows the same TEDs as all Edges from 2015/2016+. Items number 29 & 30 in this link: https://www.tascaparts.com/v-2024-ford-edge--st--2-7l-v6-gas/body--front-seat-components

The original part, ending with "B" is for all models since 2015, how come the improved part is for 2018+?

I just went out and tried the same, I think it is improved, should have measured it to be 100% sure. I am 6' tall and now when open tailgate barely touches my head from the sides of the latch area, however, the latch itself still hits my head. Also, I could still raise it by hand another 1.5"-2". I tried to reboot the module using ForScan while the tailgate was fully open, but this made it think it closed, pressing any button to close the tailgate just caused the latch to make a sound like it's trying to unlock without any movement. Had to close it by hand for it to then function normally.

Just an idea, I didn't try it, open the liftgate fully by hand then disconnect the battery so the initializing process starts with a fully opened tailgate.

I don't have experience with these brands. But I'd suggest to try the right side (non electric) first. It is cheaper and easier to replace. As for the issue itself, my 2016 Edge also had it since as long as I remember. During warranty time I raised to the dealer, they claimed that they swapped the liftgate motor with from another Edge and it was the same, hence they deemed it as normal and couldn't fix it.

Wish you good luck. Maybe also study the possibility of enabling the rear camera to view 180 degrees like the front camera?

You can search eBay or Amazon for "key shell case" and include terms to match your key (3 or 4 button, remote start, etc) Examples: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265003175567 https://www.ebay.com/itm/314681861969

The OEM donut spare is actually smaller in diameter and will cause the AWD system to disconnect to save it from damage

Until your pads/brakes heat up, you can't brake and then don't have anything left to pick.

Never got to complete my project as I switched to a 2016 Edge Sport around the same time. For no. 1 & 3 as far as I know, both are in the PCM. Not possible with ForScan or wiring. I couldn't find anything online on how to change them. Another function that was added in newer models, 2018 or 2019 (not exactly sure) when in sport mode and you pull a paddle (entering manual mode) is the ability to pull/hold a paddle for a short time to exit manual shifting mode and revert to sport mode. For no. 3, also in the PCM and as you found out, it can be done with some tuners, however, not with Livernoise as I have it and couldn't enable it for me.

One of the views with the round tachometer, there is a temperature gauge display. See sample image.

The 2019+ Edge refresh got a different PTU than previous models.