enigma-2

I had the same problem with my old 4-door Mercury Sable. Fixed it by spraying WD-40 into each of the door latch mech. (Turned out it was the rear passenger that was hanging up. Old greese probably. Happened twice while I owned it, so I started spraying WD-40 into the locks once every year.

Just thought I would add a postscript to the question of keyless entry. When I bought my 09 a couple of weeks ago, I had them hook up a computer and read the factory-programmed combination. They did, and when I read the previous replies, checked inside my fuse box and found an entirely different number! Tried both and they both work. Apparently, Ford (Lincoln in my case) programs uses two different combinations. Got to wondering if the number they read in the computer was the previous owner's number, reprogrammed both owner memories with new numbers and rechecked; both factory numbers still work. So now I have four different numbers that will open my MKX.

Wife and I were at Sams Club yesterday, I thought I would browse their automotive section. Seen where they are selling a complete wireless backup monitoring system; consists of a wireless camera, mounts to the car with suction cup , and a wireless monitor, again with suction cup. Whole installation should take about ten minutes. Sells for $99.50. Granted, a suction cup camera will only last for a couple of days before a kid rips it off in a parking lot, but the concept was interesting. I suppose one could mount the camera inside the vehicle, in the rear tailgate window. Would still need to charge the battery occasionally. Be somewhat of a pain. Not entirely practical, but interesting.

I'm new to the forum and I guess I really don't understand to the problem, but... I assume the flashing rate speeds up because the mechanical flasher is not drawing enough current. It seems that the fix should be simple enough, why not just switch out the old flasher unit with an electronic one? An electronic flasher (that is a single relay) will flash your lights at the same rate whether they are incandescent or LED. I assume you all thought of this, so what am I missing?

I read the link, if the pins fall out so easily, why not just wire-tie the cord to the mirror mount for strain relief? Believe I will purchase a mirror power cable, does seem to be exactly was I was looking for.

Alas, neither will work on a Cobra. Guess I'll either resign myself to running an outdated detector, or spending $400 for a new V1. Thanks for the reply.

Thinking of purchasing a wire harness to connect my {old} Cobra radar detector to my rear-view mirror wiring (get rid of cord running down to the power outlet). Has anyone installed this type of harness (or similar) in their Edge/MKX? Were you able to get the pins pushed into the rear view mirror connector? As I understand it, the "poor" ratings of this harness are based on the connector being wired backward, if so, should be easy enough to verify and reverse. re: http://www.amazon.com/PerformancePackageTM-Radar-Detector-MirrorWire-Power/dp/B00I4FABFC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414945042&sr=8-2&keywords=cobra+radar+wire

I would try to open the VistaRoof and close it again. Guessing that the Roof didn't activate the limit switch that signals it being closed (allowing the sunshades to begin close procedure).

Just bought a used 2009 Lincoln MKX and while checking out the car on the lot, was amazed that there was no rust on the under-body. No undercoating either. (I actually crawled under the car on the lot to check out the under-body). Anyway, that's pretty much unheard of here in Northern Indiana with all the salt they use on the roads. County highway started using a liquid slurry a few years back that's even worst for cars. Car's history was Michigan, then Ohio and finally they moved to Northern Indiana. So It's been continuously exposed to road salt. The dealer told me they don't undercoat anymore, just put one of these modules on. Six year-old car and not a speck of rust on the under-body. I had never heard of an electronic module that stops a car from rusting, but this one had it one it since new. The previous owner took the module off and took it with him, so I decided to have a new one put on. It has a 10-year warranty through the dealer against rusting. (Dealer's body shop takes care of any rust that pops up). According to the literature they gave me, it only works on cars that have galvanized bodies (doesn't work on bare steel). When a stone hits to under-body, it breaks the galvanized coating, exposing the steel. The galvanizing starts to bleed over the injured area, however before it can completely, there is some sort of reaction (an oxide forms) and slow or prevents the galvanizing from completing the repair, before the rust starts. I guess the way it works is, the module sends out a pulsating RF frequency wave and is supposed to prevent the oxide from forming, allowing time for the galvanizing to cover the wound. My last car was undercoated and had rusted out all over the underbody from the salt. Used to run it through the local car wash during the winter months as well. (Reason I traded it, damage got to be too extensive to repair any longer. Anyone had any experience with one of these modules? I've read that they're snake oil & not effective on cars, but seeing how clean it was underneath shocked me, nearly like new (even through it had gone through six winters in the north).