enigma-2

In the 2013, the easy way to disarm the alarm, is to buckle the seatbelt BEFORE starting the engine. Other than that, the procedure above is correct. I would suggest that you exit the vehicle prior to tunning the ignition switch to the on position. Then follow the procedure after the warning indicator goes off. BTW, the sensor is tied to weight on the seat, not a seatbelt interconnect. (Probably done this way to prevent the belt cheater to work. Believe they switched to this method after they tied the airbags to the system). If you need it, you can download a copy of your owners manual here: http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/catalog/owner_guides/13edgom4e.pdf

Not to mention all of those cute little hitch cover plates you can use to cover the receiver opening .......... :-)

Which fuse position did you ended up using?

Yea sadly, my 09 has the factory 1-1/4" receiver. (All they offered back them). I don't currently own a utility trailer (or boat any longer) so it's not that big a deal. Still, 2" would have been nicer. Car only has a 3500 lb towing limit anyway, so 1-1/4" is good as 2" anyway.

Perhaps the former owner had an existing subscription to Ford for this. (I admit I know little to nothing about MFT, but I believe there is a subscription service that has gas prices and other stuff. Somewhere I read, probably this forum, that it was $99/year - or whatever). Anyway, maybe you still are running on a subscription service. Anyone have any experience with this? Can you chime in on what's actually covered?

Try running a diagnostic on the radio/nav unit. Hold radio button 3 & 6 for 3 seconds until the speaker walk test begins. Before the speaker walk test is complete, press the "End Test" selection on the screen. Screen will change to the bezel diagnostics screen, begin by tapping the On Demand Self Test to see if there's any faults in the system. The tap the GPS test to see if that circuit is operating properly. While in the test, pressing the "SV Status" selection provides additional information, if present.

There's always the counter argument, why do want to change the hitch? I've got the class II factory hitch as well, and I don't like it either. But, if I just absolutely need a 2" receiver for some reason, I'll just use a 1-1/4" x 2" adapter. Plug it in when you need it and into the lower storage compartment when you don't. http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Hitch-Extension-Adapter-Anti-Tilt/dp/B00PDENHWQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423900624&sr=1-2&keywords=1-1%2F4+x+2+adapter+hitch

Black is ground, yellow/green strip is the + feed running from the smart junction box, hot at all times but passes through the battery saver circuit, the gray/violet strip is the feed when you open the door. If you use the gr/vi wire, remember it is hot at all times but will shut off after a perod of time (1/2 I believe, but not certain). When I set up my Cobra pos, I used a mirror tap connector. (Just plugs into the back of the mirror). Be careful with these Chinese-made harnesses. Make certain you ohm them out as the one I bought had reversed wiring. (Don't depend on white being ground). If you were to use a mirror tap, blue/orange strip is the accessory feed (car must be in start or run to energize), pin #1, and black is ground, pin #10. The mirror connector has 10 pins, pin #1 is top, passengers side, pin #10 is bottom, driver side. Check the wire color-coding to be certain. This is the one I just bought for my new Escort Max2. http://www.amazon.com/MirrorTap-Series-Radar-Detector-Inline/dp/B006074LT8

Could double up on fuse F41, which is fed from the Accesory Delay Relay.

Here's the procedure for the 2010 Edge (I don't have 2013, but assume it's similar). ****************** * Remove the rear cargo load area. * Remove the foam blocks from the spare tire well. NOTE: Inspect the safety belt lower anchor bolt cover for damage. If the safety belt lower anchor bolt cover does not remain in place, install a new cover. * Remove the safety belt lower anchor bolt cover and remove the safety belt lower anchor bolt. (To install, tighten to 40 lb-ft). * If equipped, remove the cargo net hook. (To install, tighten to 27 lb-in). * Remove the LH quarter trim panel. NOTE: Make sure the pushpin retainers are removed with the quarter trim panel. (Best I can tell from the diagram, there are two push pins located along the bottom center plus one at the end of the panel closest to the rear seat - at the door sill). * Disconnect the electrical connectors, if equipped. * To install, reverse the removal procedure. *************************** I highly doubt that they would have run circuit wires back there if the speakers & amp were not installed. According to the wiring diagrams, power and signal is embedded a in harness that runs along the RH side at the floor, into the RH side of the instrument panel. If, by some chance the wires are there, look for a brown / red stripe for power which comes from the smart junction box, violet / green stripe for the SUB +, green / white stripe for the SUB - (both these will be shielded) & a violet / red stripe for the sub enable. These last three come from the audio control module (radio).

Was the check engine lit? If the PCM is faulty, it will throw a code and light the CE light. Here's what the service manual says about engine shutdown: Computer Controlled Shutdown The PCM controls the PCM power relay when the ignition is turned to the ON or START position, by grounding the PCM relay control (PCMRC) circuit. After the ignition is turned to the OFF, ACC or LOCK position, the PCM stays powered up until the correct engine shutdown occurs. The ignition switch position run (ISP-R) and the injector power monitor (INJPWRM) circuits provide the ignition state input to the PCM. Based on the ISP-R and INJPWRM signals the PCM determines when to power down the PCM power relay. I would suppose that it could be a lot of things, but it does seem to indicate the ignition switch or fuel injector power monitor as where the fault lies. I would lean towards the ignition switch.

The wire from the instrument panel power point is a red wire running directly to F17 ( a 20 amp fuse) of the battery junction box (hot at all times). In order to have this power outlet switched off when the car was off, you would need to cut the wire running to the outlet and run it through a relay http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Truck-Relay-Socket-SPDT/dp/B007JPPQH6 , using quick splice connectors http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-85462-Quick-Waterproof-Splice/dp/B003SYYGXM/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423765071&sr=1-6&keywords=quick+splice+connector The relay coil (+) side would then have to be wired to an existing circuit that is energized only with the ignition switch is in the start or run position. One possible solution, you could tap into the wire running to the HVAC module. It's a violet wire with green stripe, running to terminal #24 of the HVAC module; located in the center consul area, below the radio. (Same for both manual and automatic HVAC systems). The relay (-) wire would simply run to any good ground. You could use the black with gray stripe wire coming from terminal, #23 of the HVAC module, for the ground. By doing this, when the car was shut off, the relay would not be energized and the power outlet source of supply, would be cut. Once the iginition was in the start or run position, the relay would close and energize the outlet. As your only tapping off the HVAC supply, its function would be unhampered; you would only be adding a small milliamp load to the circuit.

Zip ties did indeed work. Have to get them on tight, but their just enought to keep net from sliding off bottom. And because I did not fasten them over the net hook, I can still remove the net by slipping it off. Thanks for the heads up!

Do the interior lights come on when you rotate the dimmer switch to the dome lamp position? If yes, it's probably one of door ajar switch(s) hanging up for dirt, old grease, etc. Try opening each door and spraying WD-40 into each door latch. Then open and close each door several times to free it up. If the interior lights do not come on with the dimmer switch, the smart junction box probably has a fault in it. (Secondary options include broken wires, corroded connections, etc).

I have gasbuddy on my phone as well, and Travel Link on the MKX. What I like about travel link is, not only gives you the gas prices in your vicinity, but you can also pick one on the display and the nav unit will set it as the destination. Makes it easy to use in a strange city rather that struggling with a phone, set at night. Was on business in Louisville earlier this year and had to find a gas station before I checked in to the hotel. Would have been lost had I relied on Gasbuddy, with all the one-way streets and whatnot. Plus you get some extras, like local movies, weather radar. It's easily worth the $2 a month IMO.

I have an 09 MKX and get the gas station names and info, but not prices. As that would be in real time, it has to be coming in from somewhere. My guess is you are getting updates through your iphone. To test this, you could try this feature with your phone off (do not link before you drive ) and see if you still are getting gas prices. I have Sirius Travel Link and get gas prices on the Travel Link screen, but it does not link to the nav screen. (At least I don't think it does, never seen it do this). Any chance the former owner had an annual subscription to Sirius that may still be continuing? You could check for a Travel Link connection on the info screen.

Looks great!

I have an 09 MKX. Did Ford/Lincoln change the design in the 09 or will I need to be concerned in the future as well?

Thank you! FYI, about a half hour ago Verizon notified me that they just came out with a new upgrade for the Galaxy S5; Android version 5.0 (Code name Lollipop). Offers more support for automotive features, plus a bunch of other stuff like 3D views and floating buttons. I downloaded it and now have messaging. Can read on screen or listen to the message being read. Can also reply via Sync. The new Baseband Version is G900VVRU1BOA8.

Have you tried going over the area of the scratch with a fine rubbing compound?

Samsung Galaxy 5, Horizon, 09 MKX with Vs. 2 sync. New phone. Old one was a Droid where everything worked perfectly. Phone will sync OK, make and receive calls, but will not work with messages. When I attempt to send a text message, I get "connected device does not support messaging via blue-tooth"! When I receive a message, phone squawks but Sync sits there dumbfounded. Am I missing something?

Try this, click on http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?&autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Edge+SE&autoYear=2011&autoModClar=FWD&sort=Brand Input "20" for diameter, "silver" for finish and when you find a wheel you like click on "see on vehicle" (change the car color to white if a different color is shown by default). This particular site does not seem to carry the exact wheel your looking for, I.E. 5-spoke, KMC, in silver (they do have it in black), but they do carry three other brands (in silver, 5-spoke).

We were driving Sunday and the roads around here were very slick, nearly frictionless at certain intersections. My 09 MKX did just as you were describing; really loud and heavy vibrations. Seems to kick in harder when stopping from faster speeds (say 40 instead of 30). On "normal" intersection's where the snow pack was heaver and not as slick, the noise level was low and less vibration. I think Waldo hit it on the head with the system becoming more aggressive in low friction road surfaces. I also think speed is contributing to a more aggressive stopping effort as well. (I also found much longer stopping distances, but attributed that to the thin layer of black ice on the road).

Has anyone here installed Sylvania's zevo LED's? http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/ZEVO/Pages/DRL-Pixel-and-Pipe.aspx or interior lights (16 colors, 5 modes). http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/products/automotive/ZEVO/Pages/ZEVO-Interior-Strip-Kit.aspx (Why anyone would need 16 colors is beyond me, I have 6 and usually keep it turned off anyways.)

Just out of curiosity, does thus happen in the same location (IE parking lot at work) or in various places?