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Welcome. Do you have any preferences in mind, ... are you looking for performance improvement, looks, or good reliability and service with low dust? After trying two sets of drilled and slotted I'm very happy with the solid CENTRIC 12561118 High Carbon Alloy rotors and AKEBONO ACT1818 ProACT Ceramic bought on RockAuto.com No vibration or noise under braking at any speed, and good feel with low dust from the Akebono pads.

This is what I use for extracting the RDU oil. I made the shepherds hook/candy cane with a wire coat hanger inside some silicone tubing, used with my BMW oil extractor.

There isn't one on my 2017 and don't expect one on the 2018.

None of those codes or the engine temperature sensor would prevent the engine start. Puzzled why the Ford Dealership couldn't diagnose the issue. What did they report following their diagnosis? - did they confirm that the codes were unrelated to the no-start issue? If the no-start is repeatable with regards the 45 minute wait then you need to make them aware of that and they can diagnose accordingly - could be fuel rail pressure bleeding off. Another thing, is there any other info you haven't disclosed, such as the Ford Dealership doing diagnostics?

Welcome. From your description I don't believe its the belt. More likely an exhaust gasket leaking. Possible the CAT's getting fouled causing higher pressure upstream.

There isn't an easy way to check for potential damage caused by the coolant in the oil other than a teardown inspection of the bearings. I don't think that the timing chain is sensitive to a short run with the coolant unless the tensioner was impacted. Probably best to take a chance and replace the coolant pump and hope for the best. Did you hear or feel anything with the engine running in this condition?

Very good video and would be my preferred method when or if I decide its needed on my cars. One thing that I believe could be contributing to the fouling of the intake valves is the Exhaust Gas Recirculation function that the Variable Valve Timing now performs, and that would apply to GDI and MPI. After resisting the need for OCC (my negative opinion can be found in post a few years ago) I'm now 100% onboard with the need for them - any reduction in the oil contact with the inlet valves and in the combustion chamber is an advantage. I have 111K miles on my Sport and when I changed the spark plugs at 106K miles I inspected the intake valves and top of the pistons and they were remarkably clean, so not expecting to do this cleaning for quite some time - this may be due to the OCC, only using Costco Top Tier Gas and very gentle driving style.

New YT video posted on previous page.

See comment on the quality of the replacement vs the original in the thread linked above.

Need the complete 3rd brake light - I recommend the Dorman brand. Give the forum search feature a try.

Judging from the sparse reporting on this forum I'm leaning towards oil consumption not being a systemic issue with the 2.7TT. The turbos failing and causing oil consumption could happen on any of the Ecoboost models or any manufacturer's turbos.

I do spark plugs around the same mileage. The Aux belt, tensioner and idler I did at around 100K miles - based on the condition of mine that that mileage I'd say you're safe to go 150K miles, but recommend the kit, belt tensioner and idler. Yes, on this engine the water pump is critical.

I wouldn't trust a Lemon Law lawyers website to be an accurate reference.

After trying two sets of drilled and slotted I went back to solid rotors (high carbon) and they're still good after many thousands of miles.

Yes, and if it ran like that for a few miles the bearings will be trashed.

The $9 experiment was a failure. Reinstalled the Dorman one and a trip to work without codes.

@Shanejohn13 @Haz posted instructions on the second page in the link I attached - they're not as clear as the other Ford instructions Haz posts. I haven't pulled mine off yet to replace the one white clip, so will look for tips from you on how to detach and re-install.

Welcome. How sure are you that those clips will cure your issue? - where is the noise actually coming from? The clips linked above in this thread are for the plastic trim piece just behind the top edge of the windshield - since a poor job of the windshield replacement I've been driving with one of these out and don't notice any issues. You can see the location these clips are used in the below thread.

Thanks, At first Forscan only displayed only the PCM module, so time to Google and first suggestion was to downgrade to an older version which didn't work, then deleted my vehicles profile and then it took longer to load up but all modules displayed. Change made and will try it for a couple of days to see if I prefer it.

@omar302 Please tell us how to enable this using Forscan - I'm thinking of tinkering with this.

Welcome @OhhBnertt Yes, it does sound like the battery is at its end of life, but before going out and buying a replacement do a load test on the battery and scan for codes - both those can be done at your local AutoZone or that type of store. If you go with a different spec battery then the vehicle needs to be coded to match, and whenever the battery is replaced the Battery Condition Monitor needs to be reset.

Not sure if you read the post above yours? It's still the 1st quarter of 2025.

Welcome. Yes you can - I used a Dorman brand which appeared to be better constructed than the original.

Lucky in regards to not having the atmospheric/climatic conditions that would result in condensate inside the lamp assembly. My 2017 has also had condensate form a couple of times - I've not done anything to avoid it but haven't had a recurrence so not too bothered by it.

Welcome. What have you tried? What's the mileage? What oil change interval? What oil and oil filter used, and who does the oil changes?