enigma-2

Change brake fluid, engine air filter, cabin air filter, spare tire pressure, pwr steering fluid, coolant, replace air in tires with summer air, check blinker fluid, etc.

Did you ever get this fixed?

I may have found the fix in the F150 forum, where they have seen simular problems. The cause of the problem is most likely a failing Transmission Range Sensor. When your Edge reaches operating temperature, heat expansion causes an electrical open circuit or glitch inside the sensor. The TRS completely loses track of what gear the car is in, which triggers all three of your symptoms simultaneously. The symptoms may feel like they are separate issues, but they are all tied to this particular sensor. The PCM uses the signal from the TRS to know which gear is selected. Because the PCM is getting blank or corrupted data from the TRS, it cannot output a gear position (P, R, N, D, S) to the digital instrument cluster. Also, when the TRS signal drops out while you're driving, the PCM gets confused and drops hydraulic pressure which causes the transmission to slip out of gear. If the TRS starts working again, it generates a signal the the PCM and the PCM will attempt to re-engage the transmission. This will cause lurching). The reason the rear camera activates is when the TRS is corrupted, its outputting a false reverse gear signal, which causes the BCM to believe that the transmission is in reverse; and turn on the backup camera display. The reason the dealer didn't find any codes is probably due to, when the 6F50/6F55 TRS faults, is usually doesn't set a "permanent" code, such as a P0705 or similar. The code it dies set, is reset when you cycle the key. By the time you drive it to the dealer and they scan it, the system doesn't retain a code. Since the dealer cannot reproduce it, you need to alert them to this possibility and tell them that you suspect an intermittent internal "Transmission Range Sensor / Leadframe" fault that occurs only at operating temperature. The technician will need to drive the car with a factory scan tool hooked up, specifically monitoring the "TR_D" (Transmission Range Desired) and "TR_A" (Transmission Range Actual) PIDs. They'll watch for the signal to drop or turn to eith Fault or Unknown when the vehicle gets hot. (Make certain when you take it in you have a full tank of gas as it may have to be driven many miles before the test begins. Or before the module faults.) You can also record a video the next time this happens. Showing this video to the service manager bypasses the "cannot reproduce" problem. .

Did you start at the OBD-II port and follow the harness back?

My guess is the whirring sound you are hearing is probably coming from the car's ABS pump. When your car sits for a while, the hydraulic pressure inside the ABS system slowly bleeds down. When you get in and press the brake pedal, (even if the car is not runnung), this triggers the ABS control module to wake up, run a self-test and prime the system. The 5-second whirring you hear is the internal electric pump motor building hydraulic pressure. Taking your foot off the pedal cuts the electrical circuit, stopping the pump.

I've read that some owners have fixed the torque converter shudder problem by adding an anti-shudder fluid conditioner (such as Lubegard Shudder Fixx) at a fluid change. Also need to change your fluid at 25k mime intervals. .

I don't know what year you have, but on the 2009 Edge, front wheel drive Edges use 11.65-inch front rotors and AWD Edges use the 12.60-inch front rotors. (The 12.6" rotors will NOT fit on the front wheel only version.) Rear Rotors are 11.89 inch whether its AWD or FWD. If you're looking to upgrade braking (and not get ridiculous about it) consider switching to semi-metallic pads (such as NAPA Ultra Premium Semi-Metallic or Hawk Performance.) These will definitely upgrade braking performance by providing max cold bite, superior friction at high temperatures, no fade, but have several bad cons, such as creating large amounts of dark metallic dust, they wear down your brake rotors faster and sometimes cause queaking when braking. A better choice would be putting on carbon-infused ceramic pads; such as the is the PowerStop Z36 Truck & Tow or PowerStop Z23 Evolution series. Almost as good stopping power, but less dust and no squeeking. Lastly, but still an upgrade, consider a premium ceramic pad (such as Duralast Gold Ceramic or Akebono ProACT.) The main advantage is they are better at braking than OEM, much less duty (and its light colored) and they are quiet. But they will fade more when towing or hard braking. (I'm running the Motorcraft premium ceramic pads on my 2009 Lincoln MKX, and find them to be excellent.) .

Have figured it out yet?

No way. They will only provide the camera to an authorized Ford dealer to install. (Besides, it won't cost you anything; let them do it.) As its intermittent, it may not qualify under 25S89. (Has to be dead of distorted - all the time.) As it's intermittent, I'd suspect green crusties at the camera connector.

First thing I'd suspect is your spare tire blew. (As its pressured at 55 psi, it would deliver a good bang. Usually the value core is what fails.) But, seeing how its happened 3x .... If this happened only on the highway, the most common cause is a tire kicked up a large rock that slammed into the underside of the wheel well. They can make a deafening bang. A car just idling, sounds like its the amp that either shorted or a loose connection at the amp. (Rear right hand side is the woofer and amp.)

Look for the OBD-II port. (Where you plug in a scan tool.) This port is physically attached right to the bottom of the Gateway Module assembly. If you follow your OBD-II port up behind the plastic trim, your hand will go straight to the GWM. To access the module you need to remove the lower plastic trim panel located underneath the steering wheel. (It's held in place by a few plastic clips and 7mm or 10mm screws.) Once the panel is removed, look up to the right of the steering shaft. You will see a rectangular plastic module box with multiple prominent wiring harnesses plugged into it. This is the exact location where you will perform the "T-harness" pass-through installation.

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Seems like a lot of unnecessary cost and work for something that won't make any difference in stopping power.

Why hold back? Go Bosozoku. Never been done on an Edge.

Thats pretty much true of all parts. Get OEM whenever possible. Buy once, cry once.

Have OEM rotors and pads, never had a single problem, work great. Never understood why go aftermarket, some setups fade less, but I never had the need for heavy braking. Don't stop any faster (than OEM), in a panic stop the brakes lock the wheels and stopping distance is reliant on tire width (amount of tire in contact with the ground.) In a average stop, it comes down to pad material and Ford is excellent quality. Slotted rotors are slightly worst in daily driving (less rotor material for friction), but do fade less on a race track. (I don't need to make 5 or more hard stops in a row.) Now, as far as whats the best oil .... (g)

There's a couple of work-arounds, but the best way is to update the database. Quick review of the process: first ensure that your USB drive has at least 8 GB of space. Make sure your USB is empty and formatted to FAT32 (for SYNC versions before SYNC 3) or exFAT (for SYNC 3 and later). (If uncertain, reformate the drive.) Updates take around 1/2 hour and car has to be running during this time, so if you want the Ford garage to do it, figure 1/2 hour of labor. One of the work-arounds is to move your music to a USB drive or SD card. Then plug it into the media hub inside the center console. Make certain you music is formatted to either MP3 or M4A and properly tagged with metadata. (You can use a free PC tool like Mp3tag to add artist names and embed album cover images directly into the files. I did this years ago and it's a pita.) You can also burn files as a MP3 CD rather than a standard Audio CD. The Ford Edge CD player reads MP3 discs and will display the file tags on the screen.

Its not really possible to answer your question with the limited information posted. However, you may be better helped by talking with Crutchfield at 1-800-555-7088. Have your car info and new radio model ready. Most likely it requires a custom harness and these guys can whip one up for you.

Typically vinyl wrap will last 3‐— 5 years. By using premium vinyl, it can stretch to 5—7 years under "ideal" conditions. Cheaper, thicker vinyl usually lasts only 1—2 years before it starts shrinking and cracking. "Premium brands like 3M or Avery Dennison will typically last 5—7 years. They are highly pliable, thin, and conform excellently to complex curves." Remember that when this stuff gets old, you have to remove it. (and it's an absolute pain to remove.)

How did this turn out? If the problem still exists, did you check the BMS? The BMS is located on the negative battery terminal. If its failing the PCM can miscalculate the charging needs. Try unplugging the BMS sensor temporarily. If the intermittent charging stops and defaults to a steady ~13.5V to 13.8V, your alternator is physically capable of charging, and the issue is likely a bad BMS sensor.

Ever get this fixed? One other thing that can cause thus is a tripped or locked Field Effect Transistor circuit inside the Body Control Module. One way to test this is turn the headlight switch on, disconnect the main wire plug from the back of the broken headlight assembly and check to see if there's power to the lighs power pin. (On the passenger side, the power wire is blue with green stripe.) If there's no voltage to the power pin the BCM has locked out the headlight. An easy fix for this is to use FORScan. Go to the service/configuration tab in FORScan and select BCM Module Reset (or possibly Front Light Control Module reset). Then clear the DTC error codes and this should reset the BCM.

As you've changed the EVAP Valve, another thing that can cause the engine stalling at idle (unless you press the gas pedal) is the low-pressure fuel pump or sensor. If the sensor reads fuel pressure incorrectly or the fuel pump in the gas tank is getting weak and can't deliver enough fuel to the high-pressure pump on the engine idle, the engine starts to die. Giving it gas forces the system to command more fuel pressure, keeping it alive temporarily. Should throw a P0087 or P0191. An outside chance could be related to a dirty throttle body. The throttle body internal motor gets dirty and fails to maintain the correct idle gap for airflow when your foot is off the pedal, choking out the engine. Look for a P2111 or P2112 codes. .

Something similar happen to me. One common cause is a stuck internal valve inside the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. (This is a known, common issue for this generation of Ford Edges.) Believed to be caused by a chemical reaction between old brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the HCU. It causes fluid to turn into a gel and prevents the internal valves from closing properly. (When a valve sticks open, hydraulic pressure bypasses the calipers and dumps right back into the system, causing the pedal to sink completely to the floor without losing any external fluid.) Immediate fix is to replace brake fluid (should do this every 3-5 years anyway, brake fluid goes bad like any other fluid.) Then bleed the HCU.

good. Something similar happen to me. One common cause is a stuck internal valve inside the ABS Hydraulic Control Unit. (This is a known, common issue for this generation of Ford Edges.) Believed to be caused by a chemical reaction between old brake fluid and the zinc plating inside the HCU. It causes fluid to turn into a gel and prevents the internal valves from closing properly. (When a valve sticks open, hydraulic pressure bypasses the calipers and dumps right back into the system, causing the pedal to sink completely to the floor without losing any external fluid.) Immediate fix is to replace brake fluid (should do this every 3-5 years anyway, brake fluid goes bad like any other fluid.) Then bleedc the HCU.