TourGuide

This issue - which seems to impact a range of ecoboost motors - is the result of design flaws with the block. My wife bought an escape with the 1.5 in it and this motor has had 2 short blocks replaced (1 by us - under warranty) and a new head - also under warranty. I have already started talking to her about making a decision about that car before the esp runs out.

Unfortunately decontenting is part of the industry. I had heard mention of this being done - the hands free lift gate delete - but I think it was a mistake on Ford's part. I once bought a Buick Enclave and found that the light in the glove box was deleted in my model year - I was unhappy about that too. I was able to fix that issue - so it may be possible to add your hands free liftgate back in - but likely it will cost you some. Rotten luck I am afraid.

I am assuming you will be replacing the set of 4 with these. https://www.nokiantires.com/all-weather-tires/nokian-tyres-remedy-wrg5/ I have the wrg4s on our escape and they are the best all weather tires I have ever driven on. Had them on 3 years now and they are still quiet and have plenty of tread remaining. I expect to get more than 60k out of them.

I believe that when defrost runs that the ac is activated at the same time in order to dry the air. This may explain why start stop doesn't activate with the defrost as an ac load is perhaps one of the things that deactivates the function.

Have you tested the battery - with a legitimate battery tester? I mean one that will report out to you the actual cca of your battery as it currently is? If not - it may be that your battery is perfectly capable of starting your car - but may not be capable of carrying our the start/stop function it was intended to perform. My dealership reported to me that my battery was low on cca - but before this I had noted that the start stop would happen intermittently. I tested my battery and found it had 390 cca - so I replaced the battery - and reset it using the process you described - as well as resetting through my scan tool. My start/stop function has returned with the new battery and the reset. Perhaps what you have is a weak battery in both cases?

Is this an FWD or AWD vehicle? This is something the PTU will do out the vent tube when the oil is cooked and the unit is about to fail.

Hmm - it never occurred to me that the bms may be fibbing. I thought that was the domain of my local dealership service department almost exclusively. I got some feedback about my battery cca at my most recent oil change (which was included in my purchase - don't get me started there) so I put the battery on my tester - and low and behold it was low - at the cca stated. So my battery at least was on the way out. I have heard from some ford techs that it also matters where you hook up to charge (outside the bms sensor) so that the change is registered by the sensor. I do suppose that resetting the sensor would effectively accomplish the same thing as long as the battery was brought up to charge.

Also turned into an Amsoil acolyte as I purchased my 'annual membership' so I can get the discount. Just when I thought I was done with Sam's Club - Costco membership 🤷‍♂️ they get me with a great product. Also - the battery swap really drove home why you need a well maintained battery to me. My start-stop function has returned to normal - so there is that.

Replaced the original battery with a new AGM and completed the bms reset - which I did using both the light flash/brake and also with my scan tool. I was down to about 390 cca. I managed to also drop a 7mm socket down the grill shroud. It did not kindly drop through to the garage floor - instead it plinko-style made it's way down into the shielding in the engine compartment. No amount of looking with my scope turned it up - the thing is down there somewhere. I hope it won't turn into a projectile at some point. I also installed a JL oil separator. That was easy enough but managed to throw a CEL when I forgot to plug in the MAF sensor. So that was my pants-brick moment there. I wish the socket were as easily solved as that was. Now I need a soda.

Thanks a ton Haz. Appreciate what you do here for us!

Interesting - it makes me wonder if your 15 fusion didn't have the bms system on it. I have followed the person who is shown in this source video in the past. He does know his mechanic stuff - so 🤷‍♂️

I will add that the service procedure recommendeds that you hook up the scan tool (which I don't have a Ford scan tool) to perform the reset. I would hazard a guess that techs at the dealership are using this instead of wading through 16 menus to get the function punched in on the scanner. Then you get charged.5 or an hour or so of labor for about a 15 second procedure. That is about $250.00 for an hour around my local dealership.

The battery monitoring system keeps track of the battery voltage and to my understanding - regulates the amount of power going to the vehicle systems. I'm replacing my battery and so instead of the old and bad battery - I'll have a new one with full voltage capability - and this all my subsystems can operate at peak capabilities - instead of operating at a reduced performance spec to keep things running.

This is a fairly simple process and important for various reasons. No scan tool or calibration needed that I can see. 1. With the vehicle in accessory power mode - flash high beams 5 times in a row. 2. Tap the brakes 3 times. 3. Done. Source: Youtube video link. Of course - the dealership would also be happy to invite you for a visit and pay them a small fee to hook up their scan tool and perform the reset - but your choice is your choice. Have a great day! Further in the replies to this thread - the venerable Haz chimed in with more detail about BMS. This quickie reset applies to vehicles that will have the battery replaced with a new unit. After this thread mostly played out - I went out and purchased a bidirectional scan tool - so I have another method to perform this reset among other functions. Cheers all - and cheers to Haz!

When I bought my 19 the hood would shake noticeably at highway speed and around town over bumps. After adjusting it is better but it still will do this to my eye even at max adjustment of these bumpers. I have looked at the clearance on the hood closure and the fitment - it appears that on mine - adjusting the hood hinges won't be possible without messing something else up - so I have got what I have got. Mine is better after tweaking - but probably won't ever be fully solid.

The OE blades will sometimes do this too. I haven't taken the time to adjust it - but if you have a puller - you can adjust the sweep to avoid this. I think I notice this at highway speeds - but around town driving it works fine.

I have done an upgrade from a sync2 system to a 3. It seems that being a sync system may limit your upgrade options to what you have done so far - but it may be worth inquiring about. Here is a link to an outfit I used - I found them to be pretty responsive to questions and was happy with the product they delivered. https://www.4dtech.com/16-ford-edge-navigation-upgrade-for-sync-3/

You'll need to be more specific if you want feedback.

Recalls kick in when someone is going to die - basically. Sad but it has been repeatedly shown to be truth in my observation.

I know and have mostly used the motorcraft beam wipers for quite a while, but I've had to replace these inside a year the last few replacements. Searching for a better alternative I saw that project farm did a look at different blades and found bosch icons came out on top. My experience so far has been that they are indeed better than the motorcraft blades. You could make a value a case for increased cost but I just find the bosch is a better blade period - cost as an aside.

Have you ever lifted all 4 wheels on the Edge to jack stands Cerberus?

Hmm - Looking more closely at the documents Haz provided about the system - it seems there is a separate circulation pump for the ptu cooler - as there is a service procedure document for the replacement. It is plumbed through the radiator though - as I had referenced that myself earlier. I know there will be disagreement on this forum about it - but given the operating conditions - the only ways I can see to increase the reliability of this system would be - add a drain plug to facilitate a proper spill and fill - wrap the cat and use a turbo blanket to reduce the heat soak - and use a better (and here is the controversy) fluid - such as the lightweight shockproof stuff from red line. It is really THE fatal flaw for some iterations of this setup that a drain plug is missing. In those cases the service procedure is insane - and I am not talking about the jobber solution of evacuate with a pump and refill - that is a less than ideal service.

Yesterday I had the driver and passenger side windows tinted 15% to match the backs. Happy with the results. She is a dirty girl right now - so I have to clean her up before pictures.

Wow - what a difference in that mount! I call that a nice upgrade!

Yes - it is all plumbed through the radiator - so it should all (most likely) be run by the same circulation pump. This is a system they have implemented in really hot climates. The design in general has some significant weaknesses - one of which is oil capacity - and THAT will get no amount of improvement as it exists without increasing the reservoir.