mjonis

ha! No fog lights in 2017. Who was saying it was coming with it? Or did I read this list wrong?

I'm assuming applink is the "native" thingy for Sync 3? (Similar to Pioneer AppRadio which is very different from AA/Carplay)? If so, does it let you voice control your Android/iPhone via the steering wheel like AA/Carplay? ie: Press button on steering wheel, say: Play iHeart Radio

sorry what I meant was the front seats, the back (vs. the butt) don't cool. Oh, and I forgot another dislike: The Driver's side "foot rest" thingy on the left on the floor. It's designed for like my mom who's 4' 10". I'm only 5' 7" and it's too far forward (or too close to the seat, depending on your view). Especially compared to all the others I've test driven.

Wow, sounds like a good deal to me.

Yeah that's what I was trying to look out for when I say "lemon". Especially after the 2015 issues with water leaking and tail light condensation issues. So far the only issues I've seen/heard ("big" ones anyway) on the 2016s are: Seat back cooling issue (mitigated by like $300 aftermarket add-on that you have to install yourself) Car suddenly dies/stalls (but this appears to have been fixed with TSB now) Random noises/rattles/etc. with welding/sheet metal (that kinda disturbs me). Although my car has enough noises (although not really that many) but it's almost 12 years old so that's to be expected. My Lemonox within the first 4 years: 3 trips to the dealer for Audio hiss, turned out to be a "working as designed" over-powered amp that GM put in the vehicle only solvable by removing factory HU and putting in aftermarket kit at my cost of about $500 plus 2 days worth of time. Battery died (my Ford went like 6 years before battery needed replacing). Chevy died at 3.5 years. Repeated (twice) water leaks into the spare time compartment due to poor sealing of rubber gasket around lift gate. 5 trips to the dealer to fix (sigh). Then of course, we have the repeated head gasket failures, struts went out at 65k, tie rods, sway bars, carrier bearing, some spring (coil spring?), axle, water pump, AC condensor thingy (have to look at the receipt), drive shaft all needing replacement at under 75k. Tires, muffler I can understand. I don't off-road with this thing either. But that's related to this particular model (not just model year). Google Chevy Equinox head gasket or Chevy Equinox carrier bearing and you'll see what i mean. Good news is so far I'm seeing very few complaints about the 2016 Edge (not so much the 2015).

For those of you that have a 2016 Edge: What are your top likes/dislikes? I don't have one (yet--maybe), but there's lots of things that an actual owner might find that I might skip. Please list what model/trim you have. For right now, my "list" (based solely on specs and the one 2016 test drive): Likes: 1) Styling 2) Sync 3 (vs. MFT) 3) Cabin quietness 4) Ride quality 5) Power of turbo and mpg Dislikes: 1) Still no Carplay/AA 2) No seat back cooling that works 3) No power tilt/fold side mirrors 4) No "autonomous" braking 5) No fog lights

A few problems with that article, as it's a bit outdated now. 1) The residual is determined by a third party company named something like ALG. At least with dealer lease companies. It's also based on geographic location. But in my area, the Titanium AWD Edge was 59% residual. The residual is ALWAYS based on the MSRP so you get screwed there as well. 60% of 48k (Kia for example) means your cost is about 29k, but the "sales" price maybe you got it for 40k. 2) Generally speaking: the lower the residual (while you are correct, that's "better" for you if you want to buy it), the lease company jacks up the monthly payments. In other words, you're going to pay for it somehow. Unless the company in #1 screwed up and mis-calculated their projected 3-year residual. However, that company's track record is something like 99% accurate. WAY back when the auto companies did their own numbers and there have been a handful of cases where they screwed up and you could get a better deal. Edmunds does list how to calculate the lease payment, and from that formula (it's like 12 steps or something) you can calculate the total cost of the negotiated lease, plus the option to buy and compare that against buying outright. What you absolutely cannot negotiate on the lease is the MF/APR. That's set in stone by the finance company and based on your credit score. Zero negotiating in that number. Since the 3 vehicles I'm looking at, all companies are offering 0% financing for either 60 or 66 months (I think Hyundai is 0.9 % and then cash back which equals the interest payments of 0.9% for the 60 months so in essence it's 0%), and compared to the lease numbers (anticipated negotiated price of 10% off MSRP for all vehicles in question), it averages about $1200-1500 more over the long run for leasing vs. buying outright. For me anyway. Although I'm not sure if I took into account Kia's $0 lease acquisition offer whereas Ford/Hyundai have the $595 or whatever lease acquisition fee. But that might be negotiable. The Kia has the highest residual at 60% (3 year lease, 10.5k miles/year). Hyundai for some reason is at 54% residual. Now, you could say that means the Hyundai is "better" in that regard. I also look at it to say that the Ford/Kia hold their values better than the Hyundai. But since I'm planning on keeping the thing for 12+ years that doesn't really matter because by that time, you'll have almost nothing left anyway (well maybe you will, I dunno). I'm still leaning towards lease for 2 reasons: 1) lower monthly payments. Basically if I can get it for about $400-450/month, I can continue to pay that AND save another $200-300/month into my piggy bank for the car. I have 15k saved up already (another 7k if I really had to, but prefer not to touch that). In 3 years, that'll put me around 22-25k and then I can buy the car outright. This leaves me some wiggle room if Murphy comes to visit 2) If I get a lemon again, I just turn it in at the end of the lease. However, for #2: then I'm back to square one in terms of buying, although maybe then I can get a 2 year old one for 30k or something. But that assumes I can get one. Seems on the high end vehicles, you don't find them used after 2-3 years, and if you do, it's black or white in color (no way). If I buy: Monthly payments appear to be around $650 (for the most expensive - Kia/Ford) at 60 months. I'd basically dip into my 15k car fund to make up the monthly difference, so at the end of the 5 years it's all paid off. but if Murphy comes to visit, I'm kinda screwed (I do have an emergency fund for my 3-4 months of take home income, so it's probably closer to 5-6 months of actual expenses). If I buy and it's a lemon, I have to sell it (assuming you can since by then everyone knows it's a bad model year), and continue to make payments because it won't be worth more than owed on it after say, 3 years. Or wait for 5 years with a lemon and then back to square one again. Trade in, the dealer will totally hose you (not really their fault, but they know they can't sell the lemons as easy and you'll be out at least 3-4k less than private party sale). Decisions decisions.

Wow, thanks! I was using the Ford.com website and it's a bit tricky for what it shows (especially since you can't pick the packages, so you have to "guess" on the price if it has the 302A). But that sounds like a better idea to ask the dealers to search for me. I feel better now. Well at least on this regard. My butt is still hurting from my Lemonox. Blown head gaskets and drive shaft. $3,000. Extended warranty will cover all but $900 or thereabouts (they don't cover the machine shop charges, or diagnostic, deductible, spark plugs, etc.) Will be glad to be rid of it. Driving my roomate's 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe sport. Not bad, but stiffer ride than what I'm used to. 4 cylinder engine feels anemic to me. I now realize I need to actually SIT in a test drive car for 30-60 minutes because I don't care for the seat in that Hyundai. But never noticed it before because I never drove it. I think that'll be more important (seat comfort) vs. cabin noise. I think one gets used to it in time. haha

OK, so I'm leaning towards the Ford edge vs. my other 2 vehicle choices (but no definite decision made yet as I still have to test drive the Kia and re-test drive the Santa Fe without the jabbering sales guy in the car this time). However, due to my job, I am not wanting to purchase until I pass probation, Nov. 2nd. I want to be in the new car no later than 11/30/16 which is when the extended warranty expires on my POS chevy. And, last year, there were black friday deals the entire month of Nov, if I remember correctly, so that's also a factor. Now, due to my bad luck with my POS Chevy, I'm very hesitant this go around, more with the Ford vs. Kia/Hyundai for a variety of reasons (2015 Edge problems with water leaks, etc. the seat backs don't cool, Ford's attitude over that and the buy-backs, etc.) Although anyone can have a bad car (look at me). So I'm seriously leaning towards leasing, and then if things are OK, purchase at the end of the lease. I've run the numbers, and without counting deals (basically I took the MSRP, 10% off and ran with that), it's *about* $1200-1500 more in the long run to lease and then buy outright vs. buy at 0% for 5-6 years. Maybe not the best financial sense, but I think I'd be more PO'd if I bought and got a lemon and then am stuck with it, vs. lease, get a lemon and then I can get something else (heck, maybe a used "competitor") if things go sideways. That being said: The Edge I would like is the Titanium AWD, 302A, with Driver's Package. I don't really want the 20" tires, but after test driving the one with the 19", I'm not keen on those either (to be honest, the SEL with 18" wheels seems a LOT smoother). So either way I'd probably switch out the wheels. (although leasing would probably have to keep the 20" around or whatever). The main issue seems to be in my area (Albany, NY), the dealers within 30' radius have never really stocked the Titanium AWD at all, let alone with the 302A (usually it's the base package), and I found ONE with 302A, but it's lacking the driver's package, and it's White (ugh). Sooo: Can you "order" one and lease it? By "order" I don't know if that means the dealer searches other Ford dealers, or has to order custom-made from Ford. I imagine if they could order, say, one from Texas (I just picked some random state far away), there's probably like a $900 transportation charge, but I imagine IF another ford dealer has one in inventory it would be faster vs. ordering from ford and waiting 2-3 months (based upon how slow they delivered the 2015/2016 that people ordered). At least given my area, it seems our Ford dealers may be "low" on the totem pole for order status on that model. Hope I spelled everything out in a non-confusing way. I don't mind getting a 2016 model year vs. 2017. At least, based on what I know so far, about the only "change" would be *maybe* addition of Fog lights on 2017, but Ford certainly won't be fixing the seat backs that don't cool. Assuming you can order and lease/buy, I imagine you put down some form of a deposit. What about any deals? do you have to take delivery before the deal ends (by deals I mean like X cash back/rebate, X percentage financing, if I buy?). Let's say you get the vehicle and want to confirm drive before taking delivery, and then you find something wrong with it, can you then refuse to take delivery and say, either give me my deposit back, or a diff. car? (one of the reasons I refuse to buy a car unseeen). thanks in advance!

Thanks for the options. I'll have to call the 2 dealers that are reasonably close and see what, if anything, they would be willing to do. For some reason the "fully equipped" Titanium's seem elusive compared to the Hyundai and Kia's, at least in my area. I'll ask over in the Ordering forum about some other things, to not obfuscate this thread.

This is definitely true. My 2 biggest beefs with the iBolt (and probably any suction mounted one): 1) Not easily mountable on the dash (either the dash is curved, so it doesn't hold well, or it's "patterned" and doesn't hold well). I have a Dashmat in my ' 05 Equinox and wanted to velcro it onto the top of it, but you can't remove the suction/stick thingy on the iBolt. They have an alternate method involving screws, but I'm not drilling holes in the dash. 2) If you mount on windshield, it blocks the view (depending on where you mount it), but with the large A pillars in vehicles nowadays, it's a factor. I'm constantly thinking there's a car there when it's the phone holder. Although that reminds me, that i should probably take the holder with me when doing a test drive and seeing how it "fits" on the windshield and affects the view. I was hoping the vehicles would have a spot to stash your phone nicely and still see it, but alas, they seem to assume you'll stuff it into the center console and cover it up, or stick it in some little hole/cubby somewhere. At least on the vehicles i'm looking at.

oooh, that's bad (for me). Can't buy until Nov. No 2016's in the area with what I would want (the closest I can get doesn't have the driver's package and I have the adaptive cruise as one of my "must-have"). Oh well, I guess we'll see what inventory is like come Nov. 1st. If I could get one in 3-4 weeks, that would be a diff. story but seems like if you order it's more like a 8-12 week wait and that's just not going to happen for me. But we'll see and hope that either there's 2016's that can be obtained then with what I want, or 2017's. Otherwise it'll be a Hyundai or Kia for me.

Yeah I've seen that mentioned in the reviews, but they don't list the actual radius. I know my '05 Equinox (Lemonox apparently is the correct name for it), has a horrible turning radius. I'm not sure how wide my street is, but even turning right into the neighbors driveway, and then trying to execute a left U-turn, it's impossible to use the drive and entire road width to execute the turn. Awooogah (my best impression of a cruise ship fog horn--LOL) I do suppose I could go to the dealer again and ask for another test drive and take it home (I'm not that far away) and see. not that it's going to be the deciding factor for me, but I'm filling my spreadsheet out (LOL) to be anal-retentive.

So theoretically, what would be the approx. timeframe that one could expect to see 2017 Edge's at dealers? November?

It came from the factory that way? Eeesh.

Thanks! Now for the hunt for the turning radius/diameter. LOL!

Was trying to find this out, but can't seem to find it on Ford's website: http://www.ford.com/crossovers/edge/specifications/view-all/ I see (or rather, CTRL - F in Firefox doesn't find any "turning" or "ground") Anyone know what the turning diameter, curb to curb is? And what the ground clearance is?

Interestingly enough, seems the Panoramic roofs on at least the Edge, and Kia Sorento (earlier models of the Hyundai Santa Fe Sport as well) seem prone to this problem among a few others. I guess on the 2016 Kia Sorento's, they have a fix now where they'd break or get stuck (lubrication didn't fix). But that's a very awesome video series you made!!!!!

Well I don't have an Edge yet, but I've used both the Android and now iPhone version from this company: https://ibolt.co/all-ibolt-products I dislike the vent clip ones for 2 reasons: 1) They block the vent, and if I'm needing to look/use the phone, it means I have to attach to the 2 vents I want blowing on me, not blocking one of them. 2) I also like to charge the phones (plus Carplay/AA requires a cable), so having the cable dangle all over the console doesn't appeal to me. With the iBolt, I can mount it and route the cable out of the way/site. But to each his own.

Yeah, after googling around, the 2005-2009 Equinoxes are all pretty much garbage. Well hopefully the next car will be more reliable. At least this time around, I'm not getting the first model year or re-design either. Learned my lesson the hard way. AND get extended warranty too. Looking forward to whatever I get. This site has been extremely helpful in all things Edge. There's a decent Kia forums as well. The Hyundai forums, not so much for the Sport. Mostly Santa Fe, and they are different vehicles.

I have a feeling they'll pull a Kia/Hyundai. Ford has said all their 2017 models (I think with Sync3) will ship with Carplay/AA. Given that the 2017 Edge starts production/shipping October of 2016 (?), Ford will probably have a few months after that when they finally release it for the 2016's. At least that's what Kia and Hyundai did. (about 3 months after they shipped the vehicles with it, they're releasing the map updates to get the feature in the 2016 years).

X marks the spot! Sorry, couldn't help myself.

Well, as some of you may know, I'm going to "have" to get a new car this Nov. My finalists are the Edge Titanium AWD with 302A package and driver's package, Hyundai Santa Fe Sport AWD 2.0 Turbo Ultimate, and Kia Sorento SXL. Why am I "having" to get a new car? Well, today was the last straw. See, I have a 2005 Chevy Equinox (purchased new). 5 years after I bought it, with only 40k miles on it, head gasket blew (check engine light went on, Onstar said cylinder misfire, blah blah). OK, car was out of warranty (3 years 36k miles, obviously over on both counts). $2200 later... So the dealership (service dept.) says they have a lot of these issues with the '05 and they tell people to get coolant flushed at 36k instead of what the manual says at 50k. Do a little googling and find out there's the dex coolant issue, but class action had to be settled by 2008. Obviously my car had problem AFTER that (but would've been nice to have gotten a notice about the issue). Well, last month, carrier bearing and axle went. Fortunately after the head gasket debacle, I bought an extended warranty through Carchex. Made sure it covered gaskets and wear and tear. So they covered that repair. Google again, and it's a known problem as well. Vehicle only has 72k miles on it (73.5 now I think). So I didn't want to have to get a new vehicle this year, wanted to wait until next year to save up another 7k and maybe get a 1-year old one and save some money. But the other day, I heard "water" sounds behind the dash and said, uh-oh, hope it's not the head gasket. Take it in. Yep, head gasket again. Hopefully warranty company will cover it. Oh, needs a new driveshaft as well. Warranty ends 11/30/16. I'm sure I'll have some out of pocket, but I couldn't, in good conscience, try to tell the car knowing there were problems that needed to be fixed. Now, whether I can *sell* it, is a diff. question. NADA, KBB, Edmunds say trade-in is somewhere around 3.5k-4k given the low mileage. Private party is probably 4-5k. I'm hoping Ford (and Kia/Hyundai) doesn't use aluminum engines made in China like GM did. Needless to say, will never own a GM again (had countless other issues like spare tire area filling up with water, etc.--hence my reluctance with the 2015 Edge's and the water problems). Sigh. 3 more months. Now I'm debating if I shouldn't just lease with option to buy in case I get a lemon. Running the numbers, looks like about $1300 more to lease and buy vs. buy outright. For all 3 vehicles.

Dumb question, but what about the plugins (cigarette lighter areas)? Are those retained power (on all the time)? Another dumb question: What about power windows? (My POS chevy you need to have the vehicle in ACC to power the windows, or start the car).

Yeah, like MS deciding all of a sudden that the "X" in the upper right-hand corner of stuff no longer means CLOSE. It means OPEN now. The "new" outlook.com (old hotmail) behaves that way, and they (Microsoft) also implemented that "feature" in another software of theirs. Or the fact that Windows 10 changes the touchpad scrolling behavior to be the OPPOSITE of what it is. MS decided in Win 10 that if you have a touchpad, that you need to scroll UP (on the touchpad) in order to scroll DOWN in the app/window. But if you have a mouse with wheel, you still scroll down (wheel) to scroll down on the app/window. Yeah... Whoever thought up that bright idea needs a flogging. LOL!