enigma-2

I had a set of Michelin's years ago that had soft, rubbery tread. Ran smooth and quiet, for the first 20k. Then the "soft" rubber wore through to the hard rubber underneath. Ride became hard and noisy. Lot of road noise. I took them back to Sam's where I bought them, and they told me that it was normal as the hard rubber was needed to extend the milage to its rated 40k (or whatever it was). Always been leary about tires with soft rubber ever since.

I feel your pain, friend. But it's not just limited to the 2012's. My old 98 Sable had a door switch that had this problem (just the front passenger door, none of the others). I was able to keep it clear by using WD40, but it appears that it doesn't work for the Edge. Did you see the recent post by one of the members here on how to clean the switch contacts w/o opening the door panel? It referenced a couple of YouTube videos which showed how to flip the lock mechanism out of the way and gain access to the door switch contact. Repair takes only a minute or so. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10869-door-ajar-warning-on-at-all-times/page-10?do=findComment&comment=139141

I would suspect that the dealer may have switched tires. Did you happen to notice what brand, series tires were on the cars? Tire manufacturers prescan all their tires and pick out the best of the best for the auto makers (better in balance means less weights needed and lower costs to Ford). The tires are then perfectly balanced and you will never notice an off balance condition in a new car. Dealers can, and DO, switch parts from car to car. BTW, you are looking at the Sport, have you considered the MKX? a fully equipped Sport actually runs around what you could get a MKX for.

I have an 09 MKX AWD. I'm happy with my Bridgestone Dueler Ecopia's. At the Tirerack.Com website, you can review consumers remarks and scores for every tire they sell. The Bridgestone's have all its ratings in the green or dark green.The Yokohama's are also rated high, not quite as high as the Bridgestone's, but are selling at 1/2 the price.

Spec D black halo projector headlamps with LED DRL'S $300 Chrome door handle covers $55-$65 Putco chrome exterior mirror covers $60 RI stainless steel fender wheel trim $100 CCI chrome wheel covers $70/ea Chrome really pops on black

Why did you do that? Doesnt that defeat the purpose of fog lamps? I thought that fog lamps were only supposed to illuminate the immediate sides of the road (to find the centerline and edge of the payment). Putting too much light nearby will make seeing more difficult (causes the pupils to close down making distant vision poorer) and just throw a lot of glare onto on-coming drivers.

Stick it on Craigs list for $25.

Your right, didn't look at the year. Thanks for keeping me straight. Did a Google and came up zip. Probably have to wait until the market catches up.

My 09 MKX with AWD and factory tow pkg and 20" wheels averages between 17 & 18 ( mix of city/hwy). Tank capacity is 20.7 gal (78.8 L).

Perhaps you could get a power seat mechanism from a salvage lot and have the local dealer install it. Better to spend the money where it will pay you back with every mile.

I used to travel to Quebec on business back in the 70-80's. One winter was going to lunch with the plant's GM, roads were pure ice, I was doing about 80 and four guys in a Buick came flying by us like we were standing still. About 5 k up the road there they were, about 15m off the side of the road with three of them "push", "push", push". We continued on, still doing about 80 and here they come. Zing, flew by us like we were standing still. I still laugh about this. Great people in Quebec, friendly and sincere. Loved traveling to the Provence.

I used to, but cars have gotten more complicated. And besides, Ford dealers do oil change with semi-synthetic, 5 qts., filter, rotate tires, lube chassis and mechanical inspection. All for under $30. All this while I sit in a conformable waiting area, drinking Starbucks made to order, popcorn if I want it and watching TV. They finish with a free car wash (Lincoln owner's perk). Knock your socks off.

I think that this is a normal design tolerance found in most any car; from the least expensive to the most expensive. It's probably accountable to being able to squeeze everything into the space available. From a marketing perspective, the layout of the instrument cluster has a greater first impression than a the steering wheel being off by an inch or so. Ever notice that the peddles are not standardized either?

"Switches, non-electrical mechanical" are specifically covered.

I see they exclude "fixed, non-moving body parts". Would that be what they were referring to?

Take them back. I had a set of tires installed & had problems with them. They tried balancing them two more times and finally concluded that they were molded wrong (out of round). Finally had them put on a different brand (better quality), they gave me full credit for the old ones (of course), and new ones worked fine. I agree with macbwt, est. with moving to the Bridgestone's.

Ebay. Full set of aluminum pedals run $26.

Had my 09 MKX AWD PTU pumped and filled with new, two weeks ago at Ford garage. They charged me $60.

My 09 mkx was originally equipped with this setup from the factory. The original purchasers wanted navigation and the dealer swapped in a nav unit (drops the CD/DVD player to a single disk version). Don't see why you just couldn't pick up a nav unit off Ebay and swap it. Does your vehicle have OEM GPS? If it were me, I would stop by the local dealer's parts dept and ask then what would be needed. (Probably have to get the service dept involved in programming anyway.)

My wife is a pain in the wallet. Wonder if I could just lock her in the car? LOL

I've read other people's texts about having leg pain in the Edge. Some said they could find relief by raising the seat all the way up and tilting the back a little. Another said he found it comfortable to use a small pillow in the small of his back. One gentleman had shims under the back of his seat to raise the back higher. But I believe that most have no problems in getting comfortable. I love my 09 MKX seats, my wife doesn't. Complains that she slides around on the leather too much. You tried expanding the lumbar out all the way? I've traveled extensively on business and rented numerous cars. Some I've absolutely hated the seats in (Honda, Toyota, too small for American butts). Don't like Corvettes and Mustangs either. With the Edge seat being fully adjustable (at least I'm assuming it is), you should be able to find a comfortable position. As you have tried every possible adjustment position, perhaps it's the seat itself. If so, try putting some sort of topper on the seat bottom, like a blanket folded to give some height in the rear portion of the seat bottom. Might be just the shape of the seat that's throwing you off. I Googled "automotive seat cushion wedge" and got multiple hit. Apparently it's a common complaint. Perhaps one with memory foam?

Any possibility that it's a (slightly) loose jack in the spare tire well? Had a sound simular to that once in my old car. Drove me nuts, sound travels, sounded like it was coming from under rear seat.

Does voice command to eject work? (I don't know what commands are and are not available on the 11, just thinking out loud).

One other thought after I posted the procedures above, it could be a stuck steering system. (I remember having this happen to me as well). The fix is simple, try turning the steering wheel while turning the key. Hopefully that's all it is and it will turn afterwords. :-)

Ignition Switch—Mechanical The following conditions can cause difficulty in operating the ignition switch and lock cylinder: Damaged or incorrectly cut ignition key Binding ignition lock cylinder Binding ignition switch Binding or damaged steering column lock module Carry out the following test to determine if the ignition key/lock cylinder, ignition switch and the steering column lock module are operating correctly. 1. Inspect the ignition key for any burrs, damage or incorrect cut. Have a new ignition key made as necessary. If the key is OK, continue with Step 2. 2. Remove the ignition lock cylinder. Refer to Section 501-14 . 3. Rotate the ignition lock cylinder through all of the switch positions. ◘ If the lock cylinder operates correctly, install the lock cylinder and continue with Step 4. ◘ If the lock cylinder does not operate correctly, install a new ignition lock cylinder. 4. Remove the ignition switch. Refer to Ignition Switch in this section. 5. Rotate the ignition lock cylinder through all of the switch positions. ◘ If the lock cylinder operates correctly, install a new ignition switch. ◘ If the lock cylinder does not operate correctly, install a new steering column lock module. Refer to Steering Column Lock Module in this section. Ignition Lock Cylinder — Non Functional Removal NOTE: Individual lock cylinders are repaired by discarding the inoperative cylinder and rebuilding a new lock cylinder using the appropriate lock repair package. The lock repair package includes a detailed instruction sheet to build the new lock to match the key cut pattern for the vehicle, thus allowing for single point replacement without needing to replace or reprogram other locks or keys. NOTE: If a new keys are required, the new Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) keys must be programmed. For additional information, refer to Integrated Keyhead Transmitter (IKT) Key Programming Using Diagnostic Equipment in Section 419-01B . 1. Remove the PATS transceiver. For additional information, refer to Section 419-01B . 2. Drill a 10 mm (0.393 in) hole 9.3 mm (0.366 in) deep, centered in the keyslot. 3. Using a suitable tool (such as a pin punch), press the ignition lock cylinder retention pin until it pushes through the remains of the lock. 4. Remove the ignition lock cylinder. 5. Thoroughly clean all drill shavings from the ignition lock cylinder housing and inspect it for damage. Installation 1. Rotate the ignition switch and the new ignition lock cylinder so the that the d-slot in the ignition lock cylinder lines up with the d-slot in the lock cylinder housing (ignition switch and lock cylinder must be in the ACC position). 2. Insert the ignition lock cylinder into the lock cylinder housing until the retention pin engages into the lock cylinder housing. 3. Verify proper installation by rotating the key through all positions and pulling back out on the key to make sure the lock cylinder does not pull out. 4. Install the PATS transceiver. For additional information, refer to Section 419-01B .