1004ron

35 minutes ago, Chazberry said:

 

Not a lot of track record yet - what, 3 years?

Introduced with the 2015 Ford F-150 is a twin-turbo 2.7 L V6 EcoBoost engine. 

Correct, around 3 to 4 years, but still long enough to know if there's any major systemic issues.

https://www.wardsauto.com/engines/2018-winner-ford-f-150-27l-ecoboost-twin-turbo-v-6

https://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2016/04/best-ford-f-150-engine-smallest-one-can-buy/

Quote

I would still like to hear directly from K&N

Good idea, since its always the reputable products that are counterfeited. 

Counterfeit products have been  found on Amazon, but I doubt you'd see that in Walmart.

10 minutes ago, Chazberry said:

I dunno - I think these car companies are pushing the envelope with the plastic.  I had a car with a plastic valve cover that turned out to be a disaster.

There's been a few reports here of the plastic pan seal leaking, but haven't seen any new reports lately.

No reports of problems with the plastic drain plug, nor the plastic camshaft covers.

21 minutes ago, jayray said:

Wife' 2010 edge has developed a oil leak , I crawled under it and exhaust is covered.. it appears to be coming from the back top of the engine near the passenger side firewall,,  Im thinking its the valve cover gasket ?   any ideas?   mechanic cant get to til next week,   is it to drive as long a i keep a eye on oil level til then?

Until you clean it and monitor it to see where the oil leak is originating,  its all guessing and speculation.

Is it an AWD - if so it could be the PTU.

15 hours ago, Chazberry said:

Geez - these Oil Filters are pretty pricey for a naked cartridge!

I don't think $8 is too pricey.

I've switched to the K&N at $11

Also,  I plan on replacing the drain plug every 4th or 5th oil change at $7

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL-2062-Regular-Oil-Filter/dp/B010QU0SPU/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_0_2/138-5233908-9525115?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B010QU0SPU&pd_rd_r=f5c12ae9-7787-4634-a334-61cb1d191114&pd_rd_w=KxesR&pd_rd_wg=K26h9&pf_rd_p=2f64e549-0497-4586-8c63-7905e90fd6a2&pf_rd_r=CPFZCPE900VRWQSJEV0X&psc=1&refRID=CPFZCPE900VRWQSJEV0X

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAXYY02/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JAU88JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Occasionally you may find used ones on eBay, but the local wreckers yard is normally your best bet, but not sure if that's the case in your location.

Don't know of any other online source for used parts like this.

K&N's are manufactured in a few locations in the world, and it could be that the one is from Korea and the other from Mexico.

The recent ones I bought for my 2.7L are made in Korea,  which would be my preference of all the locations.

I'd be OK with it if I could see that the anti-runback valve was silicone and the filter media appears to be the same material and number of pleats.

6 minutes ago, Nick Halstead said:

I think your missing the main emphasis, Why would you want to go to 3 different sites, create 3 different accounts to view information on the same vehicle when you could just go to the page you have been going to for years? Then your also limited to just that trim level topics, here..you have the whole generation to view for information that is going to be the same other than powertrain. It's like being a mailman at an apartment complex, why go door to door for mail, when you can just put the mailboxes in one location.

I think I  share your opinions - keep it to just this forum/site -  I wouldn't bother clicking on the alternate site, let alone create another ID and PW for it.

The owner of this site must own the other splinter sites seeing as the other sites were promoted here, and I suspect doing this is more to do with revenue generation than a harmonious group of auto enthusiasts. 

If a new forum/site has been created for the ST model, why bother to maintain a subsection for that model on this forum/site?

20 days since I last checked, and it must be the lower ambient that has increased the amount of separation, so much so that I don't think that it would make the 5K miles oil change interval.

1 hour ago, Mike K said:

I did pour some gas in the throttle body and it started I put new spark plugs in about a week before it stopped I changed oil every 5000 miles it has 167000 miles on it the only other thing I've did was replace the transfer case

1 hour ago, Mike K said:

Also I have a obd2 scanner and it didn't have any codes

A tip, when you come looking for advice at a place like this, take just a little time and effort to describe what you've already tried, and the results.

Always best to follow a diagnostic approach, which could have saved you the cost of a fuel pump and control module.

First thing to try is a squirt of starter fluid, and if it runs on that it's a fuel delivery problem, if not, then start looking at valve timing etc.

Check for error codes - Autozone will loan a code reader to you if you prefer not buying one.

What engine?

What's the mileage, and service record, oil change intervals, spark plugs, ............. the more pertinent information you provide, the more likely you'll receive meaningful suggestions.

14 minutes ago, jmr061 said:

I'm so sorry.  I was only responding about the TED being removed in the new design.  It's clear Ford has abandoned cooled seating.

I clicked new posts and only saw yours, not the previous comments about the latest Ford approach of doing away with the cooled feature.

Quite odd that they can get the seat bottoms to work well but not the backrests. 

34 minutes ago, jmr061 said:

The heated/ventilated seat system consists of the following components:

• Seat cushion heater mat (serviced by installing a new cushion foam)
• Seat backrest heater mat (serviced by installing a new backrest foam)
• Blower motor, located within each front seat cushion and backrest
• FCIM (includes climate controlled seat buttons)
• SCME, integral to the DSM
• Cushion and backrest vent bags (part of the cushion and backrest foam)
• Air duct (bellow)
• Cushion and backrest foam
• Cushion and backrest trim covers

We're talking cooled seats here.

I've got 35,400 miles on the clock and contemplating addressing the failure of the backrest cooling with Ford before the general warranty runs out at 36,000 miles, but if they don't have a real fix then I wont waste my time.

If I did take it in I'd have them address the rattle of the two under body covers which I temporarily fixed.

10 hours ago, quincy said:

Here you go!

 

Lou

 

https://www.consumerreports.org/car-recalls-defects/honda-recall-acura-honda-suvs-and-minivans-brake-issue/

 

 

ROFL

Digging deep and still no evidence of these "gassing" parts.

40 minutes ago, quincy said:

It is also very plausible that Ford is not aware of the condition that can occur....the off gassing of a coating on internal brake components. 

 

You reported that your vehicles brakes are now repaired - did that include the replacing these "gassing" parts with "non-gassing" parts?

Please post the details, part numbers and description of the non-gassing parts.

On 1/22/2019 at 3:36 PM, billfl said:

as is now apparent with the Takata fiasco, auto mfrs do not make all of their own parts. Many are outsourced and common across various platforms.

 

Heck, I had to replace a clutch master cylinder 4 times in a Honda Accord. No matter what "brand" was on the purchased part, it was sourced by the same Chinese manufacturuer and the same bolt sheared off of 3 replacement master cylinders thus causing a loss of all fluid and the clutch would not disengage. There are some junk parts out there and you might have had one which gave up the ghost. Then, stir in a newb tech who didn't properly bleed brakes and your story of woe grew. Any service writer who tells you that a spongey brake pedal is normal, needs to go back to a job asking ..."paper or plastic" ?

Many other members here repeatedly advised him to take the vehicle to different dealership because it was blatantly clear that they were incompetent, then after an uphill battle one of them at that dealership saw the light and realised what bleed procedure is required.

On 1/6/2019 at 1:19 PM, 1004ron said:

Come now, you made the claim, you back it up.

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1&q=loss+of+brakes+on+a+ford+edge

 

Point out which of the search results draws attention to "Seems there is an Issue with "coating on rear internal disc brake parts"".

 

 

34 minutes ago, quincy said:

Akirby,

 

Spend a few minutes on Google....search for 'sudden loss of brake pedal on Ford Edge'. 

 

 

Yawn,

You made the wild claim but cant post a single link to support it.

I did the first oil change myself at 3000 miles mainly to get it switched over to full synthetic early in its life.

I just bought Collinite 915 Marque D'Elegance Auto Wax and will report back in a few weeks.

I work at a power plant, and in certain climate conditions and the emission control equipment not working as it should, my Edge gets acid rain which has etched the clear-coat.

I might look at getting the hood wrapped because the etching is the worst on it.

What's odd is my black Harley paint hasn't suffered the same.

After viewing this video, I think I'll stick with more frequent waxing.

When my Sport was a few weeks old I saw the oil covering my pan, and reading the reports on here I was worried, but it turned out to be the oil solenoid near the main crank pulley - my pan has been bone dry since the solenoid was replaced.

1 hour ago, 14AWD3.5 said:

Hi,

 

ive had the troublesome TPU [PTU]oil changed twice now in 43K miles.  Both times at the same Ford dealer it was bought from.  Both times cost between $100-120 USD and of course used Ford fluid.

 

I havent had the RDU diff fluid changed, and am wondering what the concensus is for getting the RDU serviced when the vehicle is not facing “severe” usage. 

2014 AWD 3.5

 

Thanks

I believe the consensus on the RDU oil change can be found in the post directly above yours.

If this was a scheduled outage you'd expect that it would be announced and done mid week.