enigma-2

Not certain, but I believe you'll also need to install decoders to prevent errors in the CANbus, and flickering. (Couple of other problems as well like bulbs turning off when starting, etc.)

Mine's doing the same thing (to a lesser extent, passenger ice cold, driver cool). Scheduled to have shop replace it in a couple of weeks. Quoted me 2 hours + parts (guessing ~$50 for Motorcraft part.) But you can try a HVAC module reset. It runs the actuators through their range to find the end points. It sometimes fixes problem if Actuator lost end points. Procedure: Car on but not running. HVAC off. Press OFF and DEFROST buttons for 5 seconds. Release and press the climate control ON button within 2 seconds. HVAC display goes into test mode and generates results when done. (88 88 means all ok.) This procedure works on mine, but your model may have a different button combination. We covered this several years ago in this forum. Do a search if this procedure didn't work.

This would indicate a failing Electric Power Assisted Steering torque sensor, or a binding lower steering shaft U-joint. At highway speeds, you make very small steering adjustments. If the torque sensor develops a dead zone due to wear in its center position, it stops reading those small movements and the computer fails to provide steering assist. This would make the steering wheel feel sticky. When you move the steering wheel back and forth, you move out 9f the densird center position, allowing the computer to read the signals. .

This is a highly documented pattern failure on 2019+ Ford AWD. It's probably a failing Active Torque Coupling Unit on the Rear Differential. Starting with the 2919 edges, Ford changed the AWD disconnect system that frequently suffers from internal clutch pack chatter or mechanical failure. When you take off or turn right the vehicle weight transfers and forces the rear differential to send torque to the left rear wheel while slipping the inner right wheel, which triggers a distinct clunking, knocking, or thumping sound from that rear area. No recalls on the coupler, but a recall on the rdu. 21S02 (Rear Drive Unit Lubricant Level.) Applies to certain Edges regarding a low lubricant fill level in the rear drive unit. If the fluid was below the minimum level, the axle was supposed to be replaced free of charge. You should check if your specific VIN was ever flagged for this, as running low on fluid from the factory causes the exact premature failure and clunking you are experiencing. There's TSB 21-2389 for Rear Actuator Noise. Check for recalls by getting your VIN and go to the NHTSA Recall Lookup Tool. https://share.google/NTvPbYbGnMtqpp5ND (Good reason to have an extended warranty.)

Can't beat OEM ....

Just seen your post, otherwise I would have spoken up sooner. This may be a mistake. Taken from page 192 of a 2022 owners manual: WARNING: Vehicle modifications involving braking system, aftermarket roof racks, suspension, steering system, tire construction and wheel and tire size may change the handling characteristics of your vehicle and may adversely affect the performance of the electronic stability control system. In addition, installing any stereo loudspeakers may interfere with and adversely affect the electronic stability control system. Install any aftermarket stereo loudspeaker as far as possible from the front center console, the tunnel, and the front seats in order to minimize the risk of interfering with the electronic stability control sensors. Reducing the effectiveness of the electronic stability control system could lead to an increased risk of loss of vehicle control, vehicle rollover, personal injury and death.

Since your display is operating (the GPS/compass tracks your movement) confirms that the APIM is working. This indicates that the touch layer (the digitizer) which glued to the front of the LCD has probably failed. But, before you go any further, try a software reboot (to rule out a frozen system cache.) 1. Turn your vehicle on to accessory mode. 2. Press and hold the Power Button (center of the volume knob) and the Seek Right Button (>>|) at the exact same time. 3. Hold for 15 seconds until the screen goes completely black. 4. Release the buttons and wait for the MyFord Touch system to reboot. .

Yup, same here. Every once in awhile my MKX will wait until I park it in the garage and then it puts the drivers seat all the forward and lowers the backrest all the way down onto the back seat. I open the door and it sits there smiling at me. We have a good laugh about the tricks its learned and then I have to put the seat back where I can enter and start the car. Once it did it while I was driving. We had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that, and its never done it since. Ah, what fun modern cars can be. Can't wait until home robots become common. 😁

Pulled this from another site. The message is a Master Warning Alert indicating a critical safety or mechanical issue. The red upside-down triangle with an exclamation point is a general warning flag. your car may have been warning you to "Pull Over Safely" (or that it has entered "Limp Mode".) May be able to pull it up as a stored code.

Sorry I didn't get back sooner, haven't been on the site for awhile. This is the easiest and fastest way to clean the a/c evaporator housing. https://a.co/d/09ftGtMJ

Hundreds of videos on YouTube. Here's an example for pulling a dent (I've never tried it, I've always sucked at bodywork.)

Might be easier to find if you were to run a 1/4" hose down through a a/c grill, and pour about a pint of water down into the base of the a/c evaporator case. This would simulate normal behavior on steroids and you could watch where the condensate drains out.

On Auto Surgeon, they wrote that on a 2020 Ford Edge ST, with a 2.7L engine, this exact problem specifically occurs around 2,000 RPM under acceleration. They wrote that this is a well-documented symptom. It is typically caused by exhaust system resonance or a loose factory heat shield. "The 2.7L EcoBoost engine and its specific exhaust configuration are highly prone to vibrating at this precise RPM frequency, transferring vibrations into components underneath the vehicle or near the firewall." .

Besides a low (or high) pressure fuel pump, a stuck-open purge valve is a common point of failure for Ford EcoBoost engines. (Did you install a Motorcraft valve?) .

Not the cheapest, this is the one I have. 4.8 stars. https://a.co/d/06rqVQyB

The ac drain location on the 2022 Edge is located underneath the vehicle, hidden on the center tunnel wall just behind the engine and exhaust heat shield, near the driver's side footwell area. Ford claims that the reason the hid it, was to protect it from road debris. It sits over high the transmission tunnel hump, where the exhaust downpipe drops from the engine, and is completely covered by the silvery fiberglass exhaust heat shield. To reach it, lift the vehicle, locate the transmission tunnel, and gently pull back or unfasten the corner of the heat shield fabric right next to the driver-side floorboard area. The drain presents as a small white plastic nipple protruding slightly from the firewall. After you unblock the clog, I recommend using an evap cleaner to kill the mold that may still be lingering in the case. https://a.co/d/08lGMqQ3 .

If you suspect charcoal dust is causing this (and its a very real problem) just replacing the purge valve will not fix the problem that initially caused it. If the canister is still shedding carbon dust or particles, the canister is bad and must be replaced. After replacing the canister, remove the rubber lines between the canister and the engine's purge valve and blow out all the lines to remove any trapped charcoal dust. Then install a new purge valve. The cause is usually caused by overfilling when gassing up. When you get gas, stop when the pump shuts off and never try to "top off" the tank.

An old mechanic's trick to "trick" the BCM into thinking the door is closed, is to trip the lock mechanism on the side of the door (where the puller stub goes in and trips the latch when the door is closing) with a screwdriver. When you do this, you will not be able to close the door, until you trip it open again. But it allows you to keep the door open while the car goes to sleep.

I don't believe they will fit. Ford performed a major mid-cycle facelift for the 2011 model year, transitioning from "Generation 1", which ran from 2007 through 2010. To "Generation 1.5", 2011 through 2014. Because of this generational split, individual parts can (and will) vary widely. What's known not to fit. Rear Shock Absorbers. This would be a main point of incompatibility. The lower mounting bolt on the 2011 Ford Edge is much thicker than the bolt used on the 2008 model. The mounting hardware and sleeve dimensions are completely different, meaning the 2011 shock eyelet will not bolt safely or securely to a 2008 lower control arm. Those areas that are known to be compatible. The rear coil springs share the same physical dimensions and will fit the 2007–2014 models. (But keep in mind that the spring rates vary depending on whether the donor car had a standard suspension or the 20-inch wheel "Sport" suspension package.) Also, some upper and lower trailing links share the same geometric dimensions, but because bushing sleeves and bolt diameters changed during the 2011 refresh, you would run into a problem here. It would be best if you obtained 2008 year-specific rear end parts. You might get the 2011 parts to fit, and you may not (at least its unlikely to be plug and play. (I wouldn't attempt it unless I was absolutely certain.

Post reminded me of a song from Little Anthony and the Imperials. "Shimmy, Shimmy, Koko Bop." (Before your time, don't worry about it, mind wondering.) (Again.) (grunt)

I believe that the Motorcraft Super Duty BRSD pads are semi-metallic pads. They are intended for Edges & MKXs with the factory tow pkg. (More fade resistant and better stopping power under heavier loads.) It's what i have on my 2009 MKX; and I'm satisfied. Have the Pirelli Scorpion's as well. Very satisfied. Years ago ran Michelins. Good tires for the first 20k or so, then got through the great soft rubber in the tread and into the rubber that gives it the extra long milage and couldn't stand the roughness and loudness. You're going to find the Pirelli's are really good tires and stay consistent throughout their life. A recommendation if I may. Have the break fluid changed when you so the brake job. People don't realize that brake fluid gets scalding hot in use, and it's hygroscopic, meaning it naturally acts like a sponge and absorbs moisture from the surrounding air. As moisture accumulates in the brake fluid, and gets heated over and over, it starts to break down. This drastically lowers the fluid's boiling point and cause the brake fluid to boil under hard use. Boiling turns the liquid into gas bubbles and because gas compresses easily, your brakes will begin to feel soft. This is another important factor which can (significantly) increase your stopping distance.

Could be a thousand things. When you turn the car to "on", do you hear the low pressure fuel pump in the gas tank?

Think they discontinued the appearance cover in 2021. I believe that the covers from 2019 & 2020 will fit and may be possible to pick one up off ebay or junk yard. (Maybe someone can verify the years)

Have you checked the cars CV joints? Worn inner CV joints can cause a shudder during acceleration. If the shudder disappears when you take your foot off the gas pedal and let the car coast at 40 mph, check the joints. The second thing I'd check is the AWD driveshaft center support bearing. Your 2008 AWD has a two-section driveshaft running to the rear wheels. The two sections connect through a bearing at the center of the two. At 160k miles, its possible that the rubber dampener around the center bearing has worn which causes the shaft to wobble at the specific speed you mentioned. You can check this by shaking the driveshafts near the middle bearing. There should be no play. Any play at all is wear. Anotheg possibly as reported in the 150 forum that they traced this to the torque converter clutch. You can test this by accelerating to ~40 mph and when experiencing the shake near a shift point, lightly tap the brake pedal with your left foot while keeping your right foot on the gas. If the shaking stops instantly, the torque converter clutch is probably slipping. .