enigma-2

Ran across this video and remembered your post. May or May not help. (BTW, this can happen to any car. Its mostly environmental and caused when the rubber lines its crosslinking and reverts to its original form.) Caused by high values of UV, ozone and high humidity. You can prevent this by periodically wiping all of your weatherstripping with 303. (It's what I use, and there are other products, but this is the best.)

Sometimes when you replace the vehicle battery the temporary loss of power can cause various control modules (such as the ones you mentioned) to corrupt their nonvolatile memory. There's a couple of things you can try, first (as you mentioned) drive around at a steady speed of 25–30 mph for several minutes. This will usually allow the ABS module to relearn its calibration. Then with the car still running and in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to the left and right (lock-to-lock). This should reset the steering angle sensor. A second method is to disconnect one of the battery cables and then trun on the headlights. (They won't come on, but the load should discharge the internal capacitors located in the integrated modules. Leave the battery disconnected for 10 minutes. When reconnecting the battery lead, don't allow the cable to "touch and break" (that is throw sparks.) This causes a voltage "hash" to flow through the car's modules and screw up the modules memories. Always just press the battery cable connector down tight to the battery post (not necessarily connected) and then keep it in contact with the post while you work it on and tighten. Making sparks during a connection sends voltage spikes through the modules through the "keep alive power" feeds. Bad for car, great in bed. 😗🎶

Had to look this one up. Here's what I found. The icon usually appears when playing media from a connected device such as a USB drive or a Bluetooth-paired phone. The system cycles through three distinct states. Oval (Off) Plays your current playlist or album normally and stops after the last track. Horizontal U-turn (Repeat All) Continuously loops the entire current folder, album, or playlist. Oval with a "1" (Repeat One) Continuously loops only the specific song currently playing.

Two faults are normally responsible. The first is the contacts on the switch are corroded and the switch will need to be replaced. Water gets in door interior through window weatherstripping and drips onto switch (located on back of latch. Typ around $300 at dealer but owner doable. (Seen a video where repair was to remove interior door interior, disconnect wires to switch and then remove & replace switch without removing larch, etc. Difficult, but doable, as way up inside and must work by feel. Second is break in harness. Usually (but not always) occurs at point where most bending occurs. Inside to rubber boot in the door/frame intersection. .

There's a new safety recall for the following Goodyear tires. NHTSA Recall ID Number : 26T011 Synopsis : Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company (Goodyear) is recalling certain Eagle F1 Supersport tires, sizes 305/30ZR21 and 255/35ZR20. The tire tread may separate. Tread separation increases the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the tires, free of charge, or provide a refund. Owner notification letters are expected to be mailed May 15, 2026. Owners may contact Goodyear's customer service at 800-321-2136.

Changed the cabin air filter and engine air filter today. Old ones had been in for almost exactly 2 years. (Thats 16 years, in car years..... ) Took around 4 minutes for the cabin air filter, and around 10 minutes for the engine air filter. Had a hell of a time getting the air box clips back on. Became a test of willpower. Almost had the back clip on and it decided to pop off and fall under the car where I couldn't reach it easily. Finally retrieved it with a grabber and we had a long talk about why it shouldn't do that using boot camp language. It still resisted until I got a pair of large plyers and humiliated it. ... snort. Finished up by printing labels with the date and sticking on filter covers (cause I can't remember shit about when I do maintenance.) [ filter changed. ] [ 04/16/2026. ]

If you can lift the rear hatch open manually and it stays open, the struts are good. If it's really heavy, or doesn't stay open after you lift it full open position, the struts are bad. (The struts are responsible to provide the main lifting force. If they fail, the motor will sense the overload and stop any attempt to life the hatch.) If after you initiate an open procedure, you hear it unlock and hear the motor try, it may be the body control module may be out if sync. (If may actually forget how to open after unlocking.) To fix this possibility, disconnect the negative vehicle battery cable, and step on the break pedal for 30 seconds (drains the residual currents from the capacitors in the modules.) Leave the battery disconnected for another 10 minutes. The body control module will reset. If after the latch unlocks but you hear no motor, its possible the fuse has blown. Think it's #7 in the fuse panel located in your engine compartment. (2013 Edge). If ok, then suspect the liftgate motor itself; or a wiring problem. The most likely location of a wiring break is the yellow wire that located in the rubber boot that connects the body to the hatch.

Could always contact the link I posted above. Not specifically listed, but I'd imagine they'd charge around $350 to rebuild the module. I'd imagine that the module is fairly complicated and you'd need to source the parts. If they had to change the EPROM, probably could reprogram it to your car. Could always call them and see what they would charge.

No. Not if you're using the same parts. The software is stored on a chip that retains its programming when deenergized. If you were to change out the circuit board, then yes. The replacement circuit board would contain the programming from the old car. .

Yes, the modules are VIN-specific and require programming.

Perhaps here: Truck - Cars ABS Module Repair Service - 5-Star Repairs https://share.google/QD0UzCAQaOQUe7nRr

I was just reading on a different forum that the 2012 ABS module has been discontinued by Ford. This site sells used parts: https://share.google/Rh2QyDB3zZrPIfQ70

You are correct, the F150 is still 150 (the F250 & 350 are 164 ft.lbs.). I think (but only a guess) that its because the F150 uses a 6-bolt lug pattern and the Edge uses a 5-bolt. The higher torque would be necessary to proved the equivalent holding power.

Sounds simular to torque steer. Check lower control arm bushings (most common cause of pulling on acceleration), worn ball joints (wanders under load, feels loose when cornering), or worn tie rod ends (drifting during acceleration or deceleration.) Reason you probably feel it at shift points is because as the transmission changes gears, a different level of torque is applied to the wheels and the change in force (when the lower control arm bushings are bad), causes the wheel geometry to shift forward or backward, pulling the car left or right. Get the car up on a lift and check the rear bushings of the front lower control arms.

Yup, that'dll fix it. Once or twice a year clean your headlights with dawn soap & water, then dry and spray with this, and they'll never hase over. (More often if you're in the desert southwest. Its the sun's UV that causes the plastic to get cloudy.) https://a.co/d/0ddE2Gie .

As no one else responded, I'll add my 2½ cents. I pulled this off a related website: Common Transmission Issues ● Flexplate Cracks & Torque Converter Failure: Ford issued a Customer Satisfaction Program (22N12) for certain 2015–2018 models with the 2.0L EcoBoost engine and 6F35 transmission. This program covers repairs for cracked flexplates, transmission fluid pumps, and torque converters, which can cause rattling noises and eventual failure. ● Shifter Cable Bushing Recall: A significant recall (22S43) affected 2015–2018 Edges because the shifter cable bushing could degrade, potentially causing the vehicle to be in a different gear than the one indicated by the shifter. ● Torque Converter Weld Studs: A smaller recall affected some 2017–2018 models with 2.0L gas engines where inadequate welds on torque converter studs could lead to a complete loss of drive. ● Cooler Bypass Valve Clogging: Some mechanics identify a clogged cooler bypass valve as a major cause of transmission overheating and failure in the 2018 model year. Reported Symptoms Owners have frequently reported the following symptoms before experiencing major failures: ● Rough Shifting: Hesitation, jerking, or "bucking" particularly at low speeds. ● Slipping: Momentary increases in RPMs without a corresponding increase in speed, often noticed around 60 mph. ●Unusual Noises: Clunking or rattling sounds coming from the transmission area. Maintenance Recommendations While the owner's manual may suggest long intervals, many technicians and experienced owners recommend more frequent service to extend the life of the 2018 Edge's transmission: ● Fluid Changes: Aim for transmission fluid inspections and changes every 30,000 to 60,000 miles. ● Address Shudders Early: If you notice a "shudder" or "jerk" at low speeds, a software calibration update or a fluid flush may resolve it before permanent damage occurs. ● Verify Recalls: Check your VIN on the Ford Support Recall Page to see if your specific vehicle is covered by the flexplate or shifter bushing programs.

Sometimes metal debris in the transmission fluid can interfere with the magnetic sensor's readings. Changing the fluid would be my first choice. The OSS sensor itself is located inside the transmission; attached to thevm valve body. Accessing it requires draining the transmission fluid, removing the transmission pan and valve body assembly.

Ever fix this? I'd check the throttle body to see if it needs to be cleaned for carbon buildup. When it faults, the car goes into limp state. Could also be an electrical failure in the ETB itself (needs replacing.) Another possibility is a Problem with the throttle position sensor or the accelerator pedal position sensor. A fault with either of these can cause the computer to receive an incorrect throttle position location which can cause an intermittent power loss.

This is late, but for future reference, Pin 1 is the 12V battery power wire, it's violet (or violet with a white stripe). Pin 2 is the ground common ground for the coil. It's black with violet stripe (or black with a green/white stripe). Pin 3 is the PCM Trigger wire. It's color varies by cylinder. For the cylinders on the "far right", Cylinder 3 is either a yellow with a orange stripe, or violet with orange stripe. Cylinder 6 is either a violet with brown stripe, or green with a white stripe.

Ever fix this? There's a weak possibility that it can also be caused by a weak battery (low voltage), corroded connector (or bad wiring) or a bad wheel bearing.

Yup. The glaze causes the light to scatter, reducing the light pattern in the distance.

At this mileage, the most likely culprits are worn wheel bearings or RDU. If bearings, the noise changes pitch with speed and may get louder or quieter when you steer left or right. If RDU, there's a l growling or grinding that's most noticeable under light acceleration or during low-speed turns.

Believe I'm going to disagree with you on this. A private seller is NOT responsible for repairs once the sale is complete. Private party sales are typically considered "as-is," meaning the buyer accepts the vehicle's current condition and assumes all future repair costs. The only exception to this is intentional fraud or misrepresentation. Such as rolling back the odometer, hiding a salvage title, or explicitly stating in writing that a specific part was replaced when it was not. In order to win this in court, you would need to prove that the seller knew about the issue and intentionally deceived you. This can be he said, she said, in which case, you lose. Can always ask the seller to provide you with a written warranty (I.E. "will cover all necessary repairs to the engine or transmission for 30 days after sale," or the like.)

I had this happen to me as well. Too it to the dealer and he also diagnosed the problem as a faulty brake booster (which they replaced under extended warranty.) I finally got it fixed by taking the car in and had them do a full brake job, and a brake fluid change (which also necessitated resetting the ASB HCU valve.) This fixed it. (Actually, by getting a brake job, I got the brake "certified" technician, not just the jack of all trades technician. He knew exactly what was wrong. (Something about using the computer to cycle the valve.) Anyway, that fixed it and have had hard, high brakes ever since. The ABS HCU bypass valve is a known failure point that can stick open and show up as a soft brake pedal or even goes all the way to the floor. (This can get real exciting, really fast.) If a dump valve is stuck open, brake fluid is continuously bypassed into the low pressure accumulator, rather than being sent to the calipers. This causes the brake pedal to drop to the floor. .

Don't know the difference between the two. Probably the length. Anyway, there's a H2GZ-14A411-B listed on Ebay (UK) for £29.71. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/135285761035