enigma-2

"Blinker," I was being facetious. Sorry, long day. 🙂 Why are you replacing the ABS module?

Found them on Amazon. Not too expensive. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=seatbelt+extender+for+ford&adgrpid=71528143127&hvadid=589905295884&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9016241&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=12170112768007906479&hvtargid=kwd-424967327708&hydadcr=18758_13485101&mcid=e5b7195914aa302bb04cf491b6e2f8cf&tag=hydsma-20&ref=pd_sl_7id77nypc5_b

Did you get a quote from your local Ford dealer as a starting point? Also, you may find this video of help

You try torching the bolt?

Things to consider as well: Power steering Brake fluid PTU Coolant Blinker RDU (90k or after anytime car driven through deep water) Can of fuel injection & system cleaner (1-2× year) Cabin filter Check air pressure in spare tire

Any chance the parking brake is malfunctioning? (On mine, there are shoes, but don't know if they changed the design on electric models.) Usually the front go first. I changed my front twice before the rear. I know that certain 2017 Edge models are having problems with the rear brake hoses. While the problems reported by NHTSA have been brake failure when the hoses ruptured, I wonder if its possible that the hoses are bent or have a reduced diameter. (Allowing high pressure to apply the brakes, but not allowing the fluid to drain back properly; keeping the pads in contact with the rotor.) .

Don't know where else to stick this thread. Passenger seatbelt is constantly locking on wife. She has to unbuckle and let it go slack to get it to release. I was able to free up the mechanism by using WD40 a couple of years ago; but it's back with a vengeance. Took to the Ford garage, told them to put a new belt assy on. Oh, nay, nay, you fool. They don't sell seatbelts for such an old car. Had them spray some PB Blaster on the mechanism, but it didn't help. Guess I'll go to ebay and buy one from a wreck. Anyone else having a similar problem? .

I believe that the reason is because the front seatbelts have pretensioners which put an additional load on the latch mechanism. Because of this, there is considerable more tensile forces on the front seats compared to the back. When we used a booster seat for my grandson, we found the seatbelt was tight as well. Went to Ford and got one extension for the back seat (they only stock one at a time as they're free and not in high demand.) Before that however, I discovered that putting my knee in the seat to push it as deep into seat as possible allowed extra length on the belt. Its easier with the extension however. Why don't you just bite the bullet and buy a couple off ebay? BTW, tell the parts dept that you need the extenders for your wife's mother and father. They're overweight and unable to fasten their seatbelts. That they just hold them pretending to be wearing them. (Parts guy told me to use this excuse as they hate to order them unless it's a "safety issue".) .

$58 for a 2024 Edge manual. https://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.asp?Style=helm&Mfg=FMC&Make=FRD&Model=EDGE&Year=&Category=&Keyword=&Module=&selected_media=

All cars exhibit this frosting problem when still cold and human breathing causes excess moisture to fill the cabin. Heating the interior hot enough will cause the interior windows to clear. It sounds like either the recirculating / fresh air door motor is stuck in the recirculation position, or the defrost door isn't reaching the full open position. Q. Do you have a strong defrost airflow? Does it sound like the door is switching between recirculating and outside air? The other possibility is that there's not sufficient heat being directed to the cabin interior. This is usually attributed to a blockage in the heater core due to mixing diffetent coolants, etc. Q. Does the heater warm the interior of the car? Warm enough to peal off your hat and coat? Along with this is insufficient airflow in the cabin. Running the heater in the recirculating position can cause this. Also junk under the seats can block airflow rearward. Air circulation is critical.

Little weird. I was looking in the 2024 Edge Owners Manual and the relay was #40, fuse was #50. But in the 2024 Lincoln Nautilus there's no horn fuse or relay listed.

Must have been on earlier years where I remember reading this.

Don't know if you progressed on this since posting, but I'd certainly pay the diagnostic fee as its probably serious (or will be.) Just curious, FWD front or AWD?

New bearing greased properly? Grease on splines where shaft flexes in and out?

@CrackedDSM wasn't too specific as to the exact location. His advice was to start checking the wiring at each sensor (each wheel), follow up into car and then to ABS module. He found his break in the harness under the back seat. Its more likely that a break would occur under the car where it's subject to ice, snow, road debris like rocks and stuff. Under the back seat sorta tells me he had shoved something under the seat, hitting the harness. crusting. I'd also check the connector at the ABS module for green crusties.

VERY COMMON PROBLEM being reported with the S25. The S25 seems to have been optimized for use with the Samsung charger which limits max current when charging. The higher current causes the phone to get hot and shut down. When cooled, it starts to charge again. Then repeats. One user reported (Samsung forum) his charger (which worked perfectly with his S23) was drawing higher current when needing more charge (weak cell battery.) His fix was to charge the phone using a cable (connected to the 12v power port) to about 2/3 charged, then finish it off with the wireless charger. Said this solved the problem.

I'll assume that both remotes are OEM. Sounds like the fob's are registered (as they seem to function.) Unlikey they'd both fail at the same time. So the next thing I'd check is to test the car's battery. May be failing. (Must check the CCA reserve, not the voltage. Even weak batteries can test over 14 v before cranking.)

This Ford website might help. https://veteransfordtampa.com/which-ford-vehicles-can-be-flat-towed#:~:text=Why Flat Towing?,for planning your next adventure.&text=Ford has a diverse lineup,the open road without limitations.

If I'm not mistaken, the single horn doesn't use a relay, where the dual horn assy requires the relay.

As an additional thought, have you tested your cold cranking capacity Amperage, of your vehicle battery? Low voltage can also cause the shift solenoid from functioning and cause various other systems from responding.

It's on page 188-9 of the owners manual. ------- "STOPPING THE ENGINE WHEN YOUR VEHICLE IS MOVING WARNING: Switching off the engine when your vehicle is still moving results in a significant decrease in braking assistance. Higher effort is required to apply the brakes and to stop your vehicle. A significant decrease in steering assistance could also occur. The steering does not lock, but higher effort could be required to steer your vehicle. When you switch the ignition off, some electrical circuits, for example airbags, also turn off. If you unintentionally switch the ignition off, shift into neutral (N) and restart the engine. E357998 1. Press and hold the push button ignition switch until the engine stops, or press it three times within two seconds. 2. Shift into neutral and use the brakes to bring your vehicle to a safe stop. 3. Shift into park (P). 4. Apply the parking brake."

... and any assistance or recommendations of anything that should be addressed maintenance wise, or preventive maintenance wise would be greatly appreciated. This response is a little late, but I'll give you my recommendations. Fluids Change the transmission fluid (important), PTU fluid (important), the coolant (important), the brake fluid, the power steering fluid, and the rear axle fluid. I'm assuming that the oil was changed on schedule. Look for a sticker & if its over mileage or missing completely, change the oil. Only use a Motorcraft filter. ->Consider having to oil change at local Ford dealer and request a "The Works" oil change. It includes a ¹synthetic blend oil change, ²tire rotation (and ³pressure check), ⁴brake inspection, ⁵vehicle checkup (ask for a close look at steering and suspension components, ⁶fluids top-off, ⁷battery test, ⁸filter check & ⁹belts/hoses check. Filters Check the engine air filter. Change the cabin air filter (definitely check this one, often over looked and can be harbor bacteria. Its located behind the glove compartment. There are YouTube videos that show how to change. Amazon has dozens for sale, use Motorcraft as your starting point.) If car has heated/cooled seats, (not heat only), there's a "filter" of sorts under the center of each seat. Use a flashlight and check to make certain its clear and there's nothing under to seat to block the fan intake. (It's opening is round, around 3" in diameter, under seat neater center.) Lights Do a walk around and make certain all lights are working. Have someone step on brakes when you check. Tires Check the spare tire for air pressure. This is often overlooked and they tend to leak down slowly & nearly flat when needed. Inflate to the pressure marked on the sidewall. Check air pressure in ALL four regular tires. Inflate to the pressure marked on the sticker on door pillar (NOT pressure marked on tire.) Rotate tires, drivers to passenger rear, passenger rear to passenger front, passenger front to drivers rear & drivers rear to drivers front. Wipers Check wiper blades. If new needed, drivers is 26", passenger is 20". These are beam type. Rear is 14", bow style. There are YouTube videos available to show you the secret to replace rear blade. (Bosch and Trico are the best, longest lasting.) Check windshield washer fluid. Do not use plain water. Check that it sprays on windshield AND rear window properly. Moon roof If she has a moon roof, consider spraying the track with silicone spray. Plugs Normally you change spark plugs at around 90k. Its a little early, but wouldn't hurt. (Not too bad on a 4-cylinder, but a 3.5L, V6 will run around $650.) It's very important that the plugs get changed on schedule as the older they get, the wider the gap and the more current it takes to fire them. More current means more heat in the coils. If the coils get too hot, they fail. If they fail by burning open, you only need change the coil (hundred bucks or so.) However if the coil shorts, it takes out the PCM (can get a rebuilt for around $250. New around $500, plus coils.) Let's see, doing this from memory, what am I forgetting? .

This is a little late, but if you still have the problem, I had a similar problem with my passenger seat. Wife would be sitting in it and suddenly it would decide to fold back. (Kinda funny to be driving along and she started to disappear. She never found it funny though.) Anyway, the problem was the seat switch. (As I have the MKX, it was a 10 way switch.) Simple enough to replace, wrote about how to replace in a different article in this forum.

Look below the instrument cluster. There is a switch with three buttons. They are marked (left to right): "INFO", "SETUP" & "RESET." This control allows you select, change and reset several functions which are shown in the INFO screen at the bottom of the instrument cluster. Press "SETUP". This will allow you to make changes on the following areas; System Check Units (English/Metric) Autolamp Autolock Autounlock Apparently your boyfriend was pushing buttons to see what they did & forgot to set everything back to original.

Mass Airflow Sensor dirty. Bad ignition coil. Faulty ignition coil boot causing short to ground under heavy load. One or more spark plugs fouled. A partially clogged fuel filter.