1004ron

I have - Lift one side and place the jack stands, then left the other side and place jack stands - leave the jack it place after lifting the second side for back-up. First tire rotations done at dealership they chipped the rims around the lug nuts using high speed spins off with impact wrench, and since then I've done the tire rotations on the four jack stands. I also do it when replacing brake fluid.

When I purchased my 2017 Sport new I bought the extended warranty (100,000 or 84 months) for $1,950 and it expires in about 200 miles - never claimed on it. Mine is labeled "National Vehicle Service Contract" appears to be a Ford product. I've been receiving mail reminding me that its about to expire with links to renew, but no price mentioned - I've decided not to renew and continue with my maintenance regime.

What are you using to read codes? Check the charging voltage shortly after a start and it should be +- 14.2v Check for parasitic drain.

It sure sounds like the shop you've been using is incompetent, and agree a visit to a dealership is likely what's needed now. Who do you owe money to for the two alternators?

Thanks for that omar302 I would be concerned for the front differential and would limit the distance as best possible using the smaller diameter spare on the front, and the same goes for the rear. I can see the reason to disable the AWD because the wheel speed sensors would make it appear that one wheel is slipping, but my concern is the two differentials whenever there's an odd sized wheel used.

Agree with @Cerberus LiquiMoly is a top quality oil, but prices in the US are too high and there's other good quality alternatives available in NA at reasonable prices. https://www.amazon.com/stores/LIQUIMOLY/page/1D6CB30F-A710-407D-A68A-03F6F906593B?ref_=ast_bln

Getting the steering buttons interface working isn't necessarily going to help with the mic.

One of the downsides buying too cheap. Crutchfield prices are very competitive and tech support cannot be beat. You will probably need an adapter like the ones in the below link, but which ones will depend on your vehicle model and the 3rd party head unit. https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/steering_wheel_control_adapter.html https://www.crutchfield.com/g_751/Factory-System-Adapters.html

If yours came with HID I would stick with that. The problem I see using LED's in housings that weren't designed for them results in poorly focused beams that blind the oncoming traffic.

Yes.

Haven't dealt with this before, but suspect its the sensor behind the bumper - if its clean then try disconnecting is and see it the behavior stops.

I use the OBDLink MX+ with Forscan.

The symptoms you describe point to a problem with the alternator and/or battery, so I'll ask how you went about testing both.

Do a search for converting to SYNC 3 It requires new hardware and is fairly pricy. You could also look on Critchfield for 3rd party systems.

The only advice I can offer is to find a reputable real mechanic - not easy to diagnose here based on that description.

It does appear so. I google search for reviews indicates that many are happy with the RXP. For continuity threads were merged.

I just checked my JLT/J&L catch can and it was 3/4 full of a condensate oil mix. Mine is about 6" higher than the PCV. If yours isn't collecting anything, particularly in winter, then contact the supplier for answers, or you could contact J&L to see if they have something for your model. https://sbfilters.com/collections/oil-separators I see the install on the 2.0L is a little more work - need to pull the intake manifold back.

This is likely the same issue with the radiator cooling fans and their control module i.e. non-OEM replacements don't work. If you've had the master cylinder off then you'll need equipment to perform the ABS bleed procedure.

My J&L CC is about the same height as the PCV valve on my 2.7L and works as @handfiler mentioned above. I would not mount the CC higher than the PCV - gravity would be working against it. Edit: or the CC higher than the PCV would result in nothing getting up to it or past it, but if that theory is correct the how is the oil getting to the areas you've reported.

Sounds like you're throwing parts at it without any diagnostics, which most often works out a whole lot more costly - if you don't have the diagnostic equipment and skills it might be best to take it to a reputable service shop.