lildisco

Eeeeeh, what type of mechanics were they? Oil changers? The side effects of coking have been seen on many different vehicles. Audi's, Ford, Volkswagen, etc. Coking is an issue with Direct Injection as there is no 'recommended' way to clean the intake valves. The back side of the valves catch all the oil & 'junk' spit out from the pcv system & then get baked onto the back of the valve. Using a Top Tier gas station is DEFINITELY recommended. I do think that the Top Tier term isn't as 'elite' as it used to be,but the benefits of using a Top Tier gas station has been proven. A catch can isn't going to void your warranty. If purchased from a reputable source (not ebay knockoffs), installed & mounted properly, the can shouldn't even be noticed by the average person. Also, they have to PROVE that the catch caused something to fail. Like for example, the sun roof failed to open, welp you have a catch can installed, sorry, your warranty is voided. Nope, isn't going to happen. Having said that, I've seen warranties voided before, but it was quite obvious that the component in question did cause a particular part to fail. The occasional "Italian Tune Up" also doesn't hurt, but you have to realize that these ecoboost turbos are being used a lot more than what you might think. Pretty much every take off (when not driving like a granny) you're in boost. Going up a hill, you're in boost. Passing someone, yep, you guessed it, in boost. These smaller engines with turbos work harder because they're designed to. It's just that pesky PVC & emission systems that regurgitate all that nasty stuff back into the intake to be burned off & it gets baked onto the intake valves. Changing your oil before the car recommends it OR around 5,000-7,000 miles also helps as also with Direct Injection, there's oil dilution. Some unburnt fuel makes it to the oil with compounds with the other coking issues. Fresh oil, preferably a reputable company such as Mobil 1,also keeps things 'fresh & clean(er)'. What all of this boils down to is personal preference. If you plan on keeping the car for years passed the factory warranty, i would recommend installing a catch can. If you're going to trade it in at or around the time the warranty expires, then i wouldn't worry about installing one. I had a friend trade in her 2.0 Ecoboost Escape around 60,000 miles because it was stuttering under light acceleration & would hesitate on take offs. Both known issues related to coking. She didn't want to pay to have the intake taken apart & the intake valves cleaned. I'm 99% certain that the dealership cleaned up the exterior & sent it out to be sold within a week & didn't address those issues. The issues are there, it's up to you on how you want to proceed.

My lugs are torqued to ~95 ft/lbs, probably at 100. I've had 0 issues with vibration or wheel wobble. 165ft/lbs seems very excessive. I use a torque stick on my impact & then a torque wrench to get around 95 ft/lbs. Re checked after a few hundred miles, still at/above 95 ft/lbs. The stock chrome lugs did bend/flatten out the when i tried to torque them down with a impact. Had to pound a socket on with a Dead Blow hammer & replaced with an aftermarket brand. Have 0 issues with them. 2016 SEL FWD with Chrome 18's.(Wife loves them,i HATE them,you know how it is)

You can save POI's along your route. The Nav System will automatically route you to the fastest route, unless you choose differently in its settings. Such as avoiding tolls, ferries, & highways. I don't think there's a way to program a specific way, unless you program way points/stops prior to leaving. To my knowledge, the Nav System can save the address, not necessarily the route, but you can change the route by adding way points/stops. To knowledge, there is no way to export the route to a thumb drive/laptop.

They wanted $100 to change the cabin air filter & engine air filter in my mom's 2012 fusion. Both can be had for under $25 with Motorcraft parts on Amazon. $75 to install 2 components that take less than 5 minutes to change out total. Can't remember if it requires tools to pop open the cabin air filter or not, but i don't think so.

I believe that Ford used Low friction rings for better fuel economy, which allows oil to get passed the rings much easier. I've had several people who had ecoboosts with over 50,000 miles begin to experience hesitation & stuttering on take offs. Ford doesn't want to admit that there is a problem with Direct Injection & have to pay for valve cleaning as, to my knowledge, haven't come up with a solution for this yet.

$900 USD is quite high. I forget the exact numbers, but i want to say that i was under $500 including installation. I find that i accumulate more in the winter than in the summer months. Between my wife & i, we don't usually drive like a-holes, so maybe that's why we don't accumulate much. My CX7 2.3L Direct Injection picks up A LOT of blow by & junk, but i tend to drive like an a-hole driving it, but it's 'quick' to me.

Several threads on this: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/17376-direct-injection-and-carbon-buildup/?fromsearch=1 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22636-2016-edge-sport-catch-can-installed/?fromsearch=1 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22063-oil-catch-can-on-the-20l-ecoboost/?fromsearch=1 Tuned or not, blow by, coking, carbon build up are issues with direct injection. A oil catch can will reduce the effects of this. Constant flogging with exasperate the effects of the above issues.

2.0 Has more TQ than the 3.5, the 3.5 has more HP than the 2.0. 2.0 has 245 bhp @5500 & 275 lb·ft @3000 & the 3.5 has 280 bhp @6500 & 250 lb·ft @4000. Both have their 'issue's, 3.5 has the throttle body issues, 2.0 has coking issues. If you're going to tow a lot, i'd look into the 3.5, but the 2.0 can tow as well, just you'll be in boost more. You'd have to see which one suits your lifestyle.

I can confirm that the above process DOES NOT work with my Winter Wheels (OEM Wheels & Tires, Aftermarket TPMS from Discount Tire). I swapped over to the winter wheels last night & I could get into the program portion listed above, but the 1st TPMS (LF) would not trigger. I got into FORScan & saw that there's a TPMS Procedure & tried that & it still didn't work. I did a reset of the Body Control Module (The same area that the TPMS Procedure is located) & took it for a drive. Within 10-15 minutes of driving, the new TPMS were learned. I then tried the TPMS Procedure in FORScan & it DID NOT work again. I then turned the car off for the night. Woke up & checked it this morning & the TPMS were learned this morning. Really weird that my trigger tool worked with my OEM wheels & TPMS, but not the after market ones. Either way, this was MUCH easier this year, than last year.

be very careful & use a exacto knife & big slices of painters tape & i use plasti-dip. I've painted many emblems like this with very good results. It's very tedious, but it's a lot better than having the shiny chrome.

The projectors are designed for a halogen bulb with a similar connector to the H9. You're not going to melt your wiring or have any issues with the dealer. If you're concerned & have done the swap, simply swap out the bulbs before any dealer visit. I've driven many consecutive hours at night with the lights on & have never smelled any burning electronic smell or melted the projector. This mod will give you more usable light & cost under $30. If you wanted to 'play it safe' you can buy something similar to Silver Stars that would give you more light over stock as the stock ones are Long Life. Some of your concerns were brought up in this thread: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21618-2016-edge-sel-dim-headlights/?fromsearch=1

OEM spec is Long Life Bulbs. If you just change the buld to a regular bulb, you would notice a difference. The best bang for you buck is going to be a conversion from H11 to the H9. Main reasoning is for the coated tip on the H11's, the H9's don't have this. You get more usable light & don't effect your wiring or blind people with a HID conversion (or yourself with reflections in a projector housing). I've ran this setup for over 2 years without an issue. It just takes a slight modification on 1 of the tabs to complete & you're good to go. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/150621-how-headlight-bulb-conversion-h11-h9-9005-9011-a.html

No one here ever said paddle shifters solve everything. If you read my post, with spirited driving, both your hands on the wheel is much safer than one on the wheel & one on the shifter. I don't consider turning from a stop sign or a light spirited driving. A manual transmission is going to give more power & acceleration than a automatic (things are getting better) BUT, how many Edge's made for the US Market have a manual trans? The American car market is geared towards Automatic Transmissions more so than manuals because most people don't want to learn to drive a manual. If you want to get real technical, you should always try to do your shifting, accelerating, braking in the straightest line possible. That way, it doesn't upset the vehicle with jerks or potential lock ups or wheel spins. Granted, LSD's will help with acceleration to put more power down than an open differential. I've never said that paddle shifters would replace a manual transmission, but for the occasional 'spirited drive' they work fine. I'd almost bet to say that over 98% of all Edge's sold never go into Sport or manual mode. A manual trans Edge would be nice to have, but they wouldn't sell enough in the US Market to justify their production costs. Paddle shifters or shifters with an up or down switch on them basically replace the older style shifters with, 1,2,D & OD. If these weren't in placr, there wouldn't be a way to manually select these gears. Again, 98%+ of these things produced will never be used, but it's there just incase.

Both hands on the wheel is much safer than one on the shifter & one on the wheel. It's also much more comfortable for 'spirited' driving as you can downshift & upshift without taking your hands off the wheel. I've driven a manual for years & can relate, but you're talking about a lot of work & it may not even 'work' when completed because of all the electronics involved (fooling the computer & safety features, etc). Wish you luck, but i don't think it's economically feasible & more hazardous than the stock paddle shifters.

You should have paddle shifters on the steering wheel for this. No need to change the shifter

Sounds more like the 2.2 update & not the 2.3 update

Do a continuity test on the wire you think is the ground to the chasis. Should let you know if it is the ground or not

This reminds me of something a Driving Instructor told me once. Who can stop faster a Tractor Trailer or a BMW M3? The answer is the one who is paying attention. Apparently, his son wasn't paying attention in the M3 & rear-ended a Tractor Trailer. Always pay attention to your surroundings. Problem is now-a-days, vehicles are so comfortable, quiet & have so much technology, that people really forget what they're doing. I was just talking to a co-worker about autonomous vehicles & how for 99% of drivers would be wonderful. (Think about how many accidents, slow downs, traffic jams could be avoided if the human factor was virtually eliminated). I for one, couldn't stand autonomous cars, mainly because i like to drive. But, the vast majority of people 'cannot drive'. I partially think of their training, if any, & the ease of driving these newer vehicles, people don't realize the dangers of driving anymore.

Fuel economy depends on the driver. When my wife is the primary driver, she gets around 21-22mpg & when I'm the primary driver i get around 25-26mpg in the same conditions. I get 28-30mpg on the highway & she usually gets 25-27. Throttle response is drastically improved when in Sport Mode when accelerating normally. You won't see much of a difference at WOT, except it won't go into Over Drive. When you're making boost, your fuel economy will suffer. OEM tires are geared towards fuel economy & not performance. The non-Sport Edges are more of a passenger vehicle A-B transportation. Sounds like you're an aggressive driver & sounds like you need an Edge Sport or another vehicle geared towards your driving style. People need to understand that you need to adjust your driving style to get the most out of the ecoboost's. You can't cruise at 80+ mph on the highway & expect to get 30+ mpg. You also can't wail on it off the line every time you take off & expect to get 25+mpg. Since your car is turbo'd, you're going to use more fuel while you're making boost in comparison to another Naturally Aspirated in the same category. The Ecoboosts shine when you're up to speed & you don't need to speed up. Constant speed ups & take offs kill mpg's in general, but more so in Forced Induction vehicles because more fuel is needed when in boost. Adjust your driving style or deal with the consequences.

I'm still a mod over on Focus Fanatics, lol. We've had our Edge for a little over a year & a 1/2 now & really enjoy it. The stock Halogen headlights were one of the 1st things to go, followed by the horrendous amounts of brake dust (chrome wheels the wife had to have), plus some, LED touches inside & some modifications with FORScan. Overall good purchase imo. Sync 3 & Android Auto is pretty good combination too. I wouldn't consider the Edge a big vehicle. It's kinda on the same lines as a fusion. Ford definitely offers bigger vehicles too Enjoy the Edge! Very comfy & quiet with a lot of creature comforts.

Try Sport Mode when taking off from a stand still. Really quickens the throttle response. You can switch back to drive when you're up to speed

I know when my winter wheels for 1st installed on my 2016 SEL, it would emit an auditable alarm at least once, but sometimes would take around 50-100 miles to realize that there was a different tpms there. I had to manually exit the alert on the display every time i start the car & the light would stay on. I also had to do a tpms learn feature & tpms trigger tool for the vehicle to recognize the new winter wheels. I'd look for a different oem wheels/tires that have them in it. I paid around $600 for mine last year. May be helpful: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/21556-2016-sel-winter-wheels/?fromsearch=1

This is accurate

Invest in a OBD2 reader & FORScan

Doesn't mention anything about the DryFlow style. That way there's no oils to worry about to oil/dirty up the MAF or intake. I'm not looking for a performance increase or mpg increase (either would be nice if there were no decrease in either). I'm looking for a reusable, no oil type filter,mainly for cost savings. I thought that MacT was using something similar on his Edge & went like 40,000 before he cleaned the filter.