garycrist

It was just like at Ebay. Blue anodized strut tower connectors that will attach to the strut tower. The cross-bar that will be attached to the braces with a chromed bolt,washer,lock-washer and nut. The cross-bar is polished bright Al. Wife is at relatives today showing off my detail work. It is easy a ever to wash with the ceramic coating we did when we bought it. So next week some time I'll get one of them Round Tuits. Also a wind noise reduction post for older Edges.

I will bet none of them have ever ground "hot spots" out of a brake drum. Nor, have they ever seen a drum so bad with "spots" they had to be thrown away. Now a lot of aftermarket flywheels have a replaceable or harden areas where the friction material contacts. Some have (flywheels) have grooves (like brake rotors) to get rid if the out-gassing and prevent micro-welding or metal smearing. I have used flywheels as they can represent one of the most extremes as are brake drums. Those grooves in the rotor as well as hot-spots in drum brakes are analogous to "flat-spots" in a tire! Once one puts a flat spot in a tire, no matter the size, every time a lock-up or near lock-up occurs it will almost always hit the flat-spot thus exacerbating the problem. Lastly there just "ain't no space tween that rotor and brake pad"!

Good luck on your "New Edge" may it run for another 100K! Our 2008 Limited is going on 210K and still running but only 20K on our "New Baby" a 22 Edge ST.

It starts from "hard spots" in the pads. It is from the mixture of materials in the pad material before it is formed and fired or baked. The pad is not homogeneous, but a mixture for an example, steel wool, copper bits for heat extraction a bonding agent baked then glued or riveted to the steel backing plate. As the pads apply, heat is generated in the of a rotor. Cooling differences, will lead to "hot spots" that change the surface hardness in a particular spot leading to irregular wear patterns.

I just bought one for my 2022 ST from Canfield on EBAY. Tell them what year ans details. It will take a couple of weeks before it arrives from China via Hong Kong. You will need 4 extra bolts , washers and lock-washers. They are metric. When the parts store opens Monday, I'll go said parts! It looks like the passenger side looks to be the funnest, so I'll start there 1st. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssn=kf1386&store_name=carfieldenterprisestrutbar&_oac=1&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l161211

All I meant was I turned off the car and restarted it!

I had mine glitch too. I did a <Ctrl> <Alt> <Delete> on my Sync.😉 I restarted the ST...

Probably "Chocolate Milk-Shake Syndrome" like the "China Syndrome" only, it's the engine melt down. It's probably the water pump. Pull the oil cap on look for the signs. Is the coolant level up? What is the oil level too? Do all of that before you do anything. Be prepared for a divorce of either Edge or $$$$.

I am getting ready for my 2022 Edge ST AWD 20K service. I was looking for the dip-stick but I can't find it? I believe this is it but, it looks like a vent. Is this it? This is peering down with radiator shield at the bottom, Air-box top right, looking at top of the tranny.

Adding to the topic, I see a member who has no heat below 2K RPM. Back in the early 80's I took to learning all I could about the 5.7L GM diesels. I even learned how to rebuild Rosa pumps or the high pressure pump and 8 spider legs. The shop behind me specialized in replacing those diesel engines with gasoline motors. He had a pile of engines and he gave me all I wanted! But, back to the heating issue. I would have clients call and tell me their heaters quit working but, they ignored it because the A/C was needed but, now that it's getting cold, bla bla bla. I told them they would need head gaskets and it would run $XXX. The next obvious question would be as you know, is "Well how in the hell would YOU KNOW as you haven't even looked at the car yet"!!! Usually they would call back stating they took it somewhere else and wanted so much more bla bla bla.🤣 The neat thing about the 5.7 diesel was the 1980 X block. It had the big main bearing journals, but most importantly, it could be bored .250 inch. Warren Johnson Pro Stock, used those blocks in his big cubic inch Thumpers. AHHH the fun! By mixing and matching different parts, the late model heads, cam etc. I built a monster diesel motor for my Dad. We put that into a Burgundy Olds 98 with crushed velvet seats. What a living room. You could do burn-out with the thing! On a run from Albuquerque to Oklahoma City cruising about 85 he got 27 MPG!

There sure is a lot of smart as well as helpful people here too. What are you going to buy?

The funniest part of the muscle cars of the 60's and 70's is they didn't stop, could not corner worth a diddly, brakes were for the faint of heart and only an AM radio. Now one may play tunes in a climate controlled environment with heated/cooled seats and outrun most of those fast cars of the day, all in our STs.

210K miles on my '08 Edge, it still has the original belts, hoses,starter and alternator and running strong. I believe the newer starters use permanent magnets rather than field windings.

The funnies things during that time, was run-on. Shut the key off, go inside and eat come back out and the car was still running. I guess it was one of those FREE options. At least it cut down on starter replacement. When I moved to Cali one could not De-carbon them like we used to. I once had a big block Ford that ran-on no matter what I did. I even set the idle down to about 400ish RPM. It would still run-on, with the best solution to shut it down in Drive, most of the time!

Fist look at the car battery. A simple red wire attached to the + terminal. (EASY) Next pull the fuse cover above your left knee. Give a peek to see if there is a device there. It will be piggy-backed to the OBD2 port. While you are there, take a flashlight and inspect the OBD2 port for an extra small wire that looks out of place. If you find a small encased wire set coming from the OBD2 port trace it to a tracker. Let me know if you need more.... Gary

I have been a Ford guy since my 1st. car a burgundy 63, I've been hooked. When I worked at a L/M dealer in the mid 70's when all of the glob-on emission were added. Gas mileage became terrible, especially in 385 series engines or 429s and 460s. Part of the "Ford approved service procedure" aka. warranty. (I get paid) was to put on a 1/10 gallon glass jug that attached to the driver's rolled down window and the window channel. I twisted a valve and it filled up the container to a measured mark. It went to the carb and when that jug went empty the car died. What a terrible job, driving in an air-conditioned Lincoln during the Summer! From that experience I have always beat everyone in their own vehicle on gas mileage. Oh yes, back to the big blocks. As we were out in the country, we would take them out and pour 1/2 to 1 gallon of ATF through the carb to de-carbon them. What a cloud it would make, even better that a C-4 modulator rupturing! After driving them around for a bit, they would clear up and not ping so bad with the crummy fuel we had back the,

3d. Party BOA. Used. The dealers now use these devices to track the customers. Only the GPS markers and cellphone bursts. None were connected to kill the car. The excuse is for oil-change reminders and a litany of other excuses. One was Lojack the other was IKON Technologies. They tried to up me by $5600 over the leader price! 🤣 The Lojack wiring was fresh and the box had no dust it was connected directly to the battery with only the hot and ground. The IKON was plugged into the OBD2 port with a jumper wire into the dash. None of the extra functions were hooked-up thus some of the wires were clipped to the Lojack. I believe the IKON is only powered by the OBD2 port. I worked in dealerships for years. I've seen many a trick these guys do. Most of them will lie, cheat and even rape their mothers for a sale. The odds are with them too for the most part! IIRC the average buyer only visits less than 2 dealers for a purchase! It was WE IN THE BACK that received holy hell because the vehicle did not do what the salesman said. https://ikontechnologies.com/

Also, coke the turbos! Even my wife lets it idle for 2 minutes to cool down and un-spool the turbos.

It would show a <CHECK PARKING AID>. Then we would reset.

I've watched several people bring in hand written contemporaneous notebooks of all things that went into their cars, even fill-ups with mileage notations. Those things were GOLD back then for resale rather than the auction. Usually they were cleaner no matter the odometer. I watched a dealer drop $10,000 off a Shelby 500 after the deal was set, just because he saw the log-book the customer was going to take with him!

After replacing the speaker it is FIXED. IIRC Forescan read the failure as the "Parking Aid Speaker". As shown in the above pictures, the speaker the black round disc in the bottom, is held in by 2 push pins. They will be pried from the body with one's pry bars(s). The opening is big enough to fit my 72 YO hands between the panel and body. If one drops the speaker, fear not as the wire holding the speaker is attached the the body so it will not drop far. There is a small push tab to depress to remove the wiring harness from the speaker. Install the new speaker into the speaker socket. If one desires the speaker may be reattached or stuff behind the panel away from the seat belt. FIXED! It took 10-15 minutes and I am slow. GL OM Gary DE KI6FG

I had that on my 08 but, it was the front I must have misread. I ended up replacing the front squirters. I have sometimes in the past, passed a small piece of stripped copper wire laying around into the holes while someone applies the washer.. Sometimes build up or gunk gets moved up and plugs the jets.

Probably the pump if all of the fuses are good. If the pump, then the front inner fender cover will get to be removed. Not too bad of a job with a clip puller

Someone around you might have a fob clone machine. Keep those fobs protected with a Faraday Device or RF proof device. Examples are wrapped tightly Al foil or a neat little RF proof pouch. Once into the car, they can clone a key via OBD2 port.

Yes I'd love to do Ortega with this beast! Then 39, 17 @ Santa Cruz. I am only on the 3rd. payment so I've got to be a little easy. Besides the bride was with me. ha ha