enigma-2

By default, SYNC 4 plys each reach in alphabetical order (even when playing by album.) The system sorts by filename in ASCII code. To get the system to pay each single in a specific order, you must rename the title to be read in the specific order you choose. The BEST way to achieve this is to rename your songs with numbers, i.e. "01 Tammy.mp3", "02 Sitting in the back seat with Fred. mp3", "03 I sold my heart to the junkman.mp3", etc. Use a preceeding zero on numbers below 10 to avoid 10 or 100 playing before 2, etc. Organize the music into clear directory to make it easier to follow on the touchscreen: Root Folder: "Pop Music" Subfolder: "60's hits" Album Name: "Girl Groups" >"01 Tammy.mp3" >"02 Sitting in the back seat with Fred. mp3" >"03 I sold my heart to the junkman.mp3" etc. Plug the jumpdrive into the USB-A or USB-C port located in the center console, >Audio >Sources >USB >Select by Folder, Artist, or Album (make certain "Shuffle" is disabled.) This should work perfectly. I think 🙂

When I've been face with this, I try to get a needle nose on the end of the threads, hold it tight and loosen the nut. Then when the nut gets to the end of the threads, move the needle nose to the newly exposed threads and continue to remove the nut. The only other way is to add some metal to the end of the bolt (weld, solder, braze, gorilla glue, ect.), something to grab on to; and then proceed. .

Something to think about

A spare tire kit for a 2015–2024 Ford Edge includes an 18-inch spare tire, a mounted steel rim, a scissor jack, a lug nut wrench, and a securing bolt/retainer. OEM Part Number: FR3Z-1K007-C. ~$300 https://share.google/17yEg1PXz7jyRNqvJ You can't use a tire larger than a 18" compact spare as it won't fit the storage wheelwell in the rear. (I physically tried it.) .

If your Edge has a touchscreen, go to Settings > Vehicle > Lighting and check to see thar no override settings are active. One other possibility is if vehicle's battery is low, the battery saver system will disable courtesy lights if it detects a low battery. .

Try performing a "Hard Reset". Disconnect the vehicle's battery for 10 minutes. Inspect the compass wiring for loose connections (or corrosion.) The compass sensor is located near the interior rearview mirror. A faulty connection or a damaged sensor module often causes the compass to stay stuck or show a "N" (No Response.")

This happened to me on my 2009 MKX, drivers side seat. Turned out to be the TED. (ThermoElectric Devices — also known as a Peltier element.) Dealer replaced under extended warranty. A couple of years later the seat passenger TED went. Had the dealer replace both (just in case...) $$$$

If you have a Titanium, it's probably a trim switch used to control ambient lighting. If not, turn it and see. ... poof, thump .

A failing 12V battery can cause intermittent steering assist failures.

Ford has identified an issue where the ABS module software. It can cause cruise control to deactivate and trigger these specific warning lights. The fix requires reprogramming the ABS module. (This is usually covered under warranty.) 2nd possibility is a faulty wheel speed sensor. (If the car cannot "see" how fast a wheel is turning, it cannot safely operate ABS or cruise control.) Inspect the wiring to each sensor for damage. (Should pop a code.) 3rd is an ABS module Hardware Failure. Should pop a code.

I've never had good experience with the electric sprayers, they last a year or two. Have never had a problem with my gas sprayer, has a Honda engine. Don't use a high pressure washer in your engine compartment. Followed this video few years ago and never had a problem.

Hard to beat Techron Fuel System Cleaner.

Think these are p/n you're looking for. *Input Shaft Seal: 7T4Z-7086-A *Output Shaft Seal: GB5Z-7275-A *Pinion Gear (6F50/AT43): Often found as 26 teeth / 42 splines

From what I've read, most failures were related to lack of maintenance (not changing the coolant or oil changes properly.) I plan on having mine changed at around 175k. (My 2009 3.5L MKX currently has around 144k.) My mechanic drops the engine, and changes everything that fails when he does water pump. Not just the water pump, thermostat, timing, but camshaft phasers as well.

Guessing.. About the only thing that comes to mind that's electrical and related to changing the water pump & can affect starting is the cam/crank position sensors. (Plugged in, broken wire?)

Electronic Throttle Control..?

This can be caused by a bad ground connection. Trace your ground cable coming off the battery to chassis ground.

Purge valve will set CEL. Is the check engine light on?

Fuses control the PCM. I recently watched a video on YouTube where the mechanic tracked an identical problem to the connector in the tailgate, that connected to the rear wiper. It appeared that water leaked through the rear wiper seal (where the shift exits the tailgate body.) Water leaked through the deteriorated seal and dripped down onto the connector. (Think drip, drip, drip.) This caused green crusties (corrosion) to form between adjacent connections on the connector (on the outside, at the top of the connector.) This fed the 'wiper keep alive current' to an adjacent circuit, which backfed the leakage voltage back to the fuse panel in the engine compartment; which kept the PCM alive. (Took him several hours to track down.) He was getting just 3 volts (or something lower than battery voltage) in the backfeed; which didn't make any sense. He found that the crusties acted like a resistor, allowing a reduced amount of battery voltage to be applied to an adjacent wire in the connector, that should be dead when the car was off. I'd have a close look at the rear wiper seal. If it looks like there's a microscopic gap where the seal exits, I'd get suspicious and pop off the hatchback interior cover and look at the connector. Your car is the right age for a deteriorated wiper body seal. .!@##$ spellchecker...

Have you solved this yet? If not, I'd suggest taking a close look at the VVT solenoid that was replaced. It is most likely due an improper seal seat. And yes, a stuck PVC valve can cause a buildupnof pressure, forcing oil to leak at several places.

Old fluid is a known cause,, but you've already addressed that. (Change at 30k — 40k intervals.) At 68k you're past the 60k warranty. Have you checked for codes? P0741 is a code which often displays when this condition occurs. (Torque converter clutch solenoid performance). TSB 21-2389 addresses the problem of shuddering or jerking at speeds up to 35 mph. (Doesn't occur above 35 mph.) Is revises the software in the PCM. (Changes when the xmission shifts.) .

Had a similar squeeking sould on my MKX at the front if the instrument panel (next to the windshield. Pried the strip up slightly and sprayed silicone spray. Stopped it for several years. Back again after several years ... 🤬 Try prying out slightly and spray with silicone.

Looking this code up, reads that there's a malfunction in the All-Wheel Drive, PTU Actuator Motor. The internal motor that engages the AWD system has become physically stuck or has failed electronically. My guess is that there's a break (short to ground or open) in the harness leading to the PTU actuator. Could also be green crusties in the connector. Once fixed, I think you will need forescan to reset the system.

Late answer,, but if you're still having problems.... This often occurs after a battery change. (Touching the battery terminal with a battery lead in a tapping motion, can cause an electrical glitch.) Try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes. This often clears temporary electrical faults and allows the module to reboot. If that doesn't work, try a manual recalibration. The procedure is in your owners manual.