enigma-2

There are six elements that involved in the circuit. Wiring, relays, fuses, fan control module, cooling fan motor(s) & cooling fan resistor(s). Electrically, the fans come off fuse #5 - 60 amp (w/o trailer tow pkg) -or- #5 & #6 - 40 amp ea. (with trailer tow pkg) in the battery junction box. For the tow pkg. both fuses are wired into one wire that leads to the fan module. It's a VT-GY insulation. From the fuse(s), the circuit runs to the cooling fan module and then to the fans (one conductor that feeds in parallel with no trailer tow, or two separate conductors with trailer tow pkg.). The cooling fan module also takes an input from the power-train control module. In the power-train emissions manual it talks about determining which codes are set (to determine if the fault is coming from the power-train control module or from somewhere else). Without knowing the codes, it gets very detailed as to how to trace the circuits by pulling the connectors and checking for voltage. Gets more complicated in that some vehicles have the relay wiring reversed on power and that would result in the fans running all the time when the engine is off. With neither fan running I would check the fuse first (fuses if you have trailer tow pkg.) If OK, I would suspect the fan module as failing. The fan control module is part of the entire assembly. (One nice thing is that once you disconnect the wiring harness, the fan assemble is only attached with two bolts. From the manual: 1. Remove the Air Cleaner (ACL) assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 . 2. If equipped, detach the 2 block heater wiring clips from the radiator support. 3. Detach the wiring harness retainers and position the harness aside. 4. Position aside the upper radiator hose from the cooling fan motor and shroud. 5. Disconnect the cooling fan motor electrical connector. 6. If equipped, remove the bolt and position aside the oil cooler bracket. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 7. Remove the 2 bolts and the cooling fan motor and shroud. To install, tighten to 6 Nm (53 lb-in). 8. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

So, didja do it right and leave the price sticker attached to the side window?

How about routing a water-resistant wire under the car, in a best-case, protected location?

I could be wrong but I thought that the way the DRL's work is to switch the FETS in the lighting circuit rapidly and thereby causing the lights to be switched on and off, with a 50% duty cycle for DRL, resulting in less output. The lights are seeing full voltage however.

I would seriously doubt that anything remotely near this will be happening. MFT was based on Microsoft Windows and Sync 3 is based on a version of QNX. Simply put, MFT is dead. They have already spent a huge amount of time trying to fix it and ended up removing flawed features (as a fix). That tells us that it can't be fixed and they have pulled the plug.

If your radio is anything like my 09, the camera connects into the middle connector on the back of the unit. (There is no RCA connector).

I would like to do this on mine. What did you use?

When my 09 turned 90k, I called local dealer and Asst service mgr told me that they "should" be changed at 100k. Later I talked with the service manager and he told me best to do it at 90k as they are titanium plugs and they will continue to fire ok well past they recommend change interval; but as they wear, the gap will widen and the coils will draw more current to fire them. This in turn will cause the coils to overheat and eventually fail.

When my 09 turned 90k, I called local dealer and Asst service mgr told me that they "should" be changed at 100k. Later I talked with the service manager and he told me best to do it at 90k as they are titanium plugs and they will continue to fire ok well past they recommend change interval; but as they wear, the gap will widen and the coils will draw more current to fire them. This in turn will cause the coils to overheat and eventually fail.

Was looking over older posts and noticed that one of the wheels lost its hub cap (they say "Sport" on them). Might consider picking one up from eBay before taking it back.

I checked on my 09 MKX using the GPS on my cell phone & my speedometer is about 2-3 mph fast. That's probably typical.

So are the cow's hoofs but I'll be darned if I'm going to give up my strawberry jello!

Heh, nope, Indiana, love the Bears though.

I show the following for a 2010 Edge: Horn, VT-GN Ambient air sensor, YE-GN Front impact severity sensor, Left hand: VT-GN & YE-GY Right hand: WH-BU (fcs feed pas) + GN-BU (fcs return pas)

Oem tires?

Eh, it's "William Perry". (Older generation joke).

2015 Edge service manual on DVD sells for $50 on Ebay. Includes wiring diagrams and pollution control systems.

Wonder if the infamous door switch could be in early stages of failing? If switch failed to show door open, would it be possible that the radio circuit would continue to think that all doors still closed, and continue to play? (Radio went off after opening and closing the door). Would be unrelated of course, but seems possible.

Sorry for the partial response, worked late last night. Was reading on another forum where anot her person had a simular problem. His turned out to be the rear differential gears had shredded and burnt the grease. Said when the dealer opened the cover the entire garage filled with smell of propane. Another wrote that oil leaking from power steering blew on to exhaust manifold causing smell like propane. Both seem related to grease,oil getting too hot. Can't see the relationship to the radio staying on however.

On my mkx, it's normal for the radio to stay on after the ignition has been turned off and the key removed. It will stay on for about 15 minutes or until a door is opened. As yours stayed on after the door was opened indicates a fault of the accessory delay system. To troubleshoot the accessory protocol module, you would need a computer. This module is located in the center console.

If kit was a new vehicle when rented, they will usually go over the car with a fine toothed comb. Even so, the company who wrote the contract is the one who has to sign off on the vehicle, as they are the onest who acruelly owns the car. They can always come back on the leasee for anything they find on their (separate) inspection (which is why the dealer will look so closely. Larry ( my friend who leased his Explorer), said they refused to accept any touch up and required the dings to be done by their body shop (told him he could have used any body shop prior to return, but at that point his lease was up, no choice). He also had to pay for one new wheel. So the next car he leased and parked way out in the parking lot. Every time we went to take his car, he would do a Walk-around and check everything. Really paranoid. Never told me what it cost on returning the Explorer, but it was several hundred. (Which is why you need to have the dealer take a look and see if it would be cheaper to have the dings fixed at a less expensive shop.) Don't know about the wheels, if not clear, could be 6" total for all wheels. Dings are cheap, four new wheels from a dealer would be a killer. I would be interested in knowing what you find out.

Do not pry on the outer register trim bezel. The clips on the outer register trim bezel break if pried on to remove the register. Working through the register vein openings, insert a suitable hook shaped pick behind each of the 4 register clips while gently pulling the register rearward with the hook to disengage the clip. Remove the driver or passenger side instrument panel register. (Note that this procedure is for the Edge. The MKX is much more complicated).

If you read the reviews on Amazon, they are overwhelming negative. A common complaint is the crap coats the electrical connectors in the resivoir and leaves the low fluid light on permanently. Chrysler has a TSB on repairing the electronic sensor but makes it clear the owner is responsible for the costs. Another complaint is under certain curcumstances the fluid coats the windshield with a white film making it impossible to see clearly. This stuff is complete crap.

I believe that the coating is there to prevent glare & is only present on low beams, fog lamps & dual filiment bulbs, (9004,6,7 H4,etc), never on high beams (9005, etc), as no need to block glare on high beams. You will ruin the bulb if you try to remove it. Just checked on my 09 MKX, my low beams are H11 and have a black coating, whereas my high beams 9005 do not.

Like Omar302 said, antenna may have become loose from running through car wash. Also check overhead consul, eyeglasses might be source of vibration. If it still persists you could isolate by walking around front of car with a gas leaf blower, have wife in car signal when wind from blower causes vibration. (Maybe windshield trim or part on roof).