enigma-2

My 09 MKX brakes squeek when backing slowly out of the garage in morning if the car has sat overnight. It's normal, the brakes wear on the leading edge, traveling in the forward direction 99.9999% of the time. This allows crud, dust, etc) to build up on the trailing edge. When backing up the crud is the cause of the sound. If yor getting it going forward after backing, my guess is, the dust, rust, etc. has moved to the front leading edge when backing and will stop as soon as it's burned off. Easy way to eliminate it is to do an aggressive stop while backing up, essentially burning it off. Should be good for a few days until it builds up again. Just for fun, when my wife is with me (going to the store or whatever), I'll back out of the garage reallllly slow and squeek all the way down the driveway. Drives her nut, like fingernails on a blackboard. Heh, heh, heh.

Does the sound vary with speed? FWD or AWD? Does the click or pop occur for only a few seconds (just when acceleration starts) or does it continue for a period of time? Is it poss that this is a body panel making a clicking sound as the center of gravity changes, or more related to drive train?

Running Bridgestone's Dueler's, about 50% worn. Never forget your Edge is a heavy vehicle and will take much longer to stop. My 09 MKX did only fair last winter, the anti-lock breaks were a Godsend. On packed snow or ice, I drove very slow, much more carefully than when I drove my wife's car. On snow, I had no real problems, probably do to having a AWD. Can't beat snow tires, (rubber stays flexible in cold bettet, more aggressive tread, etc.), the roads are cleared in a few hours, so most of the time I'm driving on a cleared road surface (or nearly clear), so I really didn't feel I needed snow tires.

Had the same problem, small areas of road rash. I masked off the area and sprayed the scrape with spray chrome. (Forget the brand, bought at lowes). Not a perfect fix, but helped a little.

Wow, 5,000 miles a month. You do some serious driving!

Had a slight rattle couple of weeks ago, traced it to a rear seat belt just barely touching the plastic panel.

Yea, I test drove my wife as well. LOL

Was interested in reading more about the DM-V2 tires, approx outer 50% of the tire is a softer, quieter, more "rubbery" type of rubber (quieter and better traction). When this wears off, the tire will get noisy and not have as good traction. That's when I trade, hate noisy tires. Ergo, you only are getting approx. 55% of its rated tread, which could be as little as say, 25% of its rated milage (picked a number out of thin air, exactly how many miles are in first 55% of tread depth? Remember that the outer 55% is a softer rubber that will wear faster.) Probably would still be usable tires, just ride harder and a lot more noisy. I've suspected other tires of doing this. Had a set of Michelin's that got real noisy and hard riding when 50% worn. Dealer told me the soft wear layer had worn off. The DM-V2 must be the V1 replacment, hence the reason why the V1's are marked down $40 less.

FWIW, link takes me to TireBuyer.Com website.

For snow only, I would go with Bridgestone's Blizzak DM-V1. For all season, Bridgestone's Dueler H/L 422 Ecopiate (what I'm currently running). http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireResultsServlet?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2010&autoModel=Edge+Limited&autoModClar=FWD&width=245%2F&ratio=50&diameter=20&sortCode=59938&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=S&minLoadRating=S&tab=ALL&zipCode=null#0

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Simple fix, get the Flood quote (in writing) & demand local dealer match. They will 100% of the time. I sometimes negotiate service work (certain jobs, not common work). Local service manager agreed four times so far. Everything's negotiable.

More likely, the supplier is owned by GM. :~}

Hey Mac, ever finish the comparison video? Curious.

FWIW, I seen a Ford instruction to downgrade the towing specs when using 22" tires. If you had a Class III hitch, you are supposed to use the rating of a Class I hitch.

Been talked about at length here in these forums. Basically the Ford unit is too low and allows the BAMR to contact the rails. Here's a quick link to start http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/14435-installed-factorythule-roof-rack-on-a-vista-bamr/?do=findComment&comment=136254

Be interested in seeing what someone with this problem pull a light and give it a careful examination. Defective bond between outer and inner shell, weak bulb gasket, crack, etc.

Note what I wrote about some connectors being wired differently causing the fans to run continously, even when off. Need to reverse wires.

I used bread crumbs this summer when I was running around garage sales in a confusing subdivision. Helped alot, I could easily see which streets I had already been down and which ones I hadn't. Don't know how breadcrumbs works on other versions of navigation, but on mine they stay on until I turn them off. Have you tried turning off the breadcrumb feature (should clear the screen)? NAV》Map Prefs》and tap off breadcrumbs.

Nice one!

Ah poop, used the premium price by mistake. Doing this on my phone. Thanks for catching this, makes a big difference. The V6 is less expensive to operate. Big difference.

Just out of curiosity, I checked local gas prices to see how they relate to the additional mph. Local Speedway has Regular at $2.26 and Premium at $2.66. 12,000 miles/18 mpg = 666.67 gal. 666.67 gal @ $2.26/gal = $1,506.67. 12,000 miles/21 mpg = 571.43 gal. 571.43 gal @ $2.66/gal = $1520.00. So at 12,000 miles driven annually, there's essentially no difference between the two ($13.33/year). However at 15,000 miles/year, the numbers spread: 15,000/18 mpg = 833.33 gal. 833.33 gal @ $2.26/gal = $2216.67. 15,000/21 mpg = 714.29 gal. 714.29 gal @ $2.66/gal = $1900.00. At 15,000 miles/year the 2.0 would save $2216.67-1900.00 = $316.67. So for those who drive less than the normal miles (myself for example, I work at home) in a year, t really doesn't make any difference. But if you drive the average or more each year, the 2.0 will save money. (I don't know what additional costs are associated with each engine, but that would need to be factored in to consider any overall cost savings). Personally, I prefer a V6 over a 4, but that's because I like a smoother engine.

"Been running LEDs in the headlights for quite some time now. No problems so far." Nice big heatsink at the base keeping them cool. Did you leave the headlamp assembly cover off to disappate the heat? Been curious, I've read that going to LED's in a refelector designed for Halagen bulbs will result in a lot of glare for teh on-coming cars. Do you get people calling for low beams very often?

Did you check the side bumpers for wear and alignment? The latch to see if it was latching closed tightly enough? If it still seems to be coming from the interior of the liftgate, you will need to pull the cover. Here's the procedure from the service manual: Remove the liftgate lower trim panel. 1. Remove the 4 liftgate lower trim panel screws. 2. Pull outward on the liftgate lower trim panel to release the liftgate lower trim panel retainers. 3. Remove the liftgate upper trim panel. 4. To install, reverse the removal procedure. NOTE: The back of the liftgate trim panel is shown indicating the location of the liftgate trim panel retainers.

Just looked on tirerack.Com. looks like cheapest is $117 ea. for 18/8.