1004ron

Thanks - Much the same results as Google - was hoping for something members could personally confirm .

My wife used my car the other day and remarked about the sound which prompted me to give more thought to changing the rear CV Axles, but I'm not 100% sure that's the source of the noise. It's a faint gear whine just like the front CV axles caused, just no where near as loud - its there all the time but just a little more pronounced when power is being sent to the rear. I'm looking at the below parts, which wouldn't be too bad if it ended up not being the source of the wine - if its not the rear CV Axles I'll be leaving it like it is until I sell the car. Anyone know of good YouTube videos for rear CV Axle replacement?

This is one of the modern "gimmicks" that I'm glad to have on my three vehicles. My Edge gave me an alert while I was on the I-71 and constantly displayed the current pressure as it decayed which allowed me to get off the interstate to install the emergency spare. My BMW K1600 motorcycle also alerted me when I had a slow puncture before it became an instability risk. Just last month my wife's BMW X5 alerted her to a slow puncture - allowed her to make it home for me to repair it.

I bought four off eBay and paid Big O Tires $20 a wheel to pop the bead on one side and install the four new sensors. Big O also did the learn procedure although I have the equipment to do that and this. Total cost for all four wheels $110 315MHZ for 2015-2020 Ford Lincoln 1.0L-5.0L 4PC TPMS Tire Pressure Sensor

Being a 2018 it past due for new TPMS sensors. You could have a place like AutZone scan it for codes and that would confirm the issue.

What are you using to read codes? What spark plugs are you using and where do you purchase them from?

Welcome @StahlMaster Looks like you got yourself a great low mileage SEL. How about a few photos?

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See @omar302 response - BTW when I was looking for the door code my local dealership informed me that it was a lengthy process for them to contact Ford Corp with my proof of ownership.

Is that in addition to your 2011?

Is that VIN for the vehicle in your signature? 2024 Ford Edge VIN 2FMPK4K96RBA03469 from USA | Auction Dec 25, 2025 Got to wonder who would put that ugly keypad on a 2019 or 2024 model that came with the LED type seen in the below YouTube video.

Share what you researched and post a photo of what you're visually seeing.

Welcome. I suggest scanning for stored fault codes using Forscan or some places like AutoZone can do it free of charge, although Forscan is the more reliable option. Being a 2020 model do you know if the compressor has a clutch or is it the variable displacement type compressor?

Here's one that meets your description: MEVOTECH CTXMS401247 TTX; Complete Arm w/ Ball Joint More Information for MEVOTECH CTXMS401247 2019 FORD EDGE 2.7L V6 Turbocharged Control Arm | RockAuto

@nicole1985 it sounds like a problem with the Air Distribution Door Actuator. The parts aren't expensive but need fair DIY skills - I estimate a shop would charge around $300 for parts and labour.

I can't be sure that its the same as my 2.7L but I recently replaced both front CV axles and didn't lose any fluid.

If his sig is still accurate it's a 2019 Edge ST

You guys had me go back and check my window sticker which confirms my assumptions are wrong regarding the 21" wheels being standard for the Sport and ST.

After trying a couple of other brands I'm now back on the 21-inch Pirelli Pzeros and will be sticking with them for all round performance and mileage . I'm surprised, I thought all Sport and ST's standard equipment was 21".

A photo from the front in the dark would be good.

@WillM any codes?

+1 on @Samurai Edge comment. Another thing to consider is the shoddy job the previous owner did could be rusting beneath the poorly applied Bondo - this is most likely the reason for the "+ is for "unforeseen difficulties"".

As you've already deduced, it's not a mere dent removal needed - it will need all the badly applied Bondo ground out, prepped, primed and painted.

I'm also not into the Frankenstein idea - I went with like for like from Centric just because of the higher carbon content.

When my 2017 Sport developed a vibration when starting to brake at speeds around 60 to 80 mph. I suspected warped front rotors and the dial gauge confirmed runout was > 2 thou - no deposit buildup. Tried drilled and slotted rotors and then settled on the Centric High Carbon plain rotors and they're still doing fine after many thousand miles. The brake performance is superb and see no point in upgrades, other than things like Akebono low/zero dust pads.