lildisco

Never cut 1 in 1/2 at the bushing, but it'd imagine that its some sort of mechanism that allows that bolt to swivel a little bit as you usually need an allen key to remove it.

sway bar endlinks

Change battery & check if problem is fixed. With everything being sensitive to battery voltage, that's where i would start. Yes, the vehicle is running, but doesn't mean that the battery can support running electronics. There's also a parameter in forscan than resets the battery parameters. Meaning, when the battery is replaced, you reset this so the ecu knows you have a new battery & it changes the charging parameters & whatnot.

All gas isn't created equal. Look for top tier gas stations. Make sure your current on oil changes. How many miles are on the car? If higher, closer to 100,000,id change your plugs. Actually, I'd change them out anyways because you don't know how the other person drove. Another thing would be to try resetting the ecu. Just disconnect the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes. Hook it up then let it idle for a few minutes & then drive like normal. The ecu is a learning ecu. If it hasn't been reset since you bought it, it probably has thousands of miles learned from the previous owner(s). Once it learns your driving style, shift points, etc., you should she a few more mpg's. Especially if you're all highway & drive UNDER 70 - 75 mph. Biggest thing is driving style. Medium to hard accelerations are going to be in boost. Boost = more fuel = bag mpg's. Crusing above 70-75 is going to be in boost. But if you cover the basics as i said or stated above, you should see some sort of improvement

It could be a HD Radio thing. I've never heard 1 in my area. I know that they're around, just i live so far from a major city that i don't think i get good reception.

Similar to this minus the oil cap

My 2.0 doesn't sound nearly as loud as that, but to each their own. It usually goes away after a few seconds. I know that when the oil is lower than the full hole, it makes the noises like what you have. Has nothing to do with the Turbo. You only have 1 turbo btw. The only twin turbo edge is the ST & the 2nd gen Sports. You have a twin scroll turbo. Completely different than a twin turbo set up. The only time the turbo really spools up is when you're making boost & you have to be driving to do that. It kinda 'free wheels' when you're not spooling up the turbo making boost, especially at idle. I know multiple people with 2.0's, 2.3's, 6.0's & 7.3's, etc., with turbo's & have never heard of the turbo(s) spooling up at idle or startup. I have heard them kinda air themselves down after the engine is off & that's only been with the 7.3's & 6.0's, never with a 4 cylinder turbo.

Has the car sat overnight? The 2.0 Ecoboost takes some time to get all the oil back to pan. Also, unless they changed it... The full line is the 2nd hole, not the top of lines on the dipstick

Better off to check the oil level after the car has sat overnight. Bet you're a little low.

All i get

Basically, you're going to cut/splice or add into the line going from the engine block to the intake manifold. You basically want to put it in between the engine block & intake manifold. The length of the lines going to the catch can doesn't really matter, so that you can mount it anywhere you have the space. The purpose of the 3 line system is to also catch blow by during boost & vacuum.

This may be helpful: Clicky Clicky

Your paint code should be on the sticker on the drivers side door

Several of us have been waiting since 2016 or earlier for map updates. They haven't come. Only way would be through a Ford Dealer or through here: https://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD

If you're interested in my brake swap, here's what i did: Clicky Clicky Car is doing fine, swapped out the rear rotors with the same style that are on the front, Centric Premium Rotors. From Centric's website: Centric premium rotors utilize an Electrocoating finish that provides long lasting corrosion protection. E-coating is a superior electro-statically applied finish designed to withstand 400 hours of salt water exposure without rusting. Phosphate finishes utilized by other manufacturers provide only minimal protection from the elements; these finishes are generally only effective for the shipping and storage portion of a rotor’s life. The addition of heat and moisture eliminates the effectiveness of phosphate finishes resulting in immediate corrosion once installed in the vehicle.

If those pic are of the rear caliper, I'm so glad i painted mine. I've changed all 4 corners out on my '16 SEL & didn't run into any problems. Went with Centric Rotors with the special black coating to keep the rust & flaking down.

Traction control can be disabled in the left side of your menu, i believe under settings. There's also a display on the instrument cluster that shows you how much power is being sent the rear wheels. I would also look to see what tires you have. If you have High Performance summer tires, then your winter traction will be next to nothing. My bet would have been traction control was going crazy because of the snow/ice under your car. There should have been a dash light indicator if abs/traction control was kicking in. If you have it, i would suggest reading the owners manual & get more familiar with your vehicle. If not available, you might be able to download a copy from fordowner.com

I've had something similar with my 2.0 Ecoboost if the oil isn't to the full mark. It usually would only last for a few seconds. The oil mark on the 2.0 Ecoboost is the top hole, not the line. Not sure if the 2.7 is similar or not

XTRA, that's horrible. I don't know what to say, except that i hope that everyone affected is evacuated safely. Property can be replaced. On a much lighter note, i reluctantly swapped over to my winter wheels today after several counties decided to coat the roads with salt like there's an endless supply ? Also added a good'ol coat of fluid film on the underbody. Ran out of fluid film & had to order more. Will get the doors, hinges & other areas later in the week.

Depending on the severity of the damage, i would get an alignment. Light curb rash usually doesn't require an alignment, but if she did enough damage to warrant a WHEEL replacement, then I would DEFINITELY get an alignment to cover all the bases. These newer vehicles are so tight within their specs, a big curb hit could knock it out of spec (which can also be said for pretty much every vehicle). I'd plan on, at minimum & based solely on your description, 1 wheel replace & 4 wheel alignment. You may possibly need 2 new front tires, depending on the severity of the damage, which a tire shop should be able to tell you whether or not you need one.

Says that they sucked it out & refilled. I'd check fluid with a white zip tie to co firm new fluid in there.

Do you have a voltage tester? See what the battery is doing when the vehicle is running? Should be around 14 volts running & around 12 volts not running. Obviously it isn't going to test amperage, but it 'almost' sounds like the motor for the power lift gate isn't working, weather it's not got enough power or the motor is bad. When you hit the button by the steering wheel & the hazards flash, that usually indicates that the lift gate should open, does on mine. Do you hear like a gear turning when you open & close the lift gate manually? I can usually hear it when it's opening & closing manually or automatically. It's not like the typical 'hissing' noise from the struts when you open or close the lift gate. BUT, i've heard if you slam the lift gate down too hard or force it to open or close, this could damage the gears in the lift motor. Whether or not this is true, i don't know. If all else fails, i would maybe try to pull the Negative Battery cable off for 5 minutes or so & reset the computer & things & see if that fixes it. IF that doesn't work & your car is still under warranty, it's off to the dealer.

True, lol. Based on your driving style, i'd not go too much over 5,000 miles between oil changes. If you're mostly highway cruising, you could probably stretch it another 1,000 miles or so, but if you're mostly in stop & go city traffic, i wouldn't go above 5,000 miles.

Mact's stuff is based on a 3.5V6 & not the 2.0, but yes, should have been done a long time ago. I use Mobil 1 & a motorcraft filter. You can can a motorcraft filter from Walmart for under $5 & 6qts of mobil 1 for under $35,so roughly $40 an oil change. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/24236-diy-oil-changes/?fromsearch=1