chefduane

What enigma mentions is exactly what I went through when I bought my '11 Limited AWD in Sept. Had 65k miles on it - about average. I have completed a coolant flush/fill, ATF drain/refill, brake fluid suction/refill, PS fluid suction/refill and will soon be doing a PTU lube oil suction/refill. Not sure if I am going to do that one myself or have my shop do it. Keep an eye on the PTU as any leakage needs to be addressed asap. Engine oil is not due for a change until 71k miles - coming up soon. I don't know what oil it has in it now, but I am going to do it with Mobil-1 5w-20 Hi Mileage full syn and a Mobil-1 Extended Performance filter. I am also going to install a Fumoto Qwik Valve (had one on my Explorer and loved it.) You might also check the cabin air filter, and the engine air filter. RDU (aka differential) on the AWD calls for a drain/refill at 100k so that'll be a while. Congrats on the new ride! It's really a fantastic automobile.

Did a drain/fill on the transaxle today. 5 quarts total of Mercon LV. Fluid was still fairly red but certainly not as red as new ATF. Looks good now but I'm going to keep an eye on it and maybe do it again in a few weeks. Planning a 1800 trip in mid-March.

I like to flush/drain/fill all fluids whenever I buy a used car. Got my '11 Ltd AWD a few months ago and finally got around to doing the PS fluid. I used MacT's method of sucking it out with a turkey baster, refill with new, drive around, repeat until fluid is nice and red. I must say that my fluid was much more brown that I thought it would be. The car has about 65k miles on it and I am sure that the fluid had never been changed, so I am glad I did it. This weekend is ATF then PTU.

500 miles! I'm jealous. I would think that running a non-top tier tank through once in a while shouldn't be that big a deal. Probably best to also add a bottle of Techron when you do it, tho. I have heard from a number of sources that Techron is the truly only effective additive. The rest are snake oil. (My dad swore by Marvel Mystery oil in the tank once in a while.) But that brings up a question: Would filling up with a non-top tier gas AND adding a bottle of Techron be equivalent to just filling up with Chevron in the first place? I guess that depends on what additives the non-top tier supplier adds to their gas in the first place, eh? What about using a top tier supplier (like a Costco) and also tossing in a bottle of Techron once in a while? Questions, questions....

Howdy from Texas! Both the Mustang an Edge are right hand drive? Very cool. Would really be popular here in the states!

That's exactly the same procedure I had to follow with my '72 Maverick.

Manual schmanual. I ain't lookin' in no stinking manual!! (Just kidding...) I will do that for an in depth description, but your info was very helpful. Yes, I do have PRNDM with the shift buttons. Thanks! (PS: I have been in a hard cast on my right ankle for about a month and have not driven in that time, and I've been a lazy ass about going to the garage. And my wife's been driving the Edge instead of her Trailblazer while I'm rehabbing. <I could probably come up with a few more excuses for not RTFM if needed.>)

My '11 AWD Limited has a manual shift mode option. I have searched various sites looking for a simple explanation of how it works, with limited luck. I know its not like a paddle shift. Is I like dropping down into 2nd or low on a column shifter? I admit that I have not attempted to use manual shift, or experimented with it, as just leaving the trans in 'drive' seems to meet my driving needs. (Pretty flat here in DFW.) I do plan on driving to the E. Tn. Smoky Mtns in March and would like to understand how to use manual mode before we go. Thanks for any info! Sorry if this is posted in the wrong forum. Mods may move as necessary.

Here in DFW I had someone remove my catalytic converter permanently. I was in a not-so-nice area of town and some meth-head tweaker sawzalled it out to get the precious metals inside and get their next fix. Removal was free but install of a new one was a few $$$.

MacT, my 2011 Limited has a Hobbs? Is that part of the MFT software? Never knew this was available! Very cool. I gotta' find that. Thanks!

..never seen one on a lawn mower!

Hobbs Meter aka 'the Hobbs' in an aircraft is what an hour meter is called. All maintenance is tied to airframe and engine hours. I actually thought about how to wire it up in a vehicle and mount it, but too much trouble for what its worth.

Whered is irrevelent. As long as you gitterdun.

Well, I went by Costco today to pick up a few things (I'm a member) and also filled up. The pump actually had a sticker on it that says "Top Tier Supplier." Looks like Costco gets all my gas purchases from now on. Thanks all, for the info!

Ok, well, now you've started me thinking (very dangerous). I typically buy gas at Sam's or the local Wal Mart (Murphy) because it was the cheapest. My mindset has been the typical "gas is gas" thinking. But I have been doing some reading on this top-tier gas thing (thinking it was mostly marketing hype) but now am being persuaded by facts and first person testimony (go figure!). There is a Costco close to me so I may start buying gas there as it is noted as a top-tier supplier. Live and learn.

Full synthetic Mobil-1 5w-20 Extended Performance and a Mobil-1 EP Filter (Ford FL500S OEM replacement) for me. 5k mile intervals. I do my own oil+filter changes and run an AEM Dryflow air filter that I clean at each interval. Whatever extra I spend on the oil+filter I save by doing it myself. Is it worth it? Yes. Besides, I like doing it. EDIT: I also installed a Fumoto Qwik Valve to make draining easier. I know it takes a bit longer as the oil flow is constrained, but that just leaves time to clean the air filter.

I just use my regular Toro leaf blower after I hand wash. Then I towel dry Never had a problem.

That's the problem I had with a 20" Goodyear Eagle just a few weeks ago. Took a wood screw on what I thought was the tread on the left rear. TPS monitor came on. The manager at the tire store said that it penetrated enough of the sidewall that they would not repair it. Had to buy a new P245/50r/20 Goodyear Eagle RSA. Now, he could have been BS'ing me to sell just to sell a tire but I have been going to that same shop for many years and trust them, and he said pretty much what Enigma said.... that unless its dead center in the tread, almost any puncture will damage the sidewall making the tire irrepairable.

I had Michelin LTX's on my previous Explorer. Fantastic tire. Good traction on dry and wet. We don't get a lot of snow here in DFW (only a few days a season) but great traction on ice. Also, they wear evenly and have xlnt tread life. Be aware that even though the tire is labeled 'LTX' it is not a light truck tire. The name may contain 'LT' but it is a 'P' passenger rated tire.

Lots of people think that cold can kill a battery, and it can. But heat can be as damaging, or worse. Most folks get about 3-4 years on a battery here in DFW. Really cold nights in winter (well, relatively cold - 19 F tonight and high of 30 F tomorrow) and can get up to 105 F during the summer. In 2011 we had 70 straight days over 100 F. Batteries dying all over the place. Best to get a Category or two above the OEM spec.

...and trust me brother, gear lube STINKS!

Greg Lake died on Wednesday last week (Pearl Harbor Day) and so pulled out my "Trilogy" album - vinyl, of course. Put it on and smoked one of my favorite Connecticut Churchill's. Oooh, what a lucky man I was.

I did that to my previous Explorer 4x XLT. Put in a new sub, stuffed the enclosure with polyfill, and lined the inside of the rear quarter panel with DynaMat. Really does make a difference. If I ever swap out the sub on the Edge, I'll do the same thing.

Weathertech or Husky Liner seem to be the most popular choice. I've had both and both are great quality and fit perfectly.

That does seem like a lot of miles - about 22k a year. Did the previous owner keep good maintenance records? Any major damage or accidents? And major problems in the past 3 years? I think you would want to know those things upfront before making a decision. If there has been continuing/ongoing maintenance issues every few months, you might be looking at a vehicle that you can't keep up with maintenance wise. I put 213k on my '98 SOHC 4x4 Explorer and kept it meticulously maintained, but it got to the point that every few months something else was going wrong and I'd be out a few hundred $$$. So now I'm in an '11 Edge Limited and couldn't be happier. And although mine is a AWD, I probably would not look at an AWD with those kinds of miles. To risky IMHO. I plan to regularly change the PTU lube but can you be sure it was regularly changed in the one you're looking at (if it is an AWD)? Also, buying from a close friend can be a good thing or a bad thing. If the deal or vehicle goes south, is it worth jeopardizing a friendship over? Of course, this is your decision but I thought I'd just mention it. I'll butt out now.